[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by teefosi

1. So should I put a starter and remove the voltage correctors because the correctors dont trip the a/c when the voltage is low or you are suggesting I should put both.

2. The other thing which I have noticed is when the voltage is 180 the spilt a/c works but the window a/c doesn't.

1. If you must have a corrector/stabilizer then putting a starter on top is not a bad idea. In my house I have starters on all the points which are or may be used for Aircons.

2. Not unusual. Some Acs are more forgiving. Obviously the window unit needs a higher voltage to start. Is that the split has a rotary compressor while the window has a reciprocating compressor. If so when it tries to start the voltage drop is more.

[teefosi]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

1. If you must have a corrector/stabilizer then putting a starter on top is not a bad idea. In my house I have starters on all the points which are or may be used for Aircons.

2. Not unusual. Some Acs are more forgiving. Obviously the window unit needs a higher voltage to start. Is that the split has a rotary compressor while the window has a reciprocating compressor. If so when it tries to start the voltage drop is more.

I dont think the window one has a reciprocating compressor, its a whirlpool a/c and as far as I remember they used to make rotary ones. But because of the voltage issue I am not able to use that a/c. Is it ok to run the spilt a/c on 180 voltage?

And I am asking you again since the voltage is everyday low in the sector I live (its normally 180) should I stick to the corrector or remove them and just put starters. And what is the range of the starter at which it would trip.

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by teefosi

I dont think the window one has a reciprocating compressor, its a whirlpool a/c and as far as I remember they used to make rotary ones. But because of the voltage issue I am not able to use that a/c. Is it ok to run the spilt a/c on 180 voltage?

And I am asking you again since the voltage is everyday low in the sector I live (its normally 180) should I stick to the corrector or remove them and just put starters. And what is the range of the starter at which it would trip.

If you have stabilizers keep them. Add starters though. If your AC is 1.5TR you can use either 10 or 15A starters. See what you can get. Do not exceed 15A, though 20A used to be the norm about 15 or so years ago. Just look at the rating of the AC and go 2x. One or two of my old ones have a screwdriver adjustment for the trip current.

[Aroy]

If your voltage dips to 100V and the stabilizer attempts to correct it, you may have problems when the voltage comes back to 200V+. The stabilizer is not fast enough and the electronics in the AC will blow.

A stabilizer helps only when there is a consistent high/low voltage (but not fluctuating voltage).

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by Aroy

If your voltage dips to 100V and the stabilizer attempts to correct it, you may have problems when the voltage comes back to 200V+. .....

Any good stabilizer will cut off at around 160 Volts and at 280 volts at the higher end. It will only stabilize between these voltages.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by anupmathur

Any good stabilizer will cut off at around 160 Volts and at 280 volts at the higher end. It will only stabilize between these voltages.

The cutoff is dicy and I have experienced equipment blowing due to the stabilizer not responding fast enough, nor cutting off. The only sure shot cutoff is when you have a cutoff that responds within one cycle. In motors and other electrical equipment a short duration voltage surge is weathered, but electronic equipment blows with voltage spikes.

[sgiitk]

Satbilizers are dodgy pieces of hardware. I remember when I was in service, once I checked out not only the relay type but also servo stabilizers. 90% of servo units which were over five years old were dicey. I must say I did find one servo unit which was over 40 years old still functional. This was an Aplab and is about 3x costlier than the others.

@ARoy; @anupmathur; what you are worried about is only partly true. A spike can bust the electronics, but the compressors will take it. Normally local variations are due to excessive loading of the transformers. So I still feel a starter plus a stabilizer (if necessary) should do. In fact I used to recommend a manual stabilizer which you set to the proper range for areas with a chronic low or high voltage problem. But this case is not in that category.

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by Aroy

... The only sure shot cutoff is when you have a cutoff that responds within one cycle.......

It is not as bad as you make it sound. Manufacturers also take into account household voltage spikes created by any heavy appliance switching on and off, and they design their equipment to withstand these. We have many electronics based gadgets in use at home, and none are protected with spike guards. Yet, the failure rate has been almost zero.
Poor quality voltage stabilizers do more harm than good. Many years ago, I lost an AC compressor because the stabilizer (brand Electrom) sent it 320 volts due to a welded relay contact. No stabilizers in my home since that day; I use only Sollatek voltage protectors with the ACs and fridges.

[ddriver]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

Best of luck. I hope Hitachi service does not let you down. That is their achilles heel.

Normal. The bread-and-butter is the 1.5TR followed by the 1.0TR. So that is where all the effort in R&D goes. Others like 2TR are not that significant for the vendors.

Yes you were right in a sense! After installation and working for two days, it started making some strange hissing sound and sometimes whistling sound. I called dealer 3 times and everytime nobody turned up. Than I wrote to Corporate Office based in Mohan Cooperative Estate, Delhi and spoke to customer care.
Next day the engineer came and told us that they got our complaint for the first time yesterday only. I immediately called the dealer and took his happiness.
After investigation they found one bolt of the blower is loose, so they change the complete blower setup and now it is working fine.
The engineers told that dealers and vendors does not support and has indifferent attitude. So took his number for future worries.

As far EER is concerned it is indeed 4.61, which is really good. In fact If I run it for a year for around 15 hours average daily, it will consume only 1600 units per year.
In fact it is the most efficient machine in 2 tonne range!

[kalpeshc]

Typically we do not run the split ACs during monsoons as the temperature is quite pleasant and one does not need ACs. During the last service, the technician informed me that inverter ACs need to run at least for 15 minutes every week otherwise the gas pressure builds up in the unit and it can cause serious accidents!

Is this true? Do ACs have to run for 20-30 mins every week.

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by kalpeshc

... the technician informed me that inverter ACs need to run at least for 15 minutes every week otherwise the gas pressure builds up in the unit and it can cause serious accidents!
...

Complete crap! The gas pressure is highest with an AC running, not when it is idle! That is true for ALL ACs.

[sgiitk]

@anupmathur; I agree 100%. The gas pressure in the system equilibrates when off. . When running it is high in the discharge side of the compressor, and low in the suction side.

[kalpeshc]

But considering that at the end of the day, it's an electronic equipment, does 3-4 months of inactivity have any negative effect on the appliance?

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by kalpeshc

But considering that at the end of the day, it's an electronic equipment, does 3-4 months of inactivity have any negative effect on the appliance?

None whatsoever, within 'normal' storage conditions of about neg 20ºC to +70ºC and RH not more than 80% non-condensing.

[diyguy]

I've heard that the condenser oil could have some issue if not run occasionally. I had ice formations on the condenser of my hitachi window and was told that this was because of long periods of non-use.