[hserus]

Originally Posted by Swapnil4585

I always fill petrol from fixed bunks. This time however I did not. Always fill in Toyota's injector cleaner every 10000 kilometres. I will get the car scanned thoroughly once I return.

You don't need to pour injector cleaner every 10k km as a scheduled service item. This is an add on hard sold by dealers to boost their margins.

[carboy]

My 12 year old Swift didn't start now. When I turn the key the normal starting sounds didn't happen. It wasn't like when the sounds happen but it's still enough to start the car. I drove it in the morning & parked it - it was fine then.

The battery symbol on the panel does light up?



The battery is quite old - I think may be 6-7 years old (I drive the car only once a week for the last 3 years).

Is this the battery conking off or can this be something more serious?

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by carboy

The battery is quite old - I think may be 6-7 years old (I drive the car only once a week for the last 3 years).

4~5 Years is the maximum lifetime you can squeeze out of a Car battery, 3 is ideally when you should get it replaced for a reliable user experience.

Change the battery and keep us posted.

[carboy]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

4~5 Years is the maximum lifetime you can squeeze out of a Car battery, 3 is ideally when you should get it replaced for a reliable user experience.

Change the battery and keep us posted.

Sure. But does this sound like a battery issue or something else?

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by carboy

Sure. But does this sound like a battery issue or something else?

I presume so because you've mentioned the age of the battery.

If say the battery was new and the issue still occurred then first thing I'd look for is whether the Immobilizer light is lighting up.

If not then I'd turn the car OFF and then turn the ignition to ON and observe for the fuel pump priming sound coming from under the rear seat of the car, if nothing comes then I'd start with checking its fuse.

It is highly unlikely that the fuel pump would prime alright and the car would still refuse to start without the CEL popping up.

[pganapathy]

Originally Posted by carboy

My 12 year old Swift didn't start now. When I turn The battery symbol on the panel does light up?

The battery is quite old - I think may be 6-7 years old (I drive the car only once a week for the last 3 years).

Is this the battery conking off or can this be something more serious?

Most likely battery is dying/dead. The best thing you can do it test the car with another battery and get the current one tested. A trickle charge may be all that is needed, though if you only keep using the car once a week for a short distance/time, it may need to keep doing trickle charges if you intend to keep it

[carboy]

Called Exide Batmobile. They came & checked the battery & said that the charge is only 10.75. They helped me start the car by connecting the battery to theirs & my battery immediately started charging. I showed a charge of 14.75 within minutes. He said I can charge it & use it but I took it to the shop & got a new battery. This battery was very old.

[sanchari]

I am facing an issue with my 2016 Jazz. Today, it stopped suddenly when I had to slow down suddenly due to an obstacle. After that, the car refused to start and it looked there was no battery power. Nothing in the instrument panel was lighting up too. I was able to put it to the side of the road as it was a bit downhill. I then had a mechanic jump start it, and it started immediately. I was surprised on how suddenly the battery seemed to have drained. I had not turned on any lights overnight. The only thing I had done was keeping my radio on, and I was charging my phone through the charging point.

I decided to head back home, and on the way for couple of seconds, the steering wheel felt inoperable like it does when engine is turned off. The car stereo also restarted and all lights on instrument console came on like it does when you first start the car. After couple of seconds, it was back to normal. It happened like this 3-4 times on my way home, around 7-8 kms. Once I reached my home and turned off the car, the battery also appeared to be fully drained. Nothing came on when I turn the key.

Is the power steering losing its capability normal with a bad battery? what might be happening? And why did the battery go bad all of a sudden with no warning. After driving for around 7-8 kms over 30 minutes, I thought the battery would have recharged a little. But nothing seems to have happened. Am baffled. Planning to contact Honda service center on Monday. But surprised and concerned with how the car behaved.

Anyone faced similar issue with Jazz before? How do I look for blown fuses?

[saket77]

Either you battery is on its way out or you have a bad connection on the terminals. Check these two points and let us know.

[BenjiRoss]

Originally Posted by sanchari

I am facing an issue with my 2016 Jazz. .

Anyone faced similar issue with Jazz before? How do I look for blown fuses?

Your battery is out or its not charging due to a problem with the alternator / associated connections. Any battery shop or service center will be able to check the voltages and diagnose this. The other option is to charge your battery overnight completely and then see if the problem recurs.

[sanchari]

I took the car to the Honda service center and they verified that it was just the battery that had died. It died a sudden death, no warnings, nothing. Till then, the car would start in first crank of the key, no lights getting dim, nothing. In my earlier cars, I could see tell-tale signs of battery getting weak. In this case, nothing.

Anyway, got the battery replaced by BatteryBhai.com. He charged Rs 3500 (dealer quoted Rs 4800 for the same). Car is now working great.

[vagabond128]

One of my friends is facing this strange issue.

He has a Honda City ZX Vtech, 2008 model.

His car starts in morning. He has never faced any cold start issues.

However, sometimes it doesn't start after a short trip of a few KMs, even though the engine is still warm. It starts only after pushing it for a few meters. Once it starts like this, it doesn't give any further starting problems throughout that day.

Strangely, car starts without any problem after long breaks. He faces this issue only after short breaks (<= 10 min).

Earlier this used to happen around once a month. Now, it occurs almost everyday.

He doesn't face any run time issues. Engine runs quite smoothly.

He took it to Honda Service Station. Honda guys did all basic checks. They couldn't pin-point anything.

[suzuki san]

Hi Guys,

Need some help here. Car in question is a Hyundai I20 petrol automatic. 9 years old. Run 60k Kms. Maintained/serviced regularly at Hyundai, Goa.

About 2 weeks ago, I get a call from my friend saying he is having some issues with the car and they are stopped on the side of the road waiting for Hyundai service.

Problem was that the car was "racing" every now and then of it's own accord. Needless to say, his wife(he does not drive) was too scared to continue driving it. (Remember this is an automatic). The car was just accelerating and decelerating in a random fashion.

They had just filled petrol (15 Kms earlier and the day before) at a pump they do not normally use and which has a bad reputation. My first thought was contaminated petrol. Also, this was just after the floods so I thought it may even be water contamination.

Anyway, Hyundai Service arrives, plugged in their OBD computer but were unable to detect any fault. The Hyundai guy drives the car back to the ASS and drops them home. I told my friend to get them to check the fuel filter but the Hyundai guys just laughed off the suggestion.

More than two weeks have now passed and Hyundai have not been able to sort out the problem. My friend has had to leave India to join his ship and his wife is now without a car in Goa - not an easy situation given the pathetic public transport system.

Hyundai first said it was the "plug" (?!?)on the auto gear box, then the spark plugs, then the HT leads, then the wiring harness (Rs.18,000 approx) and finally the icing on the cake - the ECU. The latest estimate is Rs.68,500 for a new ECU. Each of these parts had to be sourced from Chennai and hence the delay - that is the story from Hyundai. (I had told my friend that eventually it will end up being the ECU - knowing Hyundai!!). They did the same on a similar car to another friend of mine.

They are also now saying that the car is facing a starting problem. Not true. It was the exact opposite. Car was starting and taking off by itself!! Hyundai guy himself started the car and drove it to the workshop.

Finally, this evening, my friend's wife got so annoyed, she just asked them to return the car immediately. Their response was - after 2 days! She still does not know if the car is repaired or not.

So, my question is : Can anyone suggest any solution to this problem? I mean the car "engine racing" issue - not the Hyundai one.

Regards,
SS

[pganapathy]

Originally Posted by suzuki san

Need some help here. Car in question is a Hyundai I20 petrol automatic. 9 years old. Run 60k Kms. Maintained/serviced regularly at Hyundai, Goa.
SS

The most likely fault is an issue with the ECU. My cousin had an Ikon which changed its idle revs at will. Generally went upwards. They spent a lot of time and money diagnosing various faults at the Ford dealership. Finally, they replaced the ECU with one from an accident damaged car, at an FNG if memory serves, and everything was fine.

Get the ECU checked properly. If possible, get one from another car put in and check if the error repeats. If not, solution found. Fixing it will be expensive though the second hand route is not out of the question.

[vigsom]

Originally Posted by suzuki san

Hyundai I20 petrol automatic. 9 years old. Run 60k Kms. Maintained/serviced regularly at Hyundai, Goa.

Problem was that the car was "racing" every now and then of it's own accord.

Anyway, Hyundai Service arrives, plugged in their OBD computer but were unable to detect any fault. The Hyundai guy drives the car back to the ASS and drops them home.

More than two weeks have now passed and Hyundai have not been able to sort out the problem.

The fact that no fault code was generated during the OBD scan means nothing is wrong with the values thrown up by the sensors.

There is nothing wrong with the ECU. It is a long lasting part - nothing happens to it unless it blows up due to water ingress/ electrical fault.

This sort of sudden acceleration and deceleration can happen only because of change in composition of fuel OR due to an issue with the throttle position sensor, and possibly the throttle body. An inspection of the plugs would have revealed if the fuel was ok.

If Hyundai did change the coils and harnesses and it didn't solve the problem, why should the customer pay?


No A.S.S has the time or intent to diagnose a problem with an engineering bent of mind; they are just money spinners.