[fifthgear]

I have a 2007 Santro Xing. Left it unused for few weeks and now it will not start. Battery voltage is 11.8 V. I will be recharging it using a Home UPS. What should be the max voltage I need to charge it to?

While removing the battery, I forgot to make a note of which connector is positive and which one is negative.

The connector I think is positive has a black plastic cover and the connector I think is negative does not have any cover. Also I think the negative connector may be the one attached to the car body (grounded) near the radiator. Are these assumptions correct?

[curiousbolt]

Originally Posted by fifthgear

I have a 2007 Santro Xing. Left it unused for few weeks and now it will not start. Battery voltage is 11.8 V. I will be recharging it using a Home UPS. What should be the max voltage I need to charge it to?

While removing the battery, I forgot to make a note of which connector is positive and which one is negative.

The connector I think is positive has a black plastic cover and the connector I think is negative does not have any cover. Also I think the negative connector may be the one attached to the car body (grounded) near the radiator. Are these assumptions correct?

You can just put it to charge till the voltage measures atleast 12.6V, not an issue if it exceeds that also. And usually the terminal with cover is positive (the cover is to prevent accidental shorts) , Most of the cases the polarity would be written on the cover itself you can have a look. And you're right about the negative terminal being ground. If you have a multimeter, when you check voltage, if multimeter positive probe and battery positive terminal is matched it will give a positive value and if its not matched it gives a negative value, you can figure out the terminals this way too. Hope it helps

[bharatbits]

I tried to crank and start my Linea. However, nothing happens when i tried to crank. I got 2 people to push start my car and fortunately the car started.

The previous day i experienced some burning smell from the engine bay. There was no indication of any sort on the MID. The car did fail to start on 2 occasions (1 month ago and 2 months ago) prior to this as well. Then, i could just hear clicking sound (click, click, click......) but the car would not start. Then i got somebody to push and i slotted the car in 2nd gear and the car started on both occasions. But, this time i don't even get that clicking sound and i did experience burning smell the previous day when the car was running. Also, the previous day the car would crank automatically on its own as soon as i turned the key to ACC position. Explained in detail here https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...ml#post4857610 (Fiat Linea - Various niggling issues? Post your experiences here.).

What do you think the problem could be? Car is Linea MJD 76PS. 50000kms. 4 years. Battery is 4 years 6 months old. Exide and stock. The car was never idle even during the lockdown and did run like it ran before 55 kms everyday since i work in essential services.

I have a feeling the problem could lie in

1. Battery (age is 4 years, 6 months old. Exide battery shop guy suggested almost a year ago that i replace. However, FIAT ASS certified it is fit to use in the 45k service 6 months ago. Battery may not be an issue because the lights on the dashboard are pretty bright, the horn is very strong and car starts in first crank. But, even if i lift all the power windows on battery after turning off ignition the battery will run out of juice.

2. Wires connecting the battery to starter motor and or solenoid could be short or burnt. Probably that explains why the car auto cranked and started on its own when the key was just inserted and turned to ACC position.

3. Solenoid. (My research on internet so far says so).

4. Starter motor. (My research on internet so far says so).

If i visit ASS i have a feeling i will be made to change all the above. I don't get my cars serviced outside ASS. But, i don't want to change perfectly working parts either.

I have a feeling the battery could be an issue (because i was seeing the ABS and airbag warning on the MID everytime i start for the past few months) and i am ready to change the battery to see if it fixes the issue. But, is it too late since i tried cranking on a weak battery for months which in turn affected the solenoid and or the starter motor?

Look forward to your inputs on this please. How do i pinpoint on what the issue is exactly?

[bharatbits]

Additional information:

I drove in fairly deep, water logged Mumbai roads the previous day. I think exposure to rain water has caused this issue. Which among the 3 - wires connecting the starter motor to battery, starter motor solenoid or starter motor could be impacted/ short ed by exposure to water? I would like to know which of them is exposed to be affected by 1.5 feet rain water ?

[vigsom]

Originally Posted by bharatbits

I got 2 people to push start my car and fortunately the car started.

Then, i could just hear clicking sound (click, click, click......) but the car would not start. Then i got somebody to push and the car started on both occasions.

But, this time i don't even get that clicking

the previous day the car would crank automatically on its own as soon as i turned the key to ACC position.

Here are a few things to be checked by a competent electrician :

1. The health of a battery - voltage at idle + specific gravity in each cell + perform a load test on the battery to check its health

2. If the battery is fine, move to the starter fuse ( will most likely be in the fuse box in the engine bay) and see if it is intact.

3. Inspect the cables to the starter - you would be able to locate the starter and solenoid easily at some where around where the engine ends and gear box starts.

4. Check your ignition switch; it should not start the car when in ACC position.

5. Check health of both the starter and the starter solenoid

I repeat - please get a COMPETENT electrician to check.

[bharatbits]

Thank you for the quick and helpful response.

Originally Posted by vigsom

3. Inspect the cables to the starter - you would be able to locate the starter and solenoid easily at some where around where the engine ends and gear box starts.

Does the starter, solenoid sit pretty low in the engine bay to get exposed to water?

Originally Posted by vigsom

4. Check your ignition switch; it should not start the car when in ACC position.

True. My research on internet also said that. I was told it could also be if i was using a worn key or a remote key. I tried with the second key too. I have both manual keys and no remote, autocop things on my car.

Originally Posted by vigsom

5. Check health of both the starter and the starter solenoid.

Is there a reliable way to get the starter and solenoid health checked? In general, can we know the remaining life on a starter and solenoid on a well running car?

In case i find there's some problem with the starter or solenoid would servicing it be a good idea? I read that starter and solenoid are mechanical parts and have a finite life. It's best to keep getting it serviced once every 50000 kms. Brushes and bushes etc get worn and need to changed for it to be working back again.

In case i get it serviced how reliable would it be considering i work in emergency service and cannot afford downtime. This is the only car i have with me now.

[vigsom]

Originally Posted by bharatbits

Does the starter, solenoid sit pretty low in the engine bay to get exposed to water?

In case i find there's some problem with the starter or solenoid would servicing it be a good idea?.

The starter and solenoid assembly sits at the top of the gearbox.

The starter gear engages with the flywheel when the solenoid is energised(ignition switch in start position) and gear retracts once the ignition switch is back to the on position.

Generally water doesn't get till the starter. Even if it does, the unit would function normally once dry. Attempt to use it when wet and the winding is likely to go kaput.

Starters generally don't go faulty till 10 years or even more.Life of starter depends on how many times the car has been started and how long it takes for the engine to fire.

Starters can easily be serviced but solenoids are generally replaced.

Since yours is an MJD, the starter would most likely be the same used in Tata Quadrajets and Maruti 1.3 diesels.

[Rshrey22]

I've been facing this weird issue in my Dzire petrol lately. Whenever I twist the key to on position everything is normal but when I start the car, it loses all electrical power completely. Everything stops in the car, all the guages the stereo and it seems like battery is completely drained. But when I pat the positive terminal cover a couple times, everything comes back to normal.

It has happened at Red light sometimes as well. The amaron battery is only 2 years old. What could be the problem?

[balenoed_]

Originally Posted by Rshrey22

But when I pat the positive terminal cover a couple times, everything comes back to normal.

I guess you have the answer yourself. Did you thoroughly inspect there is no loose contact at the battery terminal? Remove it off, clean, slightly scrub it to remove any contamination and tight it back.

[bblost]

Originally Posted by Rshrey22

I've been facing this weird issue in my Dzire petrol lately. Whenever I twist the key to on position everything is normal but when I start the car, it loses all electrical power completely. Everything stops in the car, all the guages the stereo and it seems like battery is completely drained. But when I pat the positive terminal cover a couple times, everything comes back to normal.

It has happened at Red light sometimes as well. The amaron battery is only 2 years old. What could be the problem?

Couple of points.

1. Remove the wire from the battery terminal and give a nice scrub using steel wool. There might be some dirt coating and making the connection bad.

2. The tapping of the battery terminal has nothing to do with it. Your ignition key might be the culprit. Do you have a heavy key chain by any chance?

[Rshrey22]

Originally Posted by bblost

2. The tapping of the battery terminal has nothing to do with it. Your ignition key might be the culprit. Do you have a heavy key chain by any chance?

I prefer not to use any keychains, just a ring to hold keys. Would ignition key cause problem even when the car is running? As the car has lost power while idling at traffic light a couple times as well.

Originally Posted by balenoed_

I guess you have the answer yourself. Did you thoroughly inspect there is no loose contact at the battery terminal? Remove it off, clean, slightly scrub it to remove any contamination and tight it back.

I've inspected the connections, they are tight and there isn't any visible corrosion on close inspection, I feel you are right, I'll get the positive terminal wire completely opened and checked by the electrician.

[bblost]

Originally Posted by Rshrey22

I prefer not to use any keychains, just a ring to hold keys. Would ignition key cause problem even when the car is running? As the car has lost power while idling at traffic light a couple times as well.

Yep. A short circuit situation will do it.

I've inspected the connections, they are tight and there isn't any visible corrosion on close inspection, I feel you are right, I'll get the positive terminal wire completely opened and checked by the electrician.

Best. Also since this is electrical and there is a possibility of short circuit, I would strongly recommend getting this done as soon as possible.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Rshrey22

I've been facing this weird issue in my Dzire petrol lately. Whenever I twist the key to on position everything is normal but when I start the car, it loses all electrical power completely. Everything stops in the car, all the guages the stereo and it seems like battery is completely drained. But when I pat the positive terminal cover a couple times, everything comes back to normal.

It has happened at Red light sometimes as well. The amaron battery is only 2 years old. What could be the problem?

The cable and or the connector of the battery is loose.
1. First check the cable. Pull it a few times and move it side to side,
2. If cable is loose it will move, but the terminal connector will not.
3. It the terminal connector is loose it will move.

In either case
. Tighten the terminal connector after pushing it into the terminal.
. Tighten the screws that fix the cable to the terminal.

[Rshrey22]

Originally Posted by Aroy

The cable and or the connector of the battery is loose.
1. First check the cable. Pull it a few times and move it side to side,
2. If cable is loose it will move, but the terminal connector will not.
3. It the terminal connector is loose it will move.

In either case
. Tighten the terminal connector after pushing it into the terminal.
. Tighten the screws that fix the cable to the terminal.

Thanks Aroy, I've got it fixed by an electrician now, there was some corrosion and some wire was slightly cut plus the connection was loose too. This must have happened because of my recent trip to Bareilly, although the roads are smooth but large potholes are always lurking around, I could not brake on time while encountering one and the whole car rocked pretty badly. The connections must have gotten loose then.

[TaurusSHO]

For weeks now, I've been facing a problem while starting the car. Whenever I start the car in the morning, the whole car shakes and vibrates for a couple of seconds and then it dies. But when I turn on the ignition again, it starts and runs smoothly, no violent shaking.

Took the car for a service, they inspected and changed the spark plugs as per their recommendation but it did not help. I'm thinking it has got something to do with a bad sensor? What could be the problem?