[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by joybird

Great video Tanveer.
Did you source the Cree 60w bar from outside and did the fitting yourself? I planned for a single bar for my Pajero as well but wasn't sure should I go for it or no. Recently did a 6500kms road trip from Chandigarh to Goa and back via Hyderabad and many times while driving at night felt the need for a center single multi LED bar. I have a Pair of Hella Micro FF installed but the Cree in your video will beat anything.
This year planning for Sikkim, Arunachal etc. so money spent on a decent LED bar will not go wasted

Hi
I sourced it directly from manufacturer. I got the contact from a laser group buy I participated in on an international forum(now you know, I like lightsabers too ).
However, if you want, you can look at the other thread. I have given some ebay links and some seller links. you can get it from dealextreme too.

I earlier had halogen aux lamps on the vehicle, and I used the same wiring direct from battery with a 20A fuse.

Once I fit my 60W (12W*5), my offroad lighting needs will be totally complete
If you want a single light bar, I suggest go for atleast 80W.

Make sure you try and get something with true flood when its combo beam. If you are getting frosted glass, thats diffuser, not true flood. So get a spot beam only.
True floods alter the distance between the lens and LED to generate wider beam.
The light bar in this thread has a diffuser for flood. Mine also has the same, but I am not a big fan of diffuser as it kills some light.

The identification of true flood is that the glass in front of LED is not frosted, but clear, will try and post a picture soon.
EDIT: Done. Please see post https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modif...ml#post3347410 (Review: 60W Cree LED Light Bar)

[gps]

Hi All,

Just received the parcel after a long wait


First impressions:

+ Packaging box is decent. Basically the product box within a bubble-wrap lined envelope. Parts dont move inside, so transit damages should not be concern.

+ Item is heavy (bulb maybe about 25-30 grams per piece, maybe slightly more) so its probably made out of solid block of aluminium. Will measure when I reach home.

- Wires connecting leds are routed through recesses in bulb body. one wire on a bulb is slightly loose (see the green wire jumping out of its rececss), but since its not going to be around moving parts it should be ok.

- Not sure about quality of the wires (in the bulb). They may not endure lot of heat. Also, not sure about actual temperatures, so they may not need to..

No more info right now, as I am in office..

Will try to put it on, and will post comparisons as soon as possible (That may mean a couple of days). For now, only few pics to keep you interested.

[gps]

OK.. couldn't wait.. so took some time out from lunch and popped one in right headlight assembly just for testing, and quick compare..

+ Works
+ Brighter.
+ No extra glare as far as I can tell. very similar throw pattern, and cut-off in low beam.
+ after 5 minutes continuous low beam, cool enough (but barely) to still take it out with hands
-may not have enough space behind fan when dust cover is installed. yet to check this

Yet to do:
1) more exhaustive comparison.
2) figure out proper mounting for that "adapter"

Any advice on above two is most welcome.
I figure I can stick that adapter with velcro on the back of headlight
assembly, next to the dust cover. Not yet sure how to route cables, but probably through dust cover (maybe through a hole in dust cover)


Attached pics for high/low beam from a distance of about 15 feet

[gps]

For benefit of anyone else who gets interested in this..

Customs declaration:



Customs stamp:



Product Details:

Weight:

Bulb weight: 56 g each,
Fan weight: 17 g each,
Adapter weight: 99 g each



Install details to follow.

[gps]

More info:

I opened the adapter and there is some circuit inside. I am guessing its a dual constant-current driver for LEDs. The casing is made of aluminium, and circuit is stuck onto the body with heat-conducting glue, so body is acting as sink.

Sorry for not taking a photo of the circuit. will do if I open it up again (improbable though)


Install process:

While deciding how to install, I needed to answer two questions:

1. How to route the cables through the dust cap
2. How/Where to mount the adapter

1.

Adapter has 3 cables: for H4 socket, for LED bulb, and for fan. There is no way to route these cables with dust cap on.

I did not want to remove dust cap permanently.

So I decided to drill 3 holes into the dust cap for passing cables through. Dust cap itself is made of flexible strong rubber, so after drilling holes, I pushed bulb and fan cables through it with some effort. The H4 socket is huge, so I decided to dismantle it which was easy.

Cables fit snug into the holes (lucky me) so hopefully innards of headlight wont get any more dusty than stock halogens.

Took some photos along the process.

2.

I found that on the back of exterior surface on headlight assembly, there is some flat space.

I have some decent velcro lying around, so thought this was the best fit.

final install looks like this:

Right:



Left:



The visible blue line is sheet of velcro. The circuit inside adapter casing is stuck to the other side of velcro so less heat is expected to reach velcro.

There was (just) enough space for fan before dust cover.
Have driven about 15-20 km since install and it looks mechanically stable.

Stay tuned for functional review.

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by gps

More info:
Stay tuned for functional review.

Thanks gps for the details.

When doing the functional review the best way is to park the car in front of a wall atleast 20 metres away if not more.

On one side have the LED bulbs and other side have the stock ones. Cover one side with a cloth and check the throw against the wall as well as beam pattern.

Take a pic of the throw on the wall and not of the one facing the car. This will tell you how much brighter the LED is and how the throw is.

Since the light source has changed the focal length to the reflector is now different. Depending on the change in focal length, the beam may be out of focus completely. This needs to be checked.

[tsk1979]

Hi gps
When you are doing light testing, make sure not to trust your eyes. Our eyes are very inaccurate when it comes to judging brightness.
The best way is to use a lux meter, and measure lux at a dark place at 20 meters.
However, in absence of lux meter, do not use your smartphone. Its horribly inaccurate. Instead, put a camera to manual settings, fix the aperture an shutter speed and ISO, and then take pics.
Once with normal, and once with LED.

Other thing to do is, stand in front of the car, but towards the drivers side, about 10 meters from the car, and 3 meters "drivers side wards".

Then take a picture. This will tell you about the spill. Spill is the useless light component. If the LED source and the halogen source are not aligned, you will see useless light spill(reflectors are designed for the stock halogens)

[sagarpadaki]

I would suggest you put silicone glue, the one which is used to seal headlamps, in and around the hole you have made in the rubber headlamp cap .Seal the hole from inside and outside for added protection. Very tiny dust particles can still go through the holes you have made and will end up settling on the reflector over a period of time.

[gps]

Hi All,

I've been testing LED bulbs for past week. Although its brighter, I am not able to get the light focussed properly.

comparison pics are attached after dropping in led in housing, without any setting changes.

Basically, the cut-off is *NOT sharp*, and there is no significant light up front without high beam.

The high beam itself is not well focussed, so throw at moderate-to-long distance is not helpful.

I believe it will work better with some focus adjustment, but I dont know how to do that. I've rotated some screws in car and they move beam left-right or up-down. I'm not sure if there is a way of moving bulb fwd-reverse to allow to focus it. If anyone here knows how to do that, please let me know.

Overall, I DO NOT RECOMMEND this or similar product to others. I hope I can come back and edit this line

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by gps

Hi All,

I've been testing LED bulbs for past week. Although its brighter, I am not able to get the light focussed properly.

comparison pics are attached after dropping in led in housing, without any setting changes.

Basically, the cut-off is *NOT sharp*, and there is no significant light up front without high beam.
..
..


Overall, I DO NOT RECOMMEND this or similar product to others. I hope I can come back and edit this line

Actually I was expecting this. When you posted the first pic, I knew this will happen. Look at the scatter.
And its not a bug. Its a feature. Your reflector is designed precisely for a normal H4 bulb, taking its filament design and pattern in mind. Now you are putting in a light source of different dimensions in the same reflector.
Even slight misalignment can result in totally different results.

This is the reason HIDs or LEDs in your standard H4 designed reflector or projector won't work at all.

Scatter also has more side effects. There is so much light near the car that it kills your night vision, resulting in poorer visibility at distance, This means bad tidings for highway night driving.

[IshaanIan]

LEDs, HIDs etc in reflectors are indeed as pointed out, a bad idea. This is why projector lenses are recommended. Plus they prove less blinding for oncoming traffic and let you have a proper cut-off and focused beam, all without having to worry about fading reflectors.

Do keep us posted.
Cheers!

[gps]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Its a feature. Your reflector is designed precisely for a normal H4 bulb, taking its filament design and pattern in mind. Now you are putting in a light source of different dimensions in the same reflector.

Well.. Only reason I got interested in the product is because of similarity in size and position of H4 filaments v/s leds due to new design, and hence there was a some possibility this would work properly in reflector housing.

Atleast you all can thank me for saving some everyone's money

[~ H O N D A ~]

I am going to china next week and i am planning to import LED Light Bar 21 inch


21 Inch 120W Led Bar


40W LED Bar

Planning to install in my Verna Fludic

will my verna battery take 120w Load or should i buy a 100W

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by ~ H O N D A ~

I am going to china next week and i am planning to import LED Light Bar 21 inch
Attachment 1207352

21 Inch 120W Led Bar

Attachment 1207353
40W LED Bar

Planning to install in my Verna Fludic

will my verna battery take 120w Load or should i buy a 100W

Whats your alternator capacity?
120W is approx 10A
I think 10A extra should be fine.
However remember
1. Try and buy something with 10W each LED. So 12LED single row bar is good
2. You can buy 2*60W bars, these will be more compact, and easier to mount at two different locations.
3. Make sure whatever you buy in light bar series is "spot beam". LEDs have good spread anyways, spot beam is best. Flood will just blind everyone without showing you much road
4. Also get a Bar which is IP67 atleast.
5. Make sure your bar has reflectors + lens combo. In single row series, this combo is the best.
6. A 60W bar non branded generic manufacturer should not cost more than 65 USD for 60W, and 120 USD for 120W.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by ~ H O N D A ~

I am going to china next week and i am planning to import LED Light Bar 21 inch

21 Inch 120W Led Bar

40W LED Bar

Planning to install in my Verna Fludic

will my verna battery take 120w Load or should i buy a 100W

If you connect it directly to battery with a separate switch and relay it can easily take till 150 watts

But trust me 120W will be insane . It will blind everyone on road and you can get pulled over by cops and fined