[darklord]

So the brake master cylinder went kaput on my 2008 2.2. I got a replacement part manufactured by TVS-Girling, apparently the very same part intended for Safari 2.2, but the thread to connect the brake line appears a couple sizes larger. Any insights on how to go about fixing it or how such a mismatch happened? Really perplexed .

[ripy002]

Hello everyone!

I have a little problem with a new Tata Safari 2021 model.
Facing a weird problem with the Start, the battery discharges withing 4-5 days if the car is not used and the engine will not crank. Got the car from the showroom 4 months back.

As per TASS this is normal with bigger engine cars. They recommend to run my car every 2-3 days to keep the battery charged up. I just don't buy that narrative. New battery should not have this problem, should it? Anyone else facing this issue with the new Safari?

Need help. Thanks

[HappyWheels]

Originally Posted by ripy002

....the battery discharges withing 4-5 days if the car is not used and the engine will not crank. Got the car from the showroom 4 months back. ...

There is no way this will happen, that too in such a short span of time. I have had the vehicle unused for more than 2 months and still starts without an issue.

Looks like there is an electrical leak somewhere or you have a weak battery. Ask TASS to loan you a spare battery to check if it is indeed a bad battery. Do make sure to run the vehicle for sometime to ensure the spare battery is fully charged as you can never be sure on how long it was kept out and what its current charge state is.

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by darklord

So the brake master cylinder went kaput on my 2008 2.2. I got a replacement part manufactured by TVS-Girling, apparently the very same part intended for Safari 2.2, but the thread to connect the brake line appears a couple sizes larger. Any insights on how to go about fixing it or how such a mismatch happened? Really perplexed .

A good practice for older vehicles is to buy the MC and booster as a pair (comes already assembled as far as I remember). Anyhow the booster will fail in sometime as is, so may as well replace it now since you are dismantling the brake system.

[jobinjv]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

Assuming the body and Interior is in good shape. Then Yes.

Find a good technician who can be paid good money to test drive your vehicle, note down everything wrong with it and then put it up on the lift and inspect every nut and bolt underneath. Once you receive an estimate, be ready to spare no expense and get it fixed - this is the only way to do it.

As far as I have seen diesel tronic intercepts the signals to the injectors and has no clue what the engine is going, it will do it's bit to kill your engine , but I assume you do not use it as much.

Suspension change would have messed with the geometry, Dicor needs shims installed to correct it, which is the usual practice.

Lastly - Do you have use for a diesel UV ? If yes it would be worth it , else No. Diesels need to run regularly.

Well it used to run the long distances. But lockdowns and these issues have kept the odo low for the last few years.

Is there anything that once the timing belt has been changed that thing done at the factory can never be achieved from the running

I seriously sound stupid asking this

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by jobinjv

Well it used to run the long distances. But lockdowns and these issues have kept the odo low for the last few years.

Is there anything that once the timing belt has been changed that thing done at the factory can never be achieved from the running

I seriously sound stupid asking this

As long as the belt is changed before it snaps , there is nothing else to it, it is a routine maintenance item for service centers. Once the vehicle is alright , use it regularly, some highway running should keep things in good shape.

[Kams_cars]

Hi,

Our Storme EX 2015, has clocked 88K km so far.
Though the vehicle clutch has turned hard to operate and the gears required additional push to engage in the parking and at signals, I still continued to drive the vehicle for daily needs. All this was a result of driving in the City's constant traffic conditions before the March 2020 lockdown scene.

In May when I took the vehicle for the general oil change service, the SA (who is reliable) had identified some knocking sound from the engine bay and he called me to explain that it could be a worn-off timing belt. With my permission, they examined the timing belt, shared pictures and I agreed to replace the timing belt. And then he got the vehicle oil top-up done and assured me all is well for another 5,000-8,000kms.

We were contemplating long-distance travel to visit extended family in July, and that means a service center visit was a must. During this time, I gave a nod to SA to get the clutch plates and oil servicing done together.

With the new clutch and oil service, as I started the engine in the service center, I almost shouted for a mechanic because the clutch felt feather-lite. Quickly saving the face, I then realized it is the new clutch feel and this was how the vehicle drove when I took the delivery back in 2015. Priceless!

With the recent drizzling rains in Hyderabad, I already completed few drives on the ORR and remembering all the lovely feelings of driving the Safari.

[Praj28]

Hello Team,

I was unable to find a resolution to the above stated problem ( dated back to 2016). Apologies if Iam missing this.
I have a 2011 model safari Dicor VX 4*4, done 145000s and am facing the exact same issue. Last Friday I got my vehicle all serviced from Tata focus motors kochi. ( Radiator cleaning done, fan assembly complete change, water pump assembly changed, timing belt changed, and all bushes of front suspension changed)
In the weekend I took the vehicle to hill station and found the power loss while climbing and low speed, < 1700rpm,
Doesn't happen always though. Any thoughts?
( BTW, despite changing all this I found coolant still leaking today morning) called up the service center, they had asked me to bring it to them. But any clue or guidance for the power loss while climbing at low RPM?

Thanks,

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by Praj28

In the weekend I took the vehicle to hill station and found the power loss while climbing and low speed, < 1700rpm,
Doesn't happen always though. Any thoughts?

The ECU thinks that something is wrong and goes to limp home mode restricting the rpm. Since this happens occasionally, some sensor is failing. When you raise the engine rpm, can you hear the turbo whistle ?
Another reason could be that the engine is over heating due to leaks in the radiator.

[Praj28]

Thanks. The whole reason I took it to the service center last week was for coolant leak, and then they recommended water pump change and radiator cleaning etc. To my surprise after a drive of 400km in the weekend, I did notice coolant leak again on Monday morning in the same place. Simply put the coolant leak issue still persist. So you mean to say that the power loss could be possibly due to engine over heating because of the coolant leak.

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by Praj28

To my surprise after a drive of 400km in the weekend, I did notice coolant leak again on Monday morning in the same place. Simply put the coolant leak issue still persist. So you mean to say that the power loss could be possibly due to engine over heating because of the coolant leak.

Power loss, over heating, coolant leak - you`ve got to check this before it gets worse.

What was the temp gauge saying at that time? was it in the middle or more?

It could be as simple as a radiator cap , hose clamp or something bit more extensive like a head gasket.

[Praj28]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

Power loss, over heating, coolant leak - you`ve got to check this before it gets worse.

What was the temp gauge saying at that time? was it in the middle or more?

It could be as simple as a radiator cap , hose clamp or something bit more extensive like a head gasket.

I took this to the service center today. They said the leak was due to the recent radiator cleaning, all the rust sediments have been flushed to a particular spot where the pipe and hose were joining and now the leak was from there. They promised they fixed it, let me wait and see. For power loss they have cleaned the converter. Let's wait and see again!

To answer your question, at that time the temp gauge was slightly more to my right from the middle ( higher side)

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

Power loss, over heating, coolant leak - you`ve got to check this before it gets worse.

What was the temp gauge saying at that time? was it in the middle or more?

It could be as simple as a radiator cap , hose clamp or something bit more extensive like a head gasket.

Originally Posted by Praj28

To answer your question, at that time the temp gauge was slightly more to my right from the middle ( higher side)

If you lose all the water, the temperature guage stops going above middle. However the check engine light comes on and pulling the code gives the accurate code for overheat

Also, the "white overflow reservoir" can be full while radiator is empty. Putting water in the radiator (don't do when hot) allows the vehicle to run normally.


We drove from Sangla valley to Delhi putting in water every 2 hours or so when the radiator in our safari developed a leak. The temperature guage gave no indication that there was overheat issue

[Praj28]

Originally Posted by Praj28

Tata Safari VX 4x4 2011- loud fan noise and vibration! (145000km done)
My vehicle started having a new problem for the past one week. After driving for 10kms approx, there is a loud noise from the fan and the Vehicle throws high vibrations as well. If I ignore this and continue to drive, then the noise from the fan and vibration goes off in say 500m drive or so and then I continued to drive for 100 plus kms without any issues.
The issue started next again when I started driving for 10 kms after a cold start. Now I tried to stop the vehicle by the road side when this noise and vibration were observed. Even after the ignition is off, the fan continued to run with a noise for approximately 2-3 minutes and then only shuts off. I haven't taken it to the service center yet due to lockdown. Any suggestions here from the Dicor owners?
Thanks,
Prajeesh

Just wanted to provide an update that loud fan noise and vibration issue got fixed by replacing the radiator fan assembly. It was a faulty fan leaf, and there was a crack on the units frame as well, hence decided to change the whole assembly.

[Kosfactor]

I gather it would be prudent to replace the radiator instead of attempting to clean it.

Out of curiosity, how did they clean the radiator? These days they are replaced instead due to the pipes inside being very small, did they add any radiator flush?