[motorguy]

In my i20, in addition to doing the alignment, the steering angle sensor has to be reset - this is also an important item which only the service center can do.
Otherwise, you have to do the alignment, and then go to a AS* and request them to reset the sensor (through their vehicle diagnostics software).
In my hometown, I learne that no WA place does the reset of the sensor. In this regard, is it really necessary to reset the sensor?

[MadTitan47]

Originally Posted by longhorn

In most cars, only the toe can be adjusted.

Mine is a Tata Tiago, the owners manual does specify the acceptable range of caster, camber and toe. I don't know whether these can be adjusted by WA shops apart from the service center.


However, I have seen one video of i20 getting WA done at MRF tyre service and you can clearly see all three values being adjusted.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0VS_vTWYgE

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Originally Posted by motorguy

In my i20, in addition to doing the alignment, the steering angle sensor has to be reset - this is also an important item which only the service center can do.
Otherwise, you have to do the alignment, and then go to a AS* and request them to reset the sensor (through their vehicle diagnostics software).
In my hometown, I learne that no WA place does the reset of the sensor. In this regard, is it really necessary to reset the sensor?

Please refer my post posted here (Hyundai Elite i20 : Official Review).

There is no need need to reset the sensors if the steering wheel is aligned straight ahead before doing Wheel Alignment.

[Nikhilb2008]

Originally Posted by motorguy

In my i20, in addition to doing the alignment, the steering angle sensor has to be reset - this is also an important item which only the service center can do.
Otherwise, you have to do the alignment, and then go to a AS* and request them to reset the sensor (through their vehicle diagnostics software).
In my hometown, I learne that no WA place does the reset of the sensor. In this regard, is it really necessary to reset the sensor?

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

Please refer my post posted here (Hyundai Elite i20 : Official Review).

There is no need need to reset the sensors if the steering wheel is aligned straight ahead before doing Wheel Alignment.

The sensor reset is required only sometimes. Not all the time. The steering wheel being perfectly straight is one way of ensuring the car is aligned well, but sometimes it isnt enough. The sensor may need to be reset too in certain cases.

As of now, there are very few OBD tools that support this particular reset. And those that support are prohibitively expensive for a car alignment centre. Over time, they should get cheaper and make more sense for an alignment centre to own.

Some Mahindra cars also require a Steering Angle Sensor Reset.

Originally Posted by MadTitan47

Mine is a Tata Tiago, the owners manual does specify the acceptable range of caster, camber and toe. I don't know whether these can be adjusted by WA shops apart from the service center.


However, I have seen one video of i20 getting WA done at MRF tyre service and you can clearly see all three values being adjusted.


https://www.Youtube.com/watch?v=b0VS_vTWYgE

Please dont treat this video as anything more than entertainment. The mechanics, the guy filming dont know anything.

In this case, only toe is getting adjusted and the other readings are changing because of this. As you know, the suspension is one set of multiple smaller components. Changing one can also lead to a change in the other.

So, in this case, it seems that changing the toe angle is also changing the caster or camber. But this isnt true all the time.

[self_driven]

Hi guys, my Hyundai Eon has had this steering wheel issue for quite some time now. Car drives straight when the steering is in dead centre position. Turn it left and it behaves normally. Return to centre action in this position is lower than expected. Turn it right and the steering abruptly jumps to the left unless you hold the wheel firmly. Say if I turn the steering right by 10 degrees on a roundabout and loosen my grip, the wheel jumps back and ends up being in 30 degree left position.

Hyundai ASS tells me not to leave the steering while driving.

Today I got the wheels balanced and alignment checked with Hunter equipment. Here are the readings before adjustment:


Alignment shop fiddled for more than 1 hour and this is the best they could do:


The culprit seems to be the front left wheel which they say has shifted back due to external hit. The steering wheel issue still exists. I have been told to get the steering calibrated at Hyundai ASS and if that doesn't solve it, there is a component (some rod?) which will have to be hammered back to original shape.

Car is on stock rubber and has done 30k kms. All tyres have even wear and the rear right tyre was swapped with spare wheel (brand new) few days ago.

I would request Nikhil sir and others to go through the alignment values and throw some light on the possible causes and solution.

[MBond007]

Recently I saw some weird pattern in my new Apollo tyres. It has barely run 1000 km.





What could be causing such wear line?

Some sites suggest that under-inflation is the culprit, while according to some it might be alignment or camber issue. The car has run 2000 km since the last balancing and alignment was done.

[vrprabhu]

Originally Posted by Ricci

..... The owner's manual doesn't have wheel alignment specs ( I need to check again ).....

Precise reason why I am going through this thread - again. Unable to find what are the manufacturer specified wheel alignment specs for my car (Palio 1.2) - no information appears to be available.

While getting the alignment done a few days back, noticed some technicians working on the machine (Brand : John Bean) and had a casual chat with them, about this. Their reply was quite surprising - it seems the parameters / specs vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, as the technique used by them to measure the angles differ - and hence the specs (ipso facto, tolerances) vary.

He said as long as the alignment values are within the tolerances specified, I need not worry.

Is this true?

[Sumesh_Jazz]

I own a 2019 Skoda Octavia 1.8 TSI. Along with the first service which I availed last month, I also went for wheel alignment and balancing from the Skoda service centre itself. After the alignment job, I have been experiencing a gradual pull towards the left when I take my hands off the steering wheel. I am also experiencing a noticeable change in suspension behaviour which has now became stiffer compared to the earlier soft suspension. There was no rattle or vibrations from the car earlier, however now when moving over slightly rough patches I am experiencing vibrations from the left and right ends of the dashboard area. I have posted this issue in the official Octavia forum as well. As per the suggestions from members I will be going for repeat wheel alignment from a reliable centre outside the company workshop.
What I could not figure out still is regarding the change in suspension behaviour. Does the adjustments with respect to toe, camber and caster angles made during wheel alignment affect the suspension of he car? I hope someone can help me with this.

Thanks and Regards,
Sumesh

[Djay]

Can anyone please recommend a good, knowledgeable and reliable tyre shop in Pune for wheel balancing and alignment.

Would really appreciate some help from Pune members as I have tried 2-3 places including ASC, but am not entirely satisfied.

[vrprabhu]

^ Djay,

Please go through this thread - https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/other...ml#post1919280 (Lokmanya Tyres (Pune))

The shop on Karve Road is easily accessible, but their alignment and balancing centre is in the older part of Pune.

[zeng]

First thread from Kuala Lumpur, be nice and gentle please if you kind folks may.

I came to realise there are differences in Maruti Factory Rear Camber specification between 2011 and 2013 models summarised as below :

2011 Rear Camber Minimum -1°45' , Maximum -0°05'; (Within negative regimes)
Source: https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/tyre-...ml#post4604828 (Wheel Alignment & Balancing)

vs

2013 Rear Camber Minimum +0°15' , Maximum +1°15'; (Within positive regimes)
Source: https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...ml#post5133672 (Camber Adjustment query & Camber Adjusting Bolts?)

Note:
a) Both of these Front Camber and Front Caster specification ranges are similar and identical in values, and

b) ignoring for now minor specification difference between 2011 and 2013 models in Front/Rear Toes ranges which are basically in positive toe(-in) regimes;

c) I am aware of 2011 models falling under Swift Gen 1 and 2013 models falling under Swift Gen 2 (international) which may account for minor or zero difference in Rear Suspension design. Please clarify folks.

Questions on 2011 vs 2013 models:

1) What are the design difference in Factory Rear Suspension design/dimension/part number ,if any.
Can the knowledgeables and learneds provide clarifications and enlightenments whether or not there are engineering differences between them?

2) If differences do exist, is the difference significant enough to neccesitate altering Rear Camber specification range from negative regime (2011 model) to positive regime (2013 model)?

3) If no differences exist, why is Rear Camber specification range altered/changed by Factory and its rationales?

4) From the perspective of vehicle dynamics and trigonometry, what are the rationales behind altering Negative Rear Camber regime of 2011 model to Positive Rear Camber regime of 2013 model?

5) Can a 2013 model Maruti Dezire owner ignores or abandons the Factory rear camber specifications (in positive range for 2013) and adopts a 2011 model Rear camber specification of negative range, and the vehicle still drives good?

6) If no, why not?

7) Do (up to-) 2011 Dezire drivers with 2011 Factory specs have good driving experience during corners or turns in, better and stable in relation to 2013 models ?

8) And do 2013- up Dezire drivers with 2013 Factory specs encounter poorer or more unstable driving experience at relatively higher speed cornering and (left of right) turning?


With humility please be kind to educate me on why Maruti Suzuki factory alters the Rear Camber specification range from Negative regime (2011) to Positive positive (2013) and brainstroms away............

Apologies for this long post, as I wish to be clear and well understood and am really curious about this matter.



Edit: Dear Mods please move this thread accordingly if this isn't an appropriate sub-forum, many Thanks.

[RshE19]

I got wheel alignment and balancing done a few days back as part of regular maintenance. As per the technician, both wheel alignment and balancing were way off although I didn't feel any issues while driving.

Below are the observations after getting the balancing and alignment done:

1. The car is pulling to the left if the steering wheel is untouched.

2. There is a slight tilt in the steering wheel to the left. If the steering wheel is left untouched, it will eventually rotate a little to the left and the car will start going left.

3. The ride is much bouncier than before as if the suspension has gotten softer than before all of a sudden. I have even heard of slight scraping noise over speed bumps which wasn't the case before.

Can all these issues be caused just by faulty alignment done by the technician? Or am I looking at some suspension issues as well?

Please advice.

[zeng]

Originally Posted by RshE19

I got wheel alignment and balancing done a few days back as part of regular maintenance. As per the technician, both wheel alignment and balancing were way off although I didn't feel any issues while driving.

Below are the observations after getting the balancing and alignment done:

1. The car is pulling to the left if the steering wheel is untouched.

2. There is a slight tilt in the steering wheel to the left. If the steering wheel is left untouched, it will eventually rotate a little to the left and the car will start going left.

3. The ride is much bouncier than before as if the suspension has gotten softer than before all of a sudden. I have even heard of slight scraping noise over speed bumps which wasn't the case before.

Can all these issues be caused just by faulty alignment done by the technician? Or am I looking at some suspension issues as well?

Please advice.

Care to upload printout of alignment report for better grasp?

Imho, vehicle pulling left whilst hands off (temporarily, with Caution) the steering wheel and its slight tilting is alignment related or caused by alignment.

Hence the request for upload.

No comment on item 3 whilst awaiting comments from the more knowledgeables on this board.

[heysac]

I recently got the wheel alignment re-done on my Swift P 2010 with 45K kms on the odo. I was too tired that day that I did not pay much attention to the readings. All reading were in green after the adjustment but one was 0.34 (green). Is it important to have all readings under 0.20?

[heysac]

I have been trying to get the alignment corrected after suspension overhaul but the car seems to be out aligned. I am attaching the most recent readings after alignment but the car seems to be going to the left a little now. The running is almost nil so hard to figure out perfectly since no road nearby is good. What (tolerance in reading) should we be pushing the technician to get a good alignment?