[Rajeevraj]

Originally Posted by cranky

^^There is a small possibility that your speakers are of 3ohm impedance, as is common with small all-in-one HT systems.

Such speakers are not advised to be coupled with receivers, which have a minimum impedance specification of 4 (very high-end AVR) to 6 ohms.

If they are higher than the AVR's minimum impedance, your assumptions about connecting them are correct.

Thanks for the input. I decided not to buy just a receiver and I bought the the Onkyo 3500 HT system. Seemed a good system for my budget. Expected to get it delivered today. They are offering a Philips Blu Ray player along with this. Price is Rs 30,000. Seemed a decent buy as the Philips player stand alone price is around 7K. I am also getting a decent exchange price for my Philips HT System.

[selfdrive]

I have a 42" Panasonic plasma telly with HDMI inputs, Tata sky HD and a normal DVD player. For HDMI, I plug my laptop to the telly.

For someone who knows little about home theatre systems or their budgets, any recommendations for a decent system? I am not too much into movies/ music/ gaming either but would like to have this for the occasional movie I watch.

I dont want to end up with a Bose system or an entry level one which I would want to change in a few months time. I expect to keep this system for a few years.

Also, any wireless speaker system recommendations would help further as I keep changing my mind about the furniture setup at home. budget depends on what the HT offers but would take 25K as an initial post

TIA

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by selfdrive

I dont want to end up with a Bose system or an entry level one which I would want to change in a few months time. I expect to keep this system for a few years.

Also, any wireless speaker system recommendations would help further as I keep changing my mind about the furniture setup at home. budget depends on what the HT offers but would take 25K as an initial post

TIA

You can't get any Bose home theatre for 25k. Your choices are only entry level. At or around your budget the Onkyo 3500 package, that the gentleman in the post before yours has bought, seems like a good option.

Violet makes a decent wireless speaker package, but thats about 60k, no HDMI and does not decode anything other than Dolby Digital. But then you should also have conveniently positioned free power outlets at all the 6 locations where the speakers are going.

[selfdrive]

Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble

You can't get any Bose home theatre for 25k. Your choices are only entry level. At or around your budget the Onkyo 3500 package, that the gentleman in the post before yours has bought, seems like a good option.

Oh, Violet s the name I had forgotten. Power points and their positioning is not really an issue for me. I may have to reconsider if I need an AVR set

I know I cannot get a Bose package at that price point; it is only to express that I dont want either extreme; something middle of the range would do. Not that I want a Bose in any case regardless of price, but thats more subjective and more importantly besides the point.

Will review the Onkyo 3500 package and return to this thread, maybe I should clarify that 25K is only an initial price point. I am sure I will be convinced to buy something thrice any budget I quote.

[Rajeevraj]

Originally Posted by selfdrive

Will review the Onkyo 3500 package and return to this thread, maybe I should clarify that 25K is only an initial price point. I am sure I will be convinced to buy something thrice any budget I quote.

I should be getting my 3500 system in a couple of days. Will share my thoughts on it once I have it set up.

My use case is somewhat similar to yours. Not too much DVD/Bluray movie viewing. I have an Airtel HD and my main use would be to get a good sound experience from the ever growing HD channel line up. From the reviews I read it seems to support everything in existence today and is also 3D ready. So should be good for a few years (I hope so ).

[97_Octane]

Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble

Since i'm sure the Samsung DVD player doesn't have an amplifier, I'm assuming that the speakers you are using are amplified. And the inputs to the speakers are by means of 6 independent decoded inputs. How will the 309 solve your problem? It does not have 5.1 pre-outs..

Mistake on my part. The Artis is connected to a Dapic 5.1 DVD Player. (Don't know why I bought this. Was a long time back though.) I will be disconnnecting the Dapic. I don't have an amplifier. Shouldn't an amplifier be capable of having multiple inputs and one audio out and one video out?
In my case, inputs- Tata Sky+ HD through HDMI, Blu-ray through HDMI and outputs- analog out to the artis and an HDMI out to the LCD?

What about the Harman Kardon AVR 134?

http://www.indiajbl.com/HomeAudioDesc.aspx?ID=81

I'm still a noob at this. So pardon me if my questions are silly.

Thanks in advance!

[nitinralli]

Originally Posted by sam003

Looking for good home theater in 1L budget max. i have 52 in LED with me. So plz suggest for good surround sound system. If can see something around in Delhi NCR then nothing like that.

Sam, with this kinda budget you can get real good set of speakers. Since you are in Delhi, go to "Bass n Treble" in Dawarka. The contact there is Denny (9999016124). He deals with lot of good stuff and best part is, you can audition all speakers with different amps etc in his home theater room. I am too looking to buy a new home theater and planning to go to him real soon.

[mpksuhas]

Guys need help finding out how much will be AMP rating of a home theater system (thinking of Onkoyo S3500). Needed it for finalizing on a voltage stablizer. I have a LED TV with power rating of 150 W, so that means its around 0.68 Amps. The stablizer I have shortlisted supports 3 Amps. So needed to check if home theater system uses more than that.

[NetfreakBombay]

Originally Posted by mpksuhas

Guys need help finding out how much will be AMP rating of a home theater system (thinking of Onkoyo S3500). Needed it for finalizing on a voltage stablizer.

Stabilizer would be rated in terms of VA (Volt*Ampere) and AMP would be rated in Wattage.

For LED TV + S3500, stabilizer should be capable of 1500 VA.

Peak power consumption of S3500 would be around 400W. Adding TV and possibly Blu Ray player etc would take this wattage to around 800 W.

1500 VA stabilizer would be able to supply this comfortably, 1500 VA would be approx 1150 W (with load factor of 0.75).

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by mpksuhas

... Needed it for finalizing on a voltage stablizer. ...

I haven't used a stabilizer in Bangalore in the last 25 years for *any* equipment. Why would you want one?

What one needs is a sacrificial 'spike / overvoltage buster' - for those once-in-a-bluemoon occasions that send ~415V or more into your line. Would save the power supplies. Otherwise, low voltage ('single phase') won't hurt the power supplies.

[mpksuhas]

Originally Posted by NetfreakBombay

Stabilizer would be rated in terms of VA (Volt*Ampere) and AMP would be rated in Wattage.
For LED TV + S3500, stabilizer should be capable of 1500 VA.
Peak power consumption of S3500 would be around 400W. Adding TV and possibly Blu Ray player etc would take this wattage to around 800 W.
1500 VA stabilizer would be able to supply this comfortably, 1500 VA would be approx 1150 W (with load factor of 0.75).

Thanks for explaining. However I had downloaded V-Guard stabilizer specs and it was only mentioning Capacity in Amps. They had mentioned the capacity as 3 Amps. They didnt mention any VA rating. Hence as per your post S3500 power consumption of say around 400 W + TV power of 150 W = 650 W means it is around 3 Amps in ideal condition (220 V). Hence was thinking if its needed to go for a stabilizer of higher rating. Or opt for a spike as suggested by DerAlte in post below.

Originally Posted by DerAlte

What one needs is a sacrificial 'spike / overvoltage buster' - for those once-in-a-bluemoon occasions that send ~415V or more into your line. Would save the power supplies.

DerAlte: Yes, my idea was also the same. However I was not able to find any reliable spike buster in market on a quick search. On enquiring I was either pointed towards the basic spike buster (extention box with fuse). However I wanted to avoid something with fuse since finding a replacement for it with a good quality fuse in case of blow off will be tough.

[jkdas]

Originally Posted by mpksuhas

DerAlte: Yes, my idea was also the same. However I was not able to find any reliable spike buster in market on a quick search. On enquiring I was either pointed towards the basic spike buster (extention box with fuse). However I wanted to avoid something with fuse since finding a replacement for it with a good quality fuse in case of blow off will be tough.

I dont think Kerala has a good power line. At some areas there still is voltage issue for example. Bangalore also gets better transmission lines/tech .

Try Belkin, iirc, some versions of Belkin comes with insurance.

[NetfreakBombay]

Originally Posted by mpksuhas

650 W means it is around 3 Amps in ideal condition (220 V). Hence was thinking if its needed to go for a stabilizer of higher rating. Or opt for a spike as suggested by DerAlte in post below.

Yes you should use a spike guard. Belkin's spike guard should cost around 2,000 Rs. It includes warranty for TV/Music system for damage due to spikes that spike busters could not prevent.

In case, you do buy a stabilizer you need at least 1 KVA to provide 850 Watts (due to AC). You should get a 1.5 KVA to account for drop in power factor.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by mpksuhas

... DerAlte: Yes, my idea was also the same. However I was not able to find any reliable spike buster in market on a quick search. On enquiring I was either pointed towards the basic spike buster (extention box with fuse). However I wanted to avoid something with fuse since finding a replacement for it with a good quality fuse in case of blow off will be tough.

Think about this: how many times have you ever replaced a fuse *anywhere* so far? The fuse is overcurrent protection (you need that, since overcurrent is from *your* equipment side). The MOV in the spike buster protects against overvoltage from outside. You need both.

[Rajeevraj]

As mentioned in my previous posts, I got the Onkyo HT 3500. I got it installed and all looks good except for one major problem. The receiver is not sending output to the sub woofer. The sub itself is working fine (tested with another system). Have tried all different options in the settings, even tried a factory reset. No luck. The Onkyo technician who came to install also tried everything and could not get it to work. He eventually said it could be an issue with the receiver itself and a senior technician would come and later they called and asked me if I could bring it to their service center. As of now I have refused and told that I need it replaced which they have agreed to do, but they do not have stock as of now. So while I am waiting for that, I thought I'll put in a note here to see if this actually could be some advanced setting issues and whether experts here have any ideas/solutions.

Note: Speakers are all connected correctly. All standard settings are set correctly