[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Do not use engine flush. IMO it does more harm than good and only useful only when there is a lot of sludge.

Off topic: While I completely agree on the engine oil flush part, I have a doubt regarding the radiator flush. Is it okay to use radiator flush, if I ensure that its completely out of the system before finally pouring the antifreeze?? Or does it also corrode the seals etc??

Regards,
Shashi

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Off topic: While I completely agree on the engine oil flush part, I have a doubt regarding the radiator flush. Is it okay to use radiator flush, if I ensure that its completely out of the system before finally pouring the antifreeze?? Or does it also corrode the seals etc??

Regards,
Shashi

Bhai, to be perfectly honest I have never used any radiator flush either. And I am wary of pouring "cleansing" chemicals into a closed circuit system.

There are a few things I stick to & keep my car's cooling system in good ticking order:

a) Ensure pump/serpentine belt is in tip top condition and not frayed or damaged
b) Always use OEM coolant and change it BEFORE manufacturer recommended intervals. I change the coolant every 3-4 years if premixed and 2 years if it's concentrate + tap water
c) Never top off the system with tap water especially bore(well) water, only pre-diluted coolant. In case of any emergency any filtered drinking water is good as it prevents engine failure but get the system drained and refilled with OEM premix coolant, at the earliest.
d) In case a premix is unavailable use coolant + genuine distilled water (not battery water) OR coolant + filtered drinking water.

All that said, I have seen some of my friends using radiator flush to treat choked and partially clogged systems without any problems. Question is, why let it get to that stage?

[Kestrel5915]

Originally Posted by revvenant

I want to change the engine oil for my New Figo from mineral oil (5W-30) to Ford specified Synthetic Oil. The mileage is about 23 K.

The problem I am facing is the car is under warranty and I can't get it serviced outside. The guys in FASS are very insistent about not performing an engine flush.

Is it OK to change to Synthetic oil directly from mineral oil without an engine flush? I had read some articles which state that the residues from mineral oils can react with the Synthetic oils and cause issues in the engine.

Has anybody changed to Synthetics directly from mineral oil (w/o flushing) ? Would like to hear their story.

FYI: The SA in FASS is very particular that no issues are expected as long as I adhere to the specified engine oil grade.

Theoretically and technically its impossible not to have detrimental effect on changing oil grade without a flush.

But the effect might usually be very small and unnoticeable for a long time so practically it can be tolerated.

If the oil change is being done in warranty then it's quite obvious why the SA doesn't want to do it.

If not under warranty then you can save some bucks by not doing it.

[revvenant]

Originally Posted by Kestrel5915

Theoretically and technically its impossible not to have detrimental effect on changing oil grade without a flush.

But the effect might usually be very small and unnoticeable for a long time so practically it can be tolerated.

If the oil change is being done in warranty then it's quite obvious why the SA doesn't want to do it.

If not under warranty then you can save some bucks by not doing it.

Hi, could you expand on what is the perceived detrimental effect you are talking about? I would like to be aware of any possible effects irrespective of how minor they are or remote the possibility of them happening.
To be clear, I have to pay the actual cost of the oil, whether synthetic or mineral (which is quite significantly cheaper).

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by revvenant

Hi, could you expand on what is the perceived detrimental effect you are talking about? I would like to be aware of any possible effects irrespective of how minor they are or remote the possibility of them happening.
.

The engine flush additive is hardly couple of hundred ml's. It just removes some minor sediments which might be inside the oil system and some from rings etc where oil might reach during running. Once you completely drain the old oil (with or without flush being done), the chances of old oil being in the system would be same same, irrespective of using flush. So it will really not matter if you use flush or not while shifting from mineral to synth under normal conditions with low mileage engine.

Having said that, there is no much harm also caused if you use flush, since the engine has done some 2x000 kms, using an engine flush would remove slightly stubborn sludge, and if the oil was changed regularly, chances are there wont be much for it to remove.

I had done a flush when i shifted from servo to mobil delvac mx on my jeep at about 27k kms, drained the old oil, allowed it to completely drain for about 15 mts then used compressed air through the filling cap, which brought out some more residual oil in the system. While refilling, i allowed oil to settle for 5 mts and did a good 5 mts idle to rule out any air locks due to compressed air.

Following a similar process should give you a clean oil change.

So don't worry too much, it is your call if you want to use flush or not. I have had decent effects by using flush every 25k kms. Generally the oil system remains clean and shows less blackening just after the oil change, hence sticking with this process.

[Kestrel5915]

Originally Posted by revvenant

Hi, could you expand on what is the perceived detrimental effect you are talking about? I would like to be aware of any possible effects irrespective of how minor they are or remote the possibility of them happening.
To be clear, I have to pay the actual cost of the oil, whether synthetic or mineral (which is quite significantly cheaper).

Effects can range from reduction in lubrication and cleaning performance of the oil to sludge formation, etc.
Sometimes the additives used can be conflicting causing deposits.

This depends heavily on the base of the oils in question.
For example olefin and ester synthetic bases can sometimes be mixed with mineral bases while alkylene glycol bases should not be mixed with minerals.

But because during the next oil change synthetic will be used again so it'll further reduce any possible bad effects by the natural flushing process inside the engine.

So practically people don't see much of the effect though it is theoretically there.

[khoj]

Black oil or White or alternate fuels, recommendation remains as is.

Originally Posted by revvenant

Thanks for the information, the piece of information I forgot to mention in my earlier post is that mine is a diesel.
Would you recommend the same (no flush) for a diesel engine?

[revvenant]

Thanks for all the advice guys, I am getting the vibe that the pain and risks associated with a flush far outweigh the perceived benefits and definitely not worth losing sleep over. I'll just switch to the synthetic oil.
At the very least my warranty remains intact.

[sgiitk]

Let me add an oddball query. How many of us expect to keep our cars for 100,000km plus? Any half decent oils should at leas give you that.

[revvenant]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

Let me add an oddball query. How many of us expect to keep our cars for 100,000km plus? Any half decent oils should at leas give you that.

It's not so much how long I intend to keep my car as how my car performs for as long as I keep her.
I am willing to believe that synthetic oil does provide better lubrication to the engine particularly under heavy urban traffic leading to .
I am of course ready to be proven wrong.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by revvenant

It's not so much how long I intend to keep my car as how my car performs for as long as I keep her

+1

My car doesn't see much running & is used mostly on highway runs, not in urban traffic. Either way using synthetic gives me that comfort feeling of using a lube that will protect the engine even in extreme urban or highway running conditions.

[YashD]

Folks! I drive a 2013 Toyota Corolla Altis 1.8 GL Petrol. It's due for an oil change, initially I was getting the TGMO (Toyota Genuine Motor Oil) but this time I want try something different.

The recommended grade in the manual is 5W30. What are the recommended brands available in that range?

Will it be alright to buy Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 instead?

Please help out as soon as possible.

Thank You!

[hserus]

5w40 isn't a substitute for 5w30. Plenty of brands available - Mobil 1 (which is lovely), Motul, Castrol Magnatec

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by YashD

The recommended grade in the manual is 5W30. What are the recommended brands available in that range? Will it be alright to buy Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 instead?

I think your car has the 2ZR-FE engine which requires a thinner oil than the previous generation 1ZZ-FE present in my car. I have been using Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 for about 8 years now and am more than satisfied.

Toyota's synthetic is also 5W-40 API SN/SM. If you are absolutely sure 5W-40 cannot be used (double check with the viscosity vs temperature chart in the manual) try Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 available on Amazon India.

Also, 5W-30 is now the new recommended viscosity for all old/new diesel/petrol engines.

[devarshi84]

Shell Helix Ultra, Veedol Syntron and Mobil1 0w-40 are near identical in their values. Mobil is the most expensive, Shell has easiest accessibility and Veedol is cheapest. Have run MObil1 and Shell Helix Ultra on the Lancer petrol (4g15) and Veedol Syntron on the Honda Jazz.

For a slightly thinner 40 grade, look at Petronas 0w-40.

For a Thick and better performing 5w-30 - liqui moly 5w-30. It is Mb and BMW certified so expect the operating viscosity to be marginally thicker than toyota certified oils. I am running 5w-30 on the Lancer petrol (4g15).

There are other better oils but I have given suggestion based on my experience with oils.