[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by Tanveer02

In this pic the car looks absolutely smashing. The lights go so well with the body and design. Adds a cool character to an already beautiful car.
Cheers to our beloved Golden Goose

Thanks. The parking lights appear a bit too bright in the pics, but in person, they look quite nice and well balanced.

Originally Posted by chiranjitp

The new white LEDs are just wow, they do improve the looks (during night time) of your car quite significantly. The white light looks so much cooler than the normal yellow colored light. But the one thing that bothers me about the white lights is that, they aren't very effective in illuminating the road when there is a light from the opposite side. How do these LED's fare in such a scenario?

I did face such situations yesterday during my 2 hour drive yesterday:

1. If the road is undivided and nothing is in front of you, with an oncoming vehicle with high beams, there is a significant drop in light. But even a small obstacle comes during that time, say a brick or a boulder, its illuminated much much better than normal halogens. Infact the LEDs are much better in spotting obstacles.

2. I had some concerns about its effect in rains. Thankfully, our city got a heavy shower at 3AM in the morning, and I didn't miss this opportunity to check out the LEDs. Although they aren't as good as say 100/90 halogens, they are much better than the regular white bulbs. I have wasted my money on Philips Diamond Vision too, hence I do have a good benchmark. Although they don't pierce during rains as well as the yellow lamps, the ability to spot obstacles remain as it is. You will know where you are going.

I will need to set the focus a bit, currently it's a bit too low.

BTW, I am eagerly waiting to see the outcome of the rear wiper & fog light project.

The foglight bezel got cleared by Kolkata customs on 26th, and should reach me anytime. The rear wiper will be complete by this weekend.

Regards,
Shashi

[R2D2]

@leoshashi, great mod. But be sure to adjust the headlamp aim in such a way to minimise or eliminate dazzling oncoming traffic. LEDs are blindingly bright and can easily disorient a driver.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by R2D2

@leoshashi, great mod. But be sure to adjust the headlamp aim in such a way to minimise or eliminate dazzling oncoming traffic. LEDs are blindingly bright and can easily disorient a driver.

Thanks Sir.

I agree. The LEDs are very bright. The current adjustment is such that Low beam is sufficient for city and highways, whereas the High is exclusively for idiots. Even the bus drivers perched high up in the air cannot escape it's throw.

In low beam, it won't blind anyone, not even a fellow 800 owner. It's that well focussed.

Regards,
Shashi

[(Alok)]

Shashi,
How do you bleed/ replace brake fluid? Is there any special tool from MSIL for this work?

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by (Alok)

Shashi,
How do you bleed/ replace brake fluid? Is there any special tool from MSIL for this work?

Honestly, I am yet to do any major brake related DIY entirely myself, although it's in my wishlist. All brake flush and bleeding jobs are done by my mechanic at MASS.

However, if you are interested, you may look at these videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wwq1Vlk4Wg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc

Regards,
Shashi

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Waiting for the bezel

The Bezel arrives from the Land of the Rising Sun in 15 days. While I can now install the rear bumper with fog lamp, I have decided to wait for the LED P21Ws which are in transit from Powerbulbs.com. No point installing everything and then dismantling again after a week or so for the LEDs.

No Customs charged



The Bezel. Its costlier than the entire fog setup combined(bumper, fog lamp, wiring harness etc)





Since this Fog Light bracket is also a rare commodity, and will always be in contact of mud and water(located just behind the rear wheel), I decided to give it an extra layer of protection



Installed:





Looks beautiful:





Regards,
Shashi

[Leoshashi]

First breakdown, thanks to Indian fuel: On 7th May morning, when starting the car, I noticed that the fuel pump didn't prime normally. I primed again and it primed fine. I then drove for around 40kms without any issues. While parking in a mall, the car died suddenly. Thankfully I could push it back and park properly.

I always keep spare relays in my car, so I could easily figure out it wasn't the relay. Weirdly, the car started as if nothing had happened. I had a brief chat with my SA, and I decided to drive straight to the MASS which was approximately 10kms away.

Again it was behaving normally, and reached workshop. But died immediately afterwards, and didn't come to life. It was as if the car was waiting to reach workshop somehow.

I was anyways relaxed as I knew my car was in safe hands. My SA, Dhiraj began the diagnostics immediately, and it was confirmed, there was a drop in fuel pressure.



The tank was lowered, probably for the first time in its life.



A minor leak was observed.



The suction filter was badly choked with deposits, which burnt the solenoid.



Condition of the internals of the fuel tank, initially we thought it was rust. But later it was revealed, it's sedimentation. All 18 years of collection



Notice the date on the fuel hose:



Fuel which came out



We decided to clean the tank comprehensively and then check for any rusting. I was cleaned with diesel, soap and what not. What helped was the pressurised jet.





Even after 5th round of washing, the dirt was still coming







A sample of the fuel which came out:







I decided to change the fuel filter too.



Since the tank was washed, I wanted it to be completely dry before pouring any fuel . Thanks to the summers, it became bone dry within an hour. We discarded the old fuel(all 21L of it ) and I had become so paranoid, that I told them to filter the new fuel before pouring that in.

The car was then left to idle for around half an hour, and then driven for some 10kms to check for any leaks or abnormality. I thought the episode had come to an end, but I was wrong.

Yesterday I had to leave a bit early for work, and just 100m away from my house, the car broke down properly. No cranking helped. I checked the fuel delivery line, absolutely no pressure inside. I called my trusted mechanic Arjun and SA Dhiraj. Despite calling them at 6.30AM in the morning, Arjun reached the spot within 10minutes. Hats off.



All he did was check the connectors, but the car didn't start. Then he went under the car, tapped the fuel tank couple of times, rocked the car and voila, she started.





I couldn't understand what the issue was, yet I left for office. I drove her for around 50kms, without any issue. She was parked for 8 hours at office, yet didn't show any starting issue. While coming back, left her at the MASS, and they'll be testing it for first start behaviour today. Hope the issue is recognised. Any pointer what needs to be checked?? Things changed: Fuel Filter, Suction filter, Pump Solenoid Assembly.

Regards,
Shashi

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Any pointer what needs to be checked?? Things changed: Fuel Filter, Suction filter, Pump Solenoid Assembly.

@leoshashi, check the fuel pump for proper throughput and all its electrical connectors for corrosion.

In-tank fuel pumps are generally sealed units and a drop in performance necessitates replacement. Decades of pumping that sediment infested fuel (the fuel filter can only do so much) may have partially affected or even worn out internal impeller parts.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by R2D2

@leoshashi, check the fuel pump for proper throughput and all its electrical connectors for corrosion.

In-tank fuel pumps are generally sealed units and a drop in performance necessitates replacement. Decades of pumping that sediment infested fuel (the fuel filter can only do so much) may have partially affected or even worn out internal impeller parts.

Thanks a lot for your help. This was the part which was changed yesterday. It's billed to me as Pump Assembly, Fuel.



Since we had changed the fuel pump, we didn't bother checking the fuel pressure again. And that turned out to be a blunder.

The new pump which was changed yesterday was faulty right out of the box, which was confirmed by the unusually high priming noise and low fuel pressure. Today, we changed it again, checked the fuel pressure and everything was found OK. Let's hope this solves the issue.



Cleaned the terminals using MGPs WD40 equivalent:



Regards,
Shashi

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Thanks a lot for your help. This was the part which was changed yesterday. It's billed to me as Pump Assembly, Fuel.

Kudos to that pump for having lasted 18 years. It may have spent much of that time operating in the muck I saw drained from the tank.

Lesson learnt? Check fuel filter at manufacturer recommended interval and clean tank every 5 years or even sooner if possible.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Lesson learnt? Check fuel filter at manufacturer recommended interval and clean tank every 5 years or even sooner if possible.

Definitely a lesson learnt. The fuel filter was changed proactively, much earlier than the manufacturer recommended interval. The manual says nothing about the tank cleaning or the bag like suction filter. That's why it was conveniently forgotten. This is the first time in 18 plus years that the tank left the body.

Not anymore. I'll get it cleaned every 5 years or so. Manufacturer recommended stuff can fail in Indian conditions. They should introduce a filter before the tank to collect these crap.

Another point which I can think of, I always used to refuel much earlier than the 25% mark(because the fuel is the lubricant for the pump). But last time, fuel level had dropped to a level too less(it took 24L, full tank capacity is 28L), and may be the refuel agitated the settled sediments, causing the pump to fail.

Regards,
Shashi

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

The manual says nothing about the tank cleaning or the bag like suction filter. That's why it was conveniently forgotten. This is the first time in 18 plus years that the tank left the body.

Cleaning the fuel tank is something I learnt early on in my younger (read biker) days. Back then sediments from underground petrol tanks at the pumps would accumulate over a period of time. Worst of all? Water, yep water, would collect and begin to rust the insides of the tank. You can see the condensation in one of your photos of the bottom of the PET bottle.

That's why I refuel the car using the full tank to full tank method. The lesser the space for air and moisture the better it is.

They should introduce a filter before the tank to collect these crap.

If the strainer were to be placed in the fuel inlet pipe it would be difficult to remove and clean or replace. And a blocked filter would cause petrol to back flow out of the filler creating a fire and environmental hazard not to mention wasting money. However, one could improvise. Use a funnel and a piece of relatively fine cloth to filter the muck. I'd advise this if you're fuelling up at unknown places on the highway.

Another point which I can think of, I always used to refuel much earlier than the 25% mark(because the fuel is the lubricant for the pump). But last time, fuel level had dropped to a level too less(it took 24L, full tank capacity is 28L), and may be the refuel agitated the settled sediments, causing the pump to fail.

One shouldn't let it fall below 10-15% of total capacity because the pump should never run dry. However any sediments in the tank will be agitated due to movement of the car. But sediment and worse still water accumulation is a given and tank cleaning is a 'best practice' (if I may call it that) that I picked up in my younger days.

PS - another tip, patronise petrol pumps that have a stock high turnover. Some of them even clean the underground tanks at regular intervals which results in less varnish and hopefully less sediment.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Worst of all? Water, yep water, would collect and begin to rust the insides of the tank. You can see the condensation in one of your photos of the bottom of the PET bottle.

Thankfully there was absolutely no rust inside the tank. Thanks to my dad, fuel in any of our cars rarely fall below the 40% mark. His logic is, any car at home should always be in "emergency ready" condition. If any emergency happens, do you expect me to line up at a fuel station?? That's why I always refuel once level starts falling below the half mark.

Since you confirmed this, I can now relate stuff. My friends who always fill fuel worth 200-300 max, have to change their metal fuel tanks once in every 3-4 years due to rust.

That's why I refuel the car using the full tank to full tank method. The lesser the space for air and moisture the better it is.

However, one could improvise. Use a funnel and a piece of relatively fine cloth to filter the muck. I'd advise this if you're fuelling up at unknown places on the highway.

When I was small, I remember seeing this in practice.

PS - another tip, patronise petrol pumps that have a stock high turnover. Some of them even clean the underground tanks at regular intervals which results in less varnish and hopefully less sediment.

That's what I have been doing for all these years. But 18 years is a long time, and negligence for such an extended period took it's toll.

Nevertheless, a nice lesson for life.

Regards,
Shashi

[Leoshashi]

Glaco Windscreen treatment: Manufactured by a firm called Soft99 in Japan, this rain repellent has got rave reviews. I always wanted to test them, thankfully MSIL now has these as a part of it's MGA lineup and is priced genuinely.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYzFnjPQWXw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kqJ-_j6xXA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WP_vV6JG14

Step 1: Clean your windscreen to remove any dirt/debris. The windscreen should be absolutely dry.

Step 2: Apply Glaco Oil film remover. This step is recommended to spotlessly clean your windscreen. It very effortlessly removes hard water marks, stains etc. Let it dry, then wash it with a microfiber and running water. You'll see water now sticking to windscreen. It won't get repelled at all. This means the windshield is now ready to accept the Glaco Rain repellant.

Step 3: Once the windshield is dry, apply Glaco rain repellent. Make sure it's wiped off as soon as its applied and doesn't dry on the surface. I made this mistake and allowed it to dry. No amount of muscle power will help you out.

Wipe using clean microfiber till all smudges are gone.

I applied this on all glass, ORVMs and Front HL(glass lens). It's recommended not to use this on any other surface except glass.

Time for pics and video:





Oil Film remover applied



After oil film remover is washed off. Notice how water isn't getting repelled

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45SO3AM6AJs

Glaco rain repellent



Applied. This is where I made a mistake. Allowed it to dry. Don't do this. Wipe off instantly



Water beading

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMNHhpLnghQ

I'm extremely happy with the performance.

Some warnings:

1. Don't rub the oil film remover too hard, it has micro abrasives which may scratch.

2. Don't allow the water repellent to dry. Wipe it immediately.

3. The Rain repellent has a funny shape. Take care not to take it out in public.

Regards,
Shashi

PS: Need to clean the interiors now. They have become extremely dirty thanks to the two day stay at MASS.

[chiranjitp]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Glaco Windscreen treatment: Manufactured by a firm called Soft99 in Japan, this rain repellent has got rave reviews. I always wanted to test them, thankfully MSIL now has these as a part of it's MGA lineup and is priced genuinely.

First of all, thank you Leoshashi for the detailed description of the Glaco Windscreen treatment. I went through the 2 videos, it does seem like that these 2 products work brilliantly. What is the cost of these 2 products? I am interesting in trying these on my Zen, as I am not very satisfied with the way the wipers clean the windscreen.

It very effortlessly removes hard water marks, stains etc

We have a 2010 i10 in our family which has lots of hard water marks/stains on the windscreen. Could I use the Glaco Oil film remover to remove the hard water marks?