[Ajaybiz]

Krato 22-25 is ok if you are buying from grey other wise you have to put more money, if you are not bothered about warrenty n all then check Misrimal at National Market, good guy and keeps all the latest products.
A good installer will charge you 5-7 K including wirings.

[esteem_lover]

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

Ergo, it would still be logical to say that the fuel consumption of the car will vary depending on the thermostat.

Ergo, you are damn right. And Ergo more, I am damn right too, don't you think ?

[shajufx]

Originally Posted by Ajaybiz

Krato 22-25 is ok if you are buying from grey other wise you have to put more money, if you are not bothered about warrenty n all then check Misrimal at National Market, good guy and keeps all the latest products. A good installer will charge you 5-7 K including wirings.

I agree with the price difference an authorised shop with B&W can offer from the national market outlets. Ajay, the installation part I could not understand. Did you mean 5000 to 7000 for installation ?

My total installation cost of ICE was around 500 bucks with the Xplod cable kit of 800 bucks. It was done in 3 parts taking 3 months time (1: HU, front and rear speakers, 2: Four Channel amp and wiring kit, 3: Subwoofer with Box), therefore I had to pay installation charges 3 times, if it was all done in one-time the cost would have come down to just 300 bucks.

If the installation pricing is including custom door enclosures for speakers (required only for component speakers as I understand), expensive wiring kit etc. then it might be reasonable. Curious to know the clarified figures !

[Ajaybiz]

Ya man its 5-7k and that too not includes any custom job just a pure installation with cables and tuning of HU with Amp.Ask Anwar from Auto Fusion, Koramangala.

[Jaggu]

how do i check if the voice coils are bust in a speaker?

obvious krr krr sound came from my rear speakers (one of them), dont know which one or if some dust or likes have got inside. its not continuous but this has been happening once in a while and dont think i should ignore it.

is it a wise idea to move the cone up n down (supporting it on sides, this i have seen some ol sound gurus do) to see if coil is scrappin/off alignment somewhere?

can i turn it upside down and blow the intruder out or something? if any? otherwise how do i determine if the speaker is fine?

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

can i turn it upside down and blow the intruder out or something? if any? otherwise how do i determine if the speaker is fine?

perfect. Just turn it upside down and hit the magnet to dislodge the particles. I also blew using a tetra pak straw around the cone of my coax. If there's lots of dust accumulated then you can't do much. I'm struggling with the same problem.

[Jaggu]

okay i shall wait for some more inputs before i do that, since the speakers are still under warranty. and funny part is, if i remember correct, i noticed this problem in the first week after installation, hope no plastic piece/paper hasnt gone in while installation.

[hydrashok]

@ Jaggu,

1) What car and what make of speakers?

2) Are the speaker grilles the stock ones (the ones in the car itself) or the ones that came with the speakers?

3) Are the speakers mounted on an MDF tray/other tray that the installer fixed, or are they in the stock location?

4) How long has it been since the speakers were installed?

IMHO, either the speakers are bad or the install was bad. Dust accumulation can cause similar sounds, but not within a week of install. After a year of install, maybe. Any way, since speakers are still under warranty, not much problem

[determinus]

Originally Posted by esteem_lover

Ergo, you are damn right. And Ergo more, I am damn right too, don't you think ?

E_L, I guess it is just the difference between cause and root cause, OR truth and absolute truth.

So, blower speed determines how often the compressor is on/off which in turn gets to the FE. That very much answers the initial query. Load on compressor was a doubt purely based on the sound/noise and the whole racket it creates :-)

OK, sorry for the noise. Back to sound.

[shajufx]

Originally Posted by Ajaybiz

Ya man its 5-7k and that too not includes any custom job just a pure installation with cables and tuning of HU with Amp.Ask Anwar from Auto Fusion, Koramangala.

Ok got your point. I think thats a very expensive installation. If I remember correct, Hydra had paid around 11k as total installation including cable and miscellaneous stuff etc. for an ICE that costed around 65k. He might comment about it here.

Here we were talking about Krato's need of ICE installation with a budget of 22-25k. Accordingly, if he keeps 5k for installation, whats left is only 20k or less which would hardly suffice for a good HU, Amp, speakers etc.

Please dont take it as an arguement, I am just collecting more info on the subject, atleast it helps me in later upgrades. Reply and comments grealy appreciated. I have plans to remove my rear speaker boxes and upgrade to components on the front doors with the other set up as it is.

[Jaggu]

1) What car and what make of speakers?

Swift D, JBL

2) Are the speaker grilles the stock ones (the ones in the car itself) or the ones that came with the speakers?

That came with the speaker, and thats a big prob since the grills are not full sized

3) Are the speakers mounted on an MDF tray/other tray that the installer fixed, or are they in the stock location?

mdf tray, installed by professionals

4) How long has it been since the speakers were installed?

5 months

IMHO, either the speakers are bad or the install was bad. Dust accumulation can cause similar sounds, but not within a week of install. After a year of install, maybe. Any way, since speakers are still under warranty, not much problem

my doubt is if something has fallen inside the grill and reached the voice coils, if so how to fix it. swift boot when opened can drop some leaves, twigs etc inside the car. soi wouldn blame the speaker or the installer yet. need to check first whats wrong then move to poa.

worst part is its just once in a while and one cant pull over the car in middle of traffic and figure out in middle of peak traffic :( last occurrence was 2 months back

[Krato]

Originally Posted by shajufx

Ok got your point. I think thats a very expensive installation. If I remember correct, Hydra had paid around 11k as total installation including cable and miscellaneous stuff etc. for an ICE that costed around 65k. He might comment about it here.

Here we were talking about Krato's need of ICE installation with a budget of 22-25k. Accordingly, if he keeps 5k for installation, whats left is only 20k or less which would hardly suffice for a good HU, Amp, speakers etc.

Please dont take it as an arguement, I am just collecting more info on the subject, atleast it helps me in later upgrades. Reply and comments grealy appreciated. I have plans to remove my rear speaker boxes and upgrade to components on the front doors with the other set up as it is.

Hello Shajufx,
I have enquired at the Auto Fusion where the installation charges are 5-7K. The estimated budget that the owner made(with the configuration I mentioned) was around 44K(which is too heavy on my pocket).... The owner has also given me an idea to go for HU, front and rear speakers for the time being and then upgrade to amp and the sub-woofer later on. In that case also, the budget came to around 30K....

I think my choice of system components is quite high end.

Can you please suggest the alternative configuration that I can go for that can fit in my budget of 20-25K ? Can I go for pioneer set of speakers, woofer and an amp ?

I can stretch myself till 30K at the max but 44k is too much for me...

[TURBOSAM]

it all depends upon youe drivind time/ distance.
the a/c compressor is controlled by thermoswitch which has a sensor which is fitted near/ or on the evaporator coil<cooling coil>the switch is triggered by the air temp passing over it and not by the cabin temp .
so if u put the blower to slow+THE BLOWER AIR CIRCULATION AT feet/ face and feet then less quantity of the cabin air is recirculated and cooled again and again. this leads to lesser total air cooling and lesser comp working --- if u keep the blower on high AND position selector on wind shield or up towards the roof then much more air in the cabin is circulated through the cooling coil.
as the total air quantity circulated is more in the second case it will cool more air <with lesser temp drop>and compressor will keeep on working longer till the cut off temp is achived.

Originally Posted by determinus

Please pardon posting this here. It is OT but a bit related:

Would the fuel consumption in a car vary depending on the blower speed of the a/c? Shouldn't an increase in blower speed make the compressor work harder?

[TURBOSAM]

it all depends upon the battery used its amperage rating, the current and duration of the usage etc.
then it depends upon the engine which is to be started AFTER the blasting of music is over . bigger engine with lesser cylinders, diesels,less efficient startor motors. too tall a gear ratio of startor to ring gear will need more reserves at higher voltages and COLD CRANKING AMPERAGE of the battery will define the ability to start the vehicle .

Originally Posted by navin

4 big amps will drain the battery awful fast. Even the idling current of 4 Class AB amps will drain the battery. I would not play such a car system for more than a few minutes (10-15mins) without the engine on. what amps do you friends have?

[Ajaybiz]

ShajuFX No man not at all, even i know many guys who does installation for 300-500 bucks at JC road but chances are there that they may cut few wirings and ECU warrenty voids if any wiring cuts down.And they just install the system they dont know anything about tuning.