[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by jatinpatel

@sumeet
is the wire vissible from outside?

@sgtik

tried doing hammer way that you said too in past but still after a few days or a month or so it pops out again. Really pathetic way in which Honda has designed the fastening of the bumpers around corners.

Nopes,not at all. The wire was installed from the inside and was used to hold the places where it would have been difficult to use clips etc.

[dot]

Witnessed a bumper crack repair in summer when Scorponok was undergoing paint refinish job. It was on a Civic (not my car). The front bumper had a sharp vertical crack near the right fender. A wire mesh was heated and pressed till it buried itself in the plastic. Then they applied nitrocellulose coating to hide the bruise. Finally after polish, paint was applied. Yeah, it was slightly thicker, but there was no way to tell that the bumper had a crack hiding behind the top coat and base coat.

[sumeethaldankar]

I have noticed my Civic's reverse lights are very weak and even in a totaly dark area i have trouble seeing anything while reversing and have to rely soley on parking sensors.Can anyone suggest any alternative or work-around the feeble reverse lights.

thanks

[antz.bin]

Hello people. I have read through almost the entire thread. Please guide me on this.

I recently acquired a 51k old Oct 2007 Civic S-AT in late October. At the time of buying, I felt, during the Test Drive, that the brake pads had very little life left. But still went ahead with the purchase since most other things were in order. Now that we have reached 53.5k I feel I should get these brake pads changed.

1. Could anyone please guide me where I can source OEM equivalent Disc Pads for all 4 discs here in Pune. I would want to change all of them just as a precautionary measure.

2. If absolutely not available in Pune, we could try Mumbai but that is a last resort.

3. I know the OEMs cost somewhere around 4.5/5k a pair. How much do I stand to save by doing these antics?

4. The Disk rotors have not been changed even once as of now. What do you guys feel? At 53.5k is it about time? What should be costs of both OEM Disks and OEM equivalent Disks?

Edit: I am consistently getting 9.2/9.5 kmpl on extremely-light-right-foot driving where I dont even brake for 2-3km at a stretch. This was constant even with Highway driving involved. I have been using BPCL Normal unleaded. With Shell Normal, The FE was even lower at around 8.8kmpl. I feel this is a bit low-ish. Can something be done to improve this. Or is this alright? I would be happy with anything in 2 digits (even if it is 10.0). The car was 'supposedly' serviced by Mahindra First Choice when we were given delivery, the Air filter was cleaned and the oil+oil filter was changed at the time.

Also, what is a good interval for a suspension O/H?

[dot]

Originally Posted by antz.bin

1. Could anyone please guide me where I can source OEM equivalent Disc Pads for all 4 discs here in Pune. I would want to change all of them just as a precautionary measure.

In my experience, most independent garages in Pune source spare parts from Bombay. I have read that in Opera House area you get very good deals and pad pairs can be bought for half the price. So yeah, if you are planning to change all the four pads, maybe it is worthwhile to get it done in Bombay.

I would recommend to change the oil that Mahindra guys have administered as soon as possible and switch to Honda Idemitsu or something equivalent. The First Choice guys had added the cheapest oil in my car and it had turned to sooty black in a few months. The Honda Idemitsu oil didnt even change color after 6 months and 5k driving.

The FE number is quite ok. Maybe by increasing the tyre pressure to 33-34 psi, changing oil to synthetic, the FE can be pushed to double digits.

[manim]

Originally Posted by antz.bin

1. The Disk rotors have not been changed even once as of now. What do you guys feel? At 53.5k is it about time? What should be costs of both OEM Disks and OEM equivalent Disks?

2. I am consistently getting 9.2/9.5 kmpl on extremely-light-right-foot driving where I dont even brake for 2-3km at a stretch. This was constant even with Highway driving involved. I have been using BPCL Normal unleaded. With Shell Normal, The FE was even lower at around 8.8kmpl. I feel this is a bit low-ish. Can something be done to improve this. Or is this alright? I would be happy with anything in 2 digits (even if it is 10.0).

1. I had changed my front brake discs (along with the pads) at 40K since the car shuddered during braking. Cost was approx 4,500+4,500 (9k total), in April 2009.

2. The worst FE I get is around 12.5 kmpl during aggressive driving. I consistently get 14 to even 16 kmpl (On highways). you have to ensure 5th gear at speeds after around 68 kmph.

[civic-sense]

Originally Posted by antz.bin

Hello people. I have read through almost the entire thread. Please guide me on this.

I recently acquired a 51k old Oct 2007 Civic S-AT in late October. At the time of buying, I felt, during the Test Drive, that the brake pads had very little life left. But still went ahead with the purchase since most other things were in order. Now that we have reached 53.5k I feel I should get these brake pads changed.

Are you sure that the pads lasted 50+K? I had heard that in the ATs, they wear out faster. In my AT, it was changed at 25K (by the previous owner) and at 50K.

1. Could anyone please guide me where I can source OEM equivalent Disc Pads for all 4 discs here in Pune. I would want to change all of them just as a precautionary measure.
3. I know the OEMs cost somewhere around 4.5/5k a pair. How much do I stand to save by doing these antics?

Aftermarket brake pads, I guess, would cost you around 2K for a pair. Though many people in this forum would disagree with me, I wouldn't take a risk with the brakes. Even if the chances of finding a spurious piece is low, why take a chance. Afterall you have to spend an extra 3K every 25000 kms, and you can have peace of mind since you are running on genuine brake pads.

4. The Disk rotors have not been changed even once as of now. What do you guys feel? At 53.5k is it about time? What should be costs of both OEM Disks and OEM equivalent Disks?

I think it will last longer. At 55K, I still have the original rotors, but did skimming at 50K. If your discs don't show any irregular surface, and you don't have any shuddering while braking, leave it as it is.

Edit: I am consistently getting 9.2/9.5 kmpl on extremely-light-right-foot driving where I dont even brake for 2-3km at a stretch. This was constant even with Highway driving involved. I have been using BPCL Normal unleaded. With Shell Normal, The FE was even lower at around 8.8kmpl. I feel this is a bit low-ish. Can something be done to improve this. Or is this alright? I would be happy with anything in 2 digits (even if it is 10.0). The car was 'supposedly' serviced by Mahindra First Choice when we were given delivery, the Air filter was cleaned and the oil+oil filter was changed at the time.

I do not drive with a light foot, but still only manage 9-10 for a mix of city and highway driving. For pure highway, the best I have managed to get is a 13.5, 12 being the average.

Also, what is a good interval for a suspension O/H?

Even I would like to know about this. Anybody?

[dot]

Originally Posted by antz.bin

Also, what is a good interval for a suspension O/H?

Originally Posted by civic-sense

Even I would like to know about this. Anybody?

General funda:

Suspension is usually retorqued during service. Civics have about 4 pairs of bolts to be retorqued. If shock absorbers are leaking, it needs to be replaced. Springs will replacement if they have become too bouncy. For example if you push the car near any one corner and car continues to bounce for more than two times, it is time to change the suspension. A good spring will resist the push very hard and will hardly bounce even once.

[vasoo]

Originally Posted by civic-sense

Are you sure that the pads lasted 50+K? I had heard that in the ATs, they wear out faster. In my AT, it was changed at 25K (by the previous owner) and at 50K.

AT or MT, the brake pad wear is a function of driving style. AT brake pads will wear faster if the car is driven like an MT; Practices like not using paddles to simulate engine braking, keeping the brakes depressed while in D mode etc will add up.

Aftermarket brake pads, I guess, would cost you around 2K for a pair. Though many people in this forum would disagree with me, I wouldn't take a risk with the brakes. Even if the chances of finding a spurious piece is low, why take a chance. After all you have to spend an extra 3K every 25000 kms, and you can have peace of mind since you are running on genuine brake pads.

I fully concur on this. I would never try out after market for critical parts, especially for brakes. It is not just about being "penny wise, pound foolish", but it could possibly compromise safety as well.

I do not drive with a light foot, but still only manage 9-10 for a mix of city and highway driving. For pure highway, the best I have managed to get is a 13.5, 12 being the average.

Even I would like to know about this. Anybody?

In 100% city drives, I also don't get much above 10kmpl, that too with judicious use of paddles in S mode. However in highway, I consistently get above 14 kmpl, on relaxed driving and about 12.5 on being somewhat aggressive. Recently I managed to get 18 kmpl on an FE run over 100 kms, a screen shot was posted earlier in this thread. My tyres, MPLC with 34 Psi pressure might be helping in this.

[manim]

Originally Posted by civic-sense

Are you sure that the pads lasted 50+K? I had heard that in the ATs, they wear out faster. In my AT, it was changed at 25K (by the previous owner) and at 50K.

Originally Posted by vasoo

AT or MT, the brake pad wear is a function of driving style.

vasoo is correct.
My second set of front-brake-pads have done 56K and looks like will do another 10K.
(details posted already on this thread for my 95K service).

[antz.bin]

I guess then I was hypermiling all this while. Because I switched to a more normal style of driving (still about 70% less aggressive than how I ride my bike) and the FE has gone down to a cool 6.4kmpl (87km in 13.7 liters). This is purely city with zero redlining. I think I barely went over 3k RPM. Something has to be seriously wrong. Still running 30 Psi on the tyres.

[dot]

Originally Posted by antz.bin

the FE has gone down to a cool 6.4kmpl (87km in 13.7 liters). This is purely city with zero redlining.

Where are you filling petrol? It is possible that dispenser metering may be erroneous. Waiting for signal with AC on takes about 1L petrol in one hour, that too could be a factor here.

[antz.bin]

Originally Posted by dot

Where are you filling petrol? It is possible that dispenser metering may be erroneous. Waiting for signal with AC on takes about 1L petrol in one hour, that too could be a factor here.

No change in Petrol. Filling Normal Unleaded Petrol at BPCL CoCo @RTO Pune. It was approx 7 bars on the fuel gauge. The route is what I normally take. Wakdewadi to Pimpri/Khadki and back. Maybe I will re-check everything before I start panicking. After the 6.xkmpl stunt that the car has done, I have even started turning the engine off on the traffic signals which frankly are not too many on these routes (5 signals in 20km till Pimpri, 2 signals in a Khadki return trip).

[gaurav_diavolo]

Originally Posted by antz.bin

No change in Petrol. Filling Normal Unleaded Petrol at BPCL CoCo @RTO Pune. It was approx 7 bars on the fuel gauge. The route is what I normally take. Wakdewadi to Pimpri/Khadki and back. Maybe I will re-check everything before I start panicking. After the 6.xkmpl stunt that the car has done, I have even started turning the engine off on the traffic signals which frankly are not too many on these routes (5 signals in 20km till Pimpri, 2 signals in a Khadki return trip).

IMO:
1) Upgrade air pressure to 32psi.
2) change the petrol pump. Possible that you are getting it filled from an old pump but employees and mal-practices keep changing....just for your satisfaction, change the pump for the time being.
3) Get car serviced! Fuel Filter could be the culprit here, engine oil too or even air or oil filter. A small routine service elevates the FE every time.
4) Reasonable Expectations! 10 kmpl in city and 12-14 kmpl on highway is what Civic gives. Period. If you achieve these, be happy and enjoy your ride. Do not chase 16s or 18s, mile after mile your driving experience in a 'smooth and refined car as silk' would be lost in chasing above average FE and you don't wanna waste that precious driving fun in looking at the rising and dipping FE gauge. Drive light footed and enjoy the lovely car.

[ramanak]

Guys,

Found a new problem yesterday during my trip to Chennai.Steering starts to vibrate at speeds over 90-100 KMPH. The vibration is present during running (not just during braking). Car has done 36000 Km and is still on stock Bridgestone.

Could it just be a wheel alignment issue or something else.I got the Wheel alignment done just during last service at Whitefield Honda.There is also some kind of tyre noise on the Driver side (Front).

Thanks.