[rpads1]

There is a thin capillary tube, just before the cooling coils on the indoor unit. If you see frosting there, then the gas topping is required. In your case since this is already done, the mechanic should be looking at the pressures before and after the compressor, maybe the compressor is leaking at the valves.

[NPV]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Last summer I installed the Daikin inverter series. It is much superior both in cooling and in electricity consumption to the three Hitachi which we have installed over the years - 1x5* window, 1x3*Window and 1x2* split.

Which model(s) of Daikin Split Inverter do you have ? Looking at the 2014 model range was wondering if the FTKE25/35 Or FTKD50/60/71F would be better ? These models use the R22 refrigerant but considerably cheaper than the R410A and R32 models. The R32 models aren't available with most dealers here in Bangalore and they expect to receive stock in about 2 weeks.

[gopikb]

Originally Posted by NPV

Which model(s) of Daikin Split Inverter do you have ? Looking at the 2014 model range was wondering if the FTKE25/35 Or FTKD50/60/71F would be better ? These models use the R22 refrigerant but considerably cheaper than the R410A and R32 models. The R32 models aren't available with most dealers here in Bangalore and they expect to receive stock in about 2 weeks.

Hi NPV, I installed a Daikin A/c Inverter R32 Model–FTKV50NRV16 1.5 TR at my home earlier this year. The total cost was Rs.44.5K for the A/c. Installation was extra. I have attached the quote for your reference.

Previously I had a 13 year old Hitachi Window A/c which conked off last year. We have started using the new A/c only from March 15th this year. I will have to wait until April 15th to know the extra cost for power in running this a/c. My usage is 8~10 hours per day.

The a/c has been performing quote good so far. The major difference I noticed is the remarkable improvement in the uniformity of cooling and temperature maintained with the inverter a/c which gives undisturbed sleep compared to the window a/c. Noise is another factor. All the best in your hunt for the suitable a/c.


Daikin_Ac_Quotation.doc

[rpads1]

Originally Posted by Rajeevraj

For the last 5 years, towards the end of March, we start thinking as to: Should we buy an AC for one of the rooms. Our apartment is on the top floor and in the summer it gets uncomfortably hot towards evening and at least till mid night. Every time we think, its needed only for 2-3 months and even with the climatic change, one can manage without AC in Bangalore from June to Feb. This year again the thought has come and with quite a few relatives expected during the summer holidays, we have almost decided to get one. Started doing some online research but the number of choices is huge and confusing. Hence thought of putting my questions here. Any pointers is appreciated.

1. The bedroom is around 130 sq feet. Do I need a 1T or 1.5T?
2. I don't need freezing cooling, just enough to keep the room cool and maybe complement the fan.
3. Usage will mostly be for few hours in the night. Worst case a couple of hours in the afternoon. How much additional hit can I expect on my electricity bill?
3. This room is next to my living room (120 Sq feet). If I install the AC in bedroom and get a 1.5T, will it help provide some level of cooling to the living room also? The living room has a passage that goes on to the rest of the house, hence will the cooling in the living get dissipated easily?
4. Any recommendations on brand and models? I went through the last few pages and see different options like Samsung, LG, Daikin, Voltas.

Thanks in advance.

1. Since considering requirement for point '3' too, a 1.5 TR would suit your needs best.
3. I used to do this. If you have a pedestal fan, keep the bedroom door open, with the pedestal fan at the door, to further propel cool air towards the living room. That way the living room does get cooled without needed to get the bedroom freezing cold. The dissipation via the passage depends on how much air flow is present .

[racer_ash]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

The indoor unit stick out a little length of corrugated copper pipe. One must be careful with this too. Excessive, careless bending can damage the pipe and then you are in serious trouble.

It is for the same reason that I always make sure that the AC mechanic never fiddles with this short peice of tubing jutting out of the indoor unit. It is better to ensure that the walls are drilled far away from these so that there is sufficient bit of straight copper tubing which is attached after this. This prevents this pipe from excessive bending moment.

As you said, it is always better to buy it from an AC accessory shop rather than from the company. I got 3m copper cables each of the two sizes which came with thick insulating material for the entire length. Cost me close to 2600/-. The guy said that the copper is imported from Malaysia and is of the best quality. Took it with a pinch of salt.

[su_madness]

Originally Posted by racer_ash

Outdoor fan capacitor should not be the culprit. The outer fan only helps dissipate heat coming from the indoor unit, If the compressor is running normally and there is no cooling, then the issue must definitely be with low gas levels. In many cases, due to improper installation, gas leaks out in minute quantities especially from the joints and over a certain period of time, this will result in less/no cooling. In case the compressor operation is faulty, then it might be due to a larger issue.

Originally Posted by rpads1

There is a thin capillary tube, just before the cooling coils on the indoor unit. If you see frosting there, then the gas topping is required. In your case since this is already done, the mechanic should be looking at the pressures before and after the compressor, maybe the compressor is leaking at the valves.

Hi all, outdoor fan capacitor was the problem. He replaced it with a new one, and bingo - the chill is back to normal. He explained that the fan was running slower and so heat was not being rejected faster, and hence the low cooling. Am finally relieved, a compressor problem would have been a headache.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by racer_ash

The guy said that the copper is imported from Malaysia and is of the best quality. Took it with a pinch of salt.

He is probably correct. Not that it would make any difference in quality than Indian manufacture. It happens to be cheaper to import than ones manufactured here.

Most air conditioning companies in India import the indoor units, usually contract manufactured by some Chinese company cause they mass produce and hence cheaper to build. Midea is one company that comes to mind.

[rpads1]

Originally Posted by su_madness

Hi all, outdoor fan capacitor was the problem.
=============
Am finally relieved, a compressor problem would have been a headache.

Cool, good to know it got resolved. I thought the fan capacitor was already changed once though, without improvement. Anyway alls well that ends well

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by racer_ash

It is for the same reason that I always make sure that the AC mechanic never fiddles with this short peice of tubing jutting out of the indoor unit. It is better to ensure that the walls are drilled far away from these so that there is sufficient bit of straight copper tubing which is attached after this. This prevents this pipe from excessive bending moment.

As you said, it is always better to buy it from an AC accessory shop rather than from the company. I got 3m copper cables each of the two sizes which came with thick insulating material for the entire length. Cost me close to 2600/-. The guy said that the copper is imported from Malaysia and is of the best quality. Took it with a pinch of salt.

You can check the origin, as the copper tubing normally comes with the particulars stamped on the tubing. If not on it, then the coil packing have it.

India produces very little copper, hence most of it is imported. For most of the tubing it is either Malaysia or China. Good copper tubing is ductile and reasonably soft. Bad tubing is brittle and slightly whitish tinge. When you cut it, the edges will be a bit ragged.

[su_madness]

Originally Posted by Rajeevraj

For the last 5 years, towards the end of March, we start thinking as to: Should we buy an AC for one of the rooms. Our apartment is on the top floor and in the summer it gets uncomfortably hot towards evening and at least till mid night. Every time we think, its needed only for 2-3 months and even with the climatic change, one can manage without AC in Bangalore from June to Feb. This year again the thought has come and with quite a few relatives expected during the summer holidays, we have almost decided to get one. Started doing some online research but the number of choices is huge and confusing. Hence thought of putting my questions here. Any pointers is appreciated.

1. The bedroom is around 130 sq feet. Do I need a 1T or 1.5T?
2. I don't need freezing cooling, just enough to keep the room cool and maybe complement the fan.
3. Usage will mostly be for few hours in the night. Worst case a couple of hours in the afternoon. How much additional hit can I expect on my electricity bill?
3. This room is next to my living room (120 Sq feet). If I install the AC in bedroom and get a 1.5T, will it help provide some level of cooling to the living room also? The living room has a passage that goes on to the rest of the house, hence will the cooling in the living get dissipated easily?
4. Any recommendations on brand and models? I went through the last few pages and see different options like Samsung, LG, Daikin, Voltas.

Thanks in advance.

If you are living on the top floor, you could paint the roof white - it works very well. We do it every year and the hot oven feel goes away. Does any body have an idea of what paint lasts better? We use white cement paint, stays a little better than commercial available choona with fevicol and some crystal available in the pack. Has anybody used white tiles on the roof? have heard few people are using it, would be a permanent solution. Elastomeric paints are expensive, around 20rs per sqft while cement n choona come for 1-2rs per sqft.

An iitb person claims that white cement, dolomite powder and nano acrylate lasts long and is cheap, any idea where to source dolomite powder? And if tiles, wouldn't vitrified be a better option as water absorption would be low.

[graaja]

I bought a Daikin 1.8T R32 series Inverter AC model FTKV60NRV16. Paid 53.7K. Thank you all for your valuable inputs and guidance.

Today, the guys came for installation and there is a problem.

During the construction of the house, the builders made a provision for installation of the AC. The wall on which the AC is an internal wall. So, they have provided a 3" concealed PVC pipe on the wall which is brought out on the external wall. Due to some obstacles, this PVC pipe has one elbow joint on each end. The AC installation guys say it is not possible to pull the copper pipe through the two elbow joints as the copper pipe is very thick. The copper pipe has a dimension of about 3/4" outer diameter and is quite strong (they are charging me Rs.350/ft. for this tube). It would definitely not be possible to pull this tube through the elbow joints.

The only option left to me now is to move the AC to the external wall and punch a hole. The trouble with this approach is that this wall is covered with the sloping tiles and I have to break the tiles and the concrete to do this. I would like to explore all other possibilities before doing this.

I have a few questions:

1. Is there any other flexible copper pipe that can be routed through a bent PVC pipe?
2. Does any other member here have an AC mounted on an inner wall and had to route the copper pipe to an external wall? How did you manage this?
3. What is the nominal price of copper pipe? As this is my first AC I am not sure if Rs.350/ft is the right price. The quality of the pipe looks very good though.

Thank you in advance for all the guidance.

[Turbanator]

Is there any other flexible copper pipe that can be routed through a bent PVC pipe?

looks difficult , do you have false ceiling in which case you can route the pipes through roof .

[graaja]

Originally Posted by Turbanator

looks difficult , do you have false ceiling in which case you can route the pipes through roof .

Thanks for the reply, Turbanator. I dont have a false ceiling, so that option is ruled out as well. I also got a second opinion from another AC installer and he also confirmed it is not possible to take the copper tube through the bent pipe. So it has to be the harder way :(

[Guite]

Originally Posted by su_madness

Has anybody used white tiles on the roof? have heard few people are using it, would be a permanent solution. Elastomeric paints are expensive, around 20rs per sqft while cement n choona come for 1-2rs per sqft.

I have not used but white glazed ceramic tiles are considered the best. The glossy finish reflects most of the heat. You do not have to buy new tiles. If you have access to used / broken tiles, its economical and achieves its objective.

[Rajeevraj]

Originally Posted by vina

My advice:

1. Bangalore = you don't really need AC more than for (perhaps) end-Mar to mid-Jun; once rains stat the roof will also cool down, especially at nights. This means you need something to augment the already rather nice weather.)

Originally Posted by rpads1

1. Since considering requirement for point '3' too, a 1.5 TR would suit your needs best.
3. I used to do this. If you have a pedestal fan, keep the bedroom door open, with the pedestal fan at the door, to further propel cool air towards the living room. That way the living room does get cooled without needed to get the bedroom freezing cold. The dissipation via the passage depends on how much air flow is present .

Originally Posted by su_madness

If you are living on the top floor, you could paint the roof white - it works very well. We do it every year and the hot oven feel goes away. Does any body have an idea of what paint lasts better? We use white cement paint, stays a little better than commercial available choona with fevicol and some crystal available in the pack. Has anybody used white tiles on the roof? have heard few people are using it, would be a permanent solution. Elastomeric paints are expensive, around 20rs per sqft while cement n choona come for 1-2rs per sqft.

Thanks for the valuable inputs. Considering the limited usage, I am now looking at other simpler options. I am on the top floor and the main challenge is to make that oven like feel during late evening and night go away. I also heard that white paint is a good option. Exploring that also.