[schumi2508]

Hi,
I am looking to buy an used Automatic Sedan in the D Segment with budget (7-8L). Confused between Octavia/Jetta/Altis. I am existing user of Corolla(2005) and Corolla Altis (2013).

Evaluating 3 options (all automatics):
2014 50K Run Altis ~8.5L
2015 96K Run Altis ~7.8L
2014 66K Run Octavia Petrol ~8L

Which is fair price to pay considering vintage and running for these?

[Latheesh]

Back again :-)

Car: VW Vento
Year: 2017
ODO: 20000
Variant: 1.2 TSI HIGHLINE AT
Transmission: DSG
No.of owners: 1
Location: Kerala

Asking price is 8.5L, what is the fair price for the same? We were thinking of making an offer between 7-7.5L
Thanks in advance!

[ChoosetoCruze]

Originally Posted by anoopash

Please share your views.

Do you usually overpay for your vehicles? I feel the street value is not more than 4.5L (for a discontinued German vehicle). But since you’ve already finalised the deal, just enjoy the purchase & pray nothing expensive breaks during your ownership.

Originally Posted by DuHasstMich

What would be the ideal price for a 2010 i20 Magna? The only niggle is the AC is not working at full capacity and needs to be diagnosed.

Peanuts. If you are the owner, fix the AC cooling issue first.

If you are considering buying it, find another example among the millions of i20s out there.

Originally Posted by Garth

What will be the ideal price for a Feb 2012 Skoda Rapid 1.6 TDI, run about 125,000?

You’d be lucky if you got 2L. It depends on the buyer, really. But the street value is extremely low thanks to it being an almost 9 yr old, high mileage, German.

Originally Posted by schumi2508

Evaluating 3 options (all automatics):
2014 50K Run Altis ~8.5L
2015 96K Run Altis ~7.8L
2014 66K Run Octavia Petrol ~8L

None of those cars are an upgrade to your 2013 Corolla, really. And no way in hell an almost 7yr old DSG is worth 8L. If that DSG goes out, the total cost of replacement will EASILY exceed the value of the car. German vehicles are to be enjoyed (?) brand new or a 2-3yr old example (max).

You are going to go from one extreme of ultimate reliability (Toyota), to the other extreme of high maintenance (VW).

The real options for you would be a Camry/Accord. You can expect similar maintenance bills as compared to your Corolla. Start here https://droom.in/product/toyota-camr...f3ace608cf229a & https://www.olx.in/en/item/toyota-ca...iid-1580939584

If it has to be one from your above 3 choices, I’d pick the 2015 Corolla at close to 7L.

Originally Posted by Latheesh

Back again :-)

Let me put it this way, you can get a brand new Rapid AT with a RELIABLE Aisin TC for 2-3L more (if you bargain hard). If you’re going to buy German, buy brand new. If it HAS to be used, do not overpay! Why do YOU want to absorb the depreciation hit of the owner?

For the above example, if it’s out of warranty, nothing more than 6.5L-7L.

[sou_3749]

How much can I expect for the below.

Car: S-Cross
Year: 2015 August
ODO: 46000
Variant: 1.3 DDIS Zeta
No.of owners: 1
Location: Bangalore

[Latheesh]

Originally Posted by ChoosetoCruze

For the above example, if it’s out of warranty, nothing more than 6.5L-7L.

Thanks

Car: Ford Ecosport Diesel
Year: 2017 December
ODO: 17000
Variant: Titanium
Transmission: Manual
No.of owners: 1
Location: Kerala
Condition: Some scratches on the body

Insurance and annual maintenance are due in couple of months. Is 7.2L ok considering these immediate expenses?

[ChoosetoCruze]

Originally Posted by sou_3749

How much can I expect

Somewhere around 6L. If you sell to a dealer, expect way lesser.

Originally Posted by Latheesh

Is 7.2L ok considering these immediate expenses?

Now that’s much better!

If you’re abreast of the Ford situation in India & confident about getting the vehicle serviced, I think that’s a good option considering it’s barely 3 yrs old & hardly broken in..

Still, I’d use the insurance renewal & service costs to knock down the price to 7L (if you can). Also, are those scratches minor? If yes, ignore. If no (deep scratches), use that as another tool to knock off a few more thousands to get them fixed.

[sou_3749]

Originally Posted by ChoosetoCruze

Somewhere around 6L. If you sell to a dealer, expect way lesser.

Thanks for the info. Well in that case Cars24 has offered me a much higher price after waiting for couple of days of rejecting the initial offer. I think I should then go ahead with their offer.

Even the maruti true value guys gave me more than 6lk. And this is in Bangalore.

[ChoosetoCruze]

Originally Posted by sou_3749

Thanks for the info. Well in that case Cars24 has offered me a much higher price after waiting for couple of days of rejecting the initial offer. I think I should then go ahead with their offer.

Even the maruti true value guys gave me more than 6lk. And this is in Bangalore.

I apologise, I should have been clearer - 6L is the minimum which you should expect. And now that I realise you’re in Bangalore (~ +1L), the higher price offered only makes sense.

[Ragavsr]

Originally Posted by sou_3749

Thanks for the info. Well in that case Cars24 has offered me a much higher price after waiting for couple of days of rejecting the initial offer. I think I should then go ahead with their offer.

Even the maruti true value guys gave me more than 6lk. And this is in Bangalore.

Fair price for a S Cross Zeta. I was about to finalize a 2017 zeta for 6.99 here in Chennai before we decided to get a new XUV300.

If you selling to cars24, take their instant payment offer wven if it costs 2k more. Otherwise these people pay a token amount of 1 rupee and take the car and also impose a cancellation penalty of 5000 if you cancel which is daylight robbery.

[sou_3749]

Originally Posted by Ragavsr

Fair price for a S Cross Zeta. I was about to finalize a 2017 zeta for 6.99 here in Chennai before we decided to get a new XUV300.

If you selling to cars24, take their instant payment offer wven if it costs 2k more. Otherwise these people pay a token amount of 1 rupee and take the car and also impose a cancellation penalty of 5000 if you cancel which is daylight robbery.

Keeping in mind mine was a 2015 model, 6.8 is something I wouldn't have got even from individual buyers and of course the hassle of transfer.

I took instant payment at 1k extra charge seems fine. I hope this info will help people on similar boat.

[brainchutney]

Hello TeamBHP, this is my first post / reply. I wasn't sure if I should (am allowed to) create a dedicated post for this. I could if its okay

Need help picking my first (used) petrol car. i10 vs Ritz . Budget 1-2 lacs. Mostly small town driving + hilly areas.

I'm a very new driver. Just learning to drive. My dad has a 2004 Zen Lxi that has done only about 50k km.

Based on extensive online research out here, youtube a few other portals I narrowed it down to these two cars : Hyundai i10 (2010-17) vs Maruti Ritz (2009-2017). The reason I narrowed it down to these two (based on reviews) is that I have back issues and good seating is important for me (heard swift doesn't have great back support ?). Total people in car usually would be 2. Rarely 4-5.

I don't earn a lot (20-30k p.m) and want to spend a max of 2 lacs on a petrol car. Usage would probably be minimal (max 5-6k km per year), hence petrol. I'm looking for a car I can learn / improve on and drive for at least 5 years. Don't care too much about very good pickup or ultra high speed driving.

Comfort, mileage and low service / maintenance costs are a priority.

• Which of these cars is easier to drive ? (Steering, gear shifting, visibility, blind spots, rear visibility, suspensions etc)
  
• Which clutch is easier on the left foot ? From what I read the i10 clutch (and other pedals too) is really light / smooth. If its rated an 8/10 would the ritz be a 5 ? a 6 ? I have a slight issue in my left knee and want the lightest clutch possible (can't afford an AMT and avoiding Alto etc.)
  
• What about the mileage I should expect from these cars. (bumper - bumper traffic, easy city drives, highway driving). Is 15 kmpl unrealistic ?
  
• Service / Maintenance charges + parts availability: Are they comparable for these cars ?
  
• And finally, which year, variant should I be looking at in my budget ? And how many kms should it have run (assuming first owner only).

[doxinboy]

Originally Posted by brainchutney

Hello TeamBHP, this is my first post / reply...Need help picking my first (used) petrol car. i10 vs Ritz . Budget 1-2 lacs. Mostly small town driving + hilly areas.

Hello brainchutney, interesting username indeed. Welcome to the family. Indeed there is a dedicated sub forum for your query. Please check this out


https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/what-car/ There is a better chance you will get help there

Mods: please move this post to the relevant thread.

[brainchutney]

Originally Posted by doxinboy

Hello brainchutney, interesting username indeed. Welcome to the family. Indeed there is a dedicated sub forum for your query. Please check this out


https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/what-car/ There is a better chance you will get help there

Mods: please move this post to the relevant thread.

Thanks for the reply. Will post in the thread you mentioned. Cheers.

[Parambir]

Hello.
I am looking for a 2018 CLA petrol or C Class Diesel (Chandigarh number). What price range should I be expecting?

Thanks

[skarthikeyan]

Originally Posted by ChoosetoCruze

Too bad! But like you said, the search continues.

If you can find another Camry which checks out & is within your budget, why look elsewhere?

I’d stick to Japanese (specifically Toyota & Honda) if I were you. They are the gold standard of reliability & fuss free ownership.

Thanks @ChoosetoCruze. Agreed.

I found another Camry Hybrid, 2nd owner. When I checked the service records, it had front bumper and AC radiator replaced, meaning a frontal collision serious enough. Spoke to the owner and he said he's selling it since his travel business is down due to COVID. Decided not to go ahead since he's also let the car be listed by a park n sell dealer also and they're quoting different prices.

In the meanwhile, I found a 2013 2nd owner Honda Accord in decent condition, listed by Spinny used car dealers for 7.8L. I test drove it for about 60 kms. The Spinny sales person was hesitant but after putting my foot down that I want to know how it rides and handles on highways, he agreed. Obviously, this was the latest Accord I could fine in the last month or two. I couldn't find a 2014 or 2015 Accord when it was last sold with an IC engine.

I observed the following in the test drive:

• Interiors - Corolla < Accord < Camry. Accord's is better than corolla but less opulent than Camry. Particular the seat leather is wrinkled and softer than Camry's firm yet soft enough. Missus said let's replace the seats if we buy this, I think that's another 40-50K if I get decent seats, but I think that's ok. What do others think?

• Steering - Corolla < Camry < Accord. I found the accord's steering more direct in feel and precise. It's a tad smaller than Camry's and Corolla's, but I loved it.

• Pick up - Corolla < [Camry, Accord]. Both Camry and Accord are equivalent. Camry's better at slow speeds due to hybrid/electric kicking in, Accord's is better at running acceleration when vtec kicks in. In 4-5 seconds, you can reach from 50-60kmph to 120kmph since it's a TC gearbox. I. found it fun and addictive. I thought I was at 80-90kmph and when I looked at the speedo, realize I was already past 120 and still gathering speed.

• Size - Corolla < Camry < Accord. Accord is big, but I found this a non-factor in the test drive. I drove through peak traffic within BLR city and in NICE road, but it was still less stressful. Same was the case in the outer ring road highway with medium to low traffic. I think the lower GC and lower dashboard makes Accord feel more planted and visceral feel during the drive. Obviously, it handles like a boat, but Corolla/Camry are like a ship I'd say

• Mileage - Accord < [Corolla/Camry] - but my running will be 5K-6K per year without Corona. With Corona, it's 2-3K max, so if I buy Accord for 7.8L(or whatever amount I can negotiate for), I save 6-7 L compared to a 2015 Camry Hybrid. I'll take 10-20 years to recover this in fuel savings, or probably never. So this is obviously a non-factor for me. Are my assumptions correct?

• Reliability - Accord < [Corolla, Camry]. Accord was built strong, the sheet metal was strong and even stronger than the Corolla in the fenders etc, but I saw some wear n tear on the dashboard and Honda suspension is less robust than Toyota's. Less GC also means it's more prone to scraping.
  
  Can I get the Accord serviced at Honda A.S.S or a FNG and get regular services and spares replacement? I wouldn't want the vehicle at service for more than 2-3 days a year, I'm spoilt by my Corolla's reliability over the last 4-5 years. What do the experts think?