[SLK_2005]

Originally Posted by bdman

Hi..I realized after my 2nd service that the oil level on my 2016 Duke 390 cannot be checked as there is no oil visible in the sight glass. Cool, warmed up, 1 min cool down etc.

I brought this up with KTM dealer, and Area Service Manager and after discussions at their highest level KTM has now informed that they have decided to reduce replacement quantity of engine oil from 1.6L to 1.5L. And, as a result oil will not be visible in the sight glass since the level is now lower.

Is this reasoning accurate to date? If yes then KTM should tell their customers this before they start losing their sleep over this

[SLK_2005]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Technically, yes, the oil pressure warning should throw up, but theoretically it might or might not. Also, if you're still not sure, try doing a drain test, that's the best test to find out the actual engine oil currently sitting inside your engine.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

Update: visited the ASC today. The Service engineer said that in bikes using the 390 engine, only while filling the oil the level can be seen. Once the bike is started, the oil never returns back to same level as some of the oil stays above the sump. He also assured me that even if the oil is low by 100ml the error will show up. Having said that, This is a major design blunder and KTM has to acknowledge it and fix it

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by SLK_2005

Update: visited the ASC today. The Service engineer said that in bikes using the 390 engine, only while filling the oil the level can be seen. Once the bike is started, the oil never returns back to same level as some of the oil stays above the sump. He also assured me that even if the oil is low by 100ml the error will show up. Having said that, This is a major design blunder and KTM has to acknowledge it and fix it

This is the most bollocks explanation prescribed by the engineer.. Almost all ICE engined motorcycles will never show the oil level "when the engine is running" that's because the oil is constantly being circulated under pressure.

There's a protocol prescribed by a manufacturer how to check. When an engine cools down and the oil returns to sump, only then the correct oil reading is measured. If KTM doesn't want to show you the reading, they'd have used dipstick instead of sight glass. Even the manual mentions to observe oil reading between the upper and lower markings..

Remember this: You never check for oil reading on any internal combustion engine with the engine running. NEVER!

Only check when it's cooled and/or when the motor is mildly warm after a cool down.. I'd strongly recommend you to go through your owners manual once again.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

[SLK_2005]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Remember this: You never check for oil reading on any internal combustion engine with the engine running. NEVER!

Only check when it's cooled and/or when the motor is mildly warm after a cool down.. I'd strongly recommend you to go through your owners manual once again.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

I think you got me wrong. The oil was checked after cooling the engine completely and engine was off. What I meant was during the service, when oil is freshly filled it can be seen in the glass and that's how they measure it. When the engine is switched on for the first time after filling the oil, it can't be seen again in the glass even after cooling down. It's a design flaw

[saikishor]

How long does a 2021 BS6 Model's battery last? My bike rolled out of the showroom in 2021 June. My bike takes 5 cranks atleast everyday in the morning when i start it at 8:30. My mech is telling me that the battery needs to be changed and it may give up any time soon.

Suggestions and good battery options will be highly appreciated.

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by saikishor

How long does a 2021 BS6 Model's battery last? My bike rolled out of the showroom in 2021 June. My bike takes 5 cranks atleast everyday in the morning when i start it at 8:30. My mech is telling me that the battery needs to be changed and it may give up any time soon.

Suggestions and good battery options will be highly appreciated.

With most bikes having their HL on all the time, it take a toll on the battery. Expect a life of two to three years -- plus a few months, if you're lucky. Start off by inspecting your current battery with a "load test". A load test will immediately let one know if a battery is about to hit the roof soon. This test can be done for free at most battery shops and you can get Amaron, Exide or SF. My personal suggestion, SF or Amaron, you can't go wrong with both these brands.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

[kedar3223]

I had a query regarding the 3months/7500km service interval of Duke 250.

My running is around 1100km per month, with very less traffic. Given the running condition, is it absolutely necessary to stick to the 3 month schedule since I am covering just around 3.5k km? Can I safely go for 2 annual services at 6000km intervals, effectively halfing the annual maintenance cost?

Any reason for having such short schedule time wise whereas the number of km 7500km is much greater than other bikes having 5/6 months schedules at 5k/6k kms?

[Vignesh_N/A]

Originally Posted by kedar3223

I had a query regarding the 3months/7500km service interval of Duke 250.

My running is around 1100km per month, with very less traffic. Given the running condition, is it absolutely necessary to stick to the 3 month schedule since I am covering just around 3.5k km? Can I safely go for 2 annual services at 6000km intervals, effectively halfing the annual maintenance cost?

Any reason for having such short schedule time wise whereas the number of km 7500km is much greater than other bikes having 5/6 months schedules at 5k/6k kms?

Before changing, inspect the engine oil. I feel 3.5K might be a tad too early. After lot of trials, I now stick to oil change between 4500 & 5000 kms for my Duke 390. Its when the engine just starts to sound gruff. Plus my fuel filter and oil filter are almost done around the 4500 kms.

My running is 90% on highways.

[sac23]

Originally Posted by SLK_2005

This is a major design blunder and KTM has to acknowledge it and fix it

Every single 390 owner I have known, including early 2014, 2015, 2017 and 2018 have oil consumption regardless of how good they maintain them. The 390 engine itself is designed more like a race engine than a road engine. The advantage of this is the explosive performance but reliability takes a second seat here.
This can be seen in high performance cars as well. Manufacturers like the BMW says it's normal to consumer 1L ever 1200km in M engines.
99% of 390 engine seizure is caused by running low oil oil because the unsuspecting owner thinks it's ok when there is no oil seen through the glass window. In fact, the glass would be empty if you don't follow the right procedure while checking the level. You need to get the engine up to operating temperature, shut it off and wait for a minute before checking the oil while the bike is held upright.
Don't go by the word of KTM service people, their source of knowledge is "Trust me bro".
On my last oil change, I changed to Shell Advance Ultra 15W50. It has considerably lower oil consumption compared to the Motul 7100 10W50.

[SLK_2005]

Originally Posted by sac23

99% of 390 engine seizure is caused by running low oil oil because the unsuspecting owner thinks it's ok when there is no oil seen through the glass window. In fact, the glass would be empty if you don't follow the right procedure while checking the level. You need to get the engine up to operating temperature, shut it off and wait for a minute before checking the oil while the bike is held upright.
Don't go by the word of KTM service people, their source of knowledge is "Trust me bro".
On my last oil change, I changed to Shell Advance Ultra 15W50. It has considerably lower oil consumption compared to the Motul 7100 10W50.

No, I checked with other 390s in the same service centre and it turned out to be the same even after following the procedure. It turns out that all the 390s after 2017 facelift have the same issue.

[sac23]

Originally Posted by SLK_2005

No, I checked with other 390s in the same service centre and it turned out to be the same even after following the procedure. It turns out that all the 390s after 2017 facelift have the same issue.

Whatever works for you. I only wanted to share my collective knowledge from the past 9 years of ownership, working and riding 2014 RC390x2, 2015 D390, 2017 D390, 2018 RC390 (my bikes and those in my circle).

[ebonho]

Getting back to my 390 after nearly 6-7 years. Uncovered her for the first time and gave her a proper wash to get things moving.




















Prima facie, with the first clean (many more to go, much more to come) looks like the fork tubes and rear disc rotor might be unsalvageable. Tried scotchbrite and soap as well as wd40 on the rotor. The surface is pitted and scored, even as the surface rusting is rubbed off. Only on the outer side. The wheel facing side is pristine. May need moving on to sanding/polish, milling? I'm assuming braking itself will clean it further/completely (the black scoring/marks) ... or will it kill the pads, whatever is left of them?

Wondering if i could fill fuel n crank it, to take it to the Wagholi workshop (about 15-20k), or put her in a tempo instead. Sump sludge, sticky rings, fuel pump concerns .... ? The coolant is showing above the Min mark. Cannot see any oil in the glass window though. Will put in a new battery of course (Amaron).

Also, breaking the KTM indicator stalks is an expensive affair. Thecrear left one was always broken and taped up, and still holding. Today my gardener broke the front right one while washing the bike. Serves me right! Do guys here know of cheaper alternatives that work well? I see many aftermarket ones on Amazon for the Duke.







After the first wash. The other concern is some corrosion on the fork inner tubes, that is mainly surface spots, but deeper at some areas near the edge of the dust cover. Don't know if the seals will hold over them ...

Cheers, Doc

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Also, breaking the KTM indicator stalks is an expensive affair. Thecrear left one was always broken and taped up, and still holding. Today my gardener broke the front right one while washing the bike. Serves me right! Do guys here know of cheaper alternatives that work well? I see many aftermarket ones on Amazon for the Duke.

You can try these Uno Minda ones. These are the 2013 design and I assume they are the OE manufacturer. You may also find these locally. I personally used the Dominar ones but they were only slightly cheaper than the KTM's and replacing 4 was an expensive job. But the design was improved over the first batch 390s and less chances of water ingress and breakage.

https://autoqueen.in/product/uno-min...for-ktm-bikes/

https://motoavenue.in/shop/bike-acce...amp-pack-of-2/

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by b16h22

You can try these Uno Minda ones. These are the 2013 design and I assume they are the OE manufacturer. You may also find these locally. I personally used the Dominar ones but they were only slightly cheaper than the KTM's and replacing 4 was an expensive job. But the design was improved over the first batch 390s and less chances of water ingress and breakage.

https://autoqueen.in/product/uno-min...for-ktm-bikes/

https://motoavenue.in/shop/bike-acce...amp-pack-of-2/

Thank you. These should definitely be more authentic in terms of brightness and durability and water proofness than the different types available on Amazon.

However, in the links you have sent, there is no separate option for front and back. The photos in both look like the back indicators. Or are they one and the same, just extending out more at the back?

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Thank you. These should definitely be more authentic in terms of brightness and durability and water proofness than the different types available on Amazon.

However, in the links you have sent, there is no separate option for front and back. The photos in both look like the back indicators. Or are they one and the same, just extending out more at the back?

The cable length on these should be interchangeable between front and back. I checked the cable length on the old OE indicators and the front and back ones were of the same length.