[KA18]

Originally Posted by stnair

The feeling is great. Only hitch being the "false neutrals" encountered- Having ridden a HH Splendor for 10 years with its Butter smooth and solid Gear shift, False neutrals are something new to me. But more than the false neutral, Its how to get out of the false neutral thats troubling me. I mean when I encounter one, I panic, kick the gear lever here and there making heavy crackling noise breaking my heart. I hope I will master the art of Gear shifting on an RE soon.

Gurus, I have the same doubts regarding running in as Mantrig asked- but in my case, its one more gear down- Can I skip 4th and 5th gear during Running in? Due to my inexperience and the traffic in my city plus the road conditions, I cant take him beyond 3rd gear. Anything above 3rd causes lugging. Its very difficult to keep within the speed limits specified in the Owners manual.

But just a twist of Accelerator and He flies.... Yes its a "He" - Its hard to keep him below 40-50 range.

Don't worry, the false neutrals reduce after the bike adds kilometeres.
I had the same problem as I shifted from my Victor to the Bullet.
I imagined that I am changing gears twice on a Bullet and got it right as the gear lever throw is larger than a regular 100cc bike.

The trick is to press/lift the gear lever fully until it falls into place. If you get stuck in a false neutral, changing the gear when the bike is in motion does not make noises.

However, if you are not in motion, gently rock the bike back and forth while shifting gears.

Regarding running-in, most manufacturers suggest riding the bikes in different speeds (within the limits) through all the the gears.

Make sure there is no loss of power in any gear and you should be fine.

The above tips may help you accustom to the bike.

Yeah, difficult to accept the Bullet as a "She"!

[Randhawa]

Running in with lower gears will not help your bike to cool as during running in there is more heat created then after your running in is done. So choose wisely how you want to do the running in.

[stnair]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

Running in with lower gears will not help your bike to cool as during running in there is more heat created then after your running in is done. So choose wisely how you want to do the running in.

Thanks for the info. That means it is better to avoid city commuting and go for short open rides during running in so the engine cools down and specified speed/gear ratios can be achieved.

regards

San

[EssYouWe]

Hi guys!

Sorry haven't checked in recently. Was kind of busy with work and all.

False neutrals are something you better get used to. I still encounter them sometimes, and there isn't a way to avoid them other than being in the right rev range and being firm with the shift action.
However, with these precautions it becomes very easy to avoid them for majority of your running. They will be frequent till your first oil change.

As mentioned by Sanjeet, get the oil changed soon. Don't drive beyond 500 kms, and get it out of the way soon.

Running in:
Well, Itried to be very meticulous with the running in and it has borne fruit for me. This is probably the most important phase of a Bullet's ownership.
What I concentrated on was to keep speeds varying across gears (driving across gears at wide rpm range). I did impose a 50 kmph speed limit till 200 kms (not sure, but would be somewhere around this).
The most important part which is mostly forgotten is... DO NOT LUG THE BIKE. It can be just as damaging as over-revving. This is not a CI bull, it will not run low rpms at high gears. Do not try doing that.
According to me, it is okay to touch 60 or even 65 kmph, but not for sustained periods. I personally did not touch speeds above 70, despite Sanjeet and Shantanu coaxing me to go for it.
You may take your call on this. I felt it was safer not to.
Try and make sure that every ride on the Bull is longer than 5-6 kms. Preferably in low traffic and not when it is too hot (doubt it would be the case now that winters are around the corner).
As far as cool running of the engine is concerned, it happens when it is running at the correct rpm for a gear. Neither lugging, nor over-revving are good for the engine's heat treatment.

Hope you are enjoying your rides! Pics please.

Ride safe and wear your gear. Cheers!

[mantrig]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

IF you have done 500km then you can easily take her to 80-90 but never keep at one pace. Just go by the book and you will not go wrong. Keep her between 80-90 upto 2k and thats all for your running in. Just dont pamper her too much or too scared of taking her to 80-90(thats what manual recommends and I can vouch for their running in schedule)

I am hoping that you got the first service done. Do not ride a single km after that without oil change and I prefer changing oil at 250km or as earliest as possible before 500km(first service).

If you are planning a 250km ride then you have a fantastic opportunity to run in just right. Dont keep her under 55 or even try to skip 5th gear and also do not keep her in any gear under 5 for a long time. Wary your speed between 60-90 and enjoy your ride.

No Sanjeet, 500 kms not done yet. Am stuck at 350, as was out during last whole week. Also, dont have the manual yet as still the registration # has not arrived. Ganpati festival, so cops are also kinda busy which I can understand.

Planning to complete 500kms before Friday and get the oil changed then. Dont want to risk taking the bike out anymore without proper registration documents, hoping it comes by the weekend.

Good to hear that I can go above 60 once 1st service and 500kms are done. I am eagerly looking forward to receiving the manual to read about running in.

Achint - Thank you for you inputs on running in the bike.
I think I am pretty much doing the same and the best part is my rides are during non traffic hours (3pm or 1:00am) and the distance is almost 25+ kms one way. So its helping me with the running in.

Can someone (Achint / StNair) scan and email me the running in part from the manual.

[Randhawa]

Here you go-

[stnair]

@Randhawa, Mantrig

I think being a C5, Randhawa's manual is different from my C3. So I am attaching scanned copy of My C3 Owner's manual Running in page also.

I got the Owner's manual at time of delivery and Registration mark the next day. The Registration Certificate will be sent by RTO after a month.

I can scan and send more pages if required.

regards

San

[Randhawa]

Oh dear! Running in for booth the classics should be same so why the difference. I guess extra CC can help you in running in at higher speeds

[bmw_m5_titus]

Gurus, I have a doubt. From the details available on the RE website, of the 3 UCE engined 350s, namely Electra, Thunderbird and Classic 350, the first two have 35/35w headlight while the Classic 350 seems to have 55/60w illumination. What I would like to know is whether the Classic has a different/more powerful coil or is it identical to the tbird and electra uce? All 3 same to share the same battery spec.

[Randhawa]

I am not sure but I think all the UCE engines have the same coils and the headlight bulb wattage is just to make a difference between the expensive models. I'll confirm it tomorrow.

[mantrig]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

Here you go-

Originally Posted by stnair

@Randhawa, Mantrig

I think being a C5, Randhawa's manual is different from my C3. So I am attaching scanned copy of My C3 Owner's manual Running in page also.

I got the Owner's manual at time of delivery and Registration mark the next day. The Registration Certificate will be sent by RTO after a month.

I can scan and send more pages if required.

regards

San

Thank you guys, the images have been helpful and I have peace of mind knowing I have been doing the right thing.

Hey San, you are really lucky to have received you manual and even the registration # so soon. Actually, the only reason for delay here is the festive season during which a lot of cops are either at their natives or on the roads due to extra bandwith required to manage the crowds and traffic due to Ganpati Processions.

I visited the dealer today, he has confirmed that I will be getting my documents on Thursday afternoon.

[stnair]

Did around 80 km today. (20km city + 60km Highway). I think I am getting the hang of it and False neutrals are becoming lesser and lesser. But My present problem is I cant find the Real Neutral . I mean I want to stop the Bike and I shift down from 4th to 3rd to 2nd and then it goes to 1st. I kick back and it goes to 2nd again. I try downshift and it goes to 1st gear. I mean How do I get to the Real neutral which is between the 1st and 2nd gears?

I weigh exactly 70kg and no Bum pain so far- even after 60 km almost continuous highway ride. So I suppose I can live with the spring seats.

Attaching some pictures. Sorry I am not a pro with Photography.

[mantrig]

Originally Posted by stnair

Did around 80 km today. (20km city + 60km Highway).

My present problem is I cant find the Real Neutral . How do I get to the Real neutral which is between the 1st and 2nd gears?

I weigh exactly 70kg and no Bum pain so far- even after 60 km almost continuous highway ride. So I suppose I can live with the spring seats.

Attaching some pictures. Sorry I am not a pro with Photography.

Hey, 80kms ride sounds good to start with before you start doing rides that get 80kms one way and then with to 800kms round trip.

False Neutrals will dissappear over time as you ride around more and get used to the right amount of tap.

Again the same thing - To get to the nuetral slot there is only a certain amount of force required which you will figure out in the next couple of days. I faced this issue at the signals for 1st 100kms but now I manage to unconciously get the bike in Nuetral without even looking down. So you can just relax on this one for now.

Infact, I used to find it difficult using the nuetral finder on my standard bull (RHS Gears) when I started some years back but as time passed by I mastered the use of the lever to the extent that I could get into the 3rd or 2nd gear as well other than the nuetral by using the right amount of force on the lever.

Last but not the least, good pics sir. As the rides get longer your skills with the camera will get better simply as you start associating more with her.

Oppsss, I meant him - Like brothers in Arms ;o)

[Randhawa]

Try using half clutch to ease on false neutral.

[bmw_m5_titus]

Randhawa, thanks, appreciate your help and input.
And as you, half clutch works to find neutral, atleast it helped with lb500.