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Old 12th September 2022, 12:12   #2386
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by unoczar View Post
Attachment 2357019

Hello team,
My plan is finalized with your inputs. Please wish me luck and let me know if I need to watch out for anything. One thing that worries me is that I'm due to cross Zoji La on Thursday. If there's any delay then I'll be stuck as it is closed on Friday. Shall I still keep to my plan or you suggest changes?

Thank you
May be our paths will cross. Hope you have a great trip.

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Originally Posted by Red Liner View Post
There is no separate permit for umlingla. The same online hanle permit works.
Is https://www.lahdclehpermit.in/register-as-domestic the site to get the online permit? Do you know if I need to take the permit for each person traveling with me? Is it enough to carry Aadhar Card and driver's license as ID proofs?

Below is my tentative itinerary for the Leh/Ladakh trip. We are 3 adults and all of us can take turns at driving (a lot of experience in driving on the highways).
Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide-itinerary.jpg
Would appreciate if any of you have any comments/suggestions.

I have not done any hotel bookings. Based on the recommendations given by TheCatalyst in an earlier post, have shortlisted some hotels. Looking for places with clean rooms & toilets, running hot water. Nothing really fancy. Recommendations from folks who have stayed at any of these places recently would be very helpful.
  1. Sonamarg
  2. Kargil
  3. Leh
  4. Turtuk
  5. Tangste
  6. Tso Moriri
  7. Srinagar

A few more questions:
  • Do credit cards work at most of the places in leh and other places like Tangste, Tso Moriri etc.?
  • How much cash should one carry for places where card/UPI payment will not work?
  • Did any of you rent an oxygen cylinder from Leh for emergencies? Any contacts and the cost per day?
  • I have taken Airtel and Jio postpaid connections (taken this week in Pune). Will these work in Kashmir, Leh/Ladakh?
  • Has anyone used laptops with regular HDD at Leh and other higher altitude places? I need a way to copy data from my dashcam SD card and not sure how to do that if laptops cannot operate reliably. I see this warning at Dell site that regular HDDs are not designed to work above 10000 feet.
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Old 12th September 2022, 12:37   #2387
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by pjbiju View Post
Is https://www.lahdclehpermit.in/register-as-domestic the site to get the online permit? Do you know if I need to take the permit for each person traveling with me? Is it enough to carry Aadhar Card and driver's license as ID proofs?
The URL is correct. And yes, everyone will have to take the permit. You can use the driving license. I wouldn't suggest giving the Aadhar card.


Quote:
A few more questions:[list][*]Do credit cards work at most of the places in leh and other places like Tangste, Tso Moriri etc.?
My fuel top ups were through cards in all places. Srinagar, Leh, Hunder, Karu. But for food, apart from Leh, we were using cash in most of the places.

Quote:
[*]How much cash should one carry for places where card/UPI payment will not work?
During my 15 day trip, we had withdrawn approximately 50K in total. Also, I wouldn't rely on UPI even though the network coverage is pretty good.

Quote:
[*]Did any of you rent an oxygen cylinder from Leh for emergencies? Any contacts and the cost per day?
We had picked up a small portable oxygen can from a medical store in Leh market. Cost me around 600-700 rs if I'm not wrong. But never had to use it.

Quote:
[*]I have taken Airtel and Jio postpaid connections (taken this week in Pune). Will these work in Kashmir, Leh/Ladakh?
Yes, both the postpaid sims should work. I had picked up an Airtel sim just a week before my trip and it worked flawlessly in most places except some parts of Pangong.

Hope this helps. Good luck with your trip.

Drive Safe,
R-Six
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Old 13th September 2022, 01:27   #2388
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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Originally Posted by pjbiju View Post

Recommendations from folks who have stayed at any of these places recently would be very helpful.
You are driving from Pune to Udaipur on first day. That'd quite a distance. You could consider Halol bypass road instead of Ahmedabad as that may save you an hour or so.

Also if you are already staying at Sonmarg, then Leh is directly doable even after stopping at Kargil for sight seeing. It's upto you.

We stayed at The Palace Ladakh hotel in Leh. Good location and rooms and the host was very helpful. They even had oxygen cylinders for rent. I think Rs. 1000 including deposit and 500 per day thereafter. I had carried those portable cans you get on Amazon, 4 of them. I had to use two of them as my partner developed a headache on the first day in Leh inspite of acclimatization. Do carry an oximeter with you. Usual readings will be between 85-90 initially. Anything below that you should rest and hydrate.

For transferring dashcam videos I used a portable card reader to copy directly to phone. I am sure HDDs would work just fine. Regarding cash, I carried about 30K, but most places take Gpay.

Have a safe trip. Enjoy!

Last edited by TheCatalyst : 13th September 2022 at 01:29. Reason: Content
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Old 13th September 2022, 12:43   #2389
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Dear T-BhpIans,
Wanted some advice on route planning. I am flying into Leh and then going ahead with this journey. I have two options - one with Pangyong stay and the other without. I am hearing a lot of AMS related stories at Pangyong. Not sure how much I need to be worried as we are travelling with a 9 year old kid.
Also doing Leh to Thang and back to Diskit - is it doable in one day?
From people who have been there, kindly suggest which one looks like a better option: I was keen on taking option 2 but maybe it will turn out too hectic.
I am reaching Leh on 24th September by flight. Entire trip will be in a Taxi.

Option 1:
24th Day 1: Leh -> Rest
25th Day 2: Leh Local - Magnetic hill, Gurudwara, Zanskar confluence, hall of fame memorial, Leh palace, Shanti Stupa

26th Day 3: Leh to Sumur
27th Day 4: Sumur to Siachen basecamp night halt at Sumur
28th Day 5: Sumur to Thang to Diskit (night halt)
29th Day 6: Diskit to Pangyong to Leh
30th Day 7: Additional Day at Leh
1st Day 8: return

Option 2:
24th Day 1: Leh -> Rest
25th Day 2: Leh Local - Magnetic hill, Gurudwara, Zanskar confluence, hall of fame memorial, Leh palace, Shanti Stupa

26th Day 3: Leh to Turtuk/Thang - Back to Diskit in evening
27th Day 4: Diskit to Siachen basecamp night halt at Sumur
28th Day 5: Sumur to Pangyong
29th Day 6: Pangyong to Hanle
30th Day 7: Hanle to Leh
1st Day 8: return

Many thanks in advance.
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Old 15th September 2022, 07:21   #2390
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

For those who are travelling between Jammu - Srinagar and has some spare time left, this can be worth a deviation to take, Chenab Railway Bridge.

https://twitter.com/RailMinIndia/sta...51712230854656
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Old 16th September 2022, 01:05   #2391
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by busydrive View Post
Dear T-BhpIans,
Wanted some advice on route planning. I am flying into Leh and then going ahead with this journey. I have two options - one with Pangyong stay and the other without.
To be honest, since you are traveling with a young kid, it's difficult to comment on your options. You may have to take a call in Diskit or Sumur depending on the situation. Sometimes travel fatigue can set in. On the other hand, kids are able to cope quite well with acclimatization than adults.

Some of the roads are really bad on these stretches and kids are vulnerable to motion sickness. So my advice would be to not rush from one place to another and enjoy the journey. Have a safe one.
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Old 17th September 2022, 21:42   #2392
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Dear BHPians,

Need advise on Leh itinerary planning for Delhi-Srinagar-Leh-Manali-Delhi in end Sep-early Oct in a hatchback. We will be 4 - me + wifey + kids aged 6 and 10.

Date Day Trip day From Destination
9/26/2022 Mon 1 Delhi Jalandhar
9/27/2022 Tue 2 Jalandhar Udhampur
9/28/2022 Wed 3 Udhampur Sonamarg
9/29/2022 Thu 4 Sonamarg Leh
9/30/2022 Fri 5 Leh Leh
10/1/2022 Sat 6 Leh Hunder
10/2/2022 Sun 7 Hunder Sumur (cover Siachen base camp or can skip)
10/3/2022 Mon 8 Sumur Merak
10/4/2022 Tue 9 Merak Hanle
10/5/2022 Wed 10 Hanle Karzok (cover Umlingla first)
10/6/2022 Thu 11 Karzok Jispa

1. From people who have been there, kindly suggest if I should consider any alterations in this. I have a thought that this seems hectic with kids, so I might have to drop few locations. Any advise is appreciated on what can be skipped for a 1st time visit to Leh.

2. For crossing Nagrota check post onward to Udhampur, is there a timing cut-off?

3. Also, from Hunder (Nubra filling station?) to Merak - Hanle - Umlingla - Karzok - Keylong, figure it is about 1050 km without fuel pump in between. Assuming 12 kmpl (is that achieveable in these conditions, normal city would be 14 or so, highway 16-18 kmpl), it would mean about 40-45 litres of fuel to carry in jerry cans (car capacity 45 ltr). Is this reasonable calculation? Would the pumps in Hunder be best place for this jerry can filling? Or is petrol easily available in black in these locations?

4. Lastly, return via Manali on 6-7 Oct should generally be ok or can expect road closure due to snow etc. by this time?

Thanks.
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Old 18th September 2022, 06:55   #2393
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainGuy View Post
Dear BHPians,

Need advise on Leh itinerary planning for Delhi-Srinagar-Leh-Manali-Delhi in end Sep-early Oct in a hatchback. We will be 4 - me + wifey + kids aged 6 and 10.

Date Day Trip day From Destination
9/26/2022 Mon 1 Delhi Jalandhar
9/27/2022 Tue 2 Jalandhar Udhampur
9/28/2022 Wed 3 Udhampur Sonamarg
9/29/2022 Thu 4 Sonamarg Leh
9/30/2022 Fri 5 Leh Leh
10/1/2022 Sat 6 Leh Hunder
10/2/2022 Sun 7 Hunder Sumur (cover Siachen base camp or can skip)
10/3/2022 Mon 8 Sumur Merak
10/4/2022 Tue 9 Merak Hanle
10/5/2022 Wed 10 Hanle Karzok (cover Umlingla first)
10/6/2022 Thu 11 Karzok Jispa

1. From people who have been there, kindly suggest if I should consider any alterations in this. I have a thought that this seems hectic with kids, so I might have to drop few locations. Any advise is appreciated on what can be skipped for a 1st time visit to Leh.

2. For crossing Nagrota check post onward to Udhampur, is there a timing cut-off?

3. Also, from Hunder (Nubra filling station?) to Merak - Hanle - Umlingla - Karzok - Keylong, figure it is about 1050 km without fuel pump in between. Assuming 12 kmpl (is that achieveable in these conditions, normal city would be 14 or so, highway 16-18 kmpl), it would mean about 40-45 litres of fuel to carry in jerry cans (car capacity 45 ltr). Is this reasonable calculation? Would the pumps in Hunder be best place for this jerry can filling? Or is petrol easily available in black in these locations?

4. Lastly, return via Manali on 6-7 Oct should generally be ok or can expect road closure due to snow etc. by this time?

Thanks.
Hi,
I'm gonna leave the tough things for the experts. I'm currently on my first trip to the Ladakh region and preparing to move from Sagar to Delhi.

Delhi to Jalandar? That's a six hour drive, I wouldn't stop here if I had no good reason to stop. I would rather continue to Jammu as Nagrota and Qazigund cut offs are 12 noon. As per reports the folks there are pretty strict about this.

First time in Leh and Pangong is not on your itinerary? That's probably a first. Your plan might need changes here.

Leh to Manali is most unpredictable. One cannot say what weather those passes will bring on.

All the best for your trip.
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Old 18th September 2022, 08:00   #2394
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by unoczar View Post
Hi,
I'm gonna leave the tough things for the experts. I'm currently on my first trip to the Ladakh region and preparing to move from Sagar to Delhi.

Delhi to Jalandar? That's a six hour drive, I wouldn't stop here if I had no good reason to stop. I would rather continue to Jammu as Nagrota and Qazigund cut offs are 12 noon. As per reports the folks there are pretty strict about this.

First time in Leh and Pangong is not on your itinerary? That's probably a first. Your plan might need changes here.

Leh to Manali is most unpredictable. One cannot say what weather those passes will bring on.

All the best for your trip.
Hi,

Thanks for your inputs.

I can only leave Delhi in afternoon on Day 1 so it is a choice b/w staying at Jalandhar overnight on that day or travel next morning to Jammu directly.

Nagrota 12 noon cutoff means one can't even go to Udhampur from Nagrota post that? That's just 1-2 hour drive.

Pangong is covered, with overnight stay at Merak.

Al the best for your trip as well.

Cheers.
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Old 18th September 2022, 12:46   #2395
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Mods please feel free to move it to proper section or thread
High altitude pulmonary edema and acute mountain sickness
Hi everyone, since this thread is about Leh Ladhak travel guide and need for discussion about High altitude pulmonary edema(HAPE) and acute mountain sickness is important. I am a neurologist(not pulmonologist) but have a fair idea about condition as I myself have experienced symptoms in Rohtang and have lost one of my junior doctor to this condition. Wanted to help fellow BHPians to understand this condition.
What are conditions associated with high altitude
HIGH ALTITUDE HEADACHE
ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS
HIGH ALTITUDE PULMONARY EDEMA (water or fluid in lungs)
HIGH ALTITUDE CEREBRAL EDEMA (swelling in the brain)
CHRONIC MOUNTAIN SICKNESS

What happens when we go to high altitude from planes
As we go high, barometric pressure drops and oxygen concentration decreases in air (air becomes thin)leading to hypoxia.
Upto 2500 ft to 10,000 ft is called as high altitude and above 18,000 ft is upper limit of permanent human inhabitation. Above20,000 ft life is endangered without supplemental oxygen.
So when we go above 2500 ft, our body will go into hypoxia(low oxygen) state and it starts adjusting to low oxygen. There are somethings called as carotid body(hypoxia sensing cells) which sends signal to lungs to increase respiratory rate, which helps us to breath fast and get more oxygen. if we give our body adequate time to adjust there will be increased haemoglobin(Hb) and it helps to get more oxygen to organs.
when we ascend rapidly body wont get time to adjust and low oxygen in lungs leads to damage to lung alveoli(gas exchange units) which will cause accumulation of water in lungs. once there is fluid in lungs, there will be drop in blood oxygen levels, breathing difficulty and eventually altered sensorium.
When it occurs
acute mountain sickness- occurs after 4 to 36 hours of altitude exposure. Usually person
gets headache (usually frontal), nausea, vomiting, irritability, malaise, insomnia, and poor climbing performance.
Symptoms frequently occur first or are more severe the morning after the first night at altitude.
HIGH ALTITUDE PULMONARY EDEMA - 0.5% to 2.0% of those rapidly ascending to altitude and seen in 75-80% in persons doing heavy physical work in first 3-4 days.
It will not develop in gradual ascent & on avoidance of physical exertion during first 3-4 days of exposure.
Mild to Moderate symptoms may be present initially as the individual becomes more breathless. Earliest indications are decreased exercise tolerance, person feels fatigue, weakness & exertional dyspnoea
A cough develops, which is initially dry, then with frothy white sputum, later becoming blood tinged.
Chest discomfort will start eventually
How to prevent Acute mountain sickness or Pulmonary edema
1) Key element is to limit the elevation change per day to less than 400 meters/day
Suggested rule is above 3000 meters(10,000 ft), ascent should be at a rate less than 300 meters (1000 ft) per day with a “rest” day (i.e., no additional ascent) every 3 days.
2)For direct travel to an altitude between 2500 meters and 3000 metres, stay at that altitude for two days and then ascend with a speed of 300 meter per day . If symptoms of AMS develop, go no higher. If they become severe, go down.
3) Do not over strain yourself, you may be physically very fit at planes but your lungs will not work 100% at high altitude. Do take rest, walk slow, do not run or tire out yourself.
4)Adequate hydration- drink water adequately, fast breathing will make you dehydrated and you will get headaches.
5) Keep pulse oxymeter- normal oxygen levels should be above 93%. below 89% requires some oxygen supplementation or medications
6) Keep portable oxygen cylinders for emergency
7)Preventive Medicine - Acetazolamide(Diamox) is advisable for anyone with a prior history of AMS or develops symptoms. Use of acetazolamide (250 mg at bedtime or 125 mg twice daily) for several days after arrival to high altitudes may improve symptoms and ability to function during the day.(Do not use Diamox if you have allergy to sulfa drugs in past
8) Corticosteroids (e.g., dexamethasone at a dose of 4 mg every 6 hours) is recommended as an alternative for individuals unable to take acetazolamide (e.g., those with sulfa allergy) (do not use without doctor consultation )
9) Best treatment for acute mountain sickness is decsend down to low altitude - if you have severe symptoms, persistent low oxygen decsend down and consult hospital immediately.
10) Dont be a hero, acute mountain sickness can worsen very fast. My junior doctor died of it even after all preventative measures.
11) HIGH-ALTITUDE HEADACHE - Exacerbated by insufficient hydration. Acetaminophen (dolo 500 or 650mg)or ibuprofen (400mg) with hydration will improve this symptom.

I don’t want to scare you, enjoy your travel without being breathless. I have travelled till Keylong in my last trip, planning to do a full trip soon.
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Old 20th September 2022, 19:09   #2396
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainGuy View Post
Hi,

Thanks for your inputs.

I can only leave Delhi in afternoon on Day 1 so it is a choice b/w staying at Jalandhar overnight on that day or travel next morning to Jammu directly.

Nagrota 12 noon cutoff means one can't even go to Udhampur from Nagrota post that? That's just 1-2 hour drive.

Pangong is covered, with overnight stay at Merak.

Al the best for your trip as well.

Cheers.
You can check https://twitter.com/Traffic_hqrs for the daily update on traffic movement in J&K. There is a lot of construction activity going on the Jammu Srinagar highway. This slows down the travel at many places.
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Old 25th September 2022, 06:37   #2397
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainGuy View Post
Hi,

Thanks for your inputs.

I can only leave Delhi in afternoon on Day 1 so it is a choice b/w staying at Jalandhar overnight on that day or travel next morning to Jammu directly.

Nagrota 12 noon cutoff means one can't even go to Udhampur from Nagrota post that? That's just 1-2 hour drive.

Pangong is covered, with overnight stay at Merak.

Al the best for your trip as well.

Cheers.
OK, I hope I'm not too late for this. You could probably take a right at Samba and reach Udhampur bypassing Jammu and Nagrota.

One thing I noticed about the traffic on J-S highway.. If you're lucky you're thru but if you're stuck somewhere it's gonna be a long one. I was lucky enough to zoom past KMs of traffic waiting for these cut off times.

Currently I'm sitting in my hotel bed in Leh typing this. I've been waiting for 3 nights now for my breathing to normalize and today I'll set off for Nubra. The point being, AMS is a thing and very much real as mentioned in detail in the above post. Anybody can be affected by it? No, everybody is affected by it. It's just the levels of how bad. Some don't even feel it, some end up in the hospital.

So, keep it relaxed and please don't sleep the night at your high points of the day. I've spoken to locals here and not a single soul was ok with the idea of sleeping around Pangong.

Here's a nice souvenir I got...

Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide-img20220924wa0004.jpeg
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Old 25th September 2022, 18:57   #2398
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Update: Crossed Khardungla today. Heavy blizzard, car slipped because of snow and i went into a bus ahead to avoid going down. Not much damage.

People planning to drive there without chains or 4x4, please defer your plans until weather clears.

No warning/stopping at north/south pullu. Only enter car details and go.
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Old 25th September 2022, 21:42   #2399
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Leh manali road is shut. All flights cancelled.
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Old 26th September 2022, 08:03   #2400
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Weather has cleared up now and the sun is out. Lots of snow will remain at the high passes. Can hear flights taking off.
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