[govigov]

130k kms came up late last week and the car headed to service. I had slowly acquired the parts for the service since July 2022. Having a parts manual helped. With the rear suspension replaced in the previous service, the car had stopped wandering around in the expansion joints of the over bridges. So, this time, it was the time for the front shocks. 130K kms I felt was a good time to replace the front shocks, considering the pathetic condition in which the rear shocks were during the 120K service.

Parts acquired in July:
Front disc
front suspension and all its parts
rear parking sensor

Cost about 10,500 in all.

I was not sure if it is placebo or not, but the front had a bit of bob and nod at times which I was not comfortable with.

Come Nov-Dec time frame, post a calicut trip, the front strut started making the classic link rod sounds. kat kat over uneven roads. Dr.N had just given the links to his upgraded Monroe link rods and I just ordered a set for me as well. In one of the coimbatore trips went to shell and got a can of 5w30 at a premium price that I later regretted.

By Jan mid, the classic glow plug warnings started and I also noticed a leak from the EGR area.




I went in person to book the service yesterday and then today morning headed over to nexa service center with a boot full of parts.



Reached around 10.30 and was promptly attended. Requested jobs:
front suspension
link rod replacements
front brake disc
front brake pads
EGR cleaning
Intercooler cleaning
WA /WB as the link rods / suspensions are getting changed.

I was at the service center till about lunch and then returned home. The SA did a great job and had whatsapped me the below pics.




The total at the service station came at 10450.

Overall I am satisfied.

[Eddy]

Originally Posted by govigov

By Jan mid, the classic glow plug warnings started and I also noticed a leak from the EGR area.

- How was the EGR leak taken care of?
- And the glow plug warning? I had replaced one glow plug about some time back, but the error has returned.
- Have you gotten your timing chain replaced too?

I am also seeing an intermittent "Clean Parking Sensors" message on my MID.

[govigov]

Originally Posted by Eddy

- How was the EGR leak taken care of?
- And the glow plug warning? I had replaced one glow plug about some time back, but the error has returned.
- Have you gotten your timing chain replaced too?

I am also seeing an intermittent "Clean Parking Sensors" message on my MID.

1. EGR assembly was removed which contained the solenoid. The solenoid was then removed from the assembly. All the metal parts were taken to a dedicated parts washer and cleaned using (assumed) degreaser. There were some hose clips and some small hoses that were replaced. The EGR was chocked full of carbon.
2. The glowplug error was for the glowplug in cylinder 4. Got that replaced. Since I live in a tropical area, where the coldest it ever gets is low 20s. I am not too bothered. But, since it has failed for Cylinder 4, I know that it is bound to fail for other cylinders too. I have planned for this, and know that in the next 1 year other 3 glowplug will fail too.
3. Till now, there is no tell tale 'bell-ringing' sound which points to a timing chain replacement. As far as I am aware no one has yet done a timing chain replacement on the s-cross. I have not decided on how to proceed and when to plan for this. If other bhp-ians can advice it would be great.
4. I usually got clean parking sensors before the sensor actually went kaput. I have narrowed it down to the way in which I take my 2 wheeler out, it sometime fowls with the rear bumper and that might have caused the premature failure of this part. As far as I remember it is about 600 and is just a plug and play as the part has a connector built-in.

[ShubhankarS]

Originally Posted by greatmana2000

While I agree comparison should always be with the cars in the same league , I see no reason why we should not compare an apple to an orange if we are getting the apple at a lower price point than the orange . I never said that the S-cross was bad . I was just pointing out that the S-cross is not so perfect and does have a lot of short comings which I have pointed out .With regard to the maximum speed of 100 on highways , what I meant was for a better built car a higher speed is much safer than a car which is built to price . A BMW at 100 km/hr would definitely be safer to drive than an alto at 100 km /hr .



Peak torque is ambiguous . The hyundai /VW have a more flatter curve than the 1.6 and trust me , it really helps in the overall characteristics /drive-ability of the car . A vento with 250NM or a creta with 250NM torque is much more relaxing to drive than a 320Nm S-cross .You do not need 6 gears . You just need 5 gears if the torque is flatter . You do not need to frequently shift gears to keep the car in the power band . At least that is what I think it is .Peak torque depends on a no. of parameters . I think the manufacturers have found an easy way to claim /advertise about how powerful their engines are . To point out the obvious the 1.6 makes peak torque at 1700-2000 Rpm . After that the torque drops . Looking at the graph that you have posted it is like someone throwing a stone up in the air and the stone falling down . Beyond 2500 RPM there is not much power left . Could you try to get the hyundai 1.6 engine , VW 1.6 engine graph and the Renault 1.5 250 NM engine graphs ? A comparison should put to rest as to which engine has a flatter torque curve .

My older elantra with 250NM torque is infinitely more driveable , more relaxing . Blame it on the 2.0 liter engine . The torque curve is a lot flatter and power delivery is much much better .

Bro I mostly agree with your points, because I feel the same. The 1.6 MJD in the Scross is a great torquey engine, with some caveats. Power-band is pretty damn narrow, which makes you keep working the gears, this is especially evident in hill roads, oh boy was it a task to drive the 1.6 Scross during my Kasauli trip lol. Also the way the torque drops make you feel that the car is slowing down, while it's still accelerating like hell.

What I enjoy about this engine is how easily it reaches triple-digit speeds in higher gears and the way it pulls between 1600-3000 RPM, though it still pulls well till like 3700 RPM.

The 1.6 MJD is by no means the cream-of-the-crop of sub 2 litre diesel engines, and shouldn't be seen as one. What it is, is a very capable, torquey diesel engine made for enthusiastic highway drives, and once you adapt to keep it inside its power-band, it's actually pretty damn potent for a car like Scross.

If only it holds the monstrous 320NM of torque till say 1800-2500 RPM, it will make a big difference, but still what it actually is, is still something to be really proud of.

[kit_dennis]

Second clutch assembly replacement for 1.6 S-cross at 134k.

The first clutch replacement was at 84k. Within the next 50K kilometres, it had to replaced again.
The issue was same as the first time. Clutch getting floored and not coming up. And both times there were no prior gear slotting problems.
And unlike the first time, where 80% of the driving was within Bangalore city, the second time, 60% were highway drives.
Wondering if its my driving that is the culprit.

Before S-cross, i had a Swift VDI which i had kept for 137k kilometres and the clutch was replaced once at 94k.

Attaching the first(at Mandovi Motors) and second clutch(at Tweak7) replacement bills for the S-cross.

[lamborghini]

Originally Posted by kit_dennis

And unlike the first time, where 80% of the driving was within Bangalore city, the second time, 60% were highway drives.
Wondering if its my driving that is the culprit.

The first clutch replacement is totally understandable at 80+Kkms, however the second was way too early.
For the clutch pedal getting floored, several 1.6 owners have faced the issue and it has boiled down to a slave cylinder or joint leakage resulting in the clutch fluid leaking out.
I've had this issue pop up twice on our S Cross and the above fixes got the work done without having to carry out a clutch overhaul.

Also interesting to note the Flywheel wasn't changed. If there was wear noticed in the Flywheel, it would have been suggested to get it done at the second change so as to avoid having to open up the entire clutch again - unnecessary labour costs.

[kit_dennis]

Originally Posted by lamborghini

For the clutch pedal getting floored, several 1.6 owners have faced the issue and it has boiled down to a slave cylinder or joint leakage resulting in the clutch fluid leaking out.

This time the issue started when i was trying to takeout the car in the morning to office. I called Tweak7, explained the problem through phone, one guy came with brake fluid, poured the entire bottle as he said the fluid was empty. The clutch started working, he took the car to the workshop. Upon receiving the car, the service advisor said it most likely a slave cylinder issue and they will check it.
Later i got a call from them saying, save cylinder is fine, now they have to open up the clutch assembly and check what could be the issue. After some time, another call and they said, the bearing was leaking the fluid and it has spread and the entire assembly has to be replaced.

Note that there were no leakage signs under the car where i had parked.

[CrossLife]

Originally Posted by kit_dennis

Second clutch assembly replacement for 1.6 S-cross at 134k.

At this mileage you should have changed the flywheel too.

[Debasish M]

There have been some rather puzzling views on tyres on S-cross as some of the views expressed neither align with my experience nor with the literature on tyres.

1. I carried on with my stock JK for about 65k kms and replaced (with possibly another 10k left on them - I know it is amazing!!!) with Yokohama Blue Earth (1 no.); Yoko Earth (1 one no.) - both of 205/65 spec instead of the usual 60 and 2 nos. Goodyear. 205/60

2. I think I experimented with the tyre dimensions a bit after doing some detailed reading. Hoping to reap the benefits of a taller ride!

3. My reading is now 103 k and both Yokos have gone bald ... tut tut ... them Beatles arent gonna like it!!!!

The Goodyears hold out, but not for long. Yes, the drive quality did improve a wee bit, but that is not worth the additional tyre cost. And while I wasn’t very disciplined with my measurements, the fuel efficiency did go down from the JK stock set.

This I cant put down as a done deal, simply because there may have been too many variables, although this is a single driver machine and driven well (I hope) primarily because the car is getting older too, now at 7 plus years.

My question is are we blindly recommending Yokos and others because they arent Indian products, because surely they have been thrashed in performance terms by the JKs. I am considering going back to those, but waiting for advice. I did also contemplate remaps, but have held back as Indian highways are getting notorious re: speed cameras.

Another question if I may: Any suspension solutions? My car does feel a lot stiffer.

I have just gone in for a full radiator assembly, intercooler and related accessory overhaul post which I am seeing some wild variance in my fuel efficiency, both up and down. Once stabilised, I will update in this forum.

Looking forward to some inputs.

[narayans80]

Originally Posted by Debasish M

My question is are we blindly recommending Yokos and others because they arent Indian products, cos surely they have been thrashed in performance terms by the JKs.

Simply put JKs are worst tyres money can buy. OEMs kit them in your new car because they are cheap. I've experienced UX Royales across 2 cars, they are loud and are not grippier either. They are hard compound, so tend to last long. Rishi's stock Elanzo lasted 97K.

Who is blindly recommending Yoko? Among S-Cross owners I've seen recommendations for Continental UC6, MRF Perfinza, Michelin P4ST apart from the BluEarth. I've used the UC6 for 27K before I sold the car, and there was a world of difference against the JK, that my not-so automotive inclined wife was able to spot.

I would recommend to have replace all 4 tyres with the same brand and type so they don't wear uneven.

[bharathdonti]

I replaced my stock JK tyres at 58000km, with Michelin P4ST in the size of 205/65, instead of the stock size of 205/60. The JKs would have lasted for another 20,000km but the ride quality was deteriorating and as soon as I replaced with P4ST, it made a world of difference and I regret not replacing them earlier.

Later on, at 98000km, I decided to change the tyres to UC6 and I must say that they feel even better than the Primacy. Currently, my odometer reads at 1,10,000km.

Before making my decision on which tyres to choose, I went through this thread and found that the top two suggestions were Michelin Primacy 4ST and UC6.

[puri.sarang]

Originally Posted by Rahulbarik

I recently ordered gear knob from Boodmo for my scross 1.6.

Hi. Can you please share the link for the same? I busted mine and service center is quoting 6k.

[sinharishi]

6.6 years with almost 193K on the odo, sold her to Cars24.

[narayans80]

Originally Posted by sinharishi

6.6 years with almost 193K on the odo, sold her to Cars24

Sad to see your S-Cross go man. You used to be the reference for services on my (former) 1.3.

Do you have a replacement already in line ?

[car-dent]

Originally Posted by sinharishi

6.6 years with almost 193K on the odo, sold her to Cars24.

Attachment 2441510

Attachment 2441511

How much did you get for it?