[salbin]

Originally Posted by oxyzen

Please mention whether its AC on or AC off.
Also City/cighway.
Or else FE does not hjave any value.
I am getting 12 in city. (100% AC)
16.5 in Highway (100% AC)
Driving style moderate..1500-3000 RPM..Max 3500

Here is my FE log for ~3700kms:

Hope this is clear.

This is my ownership review thread: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...ip-report.html

Originally Posted by sajjt

After reading your post, stating that 75-100 km/hr will gives the optimum, is that correct if then the co's will give these in the owners manual to help us to extract the max kms per litre. And as per science, the more speed the air resistance increases and there by engine consumes more fuel to maintain the speed. I think thats why we should be in a balance in terms of speed as well as the economy to take the full benefit out of every drop of fuel right? That is 50-70 range. Pls clarify.

Welcome to the Beat club, Sajan

Theoretically you are right.
Even I was under the same impression earlier to this.
What I have mentioned is purely based on my real-time experience.
I got more FE while driving 75-100kmph compared to 50-70 range.
Moreover FE is a very subjective parameter.
It depends on lot of factors like- person to person, driving style, condition of road, gradiant, altitude, traffic condition, fuel used, AC usage, no of passengers, etc..

[sajjt]

Originally Posted by salbin

Welcome to the Beat club, Sajan

Theoretically you are right.
Even I was under the same impression earlier to this.
What I have mentioned is purely based on my real-time experience.
I got more FE while driving 75-100kmph compared to 50-70 range.
Moreover FE is a very subjective parameter.
It depends on lot of factors like- person to person, driving style, condition of road, gradiant, altitude, traffic condition, fuel used, AC usage, no of passengers, etc..

Thank you Salbin.
Yeah you are right FE is very subjective parameter as there are lot more things to change. But I still cant digest with the optimum speed statement as per theory only its all designed and as per the design its been created. I hope it explains.

BTW my FE is 12 max with less stress on pedal, mixed ac and highway drives. But my car is still in run in period, may be thats the reason.

What about the 2nd gear torque lag? Has it overcome? I made a complaint to the dealership and they have re mapped the ECU and now the torque on 1st gear reduced but 2nd gear slightly improved. At the time of test drive I didnt noticed the 1st gear torque is reduced as there were two people were in the car so naturally there's not much strain to the engine. But once I took the car for a family ride, its clearly noticeable. But this setup is ok for me as I drives mainly plane roads with less inclinations so it can happily takes up and something better in city drives than the stock mapping.

I've raised this while there was a customer meet to introduce the CCPO offer and they says its from the company has to do anything with that as its a design issue. Last week I got a call from the service to bring the car for the issues I've raised, yet to make some time to make it.

Even almost all BS4 1-1.2lt cars have the same issues incl the latest M Estilo.

[redlaw]

Originally Posted by oxyzen

Please mention whether its AC on or AC off.
Also City/cighway.
Or else FE does not hjave any value.

I am getting 12 in city. (100% AC)
16.5 in Highway (100% AC)
Driving style moderate..1500-3000 RPM..Max 3500

I have been always driving between 1.5-2.5k RPM. My last checked mileage was 14.2 kmpl (city driving 50% AC). I am using 5th gear more frequently.

[akshatverma1979]

Completed 5000 kms. At present on 5000 kms but couldn't send the beat for service bcoz of lack of time. Will update my own thread with the 5kms experience soon. getting autocop and ORVM covers with indicators installed this time. Getting ICE done too (thanks alstonlobo). Also went for a trip from nagpur to indore and back. Will update soon on my thread.

[oxyzen]

Originally Posted by salbin

Here is my FE log for ~3700kms:
Hope this is clear.

Thats a quite amazing FE figures you pull out.

Originally Posted by sajjt

What about the 2nd gear torque lag? Has it overcome? I made a complaint to the dealership and they have re mapped the ECU and now the torque on 1st gear reduced but 2nd gear slightly improved. At the time of test drive I didnt noticed the 1st gear torque is reduced as there were two people were in the car so naturally there's not much strain to the engine. But once I took the car for a family ride, its clearly noticeable. But this setup is ok for me as I drives mainly plane roads with less inclinations so it can happily takes up and something better in city drives than the stock mapping.

I've raised this while there was a customer meet to introduce the CCPO offer and they says its from the company has to do anything with that as its a design issue. Last week I got a call from the service to bring the car for the issues I've raised, yet to make some time to make it.

Even almost all BS4 1-1.2lt cars have the same issues incl the latest M Estilo.

For your first point I highly doubt if they have actually remapped the ECU. It is highly Improbable. In fact I dont think OEM manufactures are entitled to do that.
And yes Bs4 are sluggish than BS3. But swift K12 has no lag.

[sajjt]

Originally Posted by oxyzen

Thats a quite amazing FE figures you pull out.

For your first point I highly doubt if they have actually remapped the ECU. It is highly Improbable. In fact I dont think OEM manufactures are entitled to do that.
And yes Bs4 are sluggish than BS3. But swift K12 has no lag.

How can the torque changes from 1st to 2nd without remapping? Is there any other tweaks to achieve this? Now my first gear is bit sluggish at low rpms but the 2nd gear is bit more smarter than previous condition. I know its not a good mapping still being in plane roads and city driving I feel its some more good for me. BTW, am yet to get another re mapping which was promised by the service head when I complained about this and the low FE.

Whats your FE?

[Topolino]

Originally Posted by oxyzen

For your first point I highly doubt if they have actually remapped the ECU. It is highly Improbable. In fact I dont think OEM manufactures are entitled to do that.

Originally Posted by sajjt

How can the torque changes from 1st to 2nd without remapping? Is there any other tweaks to achieve this? Now my first gear is bit sluggish at low rpms but the 2nd gear is bit more smarter than previous condition. I know its not a good mapping still being in plane roads and city driving I feel its some more good for me. BTW, am yet to get another re mapping which was promised by the service head when I complained about this and the low FE.

It is true that GM is remapping the ECM on customers demand. Actually the ECM is connected to the computer and remapping is done online with the help of online software developed by GM. Service Engineer at the Authorised Service Centre only has to follow the instructions online and proceed accordingly to get the ECM remapped. I didn't go for ECM remapping as I find gearing suitable for my kind of driving style and I am getting decent FE too.
If you are looking for maximum fuel efficiency up-shift between 1500 to 2000 rpm and keep the car between 2000 - 2400 rpm band in top gear while cruising on highways (But if your car has not completed 1000 km do not exceed 2000 rpm). I got an overall FE of 16.24 kmpl (2464km/151.72l) with AC ON 80% times in all sorts of driving conditions (Heavy Crawling City Traffic+Normal City Traffic+Sub-Urbans+Highways) and that too on BS-II 88 RON Petrol due to the non availability of 91 RON Petrol in Udaipur. I am sure your FE too will improve as the kms builds up.

[Takumi-san]

BS II petrol? Not sure about this but I thought this damages the catalytic converter so that the car is no longer a BS IV effectively. Someone clear this up please.

[Topolino]

Originally Posted by Takumi-san

BS II petrol? Not sure about this but I thought this damages the catalytic converter so that the car is no longer a BS IV effectively. Someone clear this up please.

GM claims that "There is no known damage expected on vehicles due to use of BS2 / BS3 fuel on BS4 vehicles". Please see the link given below:
Chevrolet India
But I am sure there would be some extent of damage to the catalytic converter, and that is why GM is not providing Emission Warranty (including warranty on catalytic converter) of 3 years on the cars sold in cities other than Delhi, Chennai, Kolkata and Mumbai (Owner's Manual Page No. 167-172).

[sajjt]

Originally Posted by Topolino

GM claims that "There is no known damage expected on vehicles due to use of BS2 / BS3 fuel on BS4 vehicles". Please see the link given below:
Chevrolet India
But I am sure there would be some extent of damage to the catalytic converter, and that is why GM is not providing Emission Warranty (including warranty on catalytic converter) of 3 years on the cars sold in cities other than Delhi, Chennai, Kolkata and Mumbai (Owner's Manual Page No. 167-172).

That's a very tricky way of excluding warranty. But that's the maximum they can do, as there is no guarantee that we will get high octane fuel everywhere near future. The Government is forcing manufacturers to go for BS4 engines and supplying low octane fuel for the same.

[oxyzen]

Originally Posted by sajjt

How can the torque changes from 1st to 2nd without remapping? Is there any other tweaks to achieve this? Now my first gear is bit sluggish at low rpms but the 2nd gear is bit more smarter than previous condition. I know its not a good mapping still being in plane roads and city driving I feel its some more good for me. BTW, am yet to get another re mapping which was promised by the service head when I complained about this and the low FE.
Whats your FE?

12 in City (short trips ~ 4-5 KM)
17 in Highway (200X2 KM)
All figures with 100% AC.

What is ECU tuning?
It is nothing but changing a few parameters like. Air fuel Ratio and ignition timing. If you tune your engine with a rich mixture your drivability will improve. FE will go down marginally. You will emit more unburnt HC and lesser CO. If you advance the ingition timing you can get more torque but engine will be prone to knocking (compromise on life). So this part is generally avoided.
However if you change the calibration there will be similar change in all the gears as ECU has nothing to do with transmission. Unless there is a feedback to the ECU regarding the gear selection (NEVER HEARD OF IT THOUGH).
And about your question
1st gear sluggish---
2nd gear smarter---
I dont have any clue.

Originally Posted by Topolino

It is true that GM is remapping the ECM on customers demand. Actually the ECM is connected to the computer and remapping is done online with the help of online software developed by GM. Service Engineer at the Authorised Service Centre only has to follow the instructions online and proceed accordingly to get the ECM remapped. I didn't go for ECM remapping as I find gearing suitable for my kind of driving style and I am getting decent FE too.
If you are looking for maximum fuel efficiency up-shift between 1500 to 2000 rpm and keep the car between 2000 - 2400 rpm band in top gear while cruising on highways (But if your car has not completed 1000 km do not exceed 2000 rpm). I got an overall FE of 16.24 kmpl (2464km/151.72l) with AC ON 80% times in all sorts of driving conditions (Heavy Crawling City Traffic+Normal City Traffic+Sub-Urbans+Highways) and that too on BS-II 88 RON Petrol due to the non availability of 91 RON Petrol in Udaipur. I am sure your FE too will improve as the kms builds up.

I am not to worried about about FE. What i need is a better drivability. No lag.
Well I will try to get the remapping (if possible) in my 2nd service.

And thank you for the information.

[quadmaniac]

A query to BEAT owners. I've asked about this, but I still feel I didn't understand and hence asking again.

How does one turn off the AC completely?

Right now what I do is turn the leftmost knob to the leftmost (minimum/zero) position, and there's no AC/fan working sound - and hence I feel that the AC is shut off.

However, the display continues to be on (the ACC display I mean), and at night, the knobs continue to glow. Someone told me that the on/off switch is the "button" on the rightmost knob. Pressing this doesn't cause much difference (do I need to long-press this or something)?

[sajjt]

Originally Posted by oxyzen

12 in City (short trips ~ 4-5 KM)
17 in Highway (200X2 KM)
All figures with 100% AC.

What is ECU tuning?
It is nothing but changing a few parameters like. Air fuel Ratio and ignition timing. If you tune your engine with a rich mixture your drivability will improve. FE will go down marginally. You will emit more unburnt HC and lesser CO. If you advance the ingition timing you can get more torque but engine will be prone to knocking (compromise on life). So this part is generally avoided.
However if you change the calibration there will be similar change in all the gears as ECU has nothing to do with transmission. Unless there is a feedback to the ECU regarding the gear selection (NEVER HEARD OF IT THOUGH).
And about your question
1st gear sluggish---
2nd gear smarter---
I dont have any clue.

Salbin, I am not a technical person like you to know what they have done at the time of service. I just deliver what I learned from the service people, may be its not correct, but the gear torque is changed anyway as it’s very much noticeable. I got a test drive with the service person but that time 1st gear torque loss was noticeable as we were only two people. I noticed this once we have 4 persons in the car and it was bit straining to pull in 1st gear. I am planning to get it corrected as soon as possible once I get some free time.

[salbin]

Originally Posted by quadmaniac

How does one turn off the AC completely?
Right now what I do is turn the leftmost knob to the leftmost (minimum/zero) position, and there's no AC/fan working sound - and hence I feel that the AC is shut off.
However, the display continues to be on (the ACC display I mean), and at night, the knobs continue to glow. Someone told me that the on/off switch is the "button" on the rightmost knob. Pressing this doesn't cause much difference (do I need to long-press this or something)?

There is a switch for AC on-off, on the temperature control knob itself(3rd one from left).
It has an ice crystal symbol on it - when you press it, the same symbol will appear in the display also indicating that the AC is on. Press it again to switch off.
Also the blower speed control is linked with the AC. ie. when you keep it at zero speed, the AC gets off automatically. This is an interlock feature given in most of the ACs to save fuel.
So you need not turn the blower knob all the time to turn off the AC - instead, just press the AC on/off button.

[Topolino]

Originally Posted by quadmaniac

A query to BEAT owners. I've asked about this, but I still feel I didn't understand and hence asking again.

How does one turn off the AC completely?

Right now what I do is turn the leftmost knob to the leftmost (minimum/zero) position, and there's no AC/fan working sound - and hence I feel that the AC is shut off.

However, the display continues to be on (the ACC display I mean), and at night, the knobs continue to glow. Someone told me that the on/off switch is the "button" on the rightmost knob. Pressing this doesn't cause much difference (do I need to long-press this or something)?

Cooling can be activated or deactivated by pressing the button on right knob. By turning the the left rotary knob to 0 all the functions of heating, ventilation and cooling system are switched off. So if you do not want cooling but still want fan to run, then you have to press button on right knob to deactivate cooling and adjust the desired fan speed with left rotary knob.