[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

It won’t show up when the engine is still warm. You really need to leave it overnight to try this method. It can take hours before that fuel pressure “leaks” away.

I am facing opposite problem in our Xylo E8 ABS Nov. 2009. The car starts without much problem during Cold Starts. But refuses to start when engine is hot (irrespective of car travelled a distance of 10-20 kms or parked in hot sun for 1-2 hours). I got the Starter serviced, Injectors Overhauled but still the problem is present.

Now after reading in this thread, I am unable to understand whether it's ECU, Fuel Pump, or something else.

One mechanic had got Fuel Pump Overhauled in Dec. 2019 (Don't know whether the Fuel pump was really Overhauled or I was taken for a ride.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by S2K

I have a query fellow bhpians might be able to help.
I have a Ford Freestyle Petrol(BS6) and the engine takes long to startup when I do a cold start. About 3-4 seconds of cranking. Happens only when doing a cold start.

Check with a few more of these engines when they're cold and parked overnight. I'd say this is 'normal' for many 3-pot engines.
.

Originally Posted by S2K

Recently, I had the car parked under direct sun for a few hours around noon. When I started the engine, cranked for almost 7-8 seconds and didn't fire. Subsequent button push lead to a few more seconds of cranking and then the engine fired up normally. Did a stop around 10mins later and fired up engine after 5mins of gap and it fired up normally with the normal cranking.

Sounds so much like fuel vapour lock, but I wouldn't have thought that a fuel-injected engine can suffer from vapour lock nowadays.

Given both the symptoms, I'd suggest you get the ASC to check out your fuel pump (the one inside the tank) and filters (especially at the suction end, at the bottom of the tank). Tell them your engine sometimes feels like it is being starved of fuel. Trying to replicate either problem for the technicians may prove to be difficult.

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

I am facing opposite problem in our Xylo E8 ABS Nov. 2009. The car starts without much problem during Cold Starts. But refuses to start when engine is hot (irrespective of car travelled a distance of 10-20 kms or parked in hot sun for 1-2 hours).

For your Xylo too, I'd suggest that you check out your fuel pump (the one inside the tank) and filters (at the suction end, at the bottom of the tank, as well as the main diesel filter).

[Rahul Bhalgat]

Originally Posted by S2K

Have already tried the ignition approach. Have even tried waiting for as much as a minute and two. Have tried turning the car on and off multiple times without ignition and then crank it, and a few more things around it too. The behaviour does not change.
And no matter for how short duration I run the engine before stopping it, if I restart again, it does so immediately.

Hi S2K,

You have confirmed that have tried waiting after switching on, before cranking. But did you hear the fuel pump kicking in for 2 - 3 seconds immediately after switching on? This will be like the sound of a small electric motor running silently. Try to listen to in silent surroundings and have someone with ear placed near the fuel tank, if needed.

There is no use of waiting for a long time like a minute or two. In my SX4, this time is just 2 - 3 seconds. Be attentive in the first 4 - 5 seconds after switching on.

Suggest you to observe one more thing (at the cold start):
Turn off the cranking just before the engine fires up. If the car takes 4 - 5 seconds of cranking before the cold start, turn off the cranking in 3 - 4 seconds. Don't turn the key to off position all the way, just release the key and let the key return under the spring pressure. Now crank again. Does the engine now fire up immediately (in 2 seconds or so)?

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

For your Xylo too, I'd suggest that you check out your fuel pump (the one inside the tank) and filters (at the suction end, at the bottom of the tank, as well as the main diesel filter).

Sir,
There is no pump inside the tank. I have checked. There is only Float of Fuel Gauge and the filter at the suction end at the bottom of tank which is clean (got the tank and the filter cleaned in February 2020. Again checked last month and it was clean). There is only a Single Diesel Filter-cum-Sedimenter. I had got it replaced in Oct. 2020. Also got the Primer Pump replaced back in Nov. 2019.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

Sir,
There is no pump inside the tank. I have checked. There is only Float of Fuel Gauge and the filter at the suction end at the bottom of tank which is clean (got the tank and the filter cleaned in February 2020. Again checked last month and it was clean). There is only a Single Diesel Filter-cum-Sedimenter. I had got it replaced in Oct. 2020. Also got the Primer Pump replaced back in Nov. 2019.

There has to be a low pressure fuel pump to feed fuel from tank to engine. Not sure where it is located in the Xylo.

[gkveda]

Originally Posted by S2K

I have a query fellow bhpians might be able to help.
I have a Ford Freestyle Petrol(BS6) and the engine takes long to startup when I do a cold start. About 3-4 seconds of cranking.

Is this problem resolved?

I somehow feel, it is battery issue. How old is the battery?

Please rule out this issue by
1. Checking the terminal voltage during cold start before cranking the engine using multimeter. Headlights may turn on without issues and our eyes may not be able to identify the little difference in the intensity of headlight. But, engine may not be getting enough current to crank.

2. Testing with another battery during cold start will provide inputs on whether any other issues in the fuel line pressure or pump issue.

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

There has to be a low pressure fuel pump to feed fuel from tank to engine. Not sure where it is located in the Xylo.

Not in all diesel cars, especially the Xylo and some Mahindra engines. They use the high pressure pump as the only pump and give you a priming pump in the engine bay itself to get rid of air lock. If not, the high pressure pump will not be able to suck fuel all the way from the tank. Thats how the design itself is.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by audioholic

...a priming pump in the engine bay...

Yes, that's the one. That pump failing or being choked may be the root cause of the problem.

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

Yes, that's the one. That pump failing or being choked may be the root cause of the problem.

The priming pump is a manual pump which has to be used only when the fuel tank is dry. Apart from that there is no mechanical or electrical pump in the Xylo except for the main high pressure pump.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by audioholic

The priming pump is a manual pump which has to be used only when the fuel tank is dry. Apart from that there is no mechanical or electrical pump in the Xylo except for the main high pressure pump.

I see. That's unusual. Haven't had occasion to check the mechanicals of a Xylo. My apologies.

[S2K]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

Given both the symptoms, I'd suggest you get the ASC to check out your fuel pump (the one inside the tank) and filters (especially at the suction end, at the bottom of the tank). Tell them your engine sometimes feels like it is being starved of fuel. Trying to replicate either problem for the technicians may prove to be difficult.
.

Have a video recordings of each case and they understood and accepted it to be abnormal.
But they responded saying since this is a non-standard issue, they will co-ordinate with the Sanand workshop/engineers to carry out the diagnosis. Also since it needs a cold start, they have to keep gap between subsequent tests.
The vehicle was at the workshop for two days.
So far they have tested the starter plugs, cleaned the injectors, battery and starter motor.
They requested a day more but I had to leave for my place (currently about 150km away, because working from home). Will take it back in a couple of weeks time.
I believe, moving along the fuel lines, they'll be testing the parts you mentioned. If not, I'll be mindful.

Originally Posted by Rahul Bhalgat

Turn off the cranking just before the engine fires up. If the car takes 4 - 5 seconds of cranking before the cold start, turn off the cranking in 3 - 4 seconds. Don't turn the key to off position all the way, just release the key and let the key return under the spring pressure. Now crank again. Does the engine now fire up immediately (in 2 seconds or so)?

Tried listening to the sound. There is a minute thud like sound the moment I push the button(not turn the key). Nothing like a motor whirring.

Also is there any way to try with push button start what you suggested with key turn?

Originally Posted by gkveda

Is this problem resolved?
I somehow feel, it is battery issue. How old is the battery?
.

Doesn't seem to be battery issue. The service centre has checked and ruled it out.

PS. Thanks for the support and glad to be part of this community. Will keep updating it just so that the problem, its cause and its resolution are documented for others.

[hserus]

Did you try to check the fuel filter and see if that is water logged?

[DLC5005]

Hi all,
Faced a peculiar situation with my 2013 i10 yesterday.

Travelled for 20kms and parked it in the parking lot in a nearby town.
As soon as I switched off the car, the doors did not unlock automatically (usually it does with auto cop).
Couldn't restart the car and even the remote lock, ignition, lights nothing worked. In simple words the car battery appeared completely dead !

Opened the bonnet to find for any loose wires or battery terminals. But all were intact. So with nothing much to do, I just shook the wires and closed the bonnet.

Waited for 5 mins, then tried to start.
Voila! The car started in the first crank itself. And all electricals were back to normal.
Have run around additional 30kms after this and everything feels normal.


Safer side, after reaching home I removed the battery plugs, cleaned it and have reconnected it.

Coming to the battery,
My car is running with amaron battery from 2018.
No issues with cranking, cold start, lighting etc.
The first battery(Exide) had lasted almost 5 years.

So, any idea what could have gone wrong.
Anything I should be careful of in future?
Worried a bit, since I take the car on highways with family, sometimes. Looking forward to some inputs/suggestions.

Thanks,
Chandan

[SideView]

Originally Posted by DLC5005

Hi all,
Faced a peculiar situation with my 2013 i10 yesterday.

Travelled for 20kms and parked it in the parking lot in a nearby town.
As soon as I switched off the car, the doors did not unlock automatically (usually it does with auto cop).

Thanks,
Chandan

Better get battery checked up as precaution.

Sometimes it throws such symptoms if it is weak.

My radio was acting up ( used to take time to activate, and Bluetooth was not getting connected randomly) no issue with cranking or anything else. Turned out it was weak battery.

[DLC5005]

Originally Posted by SideView

Better get battery checked up as precaution.

Sometimes it throws such symptoms if it is weak.

Thanks for the inputs, SideView.
My father too suggested the same this evening.

Will get the battery health check done from my regular Hyundai ASC next week.

Originally Posted by SideView

My radio was acting up ( used to take time to activate, and Bluetooth was not getting connected randomly) no issue with cranking or anything else. Turned out it was weak battery.

Oh okay.
I haven't encountered such scenario!

The first battery in my i10 had lasted around 5 years.
It was replaced pro actively when it started showing slight delay in cranking.

Thank you,
Chandan