[somersault]

Originally Posted by skoda0505

So, finally we took delivery of our Lava Blue Kodiaq last week.



Some questions for other fellow buyers:

- I dont see the ventilated seats being very effective. Is it the same for everyone else as well?

Congratulations on your purchase. You will cherish this decision for long. Cooled seats (not ventilated) are working fine in my case. Many members have mentioned that they are not very effective. However, I would suggest changing the AC profile setting to high and then try out.

Originally Posted by skoda0505

- I got 2 years SMP complimentary with the purchase. I wanted to buy the SMP for 3rd and 4th year but the service centre is telling me that the 2 year complimentary SMP works in a different way from the 4 year paid SMP in couple of ways. First, the 2 year SMP covers only the 2nd and 3rd year service and not the 1st and 2nd year service.

You will receive the SMP certificate from the dealer and it will have an expiry date which will be 2 years from your purchase. You can do your first and 2nd service through that. The covers under 2 years SMP and 4 years SMP are different. Please check this link. I would suggest use the 2 years SMP to do the first 2 services and buy 3rd and 4th as separate (only if you need it).

https://www.skoda-auto.co.in/owners-...rcare-campaign

[kurups]

Originally Posted by SilverSmoke

These are recommended at 60K KMs in Kodiaq TSI - they were done now as they were part of SMP @ 4th service. If they hadn't done now, I would have to pay out for them at 60K KMs. It's 4th service or 60K KMs - whichever is earlier.

V belt and SparkPlug replacement - do we have the SMP fine print where it is mentioned that this will be replaced on 4th service/60k kms.

To my knowledge the SMP fine print lists down all these parts as covered under SMP Standard Package, but it also says that :- "Specified wear and tear parts wherever applicable will be replaced, if required, based on technical evaluation."

The default brochure of SMP lists down all the spares are covered irrespective of the year of service, but it gets replaced only if required (again irrespective of the year)- basis the service engineers evaluation.

This basically means, if the service guys feels that the part does not need a replacement it might not get replaced in any of the 4 years under the SMP.

[SilverSmoke]

Originally Posted by kurups

This basically means, if the service guys feels that the part does not need a replacement it might not get replaced in any of the 4 years under the SMP.

Right, they were replaced as they were covered - as goodwill gesture - after that 4 year SMP was expiring, so they did it.

One can change these only once in SMP - that too till 4th service only - after that it's not covered - even in 2 year SMP extension - which I took.

[kurups]

Skoda recommends 39 psi for the front tyres and 45 for the rear, when there are 5 adults + luggage for the Kodiaq. Has anyone tried these pressures suggested by Skoda for regular commute. So far I have never crossed 40 psi rear & 37 psi for the front even with fully loaded vehicle and that itself made the ride bumpy on Bangalore roads. Recently drove Bangalore - Kerala with 4 adults, 3 kids and luggage with 36.5 psi on front tyres and 37.5 for the rear. Ride was comfy, but I felt there was slight vibrations at speeds where the Kodiaq starts the non -stop ping. Planning to take the TN roads for the return travel - Trivandrum - Bangalore trip. Anyone who has traveled with the Kodiaq filled with people & luggage - Any suggestions on tyre pressures? Apart from XP95 and regular service, this is one variable that keeps intriguing as the passenger list varies.

[phi]

A quick question on Start-Stop system. Do you all keep it turned on all the time? I have been running with start-stop turned on, but increasingly, I have been feeling that the system is too aggressive, and is thinking of turning it off, except when I am anticipating longer idling periods.

Over the last year of ownership, I have also noticed a small bug. The car comes to a stop after a long drive and the start-stop system stops the engine. Without thinking (or thinking that the car is off), once in a while, I press the ignition button to start the engine again instead of using the steering or accelerator. This causes the system to turn off, and then I have to use the ignition button again to start the car. At that point, the emission system warning light appears along with the red hazard warning, and the car does not start. In a couple of minutes, the errors go away and I can start the car again. This has happened 3-4 times over the last year. I asked the service center to check for any faults when I went there later, but nothing comes up in their scans.

I guess re-engaging ignition quickly after the auto stop is causing some timing issue between ECM and sensors.

Originally Posted by kurups

Any suggestions on tyre pressures?

I tried to diligently stick to the recommendations for the first few months, and it was really hard to manage, even with a great air pump that I can use any time. Now, I go with the following settings:

For highways:
- just me alone or with one passenger: 35-36 on all wheels
- 5 passengers with/without luggage: 37-38 on all wheels, or 37 in front and 38 in rear.
- all 7 seats loaded (5 adults + 2 kids + luggage): 39 front and 41 rear.

Beyond these values, the ride gets bumpy. On TN highways, I cruise at 100-110 whenever I can, getting to 120+ only rarely, and that too for short stretches to get away from large groups of vehicles going at speed. I am especially careful about bumpiness in the rear since my daughter usually sits there and gets motion-sick easily.

If I expect passenger count to vary (people getting on and off on a wedding trip, for instance), I just keep the pressure at 37-38 and forget about ride comfort or handling. :-)

For bad roads (not off-road, just when I know that road quality is inconsistent most of the time, like in cities/suburbs), I reduce the pressures by 1 psi, never going below 35psi. For mini-offroad conditions (almost non-existent roads in high-range) at low speeds, I have gone as low as 33-34psi with 2-4 people.

[somersault]

Originally Posted by kurups

Anyone who has traveled with the Kodiaq filled with people & luggage - Any suggestions on tyre pressures?

I have run the vehicle only 4000 KM so far but I have tried multiple combinations. For city ride, I am keeping it 36 in all tyres and drive in the Normal mode when speed is 40+ KM or shift to Comfort Mode if the speed is lesser. I am in Mumbai and Mumbai roads are generally concrete.

For highway ride with 5 people or more, I am keeping 39 and 42 for front and rear. However one important change I am doing recently and found it useful was to go to Individual mode and select the DCC to sport and then let the highway drive in the Individual mode.

With this suspension tightening, the bumps and body roll has reduced considerable at high speeds. When moving to low speed on highway due to traffic or pot holes, I simply shift to Normal mode, or if very bad roads then comfort mode.

[sarathlal]

Originally Posted by kurups

Planning to take the TN roads for the return travel - Trivandrum - Bangalore trip. Anyone who has traveled with the Kodiaq filled with people & luggage - Any suggestions on tyre pressures? Apart from XP95 and regular service, this is one variable that keeps intriguing as the passenger list varies.

So far, i had always kept the pressure at 36, for normal daily office drives as well as highway runs with family (multiple times on the above mentioned Tvm-Bangalore). Felt the ride to be very comfortable so did not think of changing it.

Originally Posted by phi

A quick question on Start-Stop system. Do you all keep it turned on all the time?

This and the air circulation always defaulting to outside mode are two of the biggest niggles I have with the Kodiaq. They should have kept it configurable and allowed us to turn off by default.

To your question, yes I do turn off the Start/Stop system every single time I start the trip. I normally give a minute for the engine to reach its optimal temperature before driving away, so this thing just irritates by swithing itself off by the time I reach the gate and pause to look for vehicles before entering the main road.
(By the way, the new Glanza also behaves this way, only difference is the vehicle turning On and Off is much more perceivable in the Glanza)

[SilverSmoke]

Went to an altitude of 2400 metres & got some subzero temperatures of northern winter.


For the first time, I witnessed outside temperature warning. It first came up at 4°C, then everytime ignition was switched on for all temperatures below that. Ignition was never a problem - started in one go everytime - just waited for 5 minutes for engine to be warmed up before taking load.



Also, I am extremely pleased the way Kodiaq sticks to the road - especially while taking corners at mountain terrains. One wrong flick, & you are down into the chasm. Steering & braking are so precise - you can literally feel what's going on beneath the wheels with good feedback. Even being a large car, it goes exactly where you point it to be with minimal body roll in normal mode. MRF Markus too provide excellent dry grip levels - with 55 profile, tyre side roll is well contained. With a long trip in treacherous terrain, no punctures / bursts - was expecting atleast one, that too when tyres are nearing their end of life. Performed well in heavy rain with hailstorm too.

[phi]

Originally Posted by sarathlal

This and the air circulation always defaulting to outside mode are two of the biggest niggles I have with the Kodiaq. They should have kept it configurable and allowed us to turn off by default.

To your question, yes I do turn off the Start/Stop system every single time I start the trip. I normally give a minute for the engine to reach its optimal temperature before driving away, so this thing just irritates by swithing itself off by the time I reach the gate and pause to look for vehicles before entering the main road.

Switching to air re-circulation was already in my pre-drive routine. Added switching off Start-Stop system too now. On my drive from Chennai to Cochin, there was no drop in fuel efficiency, given that I was mostly cruising on the highway. And it definitely felt better to not have the AC switch off on every stop at a signal or toll booth. I did manually turn on Start-Stop on two instances where I had to idle for more than 60 seconds with people inside, and it was convenient to do that instead of turning off the car completely.

[sagargupta]

Got my new Kodiaq today (yay!), bought during the online sale last month (VIN 23, MY 24). But, as luck would have it, my rear right tyre got flat within 1km after I came out of showroom (did not even reach home). I heard a thud sound, stopped on the side of the road and saw the tyre fully flat (MRF Markus) . Called the dealer, they asked to call the Skoda RSA. I called the RSA and they did not even have my details registered as it was a new car and took 30 minutes to register my car. Meanwhile, I called the dealer again. As the dealer workshop was closed today, the salesman came with another staff and changed the flat tyre with spare wheel. The MRF Markus tire had a huge cut right in the middle of the treads so it has to be replaced. Salesman asked me to go to nearest MRF dealer to file a claim.

I went to the MRF dealer and they said it looks like a physical damage and not a manufacturing defect and the chances of passing a claim are negligible. He filled up the claim form though and asked me for wait for 4-5 days before hearing back. He told me I can get a new tyre replaced by paying now and later get a refund if claim gets approved.

I feel it's extremely unlikely and too much coincidence that a brand new tyre got cut as soon as the car came out of showroom.

What is the best way to approach this situation and who seems to be responsible (dealer, MRF or myself?)

Thanks.

[Guna]

Originally Posted by sagargupta

I feel it's extremely unlikely and too much coincidence that a brand new tyre got cut as soon as the car came out of showroom.

What is the best way to approach this situation and who seems to be responsible (dealer, MRF or myself?)

Thanks

Cost of single MRF tyre may not be worth the effort, but if you really want to fight the case/prove it, this may be one option:

• Using the Google map timeline/history, establish that the road you were driving
• If that road is is in good condition, put forward an argument that there is nothing to cut the middle of the tyre on that section (but they can still counter argue saying there could be some sharp debris fallen on the road from some tractor/truck)

[SilverSmoke]

Originally Posted by sagargupta

I feel it's extremely unlikely and too much coincidence that a brand new tyre got cut as soon as the car came out of showroom.

The defect's magnitude correlates with a sufficiently large object on the road - unlikely it's not seen by you - especially when our eyes are peeled driving brand new vehicle out of showroom.

To me, it's a manufacturing defect or a repaired defect pass out to you from the dealer itself - which eventually gave away.

[somersault]

Originally Posted by sagargupta

Got my new Kodiaq today (yay!), bought during the online sale last month (VIN 23, MY 24).

Congratulations on the new car! You will love driving it.

Originally Posted by sagargupta

I feel it's extremely unlikely and too much coincidence that a brand new tyre got cut as soon as the car came out of showroom.

Tyre is a consumable and wear and tear item. It is bound to have some degradation. However in this case, it happened only within 1 KM of taking the delivery and whatever 30-40KM of drive happened before it. I believe it is the case of issue with Tyre manufacturer and I will submit the claim form with MRF with following details. (Total running of the car, manufacturing date, Tyre tread size at the current level when the issue happened, if any object insertion marks on the tyre etc.)

However, given the apathy of the total consumer protection scenario, I am doubtful if anything can come out of this. I would just submit the claim form, have my tyre replaced by my own funds initially to start driving and then patiently just wait for response from MRF. The cost of the constant mental fight and pressure to get the replacement from MRF is far worse than the driving pleasure you will get out of buying a brand new tyre from your pocket. Just enjoy and cherish the vehicle.

My 2 cents.

[sagargupta]

Originally Posted by somersault

Congratulations on the new car! You will love driving it.

Thank you for all the guidance. I was going to proceed in the suggested manner but thought of giving dealership one more attempt. To my surprise, they asked me to get the tyre and the car to the showroom and assured me that they will do their best to replace the tyre for free. After a couple of hours, the service workshop GM called me that they have agreed to replace all four MRF Marcus tyres (which were made in 2023), with new Goodyear tyres from 2024 as they don't want a similar issue going forward. I was pleasantly surprised and said okay. They kept the car for a day as they arranged for the tyres and I received my car back today with four new Goodyear Efficient Grip tyres (similar pricing as MRF Marcus and Week 23 Year 24 make). Super happy with the outcome and dealerships ownership of the issue.

[₹itzylove]

Has anyone who booked a VIN23 MY24 model received their Registration Copy? I booked a VIN23 MY24 model during the November offer and got my car delivered on 5th Dec'24. However, I decided to wait for a particular number and finally took delivery after registration on 20th Dec'24.

During the delivery, the insurance document mentioned the manufacturing year as 2023. I immediately questioned the difference between MY23 and MY24, but the Sales Executive didn't have a clear answer. I received my registration copy today, which states August 2023 as the manufacturing month (as per the VIN, which I decoded as soon as I got it after booking online).

So, I'm really confused. Since the assembly happened in India in 2024 and Skoda clearly mentioned MY2024, the RC should mention 2024, right? Can someone help me clarify this? I raised this issue with the Sales GM of the dealership, and he said he would check on the other cars that were booked during the online offer and get back to me. My question to him was: what's the difference between MY23 and MY24?

To others who booked during this offer—can you check your RC and confirm please?