[Amrik Singh]

Originally Posted by rajivr1612

Team,
Need some advice from the experts.

I want to drill a square hole on my work table to clamp a VESA mount for monitor. But the issue is as shown

You may drill holes on two corners of the intended cutout, large enough to let a Hacksaw Blade pass through. Take a Blade and wrap cloth bandage and Paper Tape on one end to create a Handle (so that teeth of the saw blade do not hurt your hand). Now you can saw and cut away the major chunk of wood before using file for final touches

[GutsyGibbon]

Couple more projects. I bought a bench top mini lathe a few months back, and its been a fun learning curve. I made a couple handles for pans, and such. This was my first bowl made out of spalted maple. I simply have it on my office desk as storage for sugar packets, ketchup packets and such.


This one was ordered by the boss. She uses our garage as her dance studio, and she needed some storage. 3/4" plywood with pine edge banding. I made it out of 2 sheets of plywood with no wastage. Designed to carry 10 big boxes with garments. I usually end up with bunch of extra plywood lying around. I guess I am getting better at making my cut list and sticking to the design/plan. No scope creep.

[Holyghost]

Is there any filler/putty that can be applied on top of wood primer?
I already applied wood primer and noticed some uneven surface that needs levelling. Would prefer to level them out before applying my top coat.

[GutsyGibbon]

Originally Posted by Holyghost

Is there any filler/putty that can be applied on top of wood primer?
I already applied wood primer and noticed some uneven surface that needs levelling. Would prefer to level them out before applying my top coat.

Any filler that you apply needs to grab on to the wood fibers, and then the primer, or varnish needs to be applied. Before applying a varnish, slide a large flat piece with a reference edge on the surface to check for flatness.

Right now, you will need to sand the entire surface to make it even. Just sanding the dip will make the dip even deeper. Then grab the fine sawdust. Mix the sawdust with glue, and then apply liberally, and wipe off the excess with the flat reference edge like that of a putty knife, a spackle knife or a metal scraper.

I deal with surfaces that are very uneven after a glue up. I built a router jig this last weekend to even the surface. This is probably over kill for you (and not the info you were seeking), but this will certainly work.

[Holyghost]

Originally Posted by GutsyGibbon

Right now, you will need to sand the entire surface to make it even. Just sanding the dip will make the dip even deeper. Then grab the fine sawdust. Mix the sawdust with glue, and then apply liberally, and wipe off the excess with the flat reference edge like that of a putty knife, a spackle knife or a metal scraper.
[/ATTACH]

Thanks, I didn't have to sand it down. The paint shop recommended Asian Paints Knifing Paste Filler (KPF) which should be applied on top of wood primer. It comes in a ready to use paste form and was easy to level using putty knife.

[GutsyGibbon]

Slowly graduating to better build techniques. No pocket holes or screws. Just lap joints and glue. A bed for my daughter made out of prime pine wood from New Zealand.



Excuse the dirty mattress of a teenager, I was only looking at my bed frame

[JithinR]

Need some advice from members here on whether this dining table (attached pics) can be modified to be longer in length.

As you can see in the pics, the local carpenter that my dad assigned this job to made a mess of it (this was a few years back).

The two dining chairs on the long side don't really fit under the table without overlap.

That means if two people sit on one side then one person would have to move their chair out of the way for the other to slide out ( I swear you can't find decent carpenters these days ).

Is there a simple way to lengthen the beam running length wise on the table so that this issue is fixed ( I don't have a clue on woodworking so we would need to find another carpenter ).

[GutsyGibbon]

Originally Posted by JithinR

Need some advice from members here on whether this dining table (attached pics) can be modified to be longer in length.

As you can see in the pics, the local carpenter that my dad assigned this job to made a mess of it (this was a few years back).

Is there a simple way to lengthen the beam running length wise on the table so that this issue is fixed .

I can see the issue, but not the design of the entire table. I understand this table was already extended by a carpenter. Probably ended up adding 2 more legs in the middle, to keep things stable for the glass top. You can't really extend wood by joining end grain. It's like joining a bunch of straws. Good join is possible only along the grain. That said if it's hard wood, the whole table can certainly be rebuilt by reusing the wood from the table. Not simple.

Simple fix is to get smaller chairs, or a bench that fits in as per the specs.

[JithinR]

Originally Posted by GutsyGibbon

I can see the issue, but not the design of the entire table. I understand this table was already extended by a carpenter. Probably ended up adding 2 more legs in the middle, to keep things stable for the glass top. ....

Simple fix is to get smaller chairs, or a bench that fits in as per the specs.

Sorry forgot about the post completely.

The table was not extended. We actually learned to live with it and I have already had to purchase those plastic blocks to raise the table height by a few inches just to get our legs underneath it (think our carpenter was drunk on the job). However, since we are at home these days, I was hoping to get the length fixed too.

[d.w.w.]

Originally Posted by JithinR

Sorry forgot about the post completely.

The table was not extended. We actually learned to live with it and I have already had to purchase those plastic blocks to raise the table height by a few inches just to get our legs underneath it (think our carpenter was drunk on the job). However, since we are at home these days, I was hoping to get the length fixed too.

The easiest way to extend will be to replace the pieces running along the length with longer ones. Any extension done in between will be connecting end grains and that joint will never be strong. You can use joints like koshikake kamatsugi but finding a carpenter who can do this is going to the the tricky part. (unless you are in Japan)

[GutsyGibbon]

Originally Posted by JithinR

Sorry forgot about the post completely.
The table was not extended. We actually learned to live with it and I have already had to purchase those plastic blocks to raise the table height by a few inches just to get our legs underneath it (think our carpenter was drunk on the job). However, since we are at home these days, I was hoping to get the length fixed too.

I have been thinking about this design, and here is what I would do. I am assuming all of this is some sort of wood/hardwood.

I would do away with the piece of wood that is connecting the legs in the middle, and seal this hole in the legs with a tenon/plug for strength. Connect the legs with a new pieces of wood that you can afford, way down at the bottom of the legs. The connecting pieces can form the letter H at the bottom. The joins for the letter H can be a simple lap joint. The top of the table legs can be glued to the glass. This will give the table enough strength, and keep these connectors out of the way of your legs. As you only have one bar/connecting piece in the middle, you will be able to slide the chairs in/under the table easily.

If I lived in Bengaluru, I would stop by with my cordless saw and make this in a few hours, and accept a nice lunch as payment. Wife does not allow tools when we vacation in Bengaluru. The table does look great, and I hope you find someone who can fix this correctly.

[GutsyGibbon]

I have been working on this project for several months now. It's all African Mahogany. The side table has some Canadian Maple. The cushions were much harder than expected. I ended up getting the covers stitched in Bengaluru. Even then cutting the foam, the batting to round off corners were all very new to me, and challenging.

[kodava]

Can some of the experienced wood workers here comment on which are the best self tapping wood screws available in India? I have a lot of structural repairs to be done on doors and wooden frames on a coffee plantation. Looking to use a cordless power drill to drive screws into wood.

[GutsyGibbon]

Originally Posted by kodava

Can some of the experienced wood workers here comment on which are the best self tapping wood screws available in India? I have a lot of structural repairs to be done on doors and wooden frames on a coffee plantation. Looking to use a cordless power drill to drive screws into wood.

Have you considered wooden dowels? You can use the drill to make a hole, insert dowel with glue, trim the dowel flush. Glue is stronger than wood, and looks better than screws. I assume coffee plantation means it's wet, and screws can corrode and ruin wood.

[kodava]

Originally Posted by GutsyGibbon

Have you considered wooden dowels? You can use the drill to make a hole, insert dowel with glue, trim the dowel flush. Glue is stronger than wood, and looks better than screws. I assume coffee plantation means it's wet, and screws can corrode and ruin wood.

That is an excellent suggestion however woodworking dowels are not easily available in India. Since I live in rural area I have to order pretty much everything online, only basic fasteners are available here and are prone to rusting.