[Thilak29]

How particular one should be with age (since packing) of oil before purchase?
I am looking for Mobil 3000 X and options available before me are as old as 13 months. Can I go ahead with purchase?

[hserus]

Originally Posted by Thilak29

How particular one should be with age (since packing) of oil before purchase?
I am looking for Mobil 3000 X and options available before me are as old as 13 months. Can I go ahead with purchase?

A sealed and properly stored can has a shelf life of about five years. After opening you can use whatever oil is left over about a year after.

[Swapnil4585]

I had given my petrol Corolla for oil (engine, transmission and brake) changes today. They put one Mobil Super XHP 10 w 40 (API SL) grade oil and some 2-300 ml of Rimula 20 w 40 oil. The Corolla drinks 3.8 litres of oil, so it was the Mobil 3.5 litre can plus 300 ml Rimula. My query is, whether this Mobil Super XHP is a fully synthetic oil or a mineral or a semi synthetic? My car used to run on a fully synthetic oil, should I replace this? Was not present while the car was being serviced.

[hserus]

Originally Posted by Swapnil4585

I had given my petrol Corolla for oil (engine, transmission and brake) changes today. They put one Mobil Super XHP 10 w 40 (API SL) grade oil and some 2-300 ml of Rimula 20 w 40 oil. The Corolla drinks 3.8 litres of oil, so it was the Mobil 3.5 litre can plus 300 ml Rimula. My query is, whether this Mobil Super XHP is a fully synthetic oil or a mineral or a semi synthetic? My car used to run on a fully synthetic oil, should I replace this? Was not present while the car was being serviced.

One cheap mineral petrol / diesel multipurpose oil topped up with a cheap but good diesel engine oil. Whatever do you want to do this to your car for?

Get a good 5w30 synthetic and use that. Shell, Mobil, Amsoil etc. Drain that rubbish out at your earliest convenience, and yell at your mechanic for doing this.

[Swapnil4585]

Originally Posted by hserus

One cheap mineral petrol / diesel multipurpose oil topped up with a cheap but good diesel engine oil. Whatever do you want to do this to your car for?

Get a good 5w30 synthetic and use that. Shell, Mobil, Amsoil etc. Drain that rubbish out at your earliest convenience, and yell at your mechanic for doing this.

Cheap

Okay. So then I will add an oil additive, drive for 1-2 days and get it changed on the weekend. Now coming onto synthetic, I have been using Shell earlier. Any other brand that you would suggest to make the engine more silent and smooth?

[Rshrey22]

Originally Posted by Swapnil4585

Cheap

Okay. So then I will add an oil additive, drive for 1-2 days and get it changed on the weekend. Now coming onto synthetic, I have been using Shell earlier. Any other brand that you would suggest to make the engine more silent and smooth?

I say never mind the oil the mechanic put in your car. The old Corolla 1.8s are bullet proof and can easily tolerate this. Plus thicker 40 grade oil offers better protection. Only drawback is that 10w grade offers less protection at startup in colder climates (depends on where you live).

Just be sure to change it after 5-6k kms as it is a mineral oil.

Why waste money?

[hserus]

Originally Posted by Rshrey22

I say never mind the oil the mechanic put in your car. The old Corolla 1.8s are bullet proof and can easily tolerate this. Plus thicker 40 grade oil offers better protection. Only drawback is that 10w grade offers less protection at startup in colder climates (depends on where you live).

Just be sure to change it after 5-6k kms as it is a mineral oil.

Why waste money?

Not sure if he has that or an Altis, which is rather more finicky with such oils.

Better safe than sorry, and the old 1.8 runs just fine and even better on even a semi synthetic or grade 3 synthetic.

[Swapnil4585]

Originally Posted by Rshrey22

I say never mind the oil the mechanic put in your car. The old Corolla 1.8s are bullet proof and can easily tolerate this. Plus thicker 40 grade oil offers better protection. Only drawback is that 10w grade offers less protection at startup in colder climates (depends on where you live).

Just be sure to change it after 5-6k kms as it is a mineral oil.

Why waste money?

The problem is that my car (an Altis by the way) used to run on fully synthetics prior. My regular FNG was overworked, so I gave the car to another workshop, where they use this Mobile Super on all petrol cars. I had to hurry this service because we're going on 3000 km long road trip starting from Monday. And as per my rule, I let the service bed in adequately before embarking on a long road trip.

The morning temperatures here are around 6-7 degree. So this Mobil won't help the cause either. So its better to change it. Question is, which?

[Rshrey22]

Originally Posted by Swapnil4585

The problem is that my car (an Altis by the way) used to run on fully synthetics prior. My regular FNG was overworked, so I gave the car to another workshop, where they use this Mobile Super on all petrol cars. I had to hurry this service because we're going on 3000 km long road trip starting from Monday. And as per my rule, I let the service bed in adequately before embarking on a long road trip.

The morning temperatures here are around 6-7 degree. So this Mobil won't help the cause either. So its better to change it. Question is, which?

Wanna save some bucks, go with Shell Hx8 5w30, but if you wish to go in all the way then, buy Mobil 1 5W30 newer vehicle formula.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Swapnil4585

The morning temperatures here are around 6-7 degree. So this Mobil won't help the cause either. So its better to change it. Question is, which?

The following are recommended grades of oil for the 1ZZ-FE engine:

20W-50
15W-40

10W-30
5W-30 <--- this is now the default mineral oil viscosity filled at the service station for all Toyota vehicles

Synthetic - 5W-30 or 5W-40. The latter is the spec for Toyota's synthetic, Shell Helix Ultra, Motul 8100 Xcess among various other brands of oil

API SL/SM/SN in ALL cases.

I would recommend you familiarise yourself with the owners manual before a long trip. Also, make sure you use a good quality filter either Toyota/Denso or WIX. Purolator/Mahle will do in a pinch.

PS - I was on Shell Helix Ultra for many years, tried Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP and will now move to Amsoil Signature 5W-30 when the car goes for its service next week.

[Swapnil4585]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Synthetic - 5W-30 or 5W-40. The latter is the spec for Toyota's synthetic, Shell Helix Ultra, Motul 8100 Xcess among various other brands of oil

API SL/SM/SN in ALL cases.

I would recommend you familiarise yourself with the owners manual before a long trip. Also, make sure you use a good quality filter either Toyota/Denso or WIX. Purolator/Mahle will do in a pinch.

I have been using Shell Helix HX8 5-40 previously, regularly. Yesterday was different because I could not get the car serviced at my regular FNG. The new garage that I got her serviced use that Mobil xhp blatantly on all petrol cars that they service. Oil filter is however Denso make.

Now that I am going to change the oil again, do you suggest to put in an oil additive like Bardahl, etc, prior to changing oil, to remove sludge? And any particular reason for shifting from Mobil 1 to Amsoil?

[hserus]

Dont waste money on Bardahl / other additives and flushes. Run the engine for a thousand or two thousand km on this oil and then change back to your usual Shell. Or drain it asap and refill as you prefer.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Swapnil4585

I have been using Shell Helix HX8 5-40 previously, regularly. Yesterday was different because I could not get the car serviced at my regular FNG. The new garage that I got her serviced use that Mobil xhp blatantly on all petrol cars that they service. Oil filter is however Denso make. Now that I am going to change the oil again, do you suggest to put in an oil additive like Bardahl, etc, prior to changing oil, to remove sludge? And any particular reason for shifting from Mobil 1 to Amsoil?

Do not use an engine flush with a high mileage engine. Run this mineral oil for your outstation trip and on your return drain and refill with HX8 if you wish. But I'd prefer Shell's top of the line Helix Ultra.

Note the 1ZZ-FE engine is prone to developing sludge so either you use a good/top quality synthetic for 10K kms or a mineral for about 5-6K kms before changing the oil.

Was happy with SHU but tried Mobil 1 ESP this year, it's good. I am trying Amsoil Signature because of the positive reports online.

[hserus]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Was happy with SHU but tried Mobil 1 ESP this year, it's good. I am trying Amsoil Signature because of the positive reports online.

The ESP variant in Mobil (and the same with Amsoil's European Car Formula oils) is low viscosity HTHS and has low to mid saps (sulphated ash, phosphorus and Sulphur) numbers.

Use this only if your vehicle has a DPF, three way catalyst etc, which most Indian cars currently don't - not even some that ship with one in Europe. ACEA C2/C3 spec.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by hserus

The ESP variant in Mobil (and the same with Amsoil's European Car Formula oils) is low viscosity HTHS and has low to mid saps (sulphated ash, phosphorus and Sulphur) numbers. Use this only if your vehicle has a DPF, three way catalyst etc, which most Indian cars currently don't - not even some that ship with one in Europe. ACEA C2/C3 spec.

My car's engine was introduced in 2003 & doesn't need ESP (Exhaust System Protection) formulation oil.

Only API SL (or better) and ILSAC grades are mentioned in the manual. They also recommend using "energy conserving" oils i.e. 5W/10W-30. Euro car specs thankfully don't apply here.

I tried M1-ESP only because it was a premium grade 5W-30 rumoured, I stress on the word rumoured, to be better than the standard M1 5W-30. But personally speaking I don't think using either would make a difference to my car's engine or other comparative commuter car petrol motor from that generation.