[Thad E Ginathom]

It looks like the external elbow could be removed for running the pipe in straight, bending it when it arrives at the internal unit --- then bending the pipe expternal section and maybe reattaching the elbow.

Diagrams simplify. Maybe it doesn't look like that in real life!

[su_madness]

Originally Posted by Guite

I have not used but white glazed ceramic tiles are considered the best. The glossy finish reflects most of the heat. You do not have to buy new tiles. If you have access to used / broken tiles, its economical and achieves its objective.

Originally Posted by Behemoth

I have tried almost all commercial options on this in the past 8 years and have done special Heat reflect paint from dr. Fixit. It lasted for 3 years. After that I did white enamel paint which is a little more expensive but much more effective. It is so bright that my house roof appears very whte and reflective even in Google earth view!

@Guite - Do you mean just pieces laid out or sealed and polished like china mosaic?

@Behemoth - How long does the enamel paint last? is it oil based? i had once tried a water based enamel paint (unusual for enamel), it did not last like other paints. However cement paint seems to adhere slightly better, as in you need to paint less every year, but still you do need to re-coat. How much does dr.fixit come for? i think it is an elastomeric paint.

[Guite]

Originally Posted by graaja

As you can see, there is a PVC pipe through the interior wall that is brought out to the exterior wall. This has an elbow joint on both the ends and my problem is that the copper tube connecting the internal and external AC units cannot be routed through this pipe.

Hope my problem is clear now!

If it is your own house I think you should make an alternate permanent solution. Since pushing a copper pipe through that PVC pipe is out of the question, one possibility is you run the AC pipe horizontally as shown, drop it at corner shown as red dot to required level and then puncture through the wall.

Part of the AC pipes exposed inside the room should then be covered with some interior design detailing. It would also help if you can post photos of relevant locations.

[graaja]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

It looks like the external elbow could be removed for running the pipe in straight, bending it when it arrives at the internal unit --- then bending the pipe expternal section and maybe reattaching the elbow.

Diagrams simplify. Maybe it doesn't look like that in real life!

Actually, the same slanting tiles arrangement is there on the wall where the bent elbow is. So, the elbow is actually hidden and I have to open up the tiles and concrete to remove the elbow.

Originally Posted by Guite

If it is your own house I think you should make an alternate permanent solution. Since pushing a copper pipe through that PVC pipe is out of the question, one possibility is you run the AC pipe horizontally as shown, drop it at corner shown as red dot to required level and then puncture through the wall.

Part of the AC pipes exposed inside the room should then be covered with some interior design detailing. It would also help if you can post photos of relevant locations.

The room is on the south west corner of the house. Below is the photo of the interior where the provision (albeit useless) for AC has been already provided.



The provision for the AC is provided on the north wall of the room. There is a concealed elbow inside the wall and the PVC pipe runs inside the wall. Below is the photo of the top view of the tiles structure taken from my terrace.



This structure is on the west wall. The elbow is actually buried inside the concrete structure and the pipe is projected out. The plan was to mount the external unit on the terrace and bring the copper pipes up. Now that routing the copper pipe through the elbow is ruled out, breaking the structure this side will be difficult as there is no proper access. This will involve building a scaffolding etc. So, I have decided to do the alternate.

Below photo shows the east side wall of the room.



If I make a hole on the wall in the marked place, this will come out of the tile structure on the east wall as shown below. On this side, I have a platform to place the external unit and also there is good access to work on the tile structure.



Guess this is the right thing to do. Let me know your thoughts.

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by graaja

Guess this is the right thing to do. Let me know your thoughts.

Do you have the Ac electrical wiring on the east wall? You might be able to get the copper through the PVC on the north wall by joining rather than bending, if you find a good installer. Same way that one would join the pipe to the IDU.

[Guite]

graaja,

Your alternate solution seems more workable. Your last photo could have shown more towards RHS and towards top of photo. The point where you plan to drill hole may not necessarily come out on the tile structure, it may be below on the wall itself. You can also make an assessment to try to come out below tile structure. You indoor unit level will be low but not too low because it looks like you have a very high ceiling.

If indeed the hole has to come out of the tile structure you have to perfectly align two holes (one on the wall, one on the tile roof) across what looks like a triangular void. Ensure that the hole on the tile roof is lower because your AC drain has to flow by gravity. Put a PVC pipe to connect these two holes, flush / align the pipe tip on the inside, stick out a little bit pipe on the outside. Sticking out the pipe beyond the tile on the outside will help in water sealing the gap between pipe and tile structure.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Guite

[Jaggu]

Go for the alternate solution, remove one tile and use a large concreted drill bit to make a hole. Our house also one AC was installed in a similar manner, the installer came with a 1.5 or 2 inch drill bit and got the hole done in 15 mts

[Thad E Ginathom]

What a shame that the channel was included, but the planning didn't make it actually useable. Very frustrating for you, graaja.

[Aroy]

The internal elbow can be done away with. Cut the wall here and cut the elbow out. The installer will braze a copper elbow here.

For external elbow, again cut the elbow out and route the pipe straight through. A copper elbow will be brazed (as in case of the internal bend) and rest of the copper pipe routed where you want it to be.

This is a standard procedure in all the building we construct.

[vnabhi]

Originally Posted by Guite

graaja,

Your alternate solution seems more workable.
Ensure that the hole on the tile roof is lower because your AC drain has to flow by gravity.

Guite

Very good points indeed. In addition, please remember that the external unit will need maintenance in the long run (I recently had to get gas filled), so having easy access to the unit by service personnel is of paramount importance.

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Go for the alternate solution

Plus one to your views.

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

What a shame that the channel was included, but the planning didn't make it actually useable. Very frustrating for you, graaja.

Exactly my thoughts, Thad!

[gurminder_81]

Like the Engine is the heart(read: most important part) of the car, compressor is the heart of an Air Conditioner. So, check whats the compressor brand inside the AC and its specification. Hitachi compressors are considered to be the best, as lot of folks have already mentioned. If you get this right, chances are you will face less issues with the AC itself.

I have got a 1 Ton Godrej AC with hitachi compressor and it has been running absolutely fine since last 3 years. Servicing was done 2 years back while shifting the house during which I refilled the gas as well. Apart from that we regularly clean the air filters every 2/3 months. No other maintenance.

[graaja]

Originally Posted by diyguy

Do you have the Ac electrical wiring on the east wall? You might be able to get the copper through the PVC on the north wall by joining rather than bending, if you find a good installer. Same way that one would join the pipe to the IDU.

Getting the electrical wiring on the east wall is not a problem. My electrician told me he can do this easily. Re-routing the electrical wires is easier and less risky than finding a skilled installer who can use the set up on the north wall.

Originally Posted by Guite

graaja,

Your alternate solution seems more workable. Your last photo could have shown more towards RHS and towards top of photo. The point where you plan to drill hole may not necessarily come out on the tile structure, it may be below on the wall itself. You can also make an assessment to try to come out below tile structure. You indoor unit level will be low but not too low because it looks like you have a very high ceiling.

If indeed the hole has to come out of the tile structure you have to perfectly align two holes (one on the wall, one on the tile roof) across what looks like a triangular void. Ensure that the hole on the tile roof is lower because your AC drain has to flow by gravity. Put a PVC pipe to connect these two holes, flush / align the pipe tip on the inside, stick out a little bit pipe on the outside. Sticking out the pipe beyond the tile on the outside will help in water sealing the gap between pipe and tile structure.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Guite

Thanks Guite. I checked out if the hole can be brought out of the tile structure. If I have to do this, the AC will have to be located very low at around 6 to 7 feet which will not be good either. So, it has to be through the tile structure. I am talking to many people (my builder, electrician etc) to find out someone who can make the required holes on the concrete structure and the wall.

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Go for the alternate solution, remove one tile and use a large concreted drill bit to make a hole. Our house also one AC was installed in a similar manner, the installer came with a 1.5 or 2 inch drill bit and got the hole done in 15 mts

Thanks Jaggu for the info. It is good to know that this has been done before and all that remains now is for me to find the right guy to do this!

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

What a shame that the channel was included, but the planning didn't make it actually useable. Very frustrating for you, graaja.

You are absolutely right. I was under the impression that it would be an easy job fitting the AC with the provision in place - no holes, no patch up, no paint job. Now that I know this setup is totally useless, I am totally frustrated. The same provision has been done in two rooms (one on the ground floor and one on the first floor). Except for the ugly look, they serve no purpose now

Originally Posted by vnabhi

In addition, please remember that the external unit will need maintenance in the long run (I recently had to get gas filled), so having easy access to the unit by service personnel is of paramount importance.

Thanks vnabhi. That is a very useful point which could save lot of trouble in the future. Having the external unit on the east wall will provide a very easy ccess.

Originally Posted by Aroy

The internal elbow can be done away with. Cut the wall here and cut the elbow out. The installer will braze a copper elbow here.

For external elbow, again cut the elbow out and route the pipe straight through. A copper elbow will be brazed (as in case of the internal bend) and rest of the copper pipe routed where you want it to be.

This is a standard procedure in all the building we construct.

Thanks Aroy. Cutting the internal elbow is not a problem. But to cut the external elbow we have to break the tile structure and as this is about 20 feet above ground, it is a very difficult task. Also, as vnabhi mentioned only the installation to the east side wall will provide an easy access to the external unit.

Thank you all for your inputs. The Team BHP membership is proving to be worth every attempt I made to become a member

[Guite]

Originally Posted by graaja

Thanks Guite. I checked out if the hole can be brought out of the tile structure. If I have to do this, the AC will have to be located very low at around 6 to 7 feet which will not be good either. So, it has to be through the tile structure

Attached sketch shows my impression of what the tile structure may be like. If this is true, be ready for substantial time in civil demolition and repair. If the horizontal slab does not exist, you do not have to cut through the tile roof.

[graaja]

Originally Posted by Guite

Attached sketch shows my impression of what the tile structure may be like. If this is true, be ready for substantial time in civil demolition and repair. If the horizontal slab does not exist, you do not have to cut through the tile roof.

Your diagram is spot on. This is exactly how the tile structure is. And the horizontal slab exists :(

[khoj]

Why not bring the pipes out at a level below the horizontal slab.

Once out, the drain pipe can be dropped down to ground whereas the gas and the return tubes along with the electric cable can be taken upwards to the desired ODU location (the flat space shown in one of your earlier snaps).

Originally Posted by Guite

Attached sketch shows my impression of what the tile structure may be like. If this is true, be ready for substantial time in civil demolition and repair. If the horizontal slab does not exist, you do not have to cut through the tile roof.

Originally Posted by graaja

Your diagram is spot on. This is exactly how the tile structure is. And the horizontal slab exists :(