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-   -   4th-gen Honda City : Official Review (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/official-new-car-reviews/145656-4th-gen-honda-city-official-review-374.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by chennai-indian (Post 4189547)
I lost by primary key (with keyless entry) and the dealer is asking for rs 5100/- for a replacement. Is it that expensive?

Dear Chennai-Indian,

Sorry to hear that you lost the key. Can understand your misery. Well, no easy way, your Honda dealer is the only one who can help you in getting a replacement key. Do not hesitate paying him as this concerns security of your car. INR 5100 sounds fair for the primary key. The new key will need a remapping with the ECU and immobilizer to function properly. Please rely and trust your dealer.

Once everything is done. Please ensure and double check that the secondary key is working as well. Thanks.

Cheers,
Simmi

Quote:

Originally Posted by chennai-indian (Post 4189547)
I lost by primary key (with keyless entry)

What is primary key ? I have VMT 2015 model and I have 2 keys and both are same. How do I know which one is primary?

Quote:

Originally Posted by pravint (Post 4195442)
What is primary key ? I have VMT 2015 model and I have 2 keys and both are same. How do I know which one is primary?

One key has the immobilizer / remote door unlock buttons and the other needs you to insert it into the keyhole and turn it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pravint (Post 4195442)
What is primary key ? I have VMT 2015 model and I have 2 keys and both are same. How do I know which one is primary?

One key has the immobilizer and key less entry buttons

Quote:

Originally Posted by hserus (Post 4195447)
One key has the immobilizer / remote door unlock buttons and the other needs you to insert it into the keyhole and turn it.

My both keys look same:
I got two keys at delivery there both have lock unlock buttons as shown below.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hserus (Post 4195447)
One key has the immobilizer / remote door unlock buttons and the other needs you to insert it into the keyhole and turn it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by chennai-indian (Post 4195449)
One key has the immobilizer and key less entry buttons

Just to correct, the immobilizer function is in both the keys(indeed, in the third key as well in the cases where applicable). If this isn't there, your car won't start, thus rendering the key useless. It is the keyless entry / remote functionality (also includes antitheft alarm) which is limited only to the primary key. That's the reason Chennai-Indian, I explicitly mentioned to check and test both the keys post reprogramming. Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pravint (Post 4195507)
My both keys look same:
I got two keys at delivery there both have lock unlock buttons as shown below.

Dear Pravint,

You lucky mate to have both full-fledged keys. My dad's 2008 Honda City ZX has 3 keys (1 primary sports key and 2 secondary non-remote keys). My Jazz 2015 came with only 2 keys, the one with remote (just as your's) and the other w/remote, but of course with immobilizer. Thanks.

I took delivery of Honda city diesel ZX in new steel metallic color and its been a week now. The total OTR came to 15.49L. I have covered 1100 kms and first service was done with oil change on my request. I can say honda has improved on the driveability and NVH. Hope to get more satisfying trips with the new car and post a detailed writeup later.

Quote:

Originally Posted by automachine (Post 4196773)
I took delivery of Honda city diesel ZX in new steel metallic color and its been a week now. The total OTR came to 15.49L. I have covered 1100 kms and first service was done with oil change on my request. I can say honda has improved on the driveability and NVH. Hope to get more satisfying trips with the new car and post a detailed writeup later.

Congratulations automachine on your new machine :). Wish you miles and miles of drive with smiles.

Your car looks stunning! Thanks for sharing the OTR price and initial inputs. However, my question to you is, why did you request an oil change at mere 1100 km. IMO, should have covered more during running in period before the change. A change in oil at mere 1100 km will prevent further wear during the running in, which is indeed needed. Happy to be corrected and welcome for suggestions :).

Thanks,
Simmi

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nohonking (Post 4196783)
However, my question to you is, why did you request an oil change at mere 1100 km.

Well I just went by the recommendation on team-bhp (how to run-in your new car). As per the article there could be metal silvers or particles in initial run-in that gets mixed with oil. Though it made sense to me, I must say that I did not find a consensus for this need on other forums or auto articles.

Quote:

Originally Posted by automachine (Post 4196905)
Well I just went by the recommendation on team-bhp (how to run-in your new car). As per the article there could be metal silvers or particles in initial run-in that gets mixed with oil. Though it made sense to me, I must say that I did not find a consensus for this need on other forums or auto articles.

That is the case in some very old fashioned engines not these days. Stick to the recommended schedule your manufacturer provides.

Quote:

Originally Posted by automachine (Post 4196905)
Well I just went by the recommendation on team-bhp (how to run-in your new car).

Dear automachine,

Thanks for this reasoning. I too had referred to this article back in time and had tried following it in my own way. However, I replaced the first engine oil post 4000 km (recommended 10,000 km), since I had taken my Jazz (i-vtec) for an 1100+ km road trip into the Himalayas(especially to run in the engine, the transmission and the brakes well). The first replacement I did with a mineral based oil to give a further chance to wear. Later after 11000 km, I switched to fully synthetic to follow suit. In my old 2008 Honda City ZX (i-DSI), post 20,000 km I had switched to fully synthetic engine oil.

By the way, what is Honda's recommendation for the first drain for an i-dtec? Also, did you get a chance to observe the colour of drained oil? As a practice, I always stand besides my car(although the customers aren't allowed, but I give it a damn) and observe the draining oil for its colour and quality. Then I correlate it to the mileage, the conditions of running and my car's behavior. Thanks.

Cheers,
Simmi

The AC of my diesel City is acting up quite badly. Whenever the car slows down in traffic or stops at red lights, the compressor trips. And on particularly hot afternoons, the AC simply refuses to cool at all.

I raised the issue at the 70k service a few days back. I got the expected customary nonsense of a reply "Saar we have checked. Compressor is OK. Thermostat is OK. AC service karao filter change karao, theek ho jaega. It will cost about Rs 7000" ". The said filter was incidentally changed not long back and is anyway cleaned periodically. The AC was also serviced last summer. And the car is not overheating.

I took the vehicle to my trusted AC guy to get the evaporator/condenser cleaned and gas topped, just to be doubly sure. I was shocked to see two other Citys there with the same complaint. They were also told the exact same story by the dealer. Anyway, the 'service' was done and as expected, there was no improvement. The mechanic clearly said that the compressor is about to die and needs replacement. Ditto for the other two Citys.

He said that they are getting quite a few Citys and Amazes with this problem and have already changed a few compressor condenser sets this season. Apparently, the compressor being used is rather weak and has a service life of just 3 to 4 years. This problem seems to be fairly common.

Does the city have a cabin air filter? The amaze doesn't - and too much dust on the cooling coil would certainly cause the problem you describe.

After getting my coil cleaned once I installed a 3rd party filter as per http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-do...e-mobilio.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shreyans_Jain (Post 4197071)
I took the vehicle to my trusted AC guy to get the evaporator/condenser cleaned and gas topped, just to be doubly sure. I was shocked to see two other Citys there with the same complaint. They were also told the exact same story by the dealer. Anyway, the 'service' was done and as expected, there was no improvement. The mechanic clearly said that the compressor is about to die and needs replacement. Ditto for the other two Citys.

He said that they are getting quite a few Citys and Amazes with this problem and have already changed a few compressor condenser sets this season. It seems that the compressor being used has a service life of just 3 to 4 years and this problem is fairly common.


Quote:

Originally Posted by hserus (Post 4197073)
Does the city have a cabin air filter? The amaze doesn't - and too much dust on the cooling coil would certainly cause the problem you describe.

After getting my coil cleaned once I installed a 3rd party filter as per http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-do...e-mobilio.html

Yes, the City has a cabin filter. It is placed in a dedicated box behind the glove compartment. A new replacement filter costs around Rs. 1500-2000. (I don't remember exactly)

The Amaze gets the 'box' in which the filter element goes but the filter itself is removed. Exactly what you described.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shreyans_Jain (Post 4197087)
Yes, the City has a cabin filter. It is placed in a dedicated box behind the glove compartment. A new replacement filter costs around Rs. 1500-2000. (I don't remember exactly)

The Amaze gets the 'box' in which the filter element goes but the filter itself is removed. Exactly what you described.

Yeah so I had that issue in my amaze a year or so back and the reason was a huge amount of dirt in the AC system, causing gas levels to go down and airflow to be blocked. I added the diy filter after that.

With a dirty filter - sometimes its best to just replace it, not just blow the dirt out with an air hose. And gas levels etc might need topping up after three years. Was that checked for?


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