[sudeep11787]

I have JBL CS4 4" front, Pioneer 6x9s rear, and a pioneer HU. My HU has no LPF/HPF settings. Overall sound quality is decent , but i am not at all happy with the sound stage.
Now i have 2 options:
1. 4- Channel Amp + Sub (bass tube/ported)
2. Xenos active subs( 8" powered)

Personally i get the feeling that putting the xenos one under my seat might be a good option.

Help me bhpians.
My priorities:
1. Soundstage
2. Mid range (I love the sounds of drums) Blink 182/Iron Maiden/ Metallica/ Creed/ u2
3. Nice low bass. I hate boominess. A slight thump is all i need.

Budget: 10-15 K for amp+sub combo.

[deepfusion]

Sorry sirs, back again with another query:

What sound difference (in terms of clean sound) would be there if

a 2 channel amplifier is used to power the front components

as against

a 4 channel amplifier is used in bridged mode to power the front components.

[k2max6]

Originally Posted by deepfusion

Sorry sirs, back again with another query:

What sound difference (in terms of clean sound) would be there if

a 2 channel amplifier is used to power the front components

as against

a 4 channel amplifier is used in bridged mode to power the front components.

No difference if the amplifiers are of similar specs , other than the difference in the number of channels. For instance the JBL X-424 and the JBL x-646 amp.

You don't need to bridge the channels for providing input to the components.You bridge to power the sub.So in any case only 2 channels are used to power a set of components be it any n channel amp.

[deepfusion]

Originally Posted by k2max6

No difference if the amplifiers are of similar specs , other than the difference in the number of channels. For instance the JBL X-424 and the JBL x-646 amp.

You don't need to bridge the channels for providing input to the components.You bridge to power the sub.So in any case only 2 channels are used to power a set of components be it any n channel amp.

But what about damping factor? I don't know much about it, but still, it must have got something to do with the quality.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by deepfusion

But what about damping factor? ... must have got something to do with the quality.

It has something to do with ability, not sound quality. An amp with a higher damping factor is better able to control current dumped into the load.

Don't worry, this is an issue only when dealing with higher loads and power, especially driving subs. It is not necessary that at normal levels an amp with a slightly higher Damping Factor will perform / sound better than another with a slightly lower one.

Originally Posted by k2max6

... You don't need to bridge the channels for providing input to the components ...

Yes and no. Normally no, you don't need to bridge to drive components. However, if one wants to drive higher power through the components (ignore the why), there is nothing that says CAN'T or SHOULDN'T.

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by deepfusion

But what about damping factor? I don't know much about it, but still, it must have got something to do with the quality.

Damping is the ratio of the speaker impedance to the amplifier impedance. The higher the damping the less is the tendency to boom. This is the main reason why higher impedance speakers are preferred.

[deepfusion]

Another noob question:

How is one brand of amplifier better than another brand of amplifier, though both have the same outputs?

[tazmaan]

I am taking the delivery of the new Innova Vx today. I wanted to know if its possible to install GPS on the oem device using after market fittings?

I am ok with installing gps module and software but not changing the whole system. Thanks .

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by deepfusion

... How is one brand of amplifier better than another brand of amplifier, though both have the same outputs?

On the face of it, they aren't - if all declared tech specs are comparable, say +/- 5%
* Don't compare BRANDS - the comparison is at model level. For example, DLS Sweden has at least 3 model lines of amps, and perhaps more than 8 for speakers
* If one *really* starts diving into the absolute values of the parameters - with respect to the application - there are always a few parameters that make one amp better than another. For example, the Damping Factor - higher the better; unfortunately this is not published by most manufacturers
* There are discernible factors that one can perceive in the individual outputs (but can hardly be systematically put down as technical data). For example, 'metallic', bright / neutral / laid back, harsh etc. These are things one can sense only when one takes an audition (one man's meat is ...), and should not be taken for granted. We don't all hear the same thing in the output - the only thing that should matter is what you hear

Originally Posted by tazmaan

... I wanted to know if its possible to install GPS on the oem device using after market fittings? ...

Check the manual of the unit. If GPS is mentioned as an accessory (separately purchased) then you can.

Otherwise, if you want an integrated unit, you need to replace the whole HU. I would prefer an external GPS unit (like from Garmin, Tomtom or MMI) for the convenience of being able to detach and carry for use in another vehicle, e.g. rental car.

[deepfusion]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

On the face of it, they aren't - if all declared tech specs are comparable, say +/- 5%
* Don't compare BRANDS - the comparison is at model level. For example, DLS Sweden has at least 3 model lines of amps, and perhaps more than 8 for speakers
* If one *really* starts diving into the absolute values of the parameters - with respect to the application - there are always a few parameters that make one amp better than another. For example, the Damping Factor - higher the better; unfortunately this is not published by most manufacturers
* There are discernible factors that one can perceive in the individual outputs (but can hardly be systematically put down as technical data). For example, 'metallic', bright / neutral / laid back, harsh etc. These are things one can sense only when one takes an audition (one man's meat is ...), and should not be taken for granted. We don't all hear the same thing in the output - the only thing that should matter is what you hear

Thanks, Sir. As a rule of thumb, can we take one brand to be better than the other?

To be specific, I am trying to change the way I am using the amp in my car, from JBL 4 channel (in bridged mode, of course) to AVI ABH1002, a two channel amp giving out 100W*2 at 4 ohms. the comps being used are, focal 165vb.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by deepfusion

... As a rule of thumb, can we take one brand to be better than the other? ...

The real rule of thumb in such a situation would be based on statistics .
* Any company which has heavy investment in R&D, and has (non-cosmetic) model refreshes periodically, stands a better chance of putting out really good products

* Yes, it is possible that a brilliant technology person puts together a REALLY superb product, but 99% chances are they will service their product from their 'assembly' location and won't have a service network

* All other brands would be either putting a sticker on a generic white-labelled or a mass market cheap product - again, without a service network

* And then there are the fakes / duplicates

Originally Posted by deepfusion

... from JBL 4 channel (in bridged mode, of course) to AVI ABH1002, a two channel amp giving out 100W*2 at 4 ohms. the comps being used are, focal 165vb.

Can't say - haven't heard that amp. Maybe the installers on the forum (blueraven, B&T, LBM etc.) would be able to comment on that if they have used it.

The only real solution for you is to audition it in the car to see if you like the sound it puts out.

[kicha]

Originally Posted by navin

The base Coax speakers from JBL (GT6 series), Blaupunkt, etc. would fit your budget.

hi Navin, Quick question which one is better of the two ie GTO 948 or the GT6 series?Any remarkable difference you r aware of between the two models/series?

[navin]

Originally Posted by kicha

hi Navin, Quick question which one is better of the two ie GTO 948 or the GT6 series?Any remarkable difference you r aware of between the two models/series?

The GTO is better built that the GT6. I have not heard the 948 (just the 947 SE) and also only the GT5 not the GT6 so I cant tell for sure but I would assume the GT6 would be voiced the same as the GT5.

[sathyaprakash]

Navin i have used S50 Boston 5.25 Component with original HU in my Duster without changing the rear Coaxial speakers the sound produced now is far better my friend advised me to retain the rear speakers saying it may not bring an big change to SQ.

Now please advice me whether to retain the OE rear speakers or to change the rear speakers (model NO. please) to a better coaxial ones or an component for better overall SQ? without adding an AMP.

[navin]

Originally Posted by sathyaprakash

Navin i have used S50 Boston 5.25 Component with original HU in my Duster without changing the rear Coaxial speakers ..Now please advice me whether to retain the OE rear speakers or to change the rear speakers (model NO. please) to a better coaxial ones or an component for better overall SQ? without adding an AMP.

If the rear seats are seldom used and when used the audio is not used then why bother. If you do want to bother (someone does listen to audio in the rear) then I would choose a speaker that is from the same brand and model range as the front speakers. It ensures some uniformity in the sound/voicing.