[sridhu]

Thank you SunnyBoi & ArizonaJim

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

DOT4 is good enough for our bikes.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Usually, there will be some wording on the cover or cap of the master cylinder listing the recommended brake fluid.
If nothing is written on the cover/cap, read the Owners Manual. It will list the recommended fluid(s).
Always use the fluid type that is printed there. Using "word of mouth" about some "wonder fluid" that improves braking can lead to a total failure of the brake system.

The manual talks about Dot 4 or Dot 5.1. I was not sure which one to use.

Also, stupid question: how much fluid should I buy - 1 litre / 2-3 litres?

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

The reason the fluid level goes down is mainly due to the fact that the brake pads wear.

Should I then look at replacing the pads too? If it causes the that much depletion in the master cylinder, then it must be pretty worn out.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

When bleeding or replacing brake fluid, be aware that it is very destructive to all types of paint. Even the smallest amount of it on a painted surface will immediately start to soften and dissolve the paint.
Because of this, extra precautions are needed like totally covering all painted surfaces around and below the master cylinder with rags or protective materials.

If the brake system is being bled, do not over-tighten the bleed valve on the caliper.
Tightening it until some resistance is felt and then turning the valve about 1/8 turn further is usually more than enough.

Did not know these things - thanks for the caution! Precisely the kind of things I wanted to know about before I started.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by sridhu

Also, stupid question: how much fluid should I buy - 1 litre / 2-3 litres?

Should I then look at replacing the pads too? If it causes the that much depletion in the master cylinder, then it must be pretty worn out.

Buy two 100ml bottles of DOT4 fluid, that should be enough. Usually a 100ml bottle is enough but why take risk and better have a spare bottle.

Replace the pads only if they're worn out else they won't make any difference to the bite.

[bik1906]

Just a word of warning as I have been through enough experimentation with my brake system. I have gone from stock pads to EBC's and finally now am on brembos with a master cylinder change to boot just for the sake of experimentation to see if things improved. On the cylinder change the SVC themselves forgot to bleed the brakes (they told me the cylinder would bed in a few km's and I actually believed them!) so I had to get it bled outside at a garage in kammanahalli and have always gone back to them post this.


So a couple of things from my experience- the best way to do this is when they attach a huge syringe ( I have never been able to find this in the market) with a hose to the bleed screw and then pull the fluid out with the suction off the syringe. The other time I got my brakes bled the guy just put the hose on, pumped the pedal and let the brake fluid out into a bottle. However I dont think this was as effective as using the syringe. As mentioned your paint is also at stake here and also dont let the brake fluid spurt out and spill on anything hot as well.
There are quite a few reference videos on youtube so I would highly advise watching before self experimentation.

[VW2010]

[QUOTEJust a word of warning as I have been through enough experimentation with my brake system. I have gone from stock pads to EBC's and finally now am on brembos with a master cylinder change[/quote]


Not sure if i missed it but are u saying you have changed the break set up from Brybre to Brembo including the disc and complete set up?

If so can you post some pictures, cost and any impact on ABS etc?

[unk9ja]

Originally Posted by VW2010

Not sure if i missed it but are u saying you have changed the break set up from Brybre to Brembo including the disc and complete set up?

If so can you post some pictures, cost and any impact on ABS etc?

He may be quoting the brake pads which are available on the shelves of the aftermarket. I have seen an ad for the Brembo pads on the classifieds section sometime back. This guy is based in Goa and was quoting 3200INR for the brake pads.

EBC have been disappointment as far as a couple of riders on my radar. One of them has opted for a Brembo which is yet to get into the bike. Will post his views when done.

[punterccrx8s]

Just got my bike back from first service. The acceleration and throttle response seems to have reduced! Is it just me or have some of you also felt the same after service?

[RiderZone]

Originally Posted by punterccrx8s

Just got my bike back from first service. The acceleration and throttle response seems to have reduced! Is it just me or have some of you also felt the same after service?

Can't say I have felt that, although bikes do tend to behave differently after 1st service. Is it like a huge difference?

[punterccrx8s]

Originally Posted by RiderZone

Can't say I have felt that, although bikes do tend to behave differently after 1st service. Is it like a huge difference?

Yes. quite notceable. Mid range power is almost halved. But top end is still good though.But I would prefer midrange power

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by punterccrx8s

Yes. quite notceable. Mid range power is almost halved. But top end is still good though.But I would prefer midrange power

Check how tight the chain is.

[nasirkaka]

Can someone please explain a fool-proof method of how to achieve the ideal chain tension? I adjust the chain myself, but am never satisfied with the result. Always feel it could be better. End up having it either tight or on the looser side. adding to the issue, the 390s chain is got a tendency to develop uneven slackness.
Have heard different ppl advise different slackness. some advise to sit on the bike and adjust the chain so the compression is taken into account. Service folks tend to keep it on the tighter side. The manual is also of little help.

Wanted to know peoples experience on how to adjust the chain correctly under following condition:
1. bike is placed on a paddock stand.
2. will be used only by the rider 95%


thanks in advance!!

[RiderZone]

Originally Posted by punterccrx8s

Yes. quite notceable. Mid range power is almost halved. But top end is still good though.But I would prefer midrange power

Take it to the nearest SVC, doesn't look like a small issue to me. Don't just drop it off and expect them to fix it, stay there and get each and everything checked. The problem is that there's no quantifiable way to say that the power has reduced or not, you'll have to push your case a bit.

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

Can someone please explain a fool-proof method of how to achieve the ideal chain tension?

I've been tightening the chain myself for the last year or so. The way I do it is by NOT keeping the bike on paddock, so that some weight is already there on the rear end. I can't say it's an exact science, especially given how moody KTM chains can be over their life.

I generally try to keep the chain a bit tight, a bit more than the point where it stops hitting the swingarm. Then I move the bike a bit forward and then check again, to ensure that any wobble is accounted for.

It took me a while to get it right, and now I'm pretty satisfied with the results. Quite a difficult task for an OCD ridden guy like me.

Mod Note: Please use the EDIT or MULTI-QUOTE buttons instead of typing one post after another on the SAME THREAD!

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[punterccrx8s]

Thanks guy will do. Also how much should the tire pressure be ideally? I've been running at 28 Front and 28.5 rear even though recommended is 25 front. I've felt that its better at 28 in the front. Also I'm on the heavier side, Should I increase the rear tire pressure?
P.S- Just checked the chain. Its very loose! Need to go fire them.

[MavericK46]

Originally Posted by punterccrx8s

Thanks guy will do. Also how much should the tire pressure be ideally? I've been running at 28 Front and 28.5 rear even though recommended is 25 front. I've felt that its better at 28 in the front. Also I'm on the heavier side, Should I increase the rear tire pressure?
P.S- Just checked the chain. Its very loose! Need to go fire them.

28 in the front is very high. It'll rob you of some traction, and can potentially cause problems if you end up riding on wet roads.

And 28 at the rear is far too low especially since you've specified that you're a tad on the heavier side. Lower tire pressures will cause the tire to flex more hence causing them to run hotter - Something that directly impacts the longevity of the tire. Also, if you end up riding at speeds above a ton for a while, there's a very real risk of the tire sidewalls giving way at some point in the future.

Stick to 25-26psi front and 30-32psi rear.

Cheers !

Sundar

[nasirkaka]

I've been tightening the chain myself for the last year or so. The way I do it is by NOT keeping the bike on paddock, so that some weight is already there on the rear end. I can't say it's an exact science, especially given how moody KTM chains can be over their life.

I guess keeping the bike on the ground and keeping it on paddock would mean approximately same thing as both the cases compresses the swing arm. What could make a difference is when additional load of the weight of rider is added.

Anyhow, do you mean you tighten the chain to the point when you push the bottom part of the chain upwards, it just about touches the underside of the swing arm? i try and follow the same. Also, when i open the front sprocket cover and check, there seems to be slight play in the front sprocket. Is that normal?
Wishful thinking: with all the hightech equipment such as USD, Metzs, forged pistons, coated cylinder, and slipper assist, they could have thrown in a shaft drive as well for some extra monies

[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

Can someone please explain a fool-proof method of how to achieve the ideal chain tension?

I am no expert but I believe there is no fool proof method. I go by the values mentioned on the swingarm for the free play. Of course, check the tension at multiple points and adjust slackness accordingly. As long as you aren't a particularly hefty fella, the stock setting should work just fine

Originally Posted by RiderZone

I generally try to keep the chain a bit tight

Could you please elaborate why? Whatever google has thrown up on the subject, the unanimous opinion of the bikers around the world is to err on the side of caution and leave the chain slightly looser than tight. A tight chain can cause a lot of wear and tear, especially to the countershaft which can be an expensive fix. It will of course eat your sprocket and consequently the chain itself, including the possibility of chain snapping in two whilst riding

The worst that can happen with a loose chain though is that it comes off the sprocket, that too in a scenario where its extremely loose

Do let me know your thoughts