[RiderZone]

Originally Posted by mehuel

17000 on rear one I am truly amazed. Mine has completed a little over 7000 kms and its on the way out.

Originally Posted by ashwin1224

Teach us your ways master!

The last few weeks I've been doing track days on my 390 with MRF front and Michelin rear, no trouble at all, even with 46.8 degree lean.

However, during these track days I realized why my tires work well over so many kilometers, I never even used 50% of my bike's capacity! After 40,000 kms, I didn't even know my bike could accelerate this hard, stop this quick, and turn so well.

Over the last 6 years, I have developed extremely strong survival instincts. Being a tourer, they have helped me stay alive all over the country and beyond, but that also means that I'm a rather slow, calculated rider, for whom it's physically impossible to rip the bike like some of the "young" folk seem to nowadays.

And that ladies and gentlemen is my secret, I'm always far below the limits :-D

[ashwin1224]

... Being a tourer...

I extracted every bit of fun I could from the metz so that I could replace them with michelins and tour. Metz dont make for good tourers on our roads. After youve felt them at their limits at least.

[ebonho]

White Smoke Update

The SVC sent a mech home last Monday to check the bike, and on starting in front of him (again standing since my last update here) it was not smoking at all. Funny.

Anyways he gave me a print out which had been sent for me by the Bajaj folk which explains the exact same phenomenon of white smoke and it seems its a normal auto choke (stepper motor) issue (rich mixture).



Instead of sending the bike to the workshop with him I planned to visit to the SVC myself on Sunday to get the oil drained and checked for coolant contamination as well as drain quantity, condition, viscosity etc. Also get the oil level window cleaned from inside (there are whitish residues/deposits the mech called "sulphation" ?).

Meanwhile based on my feedback from different sources, both riders and mechs, have dropped the plan of getting the slipper clutch retrofitted. Not just not wanting to lose the hard engine braking while approaching a corner and shifting down, but also my continuing reluctance to getting a factory fitted untouched engine needlessly opened and fiddled with just to get the latest shiny do-da.

The bottom line from good riders (track, Lavasa, etc.) is that the riding styles for conventional and slipper clutch need adjusting, change.
Conventional clutch = hard in, not as hard out. Very late, adjustments. Point and shoot. Depending on rider, more street racer, real road oriented.
Slipper clutch = not as hard in, harder out. Not as late, smoother inputs, wider arc cornering. Depending on rider, more track/perfect tarmac/predictable-to-sparse traffic oriented.

Hope that explains in my non-technical amateur manner. Am open to and welcoming of the inputs of others, especially those who have ridden both clutches, as the decision for me is not yet wholly solidified.

Started the bike yesterday. No smoke seen. Dusted in, topped up the air, filled some fuel, and started for the SVC in Wagholi (new one, but run by the same guys as my older one in Kothrud, wanted to check it out as well). Bike was running great. No smoke. Pulling like a horse. Very peppy. Felt great riding it after such a long hiatus mainly riding Doppie. Just the braking (front) seems to have developed more of a lever pull to get the same effect. More on that later.

The oil was drained, was clean, no coolant. Good viscosity still (been a year since the last change, but less than 3000 kms, but will change it after a couple of rides once am sure the level is not falling). Level was also ok (1300+ ml drained; 1.4 l is what they fill, but about 100 ml remains in the oil filter chamber, so everything fine there on that score). The coolant was topped up a tad, nothing major. The level was a lot lower on a standing cold bike. But at the SVC it showed its normal level a cm below the upper mark.

The oil window was checked carefully. There was no “sulphation” or any such. Basically just heat baked residue (probably oil weep) on the OUTSIDE on the glass that was scraped/cleaned off as best as possible. The new bikes have a max and min level mark on the crankcase alongside the window. Nothing like that in my bike (Nov 2013). I guess just need to be able to see an oil level in the window, or should it be in the center of the circle? Mine is a bit lower than center.

Air filter cleaned, battery checked and found ok. Chain cleaned and lubed. Tool kit restraining O rings replaced (had hardened and started fraying).

Got the front pads checked and cleaned. Pads are fine, lots of life left. Basically with armored full gauntlet gloves, the inner (middle) finger comes in the way of single (index) finger braking, by not allowing the lever movement beyond a point and the brakes are now not biting before that point and getting actuated. No problem with two finger (index and middle) braking. Though a single finger is more than sufficient pressure wise, but the lever movement (and possibly the shape/curve) is an issue. Any inputs on this?

I’m a little wary of asking them to drain and replace the brake fluid for fear of some added hitherto non existing issues (bubble, sponginess, etc.) for something which just needs an added finger.

Cheers, Doc

P.S. What are the new changes on the 2015 bikes over our older late 2013 390's which are easily retro-fittable to our bikes and most bang for buck/functionally needed/goo-to-have?

I checked out the small plastic tank top for the rear monoshock spring as well as the plastic pieces on the inside of the fork legs. Also the reflectors on the fork leg sides.

Don't find the new grips any better than my current ones to be honest. Enough to ant to change them, that is. Anyways, with gloves, all's fine.

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

P.S. What are the new changes on the 2015 bikes over our older late 2013 390's which are easily retro-fittable to our bikes and most bang for buck/functionally needed/goo-to-have?

I have personally felt the seats from the 2015 390s could be a good retro-fit. More padding can't certainly be bad.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by ebonho

P.S. What are the new changes on the 2015 bikes over our older late 2013 390's which are easily retro-fittable to our bikes and most bang for buck/functionally needed/goo-to-have?

I checked out the small plastic tank top for the rear monoshock spring as well as the plastic pieces on the inside of the fork legs. Also the reflectors on the fork leg sides.
..

I have fixed the splash guard for the rear shock unit from the 2015 bikes on my 2013 390. I was unsure of the extent to which it will work, but I must say that it works way better than my expectations in preventing muck flying into the rear spring and damper. The picture taken after a heavy rain ride should give you an idea.



The splash guard cost only Rs 45 and if you are planning to install it, make sure you buy extra long 10mm bolt which comes with it. The stock bolt is too short.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

I have fixed the splash guard for the rear shock unit from the 2015 bikes on my 2013 390.

......

The splash guard cost only Rs 45 and if you are planning to install it, make sure you buy extra long 10mm bolt which comes with it. The stock bolt is too short.

Thanks, that helps. Just wish there was some rain this year to make me feel like putting it.

How about the fork leg shrouds - did you fit those as well? How do those help?

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by ebonho

How about the fork leg shrouds - did you fit those as well? How do those help?

Nop. That was not in stock. I guess those should also work on the same lines as this. The main aim is to prevent mud splash to the sliding inner tube of the fork thus preventing damage to the inner seals due to those fine sand particles.

[Cyborg]

Originally Posted by ebonho

What are the new changes on the 2015 bikes over our older late 2013 390's which are easily retro-fittable to our bikes and most bang for buck/functionally needed/good-to-have?

Hi Doc,

Here are the upgrades on the 2015 KTM Duke 390 :
1) Slipper clutch
2) Change in the front fender design
3) Rear fender gets better structural material
4) Sealed indicators to avoid water seepage
5) Heating dissipation to the bottom with radiator fan assembly changed
6) Rear shock absorber with dust cover (the visible metal part inside the spring is covered with a plastic casing)
7) Rear spring gets flap protector
8) Stiffened front seat assembly to avoid touching air filter housing
9) Changes in Speedometer logic to avoid abrupt zero position on the run and accommodates new service interval of 7500 kms
10) RH switch changed to accommodate the new throttle grip angle effectively
11) Rear mud cover wider in size like on the RC
12) Chain cover height increased to prevent slapping of chain
13) Changes in belly pan mounts
14) New hand grips carried over from the RC series
15) Silencer mounting rubber damper changed to reduce vibrations
16) Spark plug gap has been decreased to 0.8 mm from 1 mm
17) Connecting rod now gets a bush at the small end for added strength
18) New sealed bearings to avoid oil leakage at the output shaft
19) New collar sprocket
20) Increase in oil seal output shaft diameter from 25 to 26 to accommodate new collar

This info is on Motorbeam, link below:
http://www.motorbeam.com/2015/02/bik...xtpXMipjjSq.99

Cheers

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by ebonho

White Smoke Update

The SVC sent a mech home last Monday to check the bike, and on starting in front of him (again standing since my last update here) it was not smoking at all. Funny.

Anyways he gave me a print out which had been sent for me by the Bajaj folk which explains the exact same phenomenon of white smoke and it seems its a normal auto choke (stepper motor) issue (rich mixture).

Attachment 1411482

Interesting.

Not to be argumentative but I know of nothing dealing with a rich air/fuel mixture that would cause white smoke to be emitted from the exhaust on a cold startup. Black smoke yes, white smoke, no.

Had they said the white smoke was from condensation that had collected in the silencer and it was just steam caused by the heat of the exhaust boiling off the water I would believe that.
This condensation thing is a common occurrence during cold weather (but rarely during the hot summer.)

It reminds me of my old BMW K-75 and the massive amounts of smoke it would emit on the first startup of the day.

For those not familiar with the K-75 and K-100, the engine is a DOHC, water cooled, fuel injected engine. The cylinders are on the left side and are parallel with the ground. In other words, the engine is laying on its side.

Because of this, the early K-75's often leaked a small amount of oil past the piston rings over night and this oil would burn off during the first start of the day.

When I complained to the BMW dealer he said (with a very German accent),
"This is a horizontal engine. All horizontal engines burn oil when they first start."

When I mentioned that there were millions of Volkswagen beetles on the roads with horizontal engines and they don't burn oil when they start my comment was met with a frown and silence.

Later K model BMW's (and the R models) revised their piston rings to eliminate this problem.

[VijayAnand1]

Glad to see the issue solved, for now Doc. I hope.

Cheers!
VJ

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Cyborg

Hi Doc,

Here are the upgrades on the 2015 KTM Duke 390 :
10) RH switch changed to accommodate the new throttle grip angle effectively

Thanks Cyborg. I've read this list a couple of other places too. A quick go through makes me interested in only the throttle.

Vijay here informs me the throttle tube has been modified so that the pulley now has a shorter throw.

Is this the "grip angle" they are referring to, of is this modified throttle tube/pulley only for the RC's which have clip-ons and thus the angle of the grips would be different to the Duke handlebar?

If its for the Duke, and the throttle twist arc is lesser, its effectively a factory designed quick throttle, and me wants.

Nothing else frankly looks worth doing for now. The less plastic do-das hanging off the bike, the better for me at least.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Interesting.

Not to be argumentative but I know of nothing dealing with a rich air/fuel mixture that would cause white smoke to be emitted from the exhaust on a cold startup. Black smoke yes, white smoke, no.

Jim what can I say? Except that I told the top honcho the exact same thing the first phone call we had.

Anyways, an official communique is an official communique. In black and white.

The matter has been brought to their notice, an explanation given, an official communique shared, the bike inspected by authorized personnel at an authorized SVC.

There is no smoke happening the last two cold starts. So if it were a hardware problem it would have repeated every cold start - that's the way I am looking at it.

The oil level has been checked. Now I ride. And then drain after a thousand more kilometers and fill new oil. Before that I check the oil level of the old oil drained. And recheck for coolant contamination.

If all looks ok, I will forget about it.

Austria borders Germany after all. And they are brothers. So maybe its a teutonic DNA thing.

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Glad to see the issue solved, for now Doc. I hope.

Cheers!
VJ

Thanks Vijay. Do keep me updated with anything new you might hear from others at the other place. And feel free to share what I've shared here.

[nasirkaka]

Here are the upgrades on the 2015 KTM Duke 390 :

would definitely want some of those and explore possibility of retrofitting them. as mentioned some posts back, there seems to be some change in the seat foam too in the newer models. Is that true.

Last few days, there bave been very heavy showers in Bangalore, and i have been forced to ride the duke through 1feet+ of water logging with exhaust totally submerged and much more, on multiple occasions. Although the bike performed just fine without any stalls, is there any caution/maintenance required during and after these situations?

[ebonho]

The seats on the Duke are not cheap. Not as a retrofit for a small improvement at least. Each costed close to 2000 bucks last time I asked.

By KTM India standards, that's a lot of money for very limited real estate worth of plastic, foam and rexine.

[barcalad]

Came across a rather interesting sight today. Some flawless mods done to a D200 that can be done on a D390 as well.

The first picture is of a luggage rack that seems to be very well sculpted. It's a Moonrack MR4.

The second picture is of an after-market knuckle guard which look very splendid in real. I'm interested to know it's name and price. Anyone having any idea?

[Cyborg]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Is this the "grip angle" they are referring to, of is this modified throttle tube/pulley only for the RC's which have clip-ons and thus the angle of the grips would be different to the Duke handlebar?

If its for the Duke, and the throttle twist arc is lesser, its effectively a factory designed quick throttle, and me wants.

Welcome Doc.

The list of 20 changes which I mentioned earlier from Motobeam are specifically for the Duke 390 in 2015. I do not know if the change makes it a "factory designed quick throttle" though.

Perhaps someone who has a 2015 Duke 390 could do a comparison with the older one and enlighten us.

On a separate note - have you or anyone else heard of an updated 2016 Duke 390 which could be displayed at the EICMA in November 2015 and launched in early 2016 in India? Details would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Cheers