[shashank.nk]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

I have one doubt: The next time your in the car, at idle with instrumentation console lit up (only parking lamps switched ON will do), switch ON the fog lamps, what is the drop in RPM and how much time does the RPM take to stabilize back?

Tried this. There is a hardly any noticeable drop in the RPMs. Just a small dip and the RPM needle comes right back up.

Originally Posted by silversteed

Halonix is a good brand. Your LHS bulb is still fine, so there're no quality issues with the bulb. Please get your wiring checked, including the battery terminals. Spikes can be caused by loose connections at the terminals and the holder.

Leaving the fog-lamp switch on is not a problem, because I used to do the same until I installed HIDs 3 months ago.

Yes its not the bulb,there's something else wrong here. Thanks for clarifying on the fog light switch part.

I got the wiring checked at MASS. Battery was checked at a nearby battery store where i've been going for a long time. All levels were fine, distilled water,voltage on start-up, with all lights on,all lights plus horn. It was at~14v after start-up.
By terminals do you mean the one's at the battery end ?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by shashank.nk

Tried this. There is a hardly any noticeable drop in the RPMs. Just a small dip and the RPM needle comes right back up.

It was at~14v after start-up.

By terminals do you mean the one's at the battery end ?

Then I guess the wiring issue is solved since you did checked at MASS. Now try looking for the bulb holder.

On ignition I get a voltage - 12.1V
On cranking - 11.1V
On idle rpm I get (@808rpm) - 14.2V

Terminals are the two steel round things on which the wires are connected.

Anurag.

[shashank.nk]

By terminals do you mean the one's at the battery end ?

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Terminals are the two steel round things on which the wires are connected.

Thanks for clarifying that. I was confused with wires. I don't think he checked for loose connections around the terminal. Will have to get it checked tomorrow.

Then I guess the wiring issue is solved since you did checked at MASS. Now try looking for the bulb holder.

On ignition I get a voltage - 12.1V
On cranking - 11.1V
On idle rpm I get (@808rpm) - 14.2V

I think my car is alos pretty much the same. Not too sure if the voltage drops to 11v on crank though.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by shashank.nk

I think my car is also pretty much the same. Not too sure if the voltage drops to 11v on crank though.

Ideally the voltage should drop as the starter motor draws lot of it. That drop in voltage also gives the status (health) of the battery. Any drop near 7-8V should give you an idea that it is going weak. Cranking time also is a give-way.

Anurag.

[racer_ash]

Originally Posted by racer_ash

Not sure whether this has been asked already. But is there any way I can install LED cabin lights in my i20. Mine is a 2011 Sportz model which has got only the centre cabin light unlike newer i20s which have centre cabin lights as well as front map lights. The centre ones are woefully inadequate and I feel that installing LEDs should brighten up things a bit. I am specifically looking for bulb nomenclature and some pointers to get them (either in Hyderabad or online).

Originally Posted by silversteed

If they are the Festoon bulbs, then you can buy an LED array with the same holder. I remember buying one pair off eBay for 200 rupees or so.

Original bulbs:
Attachment 1226142

LED array that I bought (and installed in our Ritz and M800):
Attachment 1226143

Go to any place in your city where they sell such lights and accessories, show them the bulb that's inside the cabin light, and ask for LED replacement.

As advised, I bought one Festton type bulb from ebay for 135/-. I had measured the festoon bulb length as 29mm but somehow while ordering I placed an order for 39mm 16 array LED bulb. I realised the mistake only when the bulb arrived and I went down to the parking lot to fix it.

But anyway, why call ourselves Indian if we cannot manage a small bit of Jugaad. The procedure to change the cabin light is very simple. The i20s center cabin light cover has two small slits at one end into which a small tester sized screwdriver head easily fits. You just need to pry both open togerther and it comes out. The festoon bulb removal too is easy and we just need to be careful not to dislocate the semi circular metallic terminals (they are actually pretty strong) which are at two ends of the festoon bulbs

Since the bulb ordered was 10 mm more than the space between the terminals, I ran a wire around the festoon bulb and connected it to the terminal and covered the exposed wire ends with insulation tape. I also added a cellophane tape through the center of the LED array and helped secure it to the roof of the cabin light. The bulb works perfectly and the cabin feels much brighter now. The only disdvantage of such a setup is that there is no theatre dimming effect as the LEDs power consumption is very low. I also did not face problem with the LEDs glowing when using the horn as reported by others in this forum.

It is my first hand at a DIY and thanks to this forum, I am tempted to do some more stuff. I am now eyening the license plate lights at the rear and the hatch light which I want to change to LEDs too. It would be followed by a DIY headlamp change to Philips XV 55/60W and a fixing an LED strip to the front bumper. Also planning to add some carbon fibre vinyls to blacken the B-pillar and also apply some to the front bonnet bordering the headlights. Looks like the DIY bug has caught me.

[silversteed]

Originally Posted by racer_ash

It is my first hand at a DIY and thanks to this forum, I am tempted to do some more stuff. I am now eyening the license plate lights at the rear and the hatch light which I want to change to LEDs too. It would be followed by a DIY headlamp change to Philips XV 55/60W and a fixing an LED strip to the front bumper. Also planning to add some carbon fibre vinyls to blacken the B-pillar and also apply some to the front bonnet bordering the headlights. Looks like the DIY bug has caught me.

Ah! Madness begins

Almost a decade ago, I laid my hands on the M800. Then, it was aux lamps, reversing horn, HU etc. Fortunately, the 800's dash had enough slots to fix switches, and those switches were flush-fitted. Now, though I want to take out those Hella MicroDEs from the 800 and fit them in my new car, I hate to leave the switches there and I can't leave the holes open - the 800 remains to have better lights ;-)

Anyway, good luck with your endeavour. Hope you do everything in good taste

[cgbalaji]

Hi BHPians,

For the past few weeks I am facing problems with my ride's headlights. I own a Hyundai i20 and the low beam refused to turn off even after switching off the engine and removing the key. But on continuously switching on and turning off the combination switch, the light was switched off. Then one of the wire in the ceramic bulb holder burnt and I replaced the holder with a new Roots Ceramic Bulb Holder (Rs.60). Later I found out under the hood that the Roots dual headlamp relay (100/130) was dangling. This was after I left my vehicle for a routine checkup at HASS (V3 Hyundai, Chennai), they forgot to mount it. Even I cant mount it now, as the length of the wire is very short to reach any of the walls. Also I found out that the wire running into the fuse holder was black and the fuse was burnt. So I replaced the fuse and things were fine until the fuse burnt again. Actually there was only the metal part and no plastic. Think it got evaporated. I finally concluded that the fuse holder is the culprit (Expert's suggestion required, Please). Due to this issue, I am not at all taking my car for a night drive.

Now I am planning to change the whole wiring harness. Think I can do it by myself but I have a doubt. I am attaching a picture of the wiring harness I got from googling. As for my knowledge,I have labelled it the parts (Correct me if I am wrong). Now where will the one labelled "???????" go? ? Will it go to the combination switch inside the cabin? Do I need to remove the Steering Column to fit it? Can anyone guide me through the steps involved in changing the wiring harness. I extensively searched the forum but can't find any posts related to this issue. Can someone throw light on how to change the wiring harness? In my case, whether it is necessary to change the whole kit or is it enough to change only the fuse holder? I am in a dilemma.

Also suggest me whether to buy Roots or Hella.

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by cgbalaji

Hi BHPians,


Now I am planning to change the whole wiring harness. Think I can do it by myself but I have a doubt. I am attaching a picture of the wiring harness I got from googling. As for my knowledge,I have labelled it the parts (Correct me if I am wrong). Now where will the one labelled "???????" go? ? Will it go to the combination switch inside the cabin? Do I need to remove the Steering Column to fit it? Can anyone guide me through the steps involved in changing the wiring harness. I extensively searched the forum but can't find any posts related to this issue. Can someone throw light on how to change the wiring harness? In my case, whether it is necessary to change the whole kit or is it enough to change only the fuse holder? I am in a dilemma.

Also suggest me whether to buy Roots or Hella.

If you have the problem of the light not turning off after turning off the stalk, the problem will be with the relay. I think if you change the relay its sufficient. However if you wish to change the harness, the connector marked as ???? Is the holder for the bulb of the other side. The holder to the left from which the ground wire is coming is the holder for one side bulb. The one without ground wire is the connector whoch goes into the existing holders.

[cgbalaji]

Thanks audioholic.

I think if you change the relay its sufficient.

I too first thought of changing only the relays. But I decided to change the whole harness when I found the burnt fuse and the the wire (orange colour) running into the fuse holder is black.

The one without ground wire is the connector whoch goes into the existing holders.

Here is my biggest doubt. Where is the existing holder? Will it be near the combination switch? Considering the length of the wire (in the picture), I think it is not possible to take it all the way through the firewall to the switch. If anyone can show me where exactly the "holder" is, it will be really useful. And suggest me a good brand of wiring harness set which I can get in Chennai.

[JustCause]

Originally Posted by cgbalaji

Here is my biggest doubt. Where is the existing holder?

The existing bulb holder is the one Hyundai supplied with the standard wiring harness with your car. The plug will go into the Hyundai bulb holder and will be used to switch beams. The original holder will be somewhere in the engine bay behind the lamps. You might not be able to see the bulb holder if it is protected by some backing cover (check if it is the case in your car). You need to remove the cover from the back of the headlamp assy to access the bulb holder.

The ROOTS wiring harness plug will be seen plugged into the Hyundai headlamp wiring harness.

I find Philips wiring harness to be better in terms of support offered. It has a standard one-year warranty and protects against malfunction provided the kit wires are not burnt. Do check thoroughly in the market as there are a lot of fakes around.

[silversteed]

Originally Posted by cgbalaji

Here is my biggest doubt. Where is the existing holder? Will it be near the combination switch? Considering the length of the wire (in the picture), I think it is not possible to take it all the way through the firewall to the switch. If anyone can show me where exactly the "holder" is, it will be really useful. And suggest me a good brand of wiring harness set which I can get in Chennai.

Check the pic below:



The existing holder can be either of your headlamps' stock holder. There will be a rubber boot behind the headlamp, covering the bulb holder. Gently pull it out, and then you can see the holder with the bulb. Take it out, remove the bulb, connect it to the socket that's marked in the picture above.

[cgbalaji]

The existing bulb holder is the one Hyundai supplied with the standard wiring harness with your car.

Yes, apart from the after market Roots Ceramic bulb holder, my car has a factory fitted plastic bulb holder from Hyundai which is sitting dummy inside the headlamp assy.

The plug will go into the Hyundai bulb holder and will be used to switch beams.

So I may find a socket behind the headlight assy or somewhere near the firewall where I can connect the wiring harness? I will peek into the engine bay and check it out.

The ROOTS wiring harness plug will be seen plugged into the Hyundai headlamp wiring harness.

That is a good idea. I will see. But as for as I remember, I was told by the technician who installed Roots wiring harness some 2 years back, that the whole Hyundai headlamp wiring harness was made dummy. Because Hyundai's will support only 55/65 W bulbs. @JustCause I will check once again.

[cgbalaji]

The existing holder can be either of your headlamps' stock holder

So, are we taking control of the headlight through the factory fitted wires? I thought that the wire from the relay harness kit will go through the firewall and up to the combination switch as we are using a high wattage bulbs.

So the existing relay wiring harness can be replaced just by unplugging the existing relay harness connection from the "existing holder" and plugging in the new one? I have already replaced the bulbs many times through the rubber boot behind the headlight. Haven't noticed the factory fitted holder. Thought it was just sitting there as a dummy.

It will be possible for me to check tomorrow only. I will let you know guys. Anyway, I have planned to buy a new Dual Headlamp Wiring Harness (100/130) this evening. As suggested, I will enquire about Philips kit. If it is not available, I will go with ROOTS so that I will try to replace only the relay and check if solves the problem. Else, I will replace with the whole kit.

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by cgbalaji

Yes, apart from the after market Roots Ceramic bulb holder, my car has a factory fitted plastic bulb holder from Hyundai which is sitting dummy inside the headlamp assy.

So I may find a socket behind the headlight assy or somewhere near the firewall where I can connect the wiring harness? I will peek into the engine bay and check it out.

That is a good idea. I will see. But as for as I remember, I was told by the technician who installed Roots wiring harness some 2 years back, that the whole Hyundai headlamp wiring harness was made dummy. Because Hyundai's will support only 55/65 W bulbs. @JustCause I will check once again.

If i20's headlight assy is anything like the i10's then plugging in this harness isn't just plug and play. I believe that i20 just like the i10 might be having a single connection to the headlamp assy for the headlight, parklight and the indicator, the headlight's bulb socket will not be seen outside the headlamp assy and will be behind a headlamp bulb cover. This makes plugging in an aftermarket harness a bit complicated.

Check out the post below for more details:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifi...ml#post1941354

[cgbalaji]

Sankar sir, your post regarding your i10 was very helpful for me to understand the situation. In i20, there is no single connection for the headlight, indicator n pilot bulbs. I am not sure though. But currently the relay is installed like the way you described in your post. That is, making a hole in the rubber cover to take the ceramic holder in. The h4 bulb fits in the connector and is held intact using a spring mechanism. I have removed the rubber cover many times to take out any fused bulb and replace it. If the bulb or fuse is blown, I can just replace it. But now the fuse holder itself is not in a good condition. Thats why I planned to change the whole relay kit. Any more suggestions sir. I am now starting out to purchase a new relay/wiring harness kit.