[lurker]

Yes, I have measure it. It is 7.0 cms.

http://www.ebay.in/itm/Filter-Wrench...item4619a2dfd2
this is the type that I used initially. And highly unrecommend it. Because all it did was to scar the oil filter enough to make deep grooves into it. It didn't budge any much though. It is also difficult to convince the service centre chaps not to screw it so tightly in the first place that it becomes difficult to remove. Maybe it's their insurance against the customers doing the oil change themselves.

[heysac]

For a Swift (P) 2010 driven 11K kms only, what all would people recommend other than the regular oil/fluid changes and air filter cleaning?

Does one need to get brakes cleaned?

I will be going for a fuel filter change and did the air filter change at 5K kms.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by lurker

Recently I tried changing the oil filter on my Versa. It is stuck underneath like in an Alto and not easily approachable like in a MJD engine.

Ok, so now used an adjustable oil filter wrench, but the thing just wouldn't budge. Then drove the car about a bit and tried again and the filter would move about just a bit. Used a strap type wrench and it just kept slipping off. Finally went to a neighbourhood mechanic and he used a socket. A kind of cap that fits on the oil filter and it came off in a jiffy.

Now where the hell can I find such a socket cap for a maruti oil filter online. And what would be the exact specifications. It would be a huge relief if I could change the oil filter myself as well.

Would a 65 mm cap be enough because the diameter of the oil filter seems to be 60mm.

Here's a little handy tip for when the oil filter is stuck and you don't have a filter wrench handy. Just ram a large screw driver through the lower part of the filter and twist it! Its a bit messy as you will have some oil spilling out, but you will definitely get the filer off.

When mounting the new filter, fill with the appropriate oil, rub some oil on the seal and hand tighten only, no wrench!
Jeroen

[joybhowmik]

Originally Posted by lurker

I need the socket. I hate the strap one or the plier or the adjustable type.

Would this be enough ?

how the hell do I know without trying it on first.

Originally Posted by lurker

Yes, I have measure it. It is 7.0 cms.

You can consider buying one of these - will fit most cars out there.
Image Source: pro-autotools (ebayer)

Since your location seems to be Meghalaya consider using a transhipment for the item through a service provider such as this

Hope this helps!

[lurker]

it's available on indiamart too. seller wants 7100 for whole set. And what am I going to do with the whole set. i ordered a 68mm socket off ebay. Yet to arrive, meanwhile asked a fnm to unlock the filter and he did it easily with a socket (as you have shown) and a drive.

[hyper-VTEC]

i have a Feb 2004 WagonR run approximately 35,xxx kms. The car is used sparingly: less than 250kms a month. I recently changed all 5 tires and got the 3rd battery.

Now the 11th year service is due. My question is: should i go ahead with the following even though the mileage is less?

Change timing belt / balancer. Water pump replacement recommended.
Revamp suspension (some cars may require this earlier).
Change all drive belts.
Change all hose pipes.
Check condition of engine mounts. May need replacement in some cars.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by hyper-VTEC

i have a Feb 2004 WagonR run approximately 35,xxx kms. The car is used sparingly: less than 250kms a month. I recently changed all 5 tires and got the 3rd battery.

Now the 11th year service is due. My question is: should i go ahead with the following even though the mileage is less?

Change timing belt / balancer. Water pump replacement recommended.
Revamp suspension (some cars may require this earlier).
Change all drive belts.
Change all hose pipes.
Check condition of engine mounts. May need replacement in some cars.

With time rubber deteriorates, so it is wise to change all rubber parts - hoses, belts, suspension bushes and rubber parts used in brakes.

Also have the radiator dismantled and cleaned by a radiator specialist.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by hyper-VTEC

i have a Feb 2004 WagonR run approximately 35,xxx kms. The car is used sparingly: less than 250kms a month. I recently changed all 5 tires and got the 3rd battery.



Now the 11th year service is due. My question is: should i go ahead with the following even though the mileage is less?



Change timing belt / balancer. Water pump replacement recommended.

Revamp suspension (some cars may require this earlier).

Change all drive belts.

Change all hose pipes.

Check condition of engine mounts. May need replacement in some cars.

A few additional thoughts/comments: on the timing belt/balancer and water pump I would strictly go by whatever the owner manual says. Unless of course you are experiencing problems specific to these.

On the suspension I cant judge, but unless something appears amiss why bother?
Changing out the drive belts, unless there is evidence they have been changed recently is a good idea.
hose pipes and engine mounts, only after close inspection. Pull of a few piece of hose pipe and inspect them inside/ edges. That should be a pretty good indication.

If this is a petrol car I would consider changing the spark plugs + leads, distributor cap and rotor.

Jeroen

[syravi]

There are some parts you should not wait to get bad before you take your car to a workshop for obvious reasons

The following is a list

Hose pipe replacements: Rubber parts deteriorate after some time. If my engine mounting got worn at I lac kms or after 4 years, the same truth will apply to hose pipes. So instead of waiting for them to leak on road and get you stranded, I would advice you to change them at 1 lac kms or 4 years whichever is earlier.

Accelerator Wire Replacement: The accelerator wire too has rubber parts so change it after 4 years or 1 lac kms to get a good performance even if you are not experiencing problems.

More sharing as I learn more. Please add generously, your own experiences for others to enjoy a trouble free experience.

Clutch Wire Replacement: The same reason applies as above. You dont want to be stuck on the road with a broken clutch or clutch wire or damage the clutch prematurely! Besides towing costs can be phenomenal compared to the cost of a replacement.

Radiator Fan Belt and AC belt: Rubber loses elastic quality over a period of time. Replace these at 70,000 or 1 lac kms or after 4 years, whichever is earlier. You dont want to be stuck on the road with a broken fan belt!

Engine Mounts
My engine mounts gave away at 1 lac kms but I noticed them only when my mechanic pointed and after experiencing jerks. They need to be probably looked into earlier to avoid damage to clutch or engine which can happen if they are left unattended.

[girimajiananth]

Cool checklist ! Although very basic and everyone already knows about it , lets add the most obvious rubber part . The Tyre . Bad tyres are dangerous to the occupants of the car , other motorists and pedestrians. Old worn out tyre can go flat anywhere anytime .

[ptaneja]

Searched this thread, but couldn't find any reference - I am looking for specific maintenance schedule required for CNG powered vehicles. Any CNG specific components, hoses, pipes etc which needs replacement etc etc

[lapis_lazuli]

Dear All,

The Punto 1.2 is a very underrated car. Simple, rare and lovable! Needs its yearly share of TLC!

I own a Punto 1.2 2012 Dynamic. Extremely happy with the car, except some odd rattles here and there. Scheduled services were done at Oberoi Fiat, Noida, and even though it is a few months away, I am posting the following, in preparation. I never prepared as much for IIT JEE or for my wedding for that matter...!

Feb 2016: and it will be time for the major 60000 service, though the car would have run only about 36000 till then.

I was reading the Indica Vista Safire(hence after called IVS) 1.2 Owners manual and it is an identical engine in ALL respects. Replacement parts are identical too, courtesy 99rpm. My obervations/queries regarding the service items and schedules:

1) Air filter change: Same filter used in IVS; the manual states clean every 5000 but change every 4 years. My decision: change every year for P1.2, outrageous anyway! 4 years, sheesh!

2) Fuel Filter: Both say change every year, so I will change too

3) Oil filter: Both say change with oil change, needless to mention, will be changed!

4) Oil: While Punto says 5W40 Selenia K, IVS suggests a wide variety of multigrades : the upper grade is always 40 but 10W40...20W40 seems to be OK. My decision: will change to 10W40! NCR doesn't need better!

5) Spark Plugs: Punto manual says 30k/2 years, IVS manual says 30k/3 years. Same NGK ZKR7A-10 plugs.

6) Coolant: Punto says Paraflu Up, premixed, HOAT based, both say 2yrs interval. So will change.

7) Gear Oil: Both uses 75W85 GL4, FIAT says 30k/2 years, IVS says 80000/8 years: This is a shocker! Confused!

8) Power steering oil : Both use DEX 3, FIAT says every 2 years, TATA says 100000kms or 10years! CONFUSED.


9) Brake and clutch fluid: Recommendation is to properly bleed and change every 2 years, ASS does a joke of only top up of 100-200mL which is CRIMINAL on their part. You may check, they never do a proper bleed and drain. Will change, but getting a right person to rightly bleed clutch and brake is difficult.

10) Timing belt: FIAT says 4 years/60000kms, same GATES timing belt and tensioner in IVS, TATA says 100000kms/10 years. CONFUSED BIG TIME.

11) Serpentine/Power Steering belt: FIAT says 4 years, NO MENTION IN TATA manual.

So, what do the gurus suggest? In any case, the basics: oil I will shift to Shell Helix 10W40. I have colleagues in EU and UK, who use 10W40 on the same engine 1.2 8V. I am worried about the timing belt part. Should I wait or leave it as it is for some more years? Aux belts, I can get changed form any where but timing belt replacement is a critical job.

TATA manual may be downloaded here for reference. I am amazed at the difference.

https://service.tatamotors.com/?q=content/owners-manual

On the sunny side: we can take the best from both and decide: hence the thread. Request owners of both the cars to contribute and enlighten us, in addition to experts. I am planning a partial FNG way, for normal service but for the timing part will rely on the ASS.

[Ricci]

I'd suggest changing plugs, coolant, brake fluid as per Fiat recommendation. Transmission oil change is usually much longer, so try to get from Fiat forums if the shorter oil change is truly necessary for Fiat. Tata and Fiat transmissions are different, from what I know. Same with power steering fluid.

[devarshi84]

I own a 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer which has run 136000 kms. Till date it has been somehow possible to keep the car in mint condition with availability of spares and good technicians mostly due to simple mechanicals and electricals.

But We all know Hindustan Motors is not exactly in the green of health or customer service. The same can be said of Mitsubishi Motors which has trimmed its lineup worldwide and shuttering factories. Getting Original quality spares has become increasingly difficult.

This car has been with us through thick and thin and despite lack of major safety features kept my family safe during a couple heavy duty crashes.

I have seen vintage cars running in mint conditions, this is a mere Mitsubishi Lancer, why am I finding it difficult to maintain spares? I approached the dealership but their HM quoted MRPs are more than spares cost of ALL new cars.

An air filter costs 2400 for eg. I have a reliable technical garage for this but from where can I get quality spares at affordable costs? How do most of you manage your 10+ years old out of production cars?

For the moment I mostly require an Air filter and butterfly valve kit.

[arighna.dutta]

Hi Devarshi, I guess, it is not just maintaining any old car, the severity is even more, because, it is a Mitsubishi on top of which, it has a collaboration with HM. Might be the scenario is not that bad for those having 10 years old cars from Honda or Toyota.