[Pferdestarke]

Originally Posted by achopraa

Both High and Low beams are generated from the same bulb filament with only one of it glowing at a time.I would expect the same behaviour in Projector lamps as well, so IMHO all is well.

AFAIK the only dual-beam halogen bulbs available are H4 and HB12, which houses seperate filaments for low and high beams. So they light up only one beam at a time. For the rest, the headlight assembly accomodates seperate bulbs for both beams. Coming to Rapid's headlamps, the projector is for low beam and the high beam is taken care by a halogen with reflector. The projector gets dimmed out when switched to high-beam but wouldn't go off.
Low beam.

High beam.

Originally Posted by torque18

The low beam(projector) would go off every time high beam was flashed or the switch pushed back (constant high beam) when ideally on high beam the low beam should also stay on.

The older headlamps house H4 bulbs. So the same bulb gets input for both beams, whereas in new headlight assembly there are two seperate bulbs. I think this is something to do with the wiring. Please put up your query in this thread. They can surely help you out on this.

[ashw_r]

The air from the AC ducts of my Rapid fails to shutdown completely even 30 minutes after turning it off. I feel that car efficiency has also gone down due to this; hardly getting 11-12kpl in city.

Has anyone experienced this and got it fixed?

[Santoshbhat]

Originally Posted by ashw_r

The air from the AC ducts of my Rapid fails to shutdown completely even 30 minutes after turning it off. I feel that car efficiency has also gone down due to this; hardly getting 11-12kpl in city.

Has anyone experienced this and got it fixed?

Have you set the AC to recirculation mode or fresh air mode? When you set it to fresh air mode, outside air comes in through the AC duct even if the fan and AC are switched off. The faster you go, higher is the flow of air. This has no impact on mileage.

Check for other things like tyre air pressure, fuel quality etc... if you are experiencing drop in mileage. If you ask me 12 kmpl in the city is pretty decent mileage within the city for a midsizer.

[ashw_r]

Originally Posted by Santoshbhat

recirculation mode or fresh air mode?

Thanks for your reply. I have it set to recirculation mode almost all the time.

About the mileage, it has settled around 12 kmpl after the 6th month service. It used to give 14 prior to that. I take the e-city toll road to office and another colleague mentioned he gets 14 on a comparable route. Hence, the thought.

The mileage could well be down to my driving style but it does not concern me more than the 'escaping' air.

[Santoshbhat]

Originally Posted by ashw_r

Thanks for your reply. I have it set to recirculation mode almost all the time.

About the mileage, it has settled around 12 kmpl after the 6th month service. It used to give 14 prior to that. I take the e-city toll road to office and another colleague mentioned he gets 14 on a comparable route. Hence, the thought.

The mileage could well be down to my driving style but it does not concern me more than the 'escaping' air.

In that case your recirculation valve may be broken. The ASC should be able to fix it.

[torque18]

Originally Posted by achopraa

In a normal Headlight, only one beam works at time i.e. either you are at High Beam or at low beam.
Both High and Low beams are generated from the same bulb filament with only one of it glowing at a time.
What glows along with both the beams are the parking lights (small bulbs inside the Headlight Assembly).
I would expect the same behaviour in Projector lamps as well, so IMHO all is well.

On the other hand, what was the cost of the Projector lamps and any pics to share after your setup.

Finally - Congratulations!!!

I haven't got it installed in my car yet as for that i would need to travel 200 kms.

But I had place order for the lights against advance payment and on their arrival the workshop guys tested it in some other Rapid and have reported the issue to me. They have asked me to get in touch with them after 2-3 days by which time they will hopefully have some solution.

The cost of the lights is approx Rs. 9500 each.

Originally Posted by Pferdestarke

AFAIK the only dual-beam halogen bulbs available are H4 and HB12, which houses seperate filaments for low and high beams. So they light up only one beam at a time. For the rest, the headlight assembly accomodates seperate bulbs for both beams. Coming to Rapid's headlamps, the projector is for low beam and the high beam is taken care by a halogen with reflector. The projector gets dimmed out when switched to high-beam but wouldn't go off.

The older headlamps house H4 bulbs. So the same bulb gets input for both beams, whereas in new headlight assembly there are two seperate bulbs. I think this is something to do with the wiring. Please put up your query in this thread. They can surely help you out on this.

Thanks. I am hoping to hear from them in a day or two. Lets see what they have to say first

[manas27587]

Originally Posted by narsi_6989

Hi motoworks, as Pferdestarke it is possible to procure the cover alone. Since you have already replaced the complete assembly now, the below information can be used for future reference.

I just enquired at Dashmesh auto.
He too claimed that only the cover cannot be procured and the whole assembly has to be bought and will cost 2200 for the left tail light.

[dspeter]

Originally Posted by achopraa

Dealer prices for accesories is always on a higher side by atleast 20-30%.

Try finding an accessory shop outside to get best VFM leatherette seat covers.

You can also try converting seat into bucket style seat by removing orginal cloth and getting the seats stitched in leatherette(and they do feel good).

The downside with Leatherette is their ability to be too hot or too cold in extreme weathers but on the other hand its too easy to clean them (specially since we have beige) as compared to the Cloth based covers.



PS:- for around 42k more, i got Skoda Antares alloys, reverse camera, garmin Nuvi GPS navigator with Reverse display, parking sensors and Art Leather Covers under the Leisure Model.

Keeping above in mind, 10K seems to be on a bit higher side.

I have dropped the plan to install leather seats for now due to cost. Enquired with Karlsson Bangalore and they quoted me 46k. It's ridiculously high.

But I feel reverse parking camera (RC) is an essential requirement due to limited visibility from the RVM. Again ruled out integrated GPS & Camera in the HU due to high cost. I'm considering 2 options and need advise from this forum. Both are on-dash systems

Opt# 1 Mapmyindia (MMI) GPS with concealed wiring at left end corner on dash with integrated reverse camera. Cost 19k

Opt# 2 Garmin Nuvi GPS with integrate RC powered externally from the cigarette lighter charger :-) (pls excuse my ignorance. I have no idea what's the technical term for this element) Cost 25-27k. I guess the high cost is maybe for the brand.

I personally prefer Option 1 mainly due to concealed wiring. However I'm seeking feedback based on user experience with Mapmyindia.

Secondly I'm personally disappointed to know he reverse parking sensor output is not displayed in the OEM HU and would require an additional device to be planted over the dash. So that makes it 2 devices over the dash. Has anyone installed both over the dash? Can this be integrated into MMI device?

Thanks

[achopraa]

Originally Posted by dspeter

I have dropped the plan to install leather seats for now due to cost. Enquired with Karlsson Bangalore and they quoted me 46k. It's ridiculously high.

But I feel reverse parking camera (RC) is an essential requirement due to limited visibility from the RVM.
[/quote]

Again

Opt# 1 Mapmyindia (MMI) GPS with concealed wiring at left end corner on dash with integrated reverse camera. Cost 19k

Having the Unit at extreme left corner will hinder your ability to perform navigation while you are at Driver's seat. I had my Garmin Navigation + Rear Camera provided with this setup by Dealer and I was very annoyed whenever I had to lean to extreme left.

Have a look below at how it was earlier in my TDI.

Navigation Unit with Camera and Parking Sensors with Display

Opt# 2 Garmin Nuvi GPS with integrate RC powered externally from the cigarette lighter charger :-) (pls excuse my ignorance. I have no idea what's the technical term for this element) Cost 25-27k. I guess the high cost is maybe for the brand.

This is what I have and personally I am very happy with

1. Navigation Unit
2. Reverse Camera
3. Integrated Bluetooth Handsfree in the Navigation Unit

"powered externally from the cigarette lighter charger" means that the navigation Unit will have be powered by the Chigarette light Charger and thus
a) Your Car Charger unit will be occupied
b) The wire to the Navigation Unit will be dangling outside.

The Garmin Navigation Unit is available for around 16-17K and the Camera should not be more than 6K(worst case) and thus 25-27 seems to be a bit on higher side.

I personally prefer Option 1 mainly due to concealed wiring. However I'm seeking feedback based on user experience with Mapmyindia.

Secondly I'm personally disappointed to know he reverse parking sensor output is not displayed in the OEM HU and would require an additional device to be planted over the dash. So that makes it 2 devices over the dash. Has anyone installed both over the dash? Can this be integrated into MMI device?
Thanks

First, check below how both of them look at Dash with different Pics
My Rapid TDI

This is my current setup -


And this is how concealed the Unit.
Concealing the Navigation Unit wiring

I hope I have not let you more confused than you were before.

[Pferdestarke]

Guys, need a little help here. I feel the gear shifts in my Rapid are notchy especially from 1st to 2nd. No matter how slow I release the clutch it ends up giving a jerky transition. Is it common for a new car or should I suspect any issue? Also, up to what rpms do you revv before up-shifting?

[achopraa]

Originally Posted by Pferdestarke

Guys, need a little help here. I feel the gear shifts in my Rapid are notchy especially from 1st to 2nd. No matter how slow I release the clutch it ends up giving a jerky transition. Is it common for a new car or should I suspect any issue? Also, up to what rpms do you revv before up-shifting?

I would call it notchy if we are not able to slot the gear properly.
If you are getting Jerks while releasing clutch, either the clutch is having issues or may be the clutch is not being released as expected.
The problem usually occurs when we move from Petrol to Diesel since Diesel has a long play and is a bit hard as compared to the Petrol vehicles.

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by Pferdestarke

...No matter how slow I release the clutch it ends up giving a jerky transition. Is it common for a new car or should I suspect any issue?...

I would attribute it more to the personal driving technique. While I can release the clutch smoothly in my Swift (been driving it for 4 years & ~80,000 kms), I could never do it on my friends' Linea / Punto due to the long clutch travel.

At the same time, my friends never had issues with their cars. So that's my way of releasing the clutch causing the jerk.

At the same time, I had a very similar issue in my Swift too, which was eradicated by bleeding the clutch. The reason I was told was that there could be air bubbles in the clutch fluid due to driving style. After clutch bleeding, the issue never happened again.

[Pferdestarke]

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

I would attribute it more to the personal driving technique. While I can release the clutch smoothly in my Swift (been driving it for 4 years & ~80,000 kms), I could never do it on my friends' Linea / Punto due to the long clutch travel.

Yes, the clutch in my Rapid has a long range and almost no freeplay as compared to swift. Have been driving swift for 5 years. I think this needs a little getting used to.Thanks for pointing this

[hrman]

Originally Posted by Pferdestarke

Guys, need a little help here. I feel the gear shifts in my Rapid are notchy especially from 1st to 2nd. No matter how slow I release the clutch it ends up giving a jerky transition. Is it common for a new car or should I suspect any issue? Also, up to what rpms do you revv before up-shifting?

I face this sometimes. Its more to do with the way of driving. You can try releasing the clutch and then pressing the accelerator. You can minimise the jerk then.

[ad3952n]

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Thanks

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Source: http://www.cardekho.com/india-car-ne...ched-12525.htm