[Racer911]

Originally Posted by PrisonMike

Lovely, I'm sure you're just aching to get them installed and to experience the difference yourself.

Do let me know if you too face a weird snapping issue, where if you go over a bump the rear tires seem to almost snap back to the ground. I've been facing that for a while now, and I never managed to get to the bottom of the issue.

Yeah exactly. I have got a lot of stuff to be maintained in the car first. will have to part ways for 7 days. some idiot sprayed acid over the bonnet and spoilt the paintwork.

Will let you know regarding the snapping issue. the front strut bushes are clearly seeming a quality above the locally available Febi and the OEMs. They're harder and seem to have slightly more weight. Will check this when removing the old setup. The rear shocks being monotube, are clearly much stiffer than the ones installed currently. Tested this with full body weight.

The main thing I am curious to observe is whether only the stiffness and stability on smooth highway roads is improved or the overall absorption of minute road unevenness is also improved like the older vehicles and also if the unsettling of the vehicle is reduced when going over potholes, bumps, not in a straightline but while cornering at highway speeds, which was a very good property in the older cars. Even with uneven roads, sudden bumps and potholes, no steering correction was required to maintain the line in which the vehicle was moving.

Is the snapping issue with Sachs shocks? If it is, do let me know the part number you're using in the rear. There are multiple Sachs shocks being used in the rear by different members, a couple of them

This issue is currently present in the OEM shocks that came factory installed, the OEM made in India ones I changed to after 1L kms, 6RF513025G. I hope it gets eliminated in the ones I have got now.

[PrisonMike]

Originally Posted by Racer911

Is the snapping issue with Sachs shocks? If it is, do let me know the part number you're using in the rear. There are multiple Sachs shocks being used in the rear by different members, a couple of them

This issue is currently present in the OEM shocks that came factory installed, the OEM made in India ones I changed to after 1L kms, 6RF513025G. I hope it gets eliminated in the ones I have got now.

Yes the snapping issue related to the Sachs I have.

Front Part no: 314 717
Rear Part no: 317 336

[hellraiser_yank]

Originally Posted by shetty_rohan

Last Saturday, I met Robi's friend(Ashok) who has paddle shifters installed on his car.

Details of the product/installation:
- Bought it from Vagtune(http://vagtune.in/index.php/volkswag...etrofit-detail).
- Approximate cost Rs 13,600.
- Genuine VW product, along with the Plug-Play installation.
- Installation would need a small cut behind the steering wheel(same could be seen in the photo which has some open stitches).
- Installation was done by Sugesh from Vagtune.
- Owner is pretty happy with the installation. According to him it is functional.

Cost wise comparisons:
- This seems to be the most cost effective, compared to buying the GTI/R line steering. However, is not a perfect fit(you could see some open stitches behind the steering).

Originally Posted by Cynosure

Lovely set of mods!

I was curious about how you went about your DIY steering wheel upgrade?

I own the 1.0 GT TSI and I'm keen on upgrading my steering to one with paddle shifters.

Off topic: This thread has an ocean of knowledge all Polo owners go through, always a brilliant read.

I used a similar method as the above quoted post.

Though wasn't aware of anyone having done this cut and retrofit method at the time.

Parts needed
1. Steering wheel switches from paddle shifter wheel ($60 from china)
2. Steering wheel paddle shifters OEM ($120 from china)

Methodology
1. Remove standard wheel.
2. Make cuts on the back of the wheel where screw provision for paddles already exist (happy surprise for me). Cut throught the soft rubber like material and leather where needed to seat the paddles properly.
3. Remove standard switches.
4. Screw the new paddle shifters into the provisioned hole in the steering wheel.
5. Plug the 3 wire socket of both the paddles into the new switch assembly
6. Install the switches
7. Install the now upgraded wheel and enjoy the DSG shifting as it was intended.

Notes-
I used the Chinese OEM paddle shifter wheel borrowed from the ever so kind Mr. Barman at eurocar_retrofits to use as a template.
I wasn't aware before this mod that standard Indian switches also have the pads for the socket on the back side for paddles, just not the socket. You can potentially install sockets or directly solder the paddles saving some $60 for the switches.

Some pictures. Apologies was too excited to finish up so forgot to take detailed step by step installation pictures.

I got the work done at speedwayz car workshop, a hidden gem in Noida owned by Sumeet Mehdiratta (RD350 king of India).

All parts were supplied by eurocar_retrofits (Instagram handle). I bought the parts well in advance so not sure of the prices now.

DM me if you need any support doing this mod.

[Racer911]

Originally Posted by PrisonMike

Yes the snapping issue related to the Sachs I have.

Front Part no: 314 717
Rear Part no: 317 336

Well, even the 317336 is mentioned as monotube on the ZF website. So I guess I am going to have the same issue as well.

I just hope the ride quality improves as radically as described by everyone on the forum. In the past I've had experience where multiple members are describing and super exaggerating the positive experience of something, tires, fuel, nitrogen in tires, and then in personal experience it turns out be just meh!! may be marginally better, some cases even a placebo effect but nothing to beat the trumpet so loud.

[db01]

Originally Posted by Racer911

Well, even the 317336 is mentioned as monotube on the ZF website. So I guess I am going to have the same issue as well.

I just hope the ride quality improves as radically as described by everyone on the forum. In the past I've had experience where multiple members are describing and super exaggerating the positive experience of something, tires, fuel, nitrogen in tires, and then in personal experience it turns out be just meh!! may be marginally better, some cases even a placebo effect but nothing to beat the trumpet so loud.

I look forward to hearing what you have to say about the Sachs as a friend of mine who runs an FNG recommended I go for TRW or Bilstein B4 instead when I need to replace my OE suspension as he claims the TRW shocks on his Vento are far superior to the Sachs shock he has fitted on customers cars.

[hellraiser_yank]

Originally Posted by PrisonMike

Yes the snapping issue related to the Sachs I have.

Front Part no: 314 717
Rear Part no: 317 336

Will chip in my feedback as well once I install Sachs on my car with OEM springs. Though logic says this is bound to happen as the stock springs are too soft for these dampers and are unable to curtail the movement. This is also very typical of torsion beam suspensions.

To verify, just load up the boot with about 60-70kg or 2 passengers in the rear and the sudden bouncing should stop.

This is the reason I'm looking to swap the springs to stiffer and lower VW racing OEM springs. They add a drop of about 30mm in the front and about 50mm in the back.

I'm by no means an expert in suspensions and might be absolutely incorrect.
Would request members with more knowledge to chip in.

[Racer911]

Originally Posted by db01

I look forward to hearing what you have to say about the Sachs as a friend of mine who runs an FNG recommended I go for TRW or Bilstein B4 instead when I need to replace my OE suspension as he claims the TRW shocks on his Vento are far superior to the Sachs shock he has fitted on customers cars.

No offense, but I seriously doubt that as even TRW is now a ZF owned company, and by the parent company itself placed one tier below Sachs. On a few comments of technically sound nature I read on other forums, I was convinced that Sachs would be the best bet, bilstein too but definitely not TRW. But then again TRW's are being made in different locations, and no matter what, the quality differs. I am sure TRW's in Germany must be much better than what is available to us in India.

Originally Posted by hellraiser_yank

Will chip in my feedback as well once I install Sachs on my car with OEM springs. Though logic says this is bound to happen as the stock springs are too soft for these dampers and are unable to curtail the movement. This is also very typical of torsion beam suspensions.

To verify, just load up the boot with about 60-70kg or 2 passengers in the rear and the sudden bouncing should stop.

This is the reason I'm looking to swap the springs to stiffer and lower VW racing OEM springs. They add a drop of about 30mm in the front and about 50mm in the back.

I'm by no means an expert in suspensions and might be absolutely incorrect.
Would request members with more knowledge to chip in.

it would be the other way around I believe, if the springs are soft for the dampers, there wouldnt be a snap sound on rebound as the springs are unable to get to their original position as quickly as the stiffer springs. If anything, this would suggest that the dampers are underdamped for the given springs and unable to dampen the rebound speed. Similar thing happened to me with the front shocks when I replaced them with the OEM ones from the 2011 models. although highway stability improved, the rebound from a fast speed breaker jump was just pathetic which led me to believe that the current gen cars in the front have stiffer springs and weaker dampers for cost cutting, which has compromised the ride stability and quality. More jittery and jumpy all around as opposed to a smoother motion of the earlier cars. . Maybe the older cars had slightly softer springs but stiff shocks which helped in stability as well as good absorption over bumps at speed. I may be wrong. Been trying to get my hands on original 2011 springs for comparison but unable to find one now.

[Cynosure]

Originally Posted by hellraiser_yank

Parts needed
1. Steering wheel switches from paddle shifter wheel ($60 from china)
2. Steering wheel paddle shifters OEM ($120 from china)

I got the work done at speedwayz car workshop, a hidden gem in Noida owned by Sumeet Mehdiratta (RD350 king of India).

All parts were supplied by eurocar_retrofits (Instagram handle). I bought the parts well in advance so not sure of the prices now.

DM me if you need any support doing this mod.

Thank you kind sir. This is plenty detailed. I will start procuring the part(s) from the suppliers you've listed and reach out to speedwayz.

Will reach out for any support!

This is the first mod I want to ahead with (likely opening a pandora's box haha).

[db01]

Originally Posted by Racer911

No offense, but I seriously doubt that as even TRW is now a ZF owned company, and by the parent company itself placed one tier below Sachs. On a few comments of technically sound nature I read on other forums, I was convinced that Sachs would be the best bet, bilstein too but definitely not TRW. But then again TRW's are being made in different locations, and no matter what, the quality differs. I am sure TRW's in Germany must be much better than what is available to us in India.

None taken, I was also not aligned with him on this as the Sachs are rated very highly on several forums. I just wanted to know how much better you think they are compared to the OE shocks, and I look forward to what you have to say about the difference they make on the road.

[hellraiser_yank]

Originally Posted by Cynosure

Thank you kind sir. This is plenty detailed. I will start procuring the part(s) from the suppliers you've listed and reach out to speedwayz.

Will reach out for any support!

This is the first mod I want to ahead with (likely opening a pandora's box haha).

I'm located in Noida quite close to speedwayz, give me a shout if you're headed this way. You're welcome to have a look at my car and see if there's any other mods you'd like to pick from this Pandora's box.

Also, just now received the set of Sachs dampers. Will try and get them installed tomorrow.

[PrisonMike]

Originally Posted by Racer911

I just hope the ride quality improves as radically as described by everyone on the forum. In the past I've had experience where multiple members are describing and super exaggerating the positive experience of something, tires, fuel, nitrogen in tires, and then in personal experience it turns out be just meh!! may be marginally better, some cases even a placebo effect but nothing to beat the trumpet so loud.

The Sachs are objectively better than the OEM ones in every single way. The car feels more expensive in terms of ride quality. The stiffness does not feel cheap in anyway and feels very reassuring.

But again, it does get stiff, and further pushes the car towards a driver's car spectrum than a passenger/family car. You will DEFINITELY enjoy the difference, especially if you're coming from struts that have already failed/close to failure.

[Racer911]

Originally Posted by PrisonMike

The Sachs are objectively better than the OEM ones in every single way. The car feels more expensive in terms of ride quality. The stiffness does not feel cheap in anyway and feels very reassuring.

But again, it does get stiff, and further pushes the car towards a driver's car spectrum than a passenger/family car. You will DEFINITELY enjoy the difference, especially if you're coming from struts that have already failed/close to failure.

I sure hope so. Actually for the front, I am coming from VW OEM Struts from the 2012 cars, part no. 6R0 413 031 AJ (Made in Germany). There was definitely some mismatch with the springs because the with these struts the rebound was very fast and everytime the car ran over a speed breaker fast, the huge thud sound was heard on rebound. The rear shocks were still the locally made ones. Although, there definitely was improvement in straight line stability as well as quick direction changes, it was not significant enough to compare it with the old gen cars, but I spent just about a 1000 rupees extra overall due to an offer on Boodmo so the expense didnt pinch.

I am not going to replace all dampers simultaneously, first only the rear ones, then the front ones after 2 to 3 days of observation in ride quality. This is to confirm a theory I read on another forum.

[vishaljawahar]

Originally Posted by Racer911

This is to confirm a theory I read on another forum.

Intrigued to know what it is!

[Racer911]

Originally Posted by vishaljawahar

Intrigued to know what it is!

So basically one member very aptly described the reason and difference in why the older cars were better at shock absorption and still stable on the highway, and atleast in theory, it made a little sense to me. He might be wrong, I might be wrongly agreeing to it. After all the discussion on the forum regarding the shocks, one observation even I made that if we remove the rebound and damping aside, one major difference was in the rear suspension, wherein it was too soft compared to the older cars. The front, even with the local gabriel shocks was still quite stiff in compression. Body weight hand press test method. Before anyone comments, I weigh a good 100 kgs and am able to exert significant pressure on individual corners of the car.

The valving optimization in the local shocks is definitely poor, no debate over there, but considering only the stiffness while compression, its the rear that actually got too soft over time and not the front. So that member claimed that only changing the rear to stiffer shocks and/or springs and shocks both would alone constitute a major percentage of overall improvement in the stability and cornering abilities of the car.

Apart from the above, the earlier generations shocks had, and which every road car shock should have is not the same compression and rebound valving, but a softer compression and slow (stiff) rebound. This coupled with stiffer springs gives a balanced ride of high speed stability on smooth roads as well as good shock absorption over rough roads at higher speeds, but might tend to feel a little rigid at lower speeds. Normally higher end shocks have multiple valving, fast compression, slow compression, slow rebound, fast rebound for a different behaviour of the shocks in various types of environments which combines to give the driver the best of both worlds.

Long story short, I'll first change the rear shocks to the stiffer Sachs I've imported, then observe the difference in drive quality over a few days in different environments. After that, will change the fronts too, to now judge the cumulative and relative improvement. This will help decide how necessary it'd be in the future to use both shocks from Sachs or any aftermarket, or only the rear ones would be sufficient. I want to do this because after import duty and all, it makes a huge difference in cost as well as will improve my overall understanding of suspension setup and its effects to the dynamics of the car.

After having completed the above, will change the Anti Roll bar link rods to the earlier version to determine how much difference they're actually making by themselves, or not making to the dynamics and if indeed mystic claims by some members on the forum carry any weight. Some of them go so far as to say that just changing the Anti Roll Bar link rods to the first generation variation suddenly improved the driving line holding capability and steering precision so much that suddenly the car felt like driving on a rail track. It did feel like this with the 2011 cars, but I am seriously not able to align myself with the fact that just changing the anti roll bar link rods would make so much difference. The company wouldnt ruin their reputation for awesome driving dynamics by petty cost cutting over a link rod. I doubt that even after doing all of the above, I still might not be able to restore the nostalgic drive feel of the older cars, because VW has made changes on an overall level and in every aspect to reduce costs. Even the chassis stiffness has reduced (Accepted by ASC too) as a result of cost cutting measures when localizing the production.

[rana_kirti]

hi fellow owners,

recently been hearing some grinding noises when applying brakes. haven't been to service center yet. sharing some pics i clicked. kindly advice. thank you.