[Asish_VK]

Hi dkaile,

Congrats on the new bike ! Also nicely written reviews (Both bike and the charger)

OT: Question : How is Himalayan as a daily commuter ?

Why I ask this question is, because I am thinking of changing my bike (Existing is an old Pulsar 150) which I use for office commute in Bangalore (I travel at times where traffic is relatively less ). No I am not that interested on Classic's and Thunderbird's as they are very common in Bangalore roads and the uniqueness of a bullet is lost at least here

I will not be doing any touring or off-roading, well, at least for some time (who knows whats coming). If I buy this as a daily commuter, is it justifiable ? or it will be an overkill ?


Mods, Please remove if inappropriate

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by Asish_VK

OT: Question : How is Himalayan as a daily commuter ?

A frank answer would be NO, if it is just a dedicated city bike. Cheaper options are available which will be more fuel efficient too. Himalayan would just be a overkill with it's additional power and higher suspension. Just as a example, if I had to choose between my Karizma or the Himalayan as my local city ride, I would definitely pick the Karizma. My wife too would be more comfortable on the pillion seat of the Karizma as the seat is flatter, wider and lower. But for highway cruising it really is a no brainer and would definitely be the Himalayan for its higher stance and visibility, fatter tyres for more stability and of course a more powerful engine and it's ability to glide over any surface. But some of my friends using it as a daily rider would disagree, as they are using it in congested Gurgaon traffic with ease and aplomb.

But for me, Himalayan is built to explore the country. To go anywhere. But even then, if your heart is set on it, you won't really go wrong with it.

Hope that helps. Cheers...

[Cyborg]

Hi Dkaile,

Congratulations and super interesting thread as always!

Since your friend is the dealer for RE could you please check with him regarding the ABS version of the Himalayan. Is the launch possible and if so the approximate time-frame.

Thanks and all the best.

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by Cyborg

Since your friend is the dealer for RE could you please check with him regarding the ABS version of the Himalayan.

There is no news about the same except speculation. The twin disk brakes as it is work excellently.

Cheers...

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by dkaile

One thing my mechanic was trained luckily was the engine of the Himalayan. He taught me to adjust the tappets myself in case the noise increases and I am far away from the dealership. It's a simple ten minutes process.

Would be great if you could post the steps here the next time when you are at it!

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Would be great if you could post the steps here the next time when you are at it!

Don't want to disturb any settings for now till I face any issue, but I will post a photo of the head bolts to be loosened, soon.

[Rahul4]

Congrats on your bike buddy.

Re Himalayan is a cracker of a ride. I test drove one the previous day, found it very impressive. the engine is refined and gives very good low end torque. The thud thud sound from the exhaust when you stop giving throttle is amazing and feels good when you ride on the road. The ride is very planted and stable. Special attention to be given to those amazing suspension which soak up all the bumps and rough patches of the road very well. The build quality is good. The engine is good for cruising speeds below 100 kmph but above that the engine feels stressed and shouts a lot.

I have a few questions though?
1. The seat did feel comfortable but is it the same during a long drive (around 300-400 kms at a stretch)?
2. I have heard of loose bolts issues with RE previously? Is there a solution to this problem?
3. how about the fuel efficiency?
4. Any other noticeable issues/lag in the performance of the ride during long drive?
5. I found the tyres lacking grip in tarmac? How did you find them when they got warmed up during the long drive?

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by Rahul4

The engine is good for cruising speeds below 100 kmph but above that the engine feels stressed and shouts a lot.

I have a few questions though?
1. The seat did feel comfortable but is it the same during a long drive (around 300-400 kms at a stretch)?
2. I have heard of loose bolts issues with RE previously? Is there a solution to this problem?
3. how about the fuel efficiency?
4. Any other noticeable issues/lag in the performance of the ride during long drive?
5. I found the tyres lacking grip in tarmac? How did you find them when they got warmed up during the long drive?

Thanks. Let the engine break-in properly and speeds of around 120~130 should not be an issue.

1. Anything above 3~400 kms will stress you out, on any bike. For those ranges, air cushion seats pads like Ride-on-Air, can be tried.
2. Use bolt fastener adhesives like Loctite Blue or similar
3. Seems to be around 30ish though yet to tested on a tank to tank basis
4. Nothing that I am concerned about
5. Excellent grippy tyres. Surprised by your comment.

Cheers...

[dkaile]

Project - Auxiliary Light Fitment and Additional Twin Horn

So, although I found the stock headlight sufficient, but what's a Adventure Tourer without Auxiliary Lights... lolz. Also, though I loved the 'Road Runner' stock Minda horn, something stronger was needed to make it's presence felt in the chocked UP traffic.

So these were procured -

27W x 2 Waterproof LED Lights. Each having 9 LED's of 3W each. The round shape matches with the bike's headlights.



2 Output (3 wire) Power Switch for these lights (from AliExpress)



Roots Smartone Twin Horns. I had installed these on my Karizma too and somehow liked the sound better than the Windtones. Also the shape and profile matches the overall 'round' theme I was carrying forward for the bike.



4 Point Mini Relay for the Horns



This is the exact wiring Diagram I used for the Horns (after the 2-way switch)



Some Scotch Lock Quick Splice Connector to avoid 'cutting' any wire. This was needed since I needed to tap into supply from a wire that got current after the ignition was switched on and not a direct one from the battery, as a direct one could lead to full battery drainage in case someone switched on the lights by mistake on an off bike.




Initially I removed the stock horn and fitted these twin horns in it's place





Though they sounded nice but I missed the original beep beep sound that I have been raving about. So the stock horn was replaced back in it's original position and a 2-way (6 pin) computer power switch was installed so that I could go back to the original road runner sound whenever I wished. Here's the original horn, a 2A Minda unit but well built.



Not a fan of the chromed front of the horn on a blacked out bike. Little oversight here by RE.



So the seats were removed to access the battery and the fuse box



The fuse box was opened and wires identified to source out the current



The Red Wire with the blue stripe was chosen. It also supplied current to the horn and could easily take the additional load of 54 watts that I was planning to put on it. And it was routed through the ignition key and got current through the main fuse of the bike, so I would get double fuse protection as I was planning to add a fusible link to this wire in any case.



The scotch lock connector was added to this wire without any cutting. All connections were properly tested before hand with a multimeter.



A closer look at the scotch lock connector attached to the wire. This kind of scotch lock connector was chosen as the socket it goes into can easily be removed to go back to the stock look at any time.



Now the fuel tank was removed to route the cabling underneath it



Here is the wiring job completed and accessories finally installed at their final positions



This is the 2-way switch installed and neatly hidden under handlebar chassis for easily accessibility as well as being discreet



This is the position of the Power Switch to the Auxiliary Lights, zip tied besides the ignition switch



While at it, the crank case was checked for any leaks after the 200 kms ride. None found, luckily...lolz



This is the engine head and tappet area. You can see the 4 central bolts which need to be loosened up before adjusting the tappets. Then the tappet cover on both sides to be opened up. Then carefully adjusted. The head bolts to be tightened back in star position. Detailed procedure can be demonstrated only when I get them adjusted next.



Not to happy with the clamps that I had put on those Auxiliary Lights. Those used were not of my required quality standards as I had procured them locally as none came along with the packaging. I am on the lookout for some good quality ones like this one pictured below



Here is the finished work. I think these auxiliary lights match with the bike's overall look perfectly and complements it further...





Cheers for now...

[howler]

@dkaile : have you observed any knocking like sound from the engine on acceleration ? I'm keeping it under 3k rpm right now for run in

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by howler

have you observed any knocking like sound from the engine on acceleration ? I'm keeping it under 3k rpm right now for run in

The engine supposedly redlines @6.5k rpm. So keeping it below 20% of the peak is the basic rule of thumb while breaking-in, as per my experience. Though I too have ridden it at max between 3~4k rpm. 5th gear is not happy below 60kmph, so if it is engaged before that, knocking is felt. Basically, it is properly getting used to shifting gears appropriately, to avoid any knocking. Initially I too experienced some knocking but then I realized that it is all a gear change game with this engine. Love the engine btw, nothing like the other modern REs that I have ridden.

Cheers...

[dkaile]

Some more photos of the Auxiliary Lights modification

Head On View



With the Auxiliary Lights switched ON



With the Headlight ON on low beam and Auxiliary Lights ON



With the Headlight ON on high beam and Auxiliary Lights ON. As can be clearly made out, the LED's are much brighter than the headlight



Close up view of the 27W Auxiliary Light's waterproof body. I would say I got a great deal on these lights as I have seen people spending upto 7~10k on 20W LED's when the same are available on AliExpress for around 1~2k.



Close up of it's front



And now switched ON



Close up of the Roots Smartone Horn (Right Side) along with stock



Left Side view



Close Up of these upgrades



Cheers...

[vishal.joshi]

The aux lamps and horns are a nice addition to the bike . However, in an event the bike falls, the 1st thing to go will be those lamps sirjee. Why don`t you try placing the lamps close or in line to the main HL. This should give you much better lighting on the road and a bit of safety on damage of the aux lamps. Just my 2 cents.

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by vishal.joshi

However, in an event the bike falls, the 1st thing to go will be those lamps. Why don`t you try placing the lamps close or in line to the main HL. This should give you much better lighting on the road and a bit of safety on damage of the aux lamps. Just my 2 cents.

I checked placing them at other vantage positions and this was the best option. The spread of the light is much further and placing it closer to the headlight will only decrease the spread, if anything. The purpose of 'my' bike is not to do hard core off-roading but mile crunching touring, so I doubt if I start falling now after 30 years on the road...lol. Anyways, if a fall does 'inadvertently' happen, isn't it better to loose these 850 bucks of easily replaceable aux lights than any other major damage. These are not BMW 1200GS parts for God's sake... lolz

Cheers...

[navpreet318]

I would suggest getting an engine guard from RE or getting one made yourself and then placing the lights and horn etc. on the inside of the guard or in a location where the guard protects due to its angle.

For instance on the GS I have installed the aux lights on both sides of the headlight as the angle made by the engine guards is such that it will never come in contact in case of a lay down or fall.

Those lights are really cheap though. A good deal I must say. How is the throw on road. I would also suggest getting a Morimoto 4300K HID kit for your headlight. They are superb! I have them on both high and low beams on the GS.