[vasudeva]

Your view. But there are limited SATA slots and movie storage has shifted from CD size to DVD/mkv (5-10 GB) and to blu ray (>25-30GB).
Unless there is a substantially higher variable cost of manufacture, I see 6TB becoming as cheap as 4TB in 2015.
FYI, there was a time in 2007 when we had 80GB disks. Now one would be hard pressed to justify buying a 500GB disk.
As long as one has multiple backups, why worry about disks failing. Apart from keeping multiple backups of docs, photos, music, and software installers, I even keep 1 backup of my movies. Pretty expensive to keep that but worthwhile for me.

4TB hard disk can only store around say 100-120 blu ray.
If you have read, greater than 4TB pushes the hard disk technology into a new (so far untested) direction. 6TB is the first step in that direction and perhaps we might see double digit capacity hard disks in 2-3 years.

You may recall that 2.2TB was the earlier operating system frontier and win 7/GPT addressed that issue. Now one can just plug and play with 4TB.

Higher capacity solves the need for having higher SATA ports and also cabinet that has that much space. I have a x79 mobo which has 6 native ports and 2 Marvell SATA III ports. I do not use the 2 Marvell ports at all and use 5 native ports (1 SSD, and 4 hard disks of 14TB total). One SATA port goes into DVD. Newer chipsets even have 10 native ports. For me, I would prefer storage capacity to be well distributed between internal (60%), and external (40-50%). So higher capacity gives more flexibility in planning internal storage.

[nareshov]

"Who makes the most reliable hard drives?" - http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/1...le-hard-drives

Server-grade disks, not consumer-grade. Yet worth a read.

[ahmad.007]

I recently bought a WD Blue 1 TB internal HDD after much research. I read at quite a few places on the net that 'especially' the 1 TB versions of Seagate drives are failing a lot, and that is why I stayed away from the 'Barracuda'-s, even though they give slightly better performance. WD is better in terms of reliability, whereas Seagate in terms of performance. But that is my perception, many WD drives die within a month, but those are just bad drives I guess.

[deathwalkr]

Originally Posted by ahmad.007

Your selection is good . Although your graphics card, which one is it? There is none by the name HD 6700 that you mentioned, did you mean HD 6670?
And the RAMs have become so damn expensive, almost a year ago 2*4 GB vengeance would have costed around 3k-3.5k. They are likely to go down soon, see if you can wait.

Hey sorry got tied up with work...the graphics card is XFX AMD Radeon 6770.

Got the pc assembled on Sunday and it is nice to have a good machine Previous one was 5 years old

So final list is:

AMD FX4300 Proc
Asus M5A97 Evo R2.0 Mobo
8GB Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz RAM
Coolermaster HAF 912 Cabinet
Deepcool Ice Edge 400XT Proc Cooler
2x120mm Deepcool front intake ans
1x140mm Deepcool side intake fan
1x200mm Coolermaster top exhaust fan
1x120mm Coolermaster rear exhaust fan
XFX AMD Radeon HD6770 Graphics
One old Creative Audigy sound card
Seagate 500GB and 1TB 6gbps HDDs with 16MB and 32MB cache respectively
Old Samsung 2233 syncmaster lcd full hd monitor
Old Samsung DVD drive

[vasudeva]

Recently IHS iSuppli (a highly reputed and credible source) posted numbers for HDD and SSD shipments for 2013.

1. SSD accounted for 11.4% in 2013, up from 6.2% in 2012.
2. SSD shipments in 2013 went up by 82% to 57 million units. HDD segment fell 7% to 444.4 million. Optical Disk Drive shipments fell 12% to 253.5 million units.

Not reflected in HDD prices which still remain far higher than they were prior to the Thai floods of Oct 2011.

[Arch-Angel]

Has anyone ever faced this issue where their pc seems to kill keyboards and mice connected to it?
My 12V,5V and 3.3V are within the ATX specifications. The smps is from corsair (TX 850 V2).
The voltages are
@12V -> 12.45V
@5V -> 5.21V
@3.3 -> 3.35V
these are readings from the bios. I wonder what could be wrong since i have already lost three gaming keyboards to this system .

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by Arch-Angel

Has anyone ever faced this issue where their pc seems to kill keyboards and mice connected to it?
My 12V,5V and 3.3V are within the ATX specifications. The smps is from corsair (TX 850 V2).
The voltages are
@12V -> 12.45V
@5V -> 5.21V
@3.3 -> 3.35V
these are readings from the bios. I wonder what could be wrong since i have already lost three gaming keyboards to this system .

It appears that your 5 V rail goes up erratically due to some fault condition resulting in the death of USB connected accessories. Ditch the PSU and get another before it does any damage to the MB.

Usually many PSUs have a crowbar circuit protected rails for 12 V and 5 V so any rise in voltage will trip the supply.

[Arch-Angel]

Originally Posted by Prowler

It appears that your 5 V rail goes up erratically due to some fault condition resulting in the death of USB connected accessories. Ditch the PSU and get another before it does any damage to the MB.

Usually many PSUs have a crowbar circuit protected rails for 12 V and 5 V so any rise in voltage will trip the supply.

I really wonder since during full system loads, i have not had problems with another TVS keyboard i connected and this occurs only with gaming keyboards. I am stumped myself since the voltages remain fine and the smps itself seems fine too. So i guess, during the time my motherboard must have had some VRM fault when i had a faulty UPS supplying my PC. so i guess ill just scrap this motherboard since i am rebuilding it anyway. But i guess the PSU will need be checked again.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by Arch-Angel

Has anyone ever faced this issue where their pc seems to kill keyboards and mice connected to it?

Well, I seem to kill mice. The left-click starts becoming a double-click. I was getting through a Logitech optical mouse in six to nine months, so I decided to try something fancy: a Roccat KoneXTD. That's over 4,000 Rupees of Rodent! After just 8 months, the double-click thing is starting to happen.

Even though this did not happen to me in the previous decades of my life, I had not thought that it might be the system at fault.

[Arch-Angel]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Well, I seem to kill mice. The left-click starts becoming a double-click. I was getting through a Logitech optical mouse in six to nine months, so I decided to try something fancy: a Roccat KoneXTD. That's over 4,000 Rupees of Rodent! After just 8 months, the double-click thing is starting to happen.

Even though this did not happen to me in the previous decades of my life, I had not thought that it might be the system at fault.

I wouldn't call that a system issue per se, but its got more to do with the switches used for the mouse buttons. Over a period of time, the contacts get dusty and when you press it, it can result in duplication of the click( the double click issue). Mine die outright, as in, the moment you connect it, its lights out for that mouse. I have a razer naga( a phone as my friend called it, due to its size) and it suffers from the double click issue as well. I need to blow into the crevices along the buttons to even elicit a reaction from the switches for my clicks.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Well, I seem to kill mice. The left-click starts becoming a double-click. I was getting through a Logitech optical mouse in six to nine months, so I decided to try something fancy: a Roccat KoneXTD. That's over 4,000 Rupees of Rodent! After just 8 months, the double-click thing is starting to happen.

Even though this did not happen to me in the previous decades of my life, I had not thought that it might be the system at fault.

Just open the mouse and clean the contacts by blowing on them. If you have canned contact leaner spar a bit. Another thing that happens with my mouse is that the optical sensor becomes dirty and the mouse starts to behave erratically. I just clean the red piece of plastic inside and thats it.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Thanks. I tried surgery on my last few Logitech mice, and it didn't work. It is sealed microswitch. Is there any point in spraying those with contact cleaner? (Not that I have any, but will certainly buy if need be).

I made one working mouse out of two dead ones by swapping out working microswitches ---it is only the most-used left-button switch that dies--- but my electronics soldering is very bad.

[SLK]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Thanks. I tried surgery on my last few Logitech mice, and it didn't work. It is sealed microswitch. Is there any point in spraying those with contact cleaner? (Not that I have any, but will certainly buy if need be).

I made one working mouse out of two dead ones by swapping out working microswitches ---it is only the most-used left-button switch that dies--- but my electronics soldering is very bad.

Yes, WD 40 or Zorik 88 helps provided you can get it in there. Spray and then 10s of hard pressed clicks to make sure it cleans the contacts.

You might also want to wipe/ clean the spilled cleaner liquid otherwise its a dust magnet then.

I've managed to fix a couple of mice like this (logitech and microsoft), though some local ones went bad very soon again.

[audioholic]

Finally got time to hit the shop and get myself a new CPU.

Got AMD FX6300 - 3.5ghz, six core, ASUS M5A78LMUSB3 motherboard which offers quite some amount of kit, Transcend 4GB 1600MHz ram,

Initially wanted a coolermaster case, but found a brand called Circle that had quite a decent build and good quality SMPS inbuilt. Loaded the case with three fans since the CPU sits under a corner table and ventilation is bad. Currently CPU runs at 40 deg C and ocassionally reaches 42 or 43. Is it okay?

Wanted to add more RAM, but the shopkeeper(trusted) advised me to wait as the prices had jacked up currently. Performance wise its good when it comes to running multiple applications. Havent pushed it to higher levels of stress yet.

[Thad E Ginathom]

SLK, thanks for the mouse advice.