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Originally Posted by Mr Anderson Ill be getting the car in 3-4 days. What do you suggest I do? I have thought of Partial matte ppf on bonnet front bumper and fenders followed by
Complete ceramic coating ( both ppf and non ppf parts). Will there be high visible difference between ppf and non ppf parts of the car. 3m has quoted 27000 for 3 year ceramic and they will tell the charges per sqft tomorrow for ppf.
Thanks in advance. Really looking for your advise. |
Happy to help. Matte PPF on matte paint is less noticeable than gloss on gloss as reflections are blurry to begin with in a matte finish. But, pay close attention to ensure both your paint and the PPF have similar levels of matte texture. Matte finish varies slightly by mfg and film, some films may be more toward a satin like finish and others may be more dull.
Best way to test this is to place a small piece of film directly over your paint under bright lights, now check the two finishes and observe the overhead light reflections and look for any change in gloss levels.
It will never be a perfect match and upon close inspection you will notice where the film ends and your paint starts. As long as you are okay with this, all good. Try and minimise the amount of disassembly the shop will perform, bumpers in particular are best left attached as once removed you may get gaps and alignment may not be as good as factory fit.
Would suggest looking at better brands than 3M, have you considered Expel, Stek, Llumar?
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Originally Posted by santosh.s Recently, I have been exploring paint protection options for my new car and came across a wealth of knowledge on this topic shared in this thread, especially by you! I have ruled out PPF as I understand that it has many more disadvantages as compared to utility, even keeping aside very high cost. |
Thank you. I don’t even count cost as a disadvantage, as long as there’s a benefit. Personally I wouldn’t put PPF on my own cars even if I got it for free as you’re covering up a cars beautiful paintwork with textured plastic that yellows over time. To add, it even reduces the visible flake in metallic paint (little sparkles that one can observe in metallic paints).
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Originally Posted by santosh.s The best I can do is provide the car cleaner microfiber cloths, buckets with grit guards and instruct him to always use two bucket method with clean clothes. But again, there is now way I will really be able to ensure that he does that diligently. In this context, apart from loosing mirror finish due to micro swirls, will a good ceramic coating provide all other benefits in long run like water fobicity, dust repellence, protection or resistance against damages due to chemicals/sunlight/minor scratches (due to increased harness), maintain shine/luster (as opposed to mirror finish) for extended period? My definition of "long run" is 5+ years or at least 3+ years in the worst case.
BTW, another person has suggested a cheaper option of using a DIY ceramic spray from a reputed brand like Turtle Wax or Meguiar's instead of professional coating. The car in question is pearl white Hycross. Please share your opinion on this as well, as an alternative. I am open to spending time and effort for a day or two for this job. |
Do not give anything to the cleaner, remove him altogether as no matter what you do he will never follow any of the special instructions as he has too many cars to micro scratch in the morning. This I’m saying from experience, with my own cars and the ones I’ve coated over the years.
You have a few options for contactless rinsing if doing it yourself is not possible:
1) Get your own driver/domestic help to do it with a pressure washer/garden hose + leaf blower. This method is quite idiot proof and does not need any special know how, just ensure they keep at least 12 inches between the pressure washer nozzle and the paint (goes up to 18 inches when using a more powerful machine.)
2) Find the nearest carwash, ensure they have an air compressor/air blower prior to starting. Tell them to spray water thoroughly and then spray air to dry, assuming your car is coated this is enough to remove dust and light contamination. Ensure their pressure washer is making no more than 150 bar/2000 psi, anything above this can damage your paint, every machine has a pressure gauge you can check.
Do not let them use shampoos, or touch the paint as some places use very alkaline shampoos that are unnecessarily hard on the coating and your paint. Even if shampoo is pH neutral they won’t follow the multi mitt method and will wipe the entire car down with a single mitt again causing swirls. So contact wash is best avoided. Ensure they dry thoroughly as hard water will leave spots if not evacuated completely.
Since they’re not using distilled water, for them tap water is free and air is free as well. Labour charges are the only variable cost so you can have this done more than once a week without paying much.
3) Have it done professionally by a detailer/your installer. If going to a new place, ensure they’re doing the contact wash step correctly with multiple mitts and one side per panel with zero hand pressure. Check for staff wearing any sharp jewellery that can scratch like watches, rings, etc. Ask them about their water supply and if water softeners/filters are used.
If you drive a lot/park in the open the first and second options make more sense. If you use the car occasionally and have covered parking or live in a less dusty environment, third one done once a week can also work.
On applying yourself, there are much better brands available than those two. Try Gyeon Cancoat for 6 months+ of good water beading. The differences between this and a pro coating is in the film thickness and durability, a good quality coating won’t require reapplication for many years unlike a diy spray type coating which needs to be reapplied every 6-8 months at best.
Also, a good detailer will make every surface near perfect with machine polishing prior to applying a coating, at home you can follow the same wash + decon + clay steps but machine polishing for improved optical clarity and removing fine swirls that every new car comes with is harder to do yourself unless you’re comfortable with a polisher. Keep in mind all the gloss we perceive any surface to have is largely a result of good polishing to remove any defects, the coating is the cherry on top which adds ~5-10% to it at best.
A coating will retain its hardness and UV/chemical protection even if washed improperly and swirled up. It will however lose its gloss, water repellency and self cleaning ability if scratched up, making the paint look dull and lifeless.
Gloss will not be retained for even 3 weeks, let alone 3-5 years when given to a daily cleaner. Most folks highly underestimate just how abrasive his methods are. It is subjective, to my eyes even after 1 poorly done wash, soft paint will start to show fine swirls. If you’re not looking under bright lights you may take a month to start to notice the loss in gloss but objectively, damage is done within 1 badly done wash.
To illustrate, take any 6-7 year old car that is washed by the daily cleaner and pay attention to the paint edges around the windshield area (A pillar edges). On many of them you’ll see grey lines right on the edge, here the paint has worn off completely and grey primer is visible.
To get to the primer, one has to go through the entire clearcoat (~50-60 microns) + base coat (~20-25 microns). In other words a total of 70-80 microns need to be removed in order to see this, in terms of wetsanding, this is the equivalent of using 1000 grit sandpaper repeatedly. For reference in detailing, anything below 2000 grit is considered very aggressive and 1500 grit is the last resort for very deep scratches.
Following pictures show this-