[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by RandomUsername

Ok Sir! We are also looking forward to meeting you. Yesterday we took the car on a 40km test drive in heavy traffic. The car ran very well. The temperature gauge was showing around 80 degrees most of the time. Reached 85 sometimes when traffic was slow, but it would drop down instantly when the car got moving again. Overall I am quite confident about driving the car long distance

Dear Randomusername - that's good! Ensure reliability of mechanical aggregates and you should be fine. When are you leaving for Gujarat? I wish I could come! .

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[RandomUsername]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Randomusername - that's good! Ensure reliability of mechanical aggregates and you should be fine. When are you leaving for Gujarat? I wish I could come! .

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Leaving on the 19th morning. Day after tomorrow

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Gowtham - On the main jet, put 97.5, drive for at least 500 kms to establish its baseline on kmpl and tailpipe color, based on which we will take a decision whether to open the inlet manifold breather because you are running on MCS1061 which is an internal vent carburettor.

OK Sir, switching the jet to 97.5 today. Planning a drive to Chikmagalur and back end starting next weekend

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

On headlights, are you going to fit the P45t Lucas TVS or the old American Lucas TVS? Use Maruti 800 handbrake cable mounting clips to hold the wiring harness in place. Please ensure perfect wiring, for which you should get a "WOW"!

Sir planning to use the American type as these are the only type I could find.

I have got a pair of BOSCH 100/90 bulbs for this sealed beam. They did the duty on Morris too.

I am looking out for the P45T and hopefully will find a pair.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Spray the under-chassis with diesel (don't worry, nothing will happen), then wash with water and then lubricate the joints properly with chassis grease. Clean the spiders without dismantling anything, spray oil on them with oil can.

I will get this done. The greasing done last time might not have been well done.

I identified one more squeak source - rear seat is not sitting on the pin correctly. Need to check and mount correctly. The speedo console was also squeaking and has been tightened.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Ensure that the front wheel bearing pre-load is OK, then only check camber and caster. Camber is -25 minutes to +15 minutes and caster is +30 minutes to + 1degree 30 minutes in un-laden condition with 25/27 psi tire pressure. If reading is within this value, please leave it alone and set only toe, that too only if required. If at all you have to touch the shims, by all means do so, but do it sensibly. Don't let any grease monkey touch your car.

OK Sir, noted. There is no lateral play on front wheels after 1500 km, so I feel preload must be okay. I will adjust anyway because its easy and I like doing it

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

DO NOT use MPFI suitable electronic fuel pump, the needle valve will not take the pressure, fuel will overflow. Also remember that you do not have orifice controlled fuel return line. Use UCAL FACET electronic fuel pump with the Maruti van fuel filter. Free head delivery specification is 980 cc/minute. When you install the pump below the spare wheel, remove the small plastic pipe from the fuel tank outlet to main metallic fuel pipe and throw it out. It is now 25 years old, it would have become hard and brittle. Use all new pipes only.

Almost one liter per min! Sir what is the specification for the mechanical pump? I have seen that the mechanical pump on my car will fill up 250-300 ml in about 10 seconds.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

I have made custom carpets for all my cars. Thick black material is available in Mumbai, it drapes very nicely. I don't know its name or specification. You will need a passionate seat-wallah to do a good job, normal guy will go mad so don't waste your time! Remember, do not cover the insides of the running boards, the thing will just come out. Nicely applied black paint is good enough.

I will check materials in JC road today. I will try to get something that's close to OE carpet. The door sills will be left open. I don't want moisture to get trapped and start rust again. The holes where screws were fastened, planning to use silicone to plug them off, so water wont enter when I wash the car.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Now I am further raising the bar - there is just no end to what all you can do. See the picture of the engine compartment of my LHD. See the steering strut support, I have provided a double pillar support to the drop-arm cantilever. Do it if you want, it helps in snap-shot handling by retaining the correct relative positions of the aggregates. I had this in my rally car also. This is the reason of the problem that you got, when you hit that pothole at 70kmph! .

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Understood. I will keep this in mind Sir. Nice weekend to work on the car, as weather is cool

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by autocrat

Switching the jet to 97.5 today. Planning a drive to Chikmagalur and back. Planning to use the American type as these are the only type I could find. I have got a pair of BOSCH 100/90 bulbs for this sealed beam. One more squeak source, the rear seat is not sitting on the pin correctly. Need to check and mount correctly.

Dear Gowtham - give me the 97.5 result as soon as you get it. American beam is OK, not as good as the P45t. Cut small rubber pieces from an old tube, cut holes in their center and put them on the pins before fitting the rear seat, the noise will disappear.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Gowtham - give me the 97.5 result as soon as you get it. American beam is OK, not as good as the P45t. Cut small rubber pieces from an old tube, cut holes in their center and put them on the pins before fitting the rear seat, the noise will disappear.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Dear Sir,

One question: Is it safe to use 13" tubes on 14" rims? I was told Padmini tyre size tubes are not available, using 14" tubes made for wider tyres will fold inside the tyres, and its alright to use 13" tubes. Is this safe?

Courtesy BHPian Srinand:


The hubcaps appear to be made from stainless steel!

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by autocrat

1. Is it safe to use 13" tubes on 14" rims? 2. The hubcaps appear to be made from stainless steel!

Dear Gowtham - 1. It is not safe. It is also technically incorrect. Why are you worried? . 2. Yes, these are stainless steel wheel caps, they seem to be original but I can't say definitely as the PAL mark is a little different. They will fit the wheel rims of your car. Ambassador wheel caps look very nice on Padmini, see if you can buy a set in stainless steel (without the star mark on it), if yes, get one set for me also.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Gowtham - 1. It is not safe. It is also technically incorrect. Why are you worried? . 2. Yes, these are stainless steel wheel caps, they seem to be original but I can't say definitely as the PAL mark is a little different. They will fit the wheel rims of your car. Ambassador wheel caps look very nice on Padmini, see if you can buy a set in stainless steel (without the star mark on it), if yes, get one set for me also.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Sir rear right tube losing air, the nearby puncture guy offered to change the tube but to 13". Will replace valve pin and see if it holds.

I have a set of Amby caps now, but they are not stainless steel and they are rusting in just couple of months. Let me see if I can get a couple of sets of stainless steel ones.

[DudeWithaFiat]

Hello Everyone,

So today, I noticed the battery is not getting charged and upon digging, I found the wire from ammeter has gotten unplugged from the alternator. I can see the connector plug dangling behind the ammeter, I reached there and tried to feel the back of the alternator to see where it goes in, but couldn't feel anything. Does anyone have a picture of the back of the alternator (I think its Lucas) so that I can see the socket where the plug goes in? .

Or is it somewhere underneath the alternator than behind it?

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DudeWithaFiat

Hello Everyone,

So today, I noticed the battery is not getting charged and upon digging, I found the wire from ammeter has gotten unplugged from the alternator. I can see the connector plug dangling behind the ammeter, I reached there and tried to feel the back of the alternator to see where it goes in, but couldn't feel anything. Does anyone have a picture of the back of the alternator (I think its Lucas) so that I can see the socket where the plug goes in? .

Or is it somewhere underneath the alternator than behind it?

Dear Dude with a Fiat,

I don't have an answer to your question, but I have another question: If you have an alrernator, do you still need an ammeter?

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Dudewithafiat - hello to you. Please note that Lucas TVS SA15 alternator application on Padmini wiring harness does not call for ammeter. If you have an ammeter, please disconnect it, otherwise the system will not work properly. The alternator has three connectors, as follows: 1. Main M6*1.0 threaded connector. This must be connected directly to the battery positive terminal (means you can connect it to the positive terminal on the solenoid switch). 2. There are two lucar terminals at 90 degrees to each other. One of them is called "L" (lamp) and the other is called "IG" (ignition). Buy a Maruti 800 terminal block connecting at this location. It is readily available at any shop and costs around 50 rupees. It will come with two wires jutting out of it. Couple both the wires together and connect them to the wire coming from the charging circuit bulb. Please note that a lucas TVS SA15 alternator which works properly and which is driven from the crankshaft pulley by a Fenner 1020 or a Fenner 1000 belt adjusted properly will charge a semi-flat battery in around 20 minutes at 2000 engine rpm.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[Adivir]

Dear Behram Sir,
I have been following your posts since a long long time now. I have been trying to register in Team BHP and have finally got through today! Without sparing a moment, allow me to grab this opportunity to thank you for I have benefitted from your valuable advices on Fiat cars. I am a big fan of Fiat vehicles and proud owner of Premier Padmini (my Basanti on which I learnt how to drive) and Premier Padmini Safari, a rare classic car that my father bought in 1982. Around five years back, I got the cars repainted and restored. I understand, people have been wanting to have a look at the original Premier Padmini Safari. Here you go and please tell me what you think:

[Karthik1100]

Adivir, firstly, welcome to Team-bhp! We are happy to see another Classic Fiatian on-Board!

The Safari looks fantastic, the color looks pretty good, a rare one. Do post some pics of the Safari from rear and do you have any old pics? Also the pics of the other Fiat you have. I am asking too much eh!

BD Sir will be very happy to see your car. Hope to see you regularly here!

[1100D]

Originally Posted by Adivir

Dear Behram Sir,
original Premier Padmini Safari. Here you go and please tell me what you think:

Although its a nice looking Padmini you have there, I am sorry, but it doesn't look like a Safari, probably its a Sedan modified to look like an estate.

Safari has different rear door and also the rear section has a completely different shape.

[Karthik1100]

Here is a Original Safari.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/post-w...ml#post1442876

[Anwesh]

Here is a original first generation Safari built on President drive away chassis. This had the rear doors with the angular frame as shown in the pic above, but the tailgate was horizontal opening with hinges on rhs.

That said, I suspect that all Safaris sold new by dealers across the country may not have been built by Starline. If PAL was delivering chassis to the dealers, building the body at their local would have been a more viable proposal considering logistics and economics. So a dealer from Delhi may have used original President/Padmini rear doors while building a Safari at his end.

Somebody who was working with the sales department of PAL or with a dealer during 75/80 can throw light on this.

Regards,