[rr_zen]

Originally Posted by The Saint

I think you have missed surfing this thread, I have already done a complete review on the koni's FSD. just search this thread with my handle name and you will find the entire review, if you have any specific questions after that, you can pm me or call me or put it here, I will be hapy to answer them for you.

Cheers

Thanks. My bad. I will go through this thread and revert with any queries I have. Thanks again.

EDIT: I was looking out for something like a long term review.

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by spadix

The silver-finished (lookalike) bits of the Civic are known to fade, and I too have observed blemishes on the horn button - gathered over time, for instance turmeric that priests apply during vehicle puja - that won't go away. Don't worry too much about those.

The Honda SAs and even the CEO of Pride Honda told me that the odo cannot be tampered with but I subscribe very strongly to the notion that anything and everything in this world can be broken/bypassed/circumvented including the Civic's odo.

The service record is the easiest way to identify. Looking at the dates on the tyres, like autofreak suggested, is another good starting point.

I saw a Merc being clocked (and then reversed) by an ex-con on Wheeler dealer - so I agree it can be clocked, how only the guru/crook will know.

For the age of a car the service history is the best, but there are other tell tales. Pedal rubber starts to show wear at about 45,000km and at 60,000+ the metal may start showing through. State of the seats, and interiors is another. I find the service history plus the pedal rubber wear as obvious checks. Tyres do not help since their life depends a lot on the usage. The tyre age may help somewhat. At the end of the day you have to combine data from various checks.

[sushrutha]

Originally Posted by civic-sense

Rs 450 was the bill. My friend took me to that workshop, the name which I don't remember now. It was near bannerghatta road. I will pm you the details after I talk to my friend.

That's good price. Is it including the removal and refit of the brake rotors labour too ? Please send me the details.

I bought an after-market fog lamps from jc road. Can anybody suggest a good place in south Bangalore where I can get it installed? I don't mind if the wiring is not done. Just put the fogs in place.

Good After market foglamps are quoted anywhere between 3-5K depending on the quality in JC Road. How much did you pay ?
Checkout THROTTLE at Jayanagar 7th block. Though an accessory shop, he has guys who will do the labour work on electrical parts too IFF they are free .
I have got most of works done by them, and they are decent too.

[sushrutha]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

so I agree it can be clocked, how only the guru/crook will know.

I have seen meter repair shops who do odmeter tampering.
Not a crook,
It's very easy in a digital meter than an analog one.
Digital ones are just flashed(IC Chip) , Remember EEPROM (Electrically Erasable Programable Memory) One needs a computer , system interface and software. One can get whatever number he/she desires
Whereas in analog, one has to open the meter and then turn the numbers to whatever desired.

Some link & POI

Originally Posted by viper

Hi,

Yes its a very simple procedure done bu guys who repair meters. Have seen it being done in my presence and no one can make out unless and until the pcb is opened. The difference will be there in the soldering.

What they do is replace the chip that stores the odo reading by another one with the reading desired. This is done by writing a blank chip hooked up to a chip burner and a laptop. They charge about 1500 in Mumbai and takes approx 25-30 mins.

Viper

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...-tampered.html

[SmartCat]

My creaky/hard clutch issue has come back - just 1,500 km after replacing the clutch. I went down to the service station again and the problem was fixed in 15 minutes.

This time, I was fed some malarky about clutch oil leaking on to the spring thereby rusting it. That's why apparently I get the "creak, creak" sound when I depress the clutch lever. So apparently, he has removed the rust and put a tape around the spring (?huh?) and has promised me that I won't get the "creak" sound till I come back for the next service.

And he assured me that all Civics has this problem, not just mine.

[sushrutha]

Originally Posted by smartcat

won't get the "creak" sound till I come back for the next service.

And he assured me that all Civics has this problem, not just mine.

My CIVIC too has this "Creak Creak" noise whenever I press the clutch.

Spray some WD40, the sound vanishes and once when the engine bay(say after 2 times) is washed the sound reappears.

Seems like now I have to just tape it as you say. Do you have a pic of what exactly has been taped ?

[SmartCat]

Originally Posted by sushrutha

My CIVIC too has this "Creak Creak" noise whenever I press the clutch.

Spray some WD40, the sound vanishes and once when the engine bay(say after 2 times) is washed the sound reappears.

Seems like now I have to just tape it as you say. Do you have a pic of what exactly has been taped ?

Yay! Your car's clutch creaks too? I'm not the only one then. That's excellent!
I mean.. that's sad

Where do you spray WD40? Into the hole that the clutch pedal goes into?

The tape that the service advisor applied on the clutch spring is not visible. It's inside the clutch assembly.

The "creak" sound every time the clutch pedal is depressed was incredibly irritating - worse than rattles that you see in other cars. Glad to get rid of it.

[civic-sense]

Originally Posted by sushrutha

That's good price. Is it including the removal and refit of the brake rotors labour too ? Please send me the details.

450 was just for the skimming. Will send u a PM.

Good After market foglamps are quoted anywhere between 3-5K depending on the quality in JC Road. How much did you pay ?
Checkout THROTTLE at Jayanagar 7th block. Though an accessory shop, he has guys who will do the labour work on electrical parts too IFF they are free .
I have got most of works done by them, and they are decent too.

Fogs cost 3800, decent quality.

[sushrutha]

Originally Posted by smartcat

Where do you spray WD40? Into the hole that the clutch pedal goes into?

The tape that the service advisor applied on the clutch spring is not visible. It's inside the clutch assembly.

Yep, the same place.
From Which workshop did you get this tape applied on the clutch.
Seems like I have to run to the same place ;-)

@Civic-sense
How is the brake bite after the skimming is done ?

[spadix]

Originally Posted by smartcat

My creaky/hard clutch issue has come back - just 1,500 km after replacing the clutch. I went down to the service station again and the problem was fixed in 15 minutes.

Originally Posted by sushrutha

My CIVIC too has this "Creak Creak" noise whenever I press the clutch.

I had this creak develop within a week or two of delivery and got it fixed during the 1st service. It hasn't reappeared since (15k kms and 10 months in the interim).

Originally Posted by smartcat

The "creak" sound every time the clutch pedal is depressed was incredibly irritating - worse than rattles that you see in other cars. Glad to get rid of it.

Yes! Especially on a brand new car as was in my case.

Originally Posted by sushrutha

Digital ones are just flashed(IC Chip) , Remember EEPROM (Electrically Erasable Programable Memory) One needs a computer , system interface and software. One can get whatever number he/she desires

As I said, nothing is impossible in this world. It just needs a little bit of willpower. Where there's will, time and skill will make their way automatically.

Regards,
spadix

[spadix]

Originally Posted by mdsaab

*Update on Shell fuel Consumption*
So far the consumption is in line with expectations. It was lagging behind till yesterday, took a little city stretch which had some 4 lane roads mixed with single laned narrow side streets et all. And right know consumption seems to be break even with when i will up from BP. Still quite a bit of fuel left though to complete the test. Will update once i reach that level.

And here's my update -

10.3 kmpl using yellow light to yellow light method
10.0 kmpl using tankful to auto-cutoff method

Why am I quoting both figures? Because neither is 100% accurate.

I've seen the yellow light stay on on occasion when I fill up a small quantity of petrol without turning the engine off but it goes off when I switch the engine off (after reaching my destination) and then switch the electricals on again.

The tankful to auto-cutoff method on the other hand depends on nozzle length and how deep inside the tank the operator holds the nozzle.

Shell didn't lead to any obvious improvement, in a nut-shell.

This last tankful saw more than its regular share of bumper-to-bumper peak-time traffic but also more than its regular share of relaxed 60-80 kmph midnight-time cruising with AC off. In any case all of this could've resulted in +/- 0.2 kmpl which again is not terribly different from what I see with BP/HP/IOCL.

Considering that I have to go nearly 10 km out of my way to get Shell, I think I'll stick to my regular IOCL pump.

Regards,
spadix

[sushrutha]

Originally Posted by spadix

Shell didn't lead to any obvious improvement, in a nut-shell.

As I have mentioned before, there isn't much of a difference in mileage, just marginal.
Still I would opt for Shell for the below reasons.

Originally Posted by sushrutha

I don't find much of a difference in FE with shell petrol, it's just a marginal. .say around 0.5kmpl when compared with other PSU - UNADULTRATED petrol.
Y Shell ?
Quality + Quantity + peace of mind..

Originally Posted by spadix

And here's my update -

10.3 kmpl using yellow light to yellow light method
Because neither is 100% accurate.

Remember when you park your civic in an incline, the fuel meter will either increase or decrease depending upon which way you have parked in the incline.
It will show a decrease in a UNIT, if you park your car in an incline front facing the upper side of the incline & Vice-versa.

I always go with Full tank to full tank method(till the petrol is about to spill ) when calculating the mileage

[spadix]

Originally Posted by sushrutha

I always go with Full tank to full tank method(till the petrol is about to spill ) when calculating the mileage

I keep hearing that it's "bad" to fill to the brim. I've had fuel filled to the brim on many an occasion without any obvious impact on performance/mileage/whatever. I'm still looking for an definitive, "authoritative" answer to whether this is a good practice or not, especially in the context of the Civic.

Regards,
spadix

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by spadix

I keep hearing that it's "bad" to fill to the brim. I've had fuel filled to the brim on many an occasion without any obvious impact on performance/mileage/whatever. I'm still looking for an definitive, "authoritative" answer to whether this is a good practice or not, especially in the context of the Civic.

In the old days the fuel fillers did not seal the tank. So excess fuel could (and did) spill out. I have had this on my FIATs, Ford Escort, etc. Obviously the Amby with the filler on top was immune. So the adage can into being.

[rr_zen]

Originally Posted by spadix

I keep hearing that it's "bad" to fill to the brim. I've had fuel filled to the brim on many an occasion without any obvious impact on performance/mileage/whatever. I'm still looking for an definitive, "authoritative" answer to whether this is a good practice or not, especially in the context of the Civic.

Regards,
spadix

I have read that as the temperature increases, fuel tends to expand thereby could possibly spill over.

On a different note, what is the benefit of filling upto the brim than filling upto auto cut off ? As I can see, one can fill in 2-3 litres more using the former method than the latter. Is there anything else am missing here ?