Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!

Piyush_Vroom · 30th September 2009, 20:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankmehta

Congratulations. I didn't pick up the PPI's thinking they were cheap, so must not be too great, but yes, they give a tough fight to components even double their cost. I am so tempted to pick up a set for the heck of it!

you can get them from ebay global buy cheaper than KMD. only 10.4k inclusive of everything shipped to your home.
I missed the deal paying 12k to KMD :(

frankmehta · 30th September 2009, 20:11

But we dont know if Global Buy actually delivers on time and in good condition. Also they have no such rules for RMA/Warranty. Stick to KMD man. 1.6k for a year of warranty is a joke!

Piyush_Vroom · 30th September 2009, 23:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankmehta

But we dont know if Global Buy actually delivers on time and in good condition. Also they have no such rules for RMA/Warranty. Stick to KMD man. 1.6k for a year of warranty is a joke!

Yep.Very True.Thats why sticking with KMD. I have decided to go for Pioneer p800 prs as my head unit. Rather than P80 RS II. as the former has a copper chassis. Is there any difference in both except than the radio in US and Asia model.

frankmehta · 1st October 2009, 00:20

Pioneer 8850 VS P80 RSII - DIY Mobile Audio

stay tuned here ;-)

Piyush_Vroom · 1st October 2009, 01:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankmehta

Pioneer 8850 VS P80 RSII - DIY Mobile Audio

stay tuned here ;-)

Frank bro its all about 8850 and p80RS II

I need to know about difference between P80RS II(Asian Model) and P800 prs(US Model)

One diff i know is that the US model has copper chassis. what other diff are there

Piyush_Vroom · 1st October 2009, 01:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankmehta

Pioneer 8850 VS P80 RSII - DIY Mobile Audio

stay tuned here ;-)

How about this
Difference between P800RS and P880 RS? - DIY Mobile Audio

frankmehta · 4th October 2009, 23:17

Ok guys. Made some changes.

Crossovers have been shifted slightly up on the rack to facilitate easy adjustments (tweeter levels, phase etc)
Sub-woofer enclosure has been stuffed with a kilo of Polyfill.
Rear speakers couldn't be removed due to Ford's stupid policy of giving a NON-foldable rear seat on the S. I will have to dismantle the whole seat and remove the speakers.
The rear parcel shelf is going to be fibre glassed. There is WAY too much flex and vibration.
Work is underway on the tweeter pods.

Photos:

pranava999 · 4th October 2009, 23:27

The tweeter pod project is quite interesting. Waiting to see the final instal

navin · 5th October 2009, 10:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankmehta

[*]Sub-woofer enclosure has been stuffed with a kilo of Polyfill.[*]The rear parcel shelf is going to be fibre glassed. There is WAY too much flex and vibration.

1. dont over stuff the box. it will deaden the bass. Best way is to do an impedance sweep but 1 pound of stuffing per cubic foot of box volume is what I'd start with. A little more but that's it.

2. do the Fiber glassing in layers. After each layer check the weight. I would even go so far as to sandwich a thin sheet of 3-4mm MDF beween the layers. Fiberglass while stuff is not a well damped material and the wood will help damp resonances.

gigy · 5th October 2009, 12:21

Tweeter pods seem to be shapping up nicely, waiting for the final finish. what kind of paint are you using on the plastic part?

whats the new craze with copper chassis? particularly when there is no power amplifier in it?

santosh.s · 5th October 2009, 14:34

gigy, I thought copper chassis is used solely to reduce EMI (as in Electro-Magnetic Interference, not the banking jargon popular these days

) from outside(?) If so, why do you associate it with power amplification?

gigy · 5th October 2009, 18:05

Copper conducts heat better than whatever material (aluminum) is used in normal head units power amplifier, but this head unit doesn't have a power amplifier built in.
Less EMI with copper, ya possible but how much?
The whole chassis doesn't look copper?

santosh.s · 5th October 2009, 21:23

A quick google search revealed that though copper is more conductive (both heat and electricity), aluminum is more commonly used for heat sinks, because it has a lot of advantages over copper- costs much lesser, is light weight and it is more inert (copper deteriorates much more easily over time).

I could be wrong, but I doubt (based on my limited knowledge) if "chassis" serves as (or is meant to aid) heat sinks even in HUs with power amplifiers. From pictures, the HU does seem to have copper chassis all around.

Regarding how much lesser EMI with copper, well any question starting with "how much" is debatable in high end audio! let us not get into that.

navin · 6th October 2009, 11:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by santosh.s

it is more inert (copper deteriorates much more easily over time). From pictures, the HU does seem to have copper chassis all around.Regarding how much lesser EMI with copper, well any question starting with "how much" is debatable in high end audio! let us not get into that.

Alminum can be anodised. Anodising is a process by which a controlled ammout of Al2O3 is allowe to form over the Aluminum substrate. Al2O3 is pretty inert and hardy to corrosion. With Anodising you can even tint the aluminum substrate various colours by choosing the right solutions.

As far as EMI is concnerned Copper and Brass are found to work best. I can provide emperical/anecdotal data as well as technical reasons but this would involve delving into the depths of the theory of RF (Radio Frequency) transmission and interference. Seriously OT here.

Copper when used is covered with lacquer to prevent it being oxidised. If you open a Marantz product that has Ken Ishiwata's signature on it you will see copper plate used to shield the electronics from the Power supply. In fact David Price has a copper bodied version of this CD Player commissioned by Marantz
Marantz cd63 david price photo image by Rusky_Biscuit on Photobucket

Atleast one copper CD63KI (David Price special) saw a very sorry end. A well meaning wife decided to clean the fingerprints on the CD player and damaged the lacquer. The Copper then oxidised and looked so bad that eventually a standard black box was ordered to replace the old gleaming copper box. Then one day the batteries of the CD player's remote that was lying on top of the CD player leaked and acid streaked out of the remote all over the CD player's front. So now the CD player is getting a new box made from SS and covered in anodised aluminum (choice of colour - red, blue, green, black, silver or gold). The colour choice will depend on what colour the Valve amp's box is (the valve amps are still being de-bugged). Sorry for the OT rant.

Bass&Trouble · 6th October 2009, 16:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by gigy

what kind of paint are you using on the plastic part?

Automotive paint. Same color as that of the pillar cladding.

30th September 2009, 20:11	#107
frankmehta Senior - BHPian Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Mumbai Posts: 4,000 Thanked: 3,577 Times View My Garage	But we dont know if Global Buy actually delivers on time and in good condition. Also they have no such rules for RMA/Warranty. Stick to KMD man. 1.6k for a year of warranty is a joke!
	() Thanks

1st October 2009, 00:20	#109
frankmehta Senior - BHPian Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Mumbai Posts: 4,000 Thanked: 3,577 Times View My Garage	Pioneer 8850 VS P80 RSII - DIY Mobile Audio stay tuned here ;-)
	() Thanks

4th October 2009, 23:17	#112
frankmehta Senior - BHPian Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Mumbai Posts: 4,000 Thanked: 3,577 Times View My Garage	Ok guys. Made some changes. Crossovers have been shifted slightly up on the rack to facilitate easy adjustments (tweeter levels, phase etc) Sub-woofer enclosure has been stuffed with a kilo of Polyfill. Rear speakers couldn't be removed due to Ford's stupid policy of giving a NON-foldable rear seat on the S. I will have to dismantle the whole seat and remove the speakers. The rear parcel shelf is going to be fibre glassed. There is WAY too much flex and vibration. Work is underway on the tweeter pods. Photos: Attached Thumbnails Last edited by frankmehta : 4th October 2009 at 23:22. Reason: added more pictures
	() Thanks

4th October 2009, 23:27	#113
pranava999 BHPian Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: BANGALORE Posts: 845 Thanked: 23 Times View My Garage	The tweeter pod project is quite interesting. Waiting to see the final instal
	() Thanks

5th October 2009, 12:21	#115
gigy Senior - BHPian Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: mumbai Posts: 1,321 Thanked: 47 Times	Tweeter pods seem to be shapping up nicely, waiting for the final finish. what kind of paint are you using on the plastic part? whats the new craze with copper chassis? particularly when there is no power amplifier in it? Last edited by gigy : 5th October 2009 at 12:23.
	() Thanks

5th October 2009, 14:34	#116
santosh.s Senior - BHPian Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Bangalore Posts: 1,077 Thanked: 70 Times View My Garage	gigy, I thought copper chassis is used solely to reduce EMI (as in Electro-Magnetic Interference, not the banking jargon popular these days) from outside(?) If so, why do you associate it with power amplification?
	() Thanks

5th October 2009, 18:05	#117
gigy Senior - BHPian Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: mumbai Posts: 1,321 Thanked: 47 Times	Copper conducts heat better than whatever material (aluminum) is used in normal head units power amplifier, but this head unit doesn't have a power amplifier built in. Less EMI with copper, ya possible but how much? The whole chassis doesn't look copper?
	() Thanks

5th October 2009, 21:23	#118
santosh.s Senior - BHPian Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Bangalore Posts: 1,077 Thanked: 70 Times View My Garage	A quick google search revealed that though copper is more conductive (both heat and electricity), aluminum is more commonly used for heat sinks, because it has a lot of advantages over copper- costs much lesser, is light weight and it is more inert (copper deteriorates much more easily over time). I could be wrong, but I doubt (based on my limited knowledge) if "chassis" serves as (or is meant to aid) heat sinks even in HUs with power amplifiers. From pictures, the HU does seem to have copper chassis all around. Regarding how much lesser EMI with copper, well any question starting with "how much" is debatable in high end audio! let us not get into that.
	() Thanks