White Smoke Update
The SVC sent a mech home last Monday to check the bike, and on starting in front of him (again standing since my last update here) it was not smoking at all. Funny.
Anyways he gave me a print out which had been sent for me by the Bajaj folk which explains the exact same phenomenon of white smoke and it seems its a normal auto choke (stepper motor) issue (rich mixture).
Instead of sending the bike to the workshop with him I planned to visit to the SVC myself on Sunday to get the oil drained and checked for coolant contamination as well as drain quantity, condition, viscosity etc. Also get the oil level window cleaned from inside (there are whitish residues/deposits the mech called "sulphation" ?).
Meanwhile based on my feedback from different sources, both riders and mechs, have dropped the plan of getting the slipper clutch retrofitted. Not just not wanting to lose the hard engine braking while approaching a corner and shifting down, but also my continuing reluctance to getting a factory fitted untouched engine needlessly opened and fiddled with just to get the latest shiny do-da.
The bottom line from good riders (track, Lavasa, etc.) is that the riding styles for conventional and slipper clutch need adjusting, change.
Conventional clutch = hard in, not as hard out. Very late, adjustments. Point and shoot. Depending on rider, more street racer, real road oriented.
Slipper clutch = not as hard in, harder out. Not as late, smoother inputs, wider arc cornering. Depending on rider, more track/perfect tarmac/predictable-to-sparse traffic oriented.
Hope that explains in my non-technical amateur manner. Am open to and welcoming of the inputs of others, especially those who have ridden both clutches, as the decision for me is not yet wholly solidified.
Started the bike yesterday. No smoke seen. Dusted in, topped up the air, filled some fuel, and started for the SVC in Wagholi (new one, but run by the same guys as my older one in Kothrud, wanted to check it out as well). Bike was running great. No smoke. Pulling like a horse. Very peppy. Felt great riding it after such a long hiatus mainly riding Doppie. Just the braking (front) seems to have developed more of a lever pull to get the same effect. More on that later.
The oil was drained, was clean, no coolant. Good viscosity still (been a year since the last change, but less than 3000 kms, but will change it after a couple of rides once am sure the level is not falling). Level was also ok (1300+ ml drained; 1.4 l is what they fill, but about 100 ml remains in the oil filter chamber, so everything fine there on that score). The coolant was topped up a tad, nothing major. The level was a lot lower on a standing cold bike. But at the SVC it showed its normal level a cm below the upper mark.
The oil window was checked carefully. There was no “sulphation” or any such. Basically just heat baked residue (probably oil weep) on the OUTSIDE on the glass that was scraped/cleaned off as best as possible. The new bikes have a max and min level mark on the crankcase alongside the window. Nothing like that in my bike (Nov 2013). I guess just need to be able to see an oil level in the window, or should it be in the center of the circle? Mine is a bit lower than center.
Air filter cleaned, battery checked and found ok. Chain cleaned and lubed. Tool kit restraining O rings replaced (had hardened and started fraying).
Got the front pads checked and cleaned. Pads are fine, lots of life left. Basically with armored full gauntlet gloves, the inner (middle) finger comes in the way of single (index) finger braking, by not allowing the lever movement beyond a point and the brakes are now not biting before that point and getting actuated. No problem with two finger (index and middle) braking. Though a single finger is more than sufficient pressure wise, but the lever movement (and possibly the shape/curve) is an issue. Any inputs on this?
I’m a little wary of asking them to drain and replace the brake fluid for fear of some added hitherto non existing issues (bubble, sponginess, etc.) for something which just needs an added finger.
Cheers, Doc
P.S. What are the new changes on the 2015 bikes over our older late 2013 390's which are easily retro-fittable to our bikes and most bang for buck/functionally needed/goo-to-have?
I checked out the small plastic tank top for the rear monoshock spring as well as the plastic pieces on the inside of the fork legs. Also the reflectors on the fork leg sides.
Don't find the new grips any better than my current ones to be honest. Enough to ant to change them, that is. Anyways, with gloves, all's fine.