[fieroid]

Well HH has always done that. The part nos remain the same however the component is revised. You will only be lucky if you can find the right one that u need.
In case of CDIs u cant really make out anything outside the box.
The curves could have been changed a bit, i.e could be running a more linear map to get better FE. The older bikes were indeed faster, I know. The new ones are linear and more fuel efficient.

[Sankar]

Yes guys, the tm32 seems to work a lot better with the older CDI and the stock pipe, the automech pipe dint feel this good in the current setup.

The part number is the same between the old & new CDIs, nothing to differentiate between them, except the way partnumber is printed on it. This may not be important but just an observation, the old CDI felt a lil more heavier than the CDI my bike came with.

Oh today i found that there were three kinds of Karizmas out there, first one the original Karizma with "Karizma" 3D lettering on the tank, second one with with golden "Karizma" stickering on the tank and third the R type. I dint know the second type existed at all. The present CDI i'm using came off the first type.

[Sankar]

I forgot to add this bit of information which i noticed when i did the CDI swap.

With just a change of CDI from new to old zma's (carb stock, rejetter) the bike started to heat up a little bit more compared to before when it was running on the original CDI. Then it struck me why the HH bozos may have decided to use a 30W oil instead of the 40W recommended for old Karizmas. The newer CDIs probably dint have the advanced timing curve the old ones had and it may have contributed to lesser engine heating and thus the need for only a lighter oil. The old CDIs prolly had the timing a lil more advanced and produced more heat necesitating the use of a heavier oil. The HH bozos can't just change the recommended engine oil grade based on which side of the bed they get up from; there had to be some change in the engine, and i believe that change was in the timing curve!

They must've done this in order to extract more fuel economy from the R bike; a tamer (lamer) timing curve and lesser weight oil (leading to lesser drag). Now do you guys remember when i said i used to get very good fuel economy, same thread long back. Everything adds up now

And guys, how do remove the catcon from the stock silencer. Where do i get it cut to get the cat con viscera out? And would there be any marginal difference in performance, is it worth it? Thanks to Sunny for reminding me about the catcon

[Technocrat]

Oh today i found that there were three kinds of Karizmas out there, first one the original Karizma with "Karizma" 3D lettering on the tank, second one with with golden "Karizma" stickering on the tank and third the R type. I dint know the second type existed at all.

Mine was the Second one, check out my last post where I had mentioned this :-)

ith just a change of CDI from new to old zma's (carb stock, rejetter) the bike started to heat up a little bit more compared to before when it was running on the original CDI. Then it struck me why the HH bozos may have decided to use a 30W oil instead of the 40W recommended for old Karizmas.

This is really an important piece of information as till date I was not sure why they had changed the oil specification. Thats some good observation Sankar. Thanks for sharing

[Sankar]

Hi guys, this is how the sparkplug looks now with the TM32 carb. What do you guys think? I think it's almost right maybe a lil bit lean at the tops. Lemme know what you think.



And here's the bike with stock pipe and TM32.

[akshay4587]

Originally Posted by Sankar

I forgot to add this bit of information which i noticed when i did the CDI swap.

With just a change of CDI from new to old zma's (carb stock, rejetter) the bike started to heat up a little bit more compared to before when it was running on the original CDI. Then it struck me why the HH bozos may have decided to use a 30W oil instead of the 40W recommended for old Karizmas. The newer CDIs probably dint have the advanced timing curve the old ones had and it may have contributed to lesser engine heating and thus the need for only a lighter oil. The old CDIs prolly had the timing a lil more advanced and produced more heat necesitating the use of a heavier oil. The HH bozos can't just change the recommended engine oil grade based on which side of the bed they get up from; there had to be some change in the engine, and i believe that change was in the timing curve!

They must've done this in order to extract more fuel economy from the R bike; a tamer (lamer) timing curve and lesser weight oil (leading to lesser drag). Now do you guys remember when i said i used to get very good fuel economy, same thread long back. Everything adds up now

And guys, how do remove the catcon from the stock silencer. Where do i get it cut to get the cat con viscera out? And would there be any marginal difference in performance, is it worth it? Thanks to Sunny for reminding me about the catcon

i have the 2nd version and my friends 1st gen zma is rotting away after he got R1,time for a CDI swap
Regarding the catcon you need to cut from the joint where the bend pipe ends.i ruined my older exhaust in quest to remove catcon.
if you still wanna do it,make sure its removed completely,any remaining particles will create a racket.

[xxaarraa]

Originally Posted by akshay4587

i have the 2nd version and my friends 1st gen zma is rotting away after he got R1,time for a CDI swap
Regarding the catcon you need to cut from the joint where the bend pipe ends.i ruined my older exhaust in quest to remove catcon.
if you still wanna do it,make sure its removed completely,any remaining particles will create a racket.

True. My catcon was rattling when I got the bike (rust had eaten the mounts?). But a BikeZone tech was able to cut it open, weld it back and burn the hole back as well. So, yeah, definitely can be gotten to.

[Sankar]

But, did you guys notice any difference in performance after the catcon was removed?

[Jaggu]

Looks little lean also the picture is not very clear, try to get a clean shot of the ceramic ring.

[suresheadala]

Hi Friends, bought a new karizma last week. Completed 200km. I am maintaining the bike below 3.5K RPM.
My bikes petrol tank is getting hot when i am running it more than 20min. The engine is getting very very hot. Is this common?
Any suggestions?

[Sankar]

Petrol tank getting hot is normal on new Karizma, because the engine heats up a bit too much. It should be fine after the first couple of services. If not bring it up with the supervisor at A$$.

[akshay4587]

Sankar there was hardly any noticeable difference after removing the cat con
I would suggest not to mess with zma's exhaust,try to get hold of Old CBZ's(pre 2000 model) exhaust.
Here are the pics of the HID bulb,you can see how solenoid part sits neatly,however you need to cut the rubber ring.
the downside is that water goes into headlamp while washing,i learnt it the hardway.
Here are the pics

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by akshay4587

Sankar there was hardly any noticeable difference after removing the cat con
I would suggest not to mess with zma's exhaust,try to get hold of Old CBZ's(pre 2000 model) exhaust.
Here are the pics of the HID bulb,you can see how solenoid part sits neatly,however you need to cut the rubber ring.
the downside is that water goes into headlamp while washing,i learnt it the hardway.
Here are the pics

Many thanks for that photo man! Now i can go ahead and install it without having to cut the supporting bracket. About the exhaust i'll leave as it is, old CBZ exhausts are hard to come by.

Akshay, If you have water getting into the headlamp problem i suggest you do the following:- Get a new rubber cap for the headlamp, make a hole with slightly smaller dia (by an mm) than the actual diameter needed for the HID base to pass through. Carefully push the hid bulb through the rubber. This would ensure that the hole would seal against the base and won't let any water in. Use RTV silicome sealant to make it 100% waterproof! Will take and post some photos when i install it.

[Sankar]

I did the HID conversion on my Karizma. Specs are: Philips 6000k, HiLo, 35W. Photos will follow.

[Sankar]

I got the HID kit last evening started installing at around 930pm got over with it by 0000hours Routing the wire as neatly as possible was the major headache, there's too much of it. Second was mounting the ballast, which was solved well. Below are the photos of my HID kit and installation, there ain't many, since i was too excited to finish it rather than take photos.

*Pic number 6 is the HID relay cum control box.
*Pic number 7 is the +ve lead to battery, it has an inline 30Amp blade fuse.
*In pic 8 you can see the three pin plug that plugs into the stock headlamp wiring.
*In pic number 9 you can see the ballast mounted next to the headlamp using a double sided sticky pad that came with the kit.
*Pic number 10 shows you the little screw screwed in flush that secures the ballast with a screwnbolt arrangement.