[Naetik30]

Hi. I have booked for Leh from Sep 25 to Sep 30. The travel agent I have booked through (Thrillophilia) has sent a mail mentioning RTPCR is mandatory (96 hours prior). I will be flying into Leh. Is RTPCR still necessary?

My wife and I are both vaccinated. But my son (11 year old) still is not vaccinated as no vaccines for <12 year olds yet. So what is the procedure here?

[Mik]

Originally Posted by Ragul

Timely post - I will be reaching there 2nd week of September. The regular route to Hanle recommended by gmap is 2h45min. with nothing left to do the rest of the day after a night stay at Pangong. How much extra time will Alt1 or Alt2 route take?

Ok. So if your starting point is pangong, then at Chushul, you can take the mostly simple route to Hanle which goes through Rezangla war memorial (a must see in its revamped avatar)
We had done this route previously so decided to take a roundabout route to cover Kaksangla and hor la along with mirpal tso after taking a detour to Rezangla war memorial.
From Mahe to Nyoma is fairly straight forward. Further on from Nyoma is Loma and Loma bridge (Where both the routes converge and you cross the loma bridge to make it to hanle). Its at Nyoma that one can make a choice of taking the regular route to hanle, Alt1 or Alt2. For both Alt1 and Alt2 you have to take kaksangla route from chushul.
For timing references, we started from Spangmik at 9 am, were at rezangla war memorial by 11.30 . Left the place by 1 pm and backtracked to Chushul - Kaksangla - Horla - Nyoma. Reached Hanle at around 7.30 after taking Alt1 (decidedly longer than the gmap route by around 1 hr)

We don't have kmls for the same. Gypsy should do just fine if its reliable and can take some underbody hits. The Alt2 might be a bit challenging though. We had rain for company so that made things complex.

Originally Posted by Ragul

So the dirt road shortcut to avoid the Army checkpost merges after of the view-point and we need to backtrack a bit? How many extra km and time for this?

I am not sure which army checkpoint you are talking about. When in Hanle, simply ask locals how to get to nurbula. Take the dirt road to nurbula top and then when you hit the tar road at a perpendicular (the right takes you to zulskar and the left towards umlingla) just go 2km towards the actual nurbula pass (zulskar side). Backtrack and continue towards umling la.

Originally Posted by Ragul

Worth it coming back from Umlinga for a change of scene? Which route is more scenic?

Well we found it totally worth it and didn't want to repeat the same road back. Fotila at 18,600 is one of the highest passes one can do. If you want to stick to only one route, then pick Nurbula.

Originally Posted by Ragul

The road can get endless - how far should one go before turning back? Whats the reason to climb down here? Great views? Or just views of the Chinese side? How far down Umlingla to go to satisfy the urge to reach a stones throw from the Chinese side? (In the interest of time)

Demchok has history. In case you are not too interested in going upto the Indian post there, the Chinese are just across the Indus there, so around 15km downhill if I remember correctly.

Originally Posted by Ragul

How was the weather in August and expected temps in 2nd week of Sept? Minimum and Maximum day temps with wind-chill factor on the plans at 4250m and at the top of the passes - I mean is it mostly tolerable with warm clothing for the most part except the top the passes? Minimum night temps? I am considering taking my pet dog that is not accustomed or built for cold weather (not a Husky or GSD) and plan to stay at 3250m for three nights for both of us to acclimatize before heading 4250m and up in North and South from Leh. But I am contemplating the risk in case he cant handle the weather and altitude. Will decide this week whether I leave him behind or not.

August tends to be overcast mostly. (This was my second August Ladakh trip) Temperatures are at best bearable but windchill can make things hard at night.
September is known to be clearer and not too extreme with regards to temperatures. Ladakh can be freaky though.
Not qualified to speak about dogs, but if yours is a breed that has difficulty in breathing (referencing our pug) then its best to avoid, I say. Not sure if there is any medical help for dogs or if there is some kind of oxygen spray they can use.

[mpksuhas]

Originally Posted by Naetik30

The travel agent I have booked through (Thrillophilia) has sent a mail mentioning RTPCR is mandatory (96 hours prior).

Unless you are in a tour group and your agent is mandating it as a precaution for the group, there is no RTPCR requirement for Leh.

[Naetik30]

Originally Posted by mpksuhas

Unless you are in a tour group and your agent is mandating it as a precaution for the group, there is no RTPCR requirement for Leh.

Thanks a lot. I am not in a tour group. So I guess that should be fine then. Will just carry the vaccination certificate.

[Ragul]

Originally Posted by Mik

For timing references, we started from Spangmik at 9 am, were at rezangla war memorial by 11.30 . Left the place by 1 pm and backtracked to Chushul - Kaksangla - Horla - Nyoma. Reached Hanle at around 7.30 after taking Alt1 (decidedly longer than the gmap route by around 1 hr)

We don't have kmls for the same. Gypsy should do just fine if its reliable and can take some underbody hits. The Alt2 might be a bit challenging though. We had rain for company so that made things complex.

Is it correct that Sunset is typically at 7:30pm at Hanle?

I put Alt2 in the screenshot below. So you saying its good for some great photographs?

Originally Posted by Mik

I am not sure which army checkpoint you are talking about.
...
Backtrack and continue towards umling la.

Checkpost is on the road to Nerbula seen on Google maps - which is why people take shortcuts cutting through the middle of nowhere to avoid questioning.

Originally Posted by Mik

Well we found it totally worth it and didn't want to repeat the same road back. Fotila at 18,600 is one of the highest passes one can do. If you want to stick to only one route, then pick Nurbula.

Hopefully Photi-La should be better than terrible by mid-sept? All the videos I saw showed some road work-in-progress

Originally Posted by Mik

Demchok has history. In case you are not too interested in going upto the Indian post there, the Chinese are just across the Indus there, so around 15km downhill if I remember correctly.

If its just another 15k easily doable. I wanted to avoid another 50km of aimless driving into nowhere just to backtrack.

Originally Posted by Mik

Not qualified to speak about dogs, but if yours is a breed that has difficulty in breathing (referencing our pug) then its best to avoid, I say. Not sure if there is any medical help for dogs or if there is some kind of oxygen spray they can use.

All the indications are that weather is quiet harsh out there even in the day time? Anyways I've decided not to take my pet and torture the poor thing in case he cant cope with the conditions. If I was not doing Pangong-Hanle-TsoMoriri I would have taken him with me to Leh and Nubra at least. But the extra 6 nights above 4000mtr scares me for the sake of his health. Moreover I read that the local feral dogs of Changthang valley are savage man-eaters that have already killed a few people and stripped them to the bone : the-beasts-of-changtang I wouldn't take a chance camping at night anywhere here either - though I don't plan to.

Thanks for the updates!

[TheCatalyst]

Just reached Leh yesterday after a 5 day drive from Mumbai. We stopped at Udaipur, Panipat, Patnitop and Sonamarg. Surprisingly the NH48 in Gujarat is in really bad condition, probably due to rains. Roads after Udaipur are in great shape.
Total of 2800 kms covered so far. Coming from Mumbai, had to get used to the driving habits of people here. We were not stopped anywhere apart from one army checkpost before Sonamarg for our name and car details, which was quick.

Did the Zoji La pass early the morning when the traffic is less. It's definitely not for the light hearted. The constant fear of crumbling stones and unguarded abyss makes you humble and respect the terrain. Roads are non-existent. Also early in the morning, the water crossing are minimal. Post that, the leh highway is really good, although progress is slow due to the twisties.

Finally today is a rest day in Leh. By the way, I am doing this is Honda CRV. No bottoming out so far, or power loss in sport mode. Below turbo zone there is little sluggishness due to altitude (not too bad for the load i am carrying), hence the sport mode. Attaching a pic of the faithful steed.

[Ragul]

Originally Posted by TheCatalyst

Just reached Leh yesterday after a 5 day drive from Mumbai. We stopped at Udaipur, Panipat, Patnitop and Sonamarg..

Srinagar-Kargil route is my backup plan in case the Mandi-Manali stretch does not open up by 1st week of September after the cloudburst and landslides that killed so many people this week - absolutely horrific images of cars and two-wheelers crushed under 7ft boulders, Om Shanti to the departed Atman of the passengers!

Is there a traffic blockade to exit Srinagar before 2pm on the way to Leh or is it only in the reverse direction?

I just filled my Leh Eco Permit online and in the first screen I filled in 9th as arrival date and the next screen only allowed me Ladhak dates from 11th onwards (which is the day I exit Leh for Nubra). So is it to deter flight passengers from heading to higher altitudes before 48hrs? I hope I wont be stopped on the way to Leh from Manali on the 9th because the permit says 11th as start date?

[arundeepbv]

Hello Folks,

I'm planning a trip to Leh next week. I will be driving from Bangalore and planning to cover most of the places in Ladak. The below is my itenary , please let me know of your views and any interesting places which are off the beaten path.

I would love to meet up with other members if any one's itenary sync's up with mine.

Thanks,

[Ragul]

Originally Posted by arundeepbv

Hello Folks,

I'm planning a trip to Leh next week. I will be driving from Bangalore and planning to cover most of the places in Ladak. The below is my itenary , please let me know of your views and any interesting places which are off the beaten path.

I would love to meet up with other members if any one's itenary sync's up with mine.

Thanks,

I am on the path but 5 days behind you at Leh. From Karnal I need to decide whether to take the Haryana-Manali route or Pathankot-Srinagar-Kargil option as landslides and cloudbursts have blocked the highway at Mandi.

Need to free-cancel bookings on one route before Sept so I am trying to get updates on the Manali route blockade. I am still researching the sight-seeing stops though.

Enjoy your trip and do post daily on any must-see stops or gotchas so I can take advantage and benefit.

[TheCatalyst]

Originally Posted by Ragul

Is there a traffic blockade to exit Srinagar before 2pm on the way to Leh or is it only in the reverse direction?

Did not notice any such thing, but then we stopped at Patnitop Sonamarg and did not go into Srinagar. Also I am in the same boat. Original plan was to return via the Manali route, but with the recent rains in Mandi, I am thinking of going back to Srinagar.

Regarding the inner line permit, we also had taken it from 24th Aug, but entered Leh on 23rd. It wasn't checked anywhere. Infact I am currently in Hunder Diskit and just back from Thang Turtuk day trip and it wasn't even checked there. Just ID proofs and car details.

[Ragul]

Originally Posted by arundeepbv

Hello Folks,

I'm planning a trip to Leh next week. I will be driving from Bangalore and planning to cover most of the places in Ladak. The below is my itenary

Please update if inner layer thermals are needed when driving to Pangong/Hanle in the daytime? It will be hard to remove or wear them in public if the weather demands. I dont want to be caught with my pants down .

In other news ...

ANI News Report - 11 Sept 2022
Gypsy driver caught with pants off at Pangong Lake... "He was staring at me constantly, and then he started taking his pants off ..!" A lady tourist complained. In his defense the Gypsy driver said "I was feeling hot and had to remove my inner layers ..."

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by Ragul

Please update if inner layer thermals are needed when driving to Pangong/Hanle in the daytime? It will be hard to remove or wear them in public if the weather demands. I dont want to be caught with my pants down .

In other news ...

You dont need them sitting in your car. Protecting your core with a good jacket is good enough during the day time. Get your body and mind to brave the elements.

Dont get too worked up and over analyse things. Carry all your gear since this seems to be your first time in the himalayas and you will find your way. Next season it will be you giving advice here and you will probably be having a chuckle at all your pre trip questions.

Have a safe drive!

[TheCatalyst]

Originally Posted by Ragul

Please update if inner layer thermals are needed when driving to Pangong/Hanle in the daytime?

At the moment, it's pleasant in Pangong, I wasn't even wearing a jacket. Atop mountains, you may need a wind jacket due to the wind chill. Unless you are camping out, there is no need to wear thermals during the daytime. You may need one at night time. This was based on my experience 2 days ago.

Also note that the roads are really broken to Pangong, both from Nubra and Leh. ChangLa pass was really bad, so do not trust the time shown by gmaps. Add about 2-3 hours to it. Infact do not trust gmaps blindly, ask the locals at junctions. In my case, it showed me a shortcut, which even SUVs like bolero couldn't cross without underbody hit. I had to reverse the stretch and go back.

[Ragul]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

You dont need them sitting in your car. Protecting your core with a good jacket is good enough during the day time. Get your body and mind to brave the elements.

Dont get too worked up and over analyse things. Carry all your gear since this seems to be your first time in the himalayas and you will find your way.

Actually done some backpacking in Himachal and not to Ladhak at a constant 4250m elevation for days hence my apprehensions.

Below is the forecast for thunderstorms (not just rains) in the week of Sept when I will be hitting the road to the North side - Yikes! I have to travel through these rains for 4 days non-stop! 10-11hr jounrneys are likely to extend into 14hrs with depressingly gloomy weather all days, low visibility with a fogging milky windshield and very unsafe driving conditions all along the way! My bad choosing to do such a trip in a year of excessive rainfalls. If not cars aquaplaning and causing accidents, the risk of landslides and rockfalls around Mandi is very high. Then Jammu has been witnessing multiple tremors since this week indicating an impending larger earthquake! Although its a vacation coming, my stress levels are climbing as the travel dates are approaching and looking at the rains and flooding all around...

[ashishy]

Originally Posted by arundeepbv

Hello Folks,

I'm planning a trip to Leh next week. I will be driving from Bangalore and planning to cover most of the places in Ladak. The below is my itenary , please let me know of your views and any interesting places which are off the beaten path.

I would love to meet up with other members if any one's itenary sync's up with mine.

Thanks,

We are leaving from Mumbai on 31st Aug and leaving from Srinagar on 3rd just like you. Rest of the trip is almost the same. Only we are skipping Hanle, tso moriri, zanskar valley.

Sent you a DM with my number.