[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by hserus

Just get amsoil 5w40 turbo truck synthetic which is ck4 rated. Or mobil delvac 1 5w40 which is synthetic ci4+ rated.

You just need one 3.5 litre can I guess, for an i20?

Earlier I was using Delvac 1 and changing it at 15k interval which we used to cover in an year usually. Since lock down and with addition of another car in the garage the running of the i20 has come down drastically. Barely does 5k kms a year. Hence switched over to Rimula R4 and yearly change interval.

It needs 5.3 litres according to the manual. Although I have been using 5L can all these years and it's sufficient

[prabhu.reddy92]

Originally Posted by hserus

Amsoil 5w40 turbo truck. They also have a 5w30 diesel oil, both rated ck4.

Hi Sir,

I have serviced my car as mentioned and used AMSOIL TURBO TRUCK 5W-40 for my 2019 i20 1.4 CRDI.
I have been going through the forum quite extensively and found that older Hyundai diesels (before 2018) were recommended to use 5W-40 whereas newer one's (after 2018) are suggested 5W-30.
Even the manual suggests to go for 5W-30 unless the area we drive is having extreme temperatures.

And, I have read that these new engines have redesigned oil flow systems which are thinner and hence Hyundai recommending 5W-30 for easy flow of the oil.

I am afraid now because of this. What might be the impact?
I drive mostly in cities and less on highways and Indian temperatures anyhow touch beyond 45 degree Celsius in few parts of our country so hoping that 5W-40 will not do any damage to my engine.

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Earlier I was using Delvac 1 and changing it at 15k interval which we used to cover in an year usually.

Hi,

I have read that you have an i20 diesel car.
Is it purchased after 2018 or before 2018?
If after 2018, any issues faced by using Delvac 1?(Hoping you used Delvac 1 5W-40)

I am asking this because, Hyundai is recommending 5W-30 for diesel engines from 2018 and I have just filled AMSOIL TURBO TRUCK 5W-40 in my 2019 i20 diesel.

As mentioned in my previous post, I am worried now

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by prabhu.reddy92

Hi,

I have read that you have an i20 diesel car.
Is it purchased after 2018 or before 2018?
If after 2018, any issues faced by using Delvac 1?(Hoping you used Delvac 1 5W-40)

I am asking this because, Hyundai is recommending 5W-30 for diesel engines from 2018 and I have just filled AMSOIL TURBO TRUCK 5W-40 in my 2019 i20 diesel.

As mentioned in my previous post, I am worried now

Mine is a 2010 model.

You need not worry about 5w40 instead of 5w30. You may see a slight drop in fuel economy. In fact 5w40 will provide better protection than 5w30. Going one grade above manufacturer recommendations is fine but not going one grade below. Say filling 5w20 instead of 5w30. Doing so will definitely accelerate the wear and tear of the engine.

[zeng]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Yes, i20 diesel comes with a timing chain.

I will continue using the Shell Rimula R4 which is a heavy duty API CI4+ rated mineral oil.

Any mineral oil with HDEO CI4+/CI4 or ACEA E7 would offer thicker oil film thickness to i20 diesel timing chain than an ACEA B4.

Originally Posted by prabhu.reddy92

Hi Sir,

I have serviced my car as mentioned and used AMSOIL TURBO TRUCK 5W-40 for my 2019 i20 1.4 CRDI.
I have been going through the forum quite extensively and found that older Hyundai diesels (before 2018) were recommended to use 5W-40 whereas newer one's (after 2018) are suggested 5W-30.
Even the manual suggests to go for 5W-30 unless the area we drive is having extreme temperatures.

And, I have read that these new engines have redesigned oil flow systems which are thinner and hence Hyundai recommending 5W-30 for easy flow of the oil.

45°C ambients?
I would personally prefer a xW40 to a 5W30 (which is meant for fuel economy) for its components protection with options to push the i20 diesel hard.

[rnkaushal]

Originally Posted by Kishen.padiyar

Hey Suresh, just wanted to know if you have tried any other grade other than 5W-30 (in full synthetics) during your Fiesta days?

I have a 09' Fiesta 1.4TDCi with 1.54L on the odo and have been using 5W-30 so far largely mineral but have switched to synthetics off late. I am currently running on Olipes Averoil 5W-30 that is API SN/CF ACEA C3 (yes it is a less known brand but it's from Spain).

For the next oil change I am contemplating Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-30 Newer Vehicle Formula that is rated at API SN,SM and CF with ACEA A1/B1. Wondering if should pick up the top of the line Mobil 1 full synthetic 0W-40 with API SN,SM and CF with ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 instead?

While I am not concerned about the 0W rating, the 40 v/s 30 is what is bothering me. In theory since my engine has put up good amount of miles a slightly thicker oil should not be a concern but thought of having a quick check with you.

Originally Posted by hserus

Good old Honda iDTEC is quite happy with 5w40 A3/B4 like Shell Helix Ultra.

But Honda changed their guidance to use low viscosity 0w30 / 0w20 oils quite a few years back, though I doubt their engines have seen any substantial upgrade in the meantime. All they have achieved is to switch their service interval to every 6 months.

For a standard iDTEC if the engine has not changed since around 2014 when they changed the guidance, go ahead and just pour Shell Helix Ultra 5w40.

Honda ASS is using idemitsu 0w20 for all their petrol cars. Since this oil is hard to source in Mysore this time, I’ve gone ahead and purchased shell helix hx8 0w20. I guess that should be fine for Honda city 1.5 ivtec 2013?

[pta320]

Just a quick question to the people who are using synthetic oil like Amsoil for extended intervals, do you use the OEM oil filter or manage to get a high performance oil filter, if so which one?

The reason why I am asking is, although the highest quality oils like Amsoil signature last 3-4 times more than the regular conventional oil but the OEM oil filter is only rated for the manufacturer recommended drain interval post which it will simply get too clogged and bypass the oil and the unfiltered oil will not protect the components very well which make the need of a high quality filter in such cases.

[hserus]

Just take advantage of the increased smoothness and nvh reduction Amsoil gives you. Don't test its extended drain capacity with OEM filters.

Some of the filters such as the Mahindra one are rated for 20k km, but for mostly city use, you'd be better off changing even those at 10k.

Originally Posted by pta320

Just a quick question to the people who are using synthetic oil like Amsoil for extended intervals, do you use the OEM oil filter or manage to get a high performance oil filter, if so which one?

The reason why I am asking is, although the highest quality oils like Amsoil signature last 3-4 times more than the regular conventional oil but the OEM oil filter is only rated for the manufacturer recommended drain interval post which it will simply get too clogged and bypass the oil and the unfiltered oil will not protect the components very well which make the need of a high quality filter in such cases.

[pta320]

Originally Posted by hserus

Just take advantage of the increased smoothness and nvh reduction Amsoil gives you. Don't test its extended drain capacity with OEM filters.

Some of the filters such as the Mahindra one are rated for 20k km, but for mostly city use, you'd be better off changing even those at 10k.

Yes that's true and understandable. However I am trying to keep my car maintenance budget to minimal these days due to some financial challanges.

One idea I have is to just replace the oil filter post 10k mark . I strongly believe that Amsoil or Mobil1 can be stretched to 15k kms under Indian driving conditions especially for me since almost 10k of those kms would be on highway which is like a third of running the same km in city.

[hserus]

Originally Posted by pta320

Yes that's true and understandable. However I am trying to keep my car maintenance budget to minimal these days due to some financial challanges.

One idea I have is to just replace the oil filter post 10k mark . I strongly believe that Amsoil or Mobil1 can be stretched to 15k kms under Indian driving conditions especially for me since almost 10k of those kms would be on highway which is like a third of running the same km in city.

You will save a lot more by using the OEM oil or any cheaper oil that meets the grade and doing regular maintenance that is whatever is prescribed for the car, without any added extras the dealer suggests.

[pta320]

Originally Posted by hserus

You will save a lot more by using the OEM oil or any cheaper oil that meets the grade and doing regular maintenance that is whatever is prescribed for the car, without any added extras the dealer suggests.

I self maintain my car for almost all the preventive works like oil change, coolant, gear oil etc. and haven't visited dealership for a very long time now, it's a lot cheaper this way. But I don't want to use the OEM conventional oil because of sludge buildup issues especially on my Corolla which is notorious for sludging up, and the fully synthetic oil at 10k still doesn't cause any buildup. Maybe I'll just try to stretch the next Amsoil oil change to 15k kms with a new filter. Amsoil claims that it's good for an year or 25k miles, I usually touch 15k kms in an year so it should be a lot of life left for the oil if filter is holding up.

[hserus]

You won't get sludge build up in your car unless you think 10k km covered in 2-3 years means ok you can change oil 3 years later.

If you do that sort of thing you could pour molten 24 karat gold instead of amsoil and it still would sludge your engine.

Originally Posted by pta320

I self maintain my car for almost all the preventive works like oil change, coolant, gear oil etc. and haven't visited dealership for a very long time now, it's a lot cheaper this way. But I don't want to use the OEM conventional oil because of sludge buildup issues especially on my Corolla which is notorious for sludging up, and the fully synthetic oil at 10k still doesn't cause any buildup. Maybe I'll just try to stretch the next Amsoil oil change to 15k kms with a new filter. Amsoil claims that it's good for an year or 25k miles, I usually touch 15k kms in an year so it should be a lot of life left for the oil if filter is holding up.

[pta320]

Originally Posted by hserus

You won't get sludge build up in your car unless you think 10k km covered in 2-3 years means ok you can change oil 3 years later.

If you do that sort of thing you could pour molten 24 karat gold instead of amsoil and it still would sludge your engine.

I mean I am just saying that Toyota Corolla with 1ZZ engine is infamous for sludging up with conventional oil not changed within an year or maybe even less and 10k kms. You need to be little more cautious with these engines so synthetic is the go to oil and I just can't go ahead with cheap OEM conventional oil. It will cost almost same as fully synthetic as former would require replacement in 6 months for this car. Now usually I feel that high quality full synth can be stretched to 18 months and 15k kms if filter is changed once or you use a high performance aftermarket filter. In that way you are fully utilising the oils worth and it will be cheaper than changing conventional oil twice in a year and also it will justify going for such apex quality oil.

And fully synthetic oil like Amsoil or mob1 won't sludge up even in 3 years at 10k kms, no way it's recommended to change oil in 3 years. The only reason oil has an expiry of one year irrespective of the mileage after being opened is because of the moisture and contaminants it absorbs which will affect the properties of the oil, it will turn acidic, will oxidise and degrade the internals of the engine although it may still protect somewhat from wear and tear and retain its viscosity. But with full syth, it's unlikely to sludge up.

A conventional oil will be a complete disaster after an year and will sludge up very fast thanks to the natural petroleum that breaks down and ruin the engine even if the mileage is within the limits. Neither will it maintain its viscosity nor will it provide any sort of acceptable cleaning or protection. That's why I never put conventional oil in any of my cars. It's just not worth it.

I just want to maximize the drain interval of an expensive top grade fully synthetic oil so that's why was focusing on the oil filter as it will give up much earlier than the oil.

[hserus]

But who told you Toyota is using mineral here? They’re using synthetic blends. It has been over a decade since anyone used conventional aka mineral oil as the oem default such as 20w40 oils for old Marutis.

[pta320]

Originally Posted by hserus

But who told you Toyota is using mineral here? They’re using synthetic blends. It has been over a decade since anyone used conventional aka mineral oil as the oem default such as 20w40 oils for old Marutis.

Synthetic blend or semi synthetic is just a marketing gimmick. Those still contain naturally occuring petroleum and are subject to sludge issues just like mineral oil. In fact I'd say its better to put much cheaper mineral oil than paying more for semi synthetic with insignificant benefits. Either go full synth or just bite the bullet and stick with the mineral oil and save money if you are not planning to keep car for long.

I try to keep my cars for as long as RTO allows me to keep the rc valid so I just buy the full synth all the time.

[hserus]

If you have that concern then change your oil at 7000 or so km.

And you have to keep using your car regularly, hopefully on the highway, to avoid any sludge or clogging or other issues.

Originally Posted by pta320

Synthetic blend or semi synthetic is just a marketing gimmick. Those still contain naturally occuring petroleum and are subject to sludge issues just like mineral oil. In fact I'd say its better to put much cheaper mineral oil than paying more for semi synthetic with insignificant benefits. Either go full synth or just bite the bullet and stick with the mineral oil and save money if you are not planning to keep car for long.

I try to keep my cars for as long as RTO allows me to keep the rc valid so I just buy the full synth all the time.