[mudhasir]

Originally Posted by Jebs

Hi Mudhasir,

Yes, I think I did have this issue. Petrol bunk guy asked me to open it again though i've did it already. Let me try this today once and get back to you. It's common issue may be? But I used to open/close monthly once as I do full tank always.

Originally Posted by iamswift

Its there in i20-Active as well. Only I thought that one has to pull the fuel lid (probably the bunk guy) while the opener is being pulled up (by you).
The manual however gives the impression that you just pull up the opener and the fuel lid pops open.

I refill 100% every time too. I too initially thought I didn't pull it probably but later I started paying more attention and noticed that it doesn't pop out sometimes. I kept a view of my fuel tank in rear view mirror and pulled it once to see nothing, did it again to see nothing again and then it popped out 3rd time finally. This scares me now. I don't want to end up almost empty tank and unable to refill because the lid doesn't pop out

[Jebs]

Hi Mudhasir,

I've tried this today and it opened on the first attempt itself all 3-4 times. May be I have paid attention on this while opening. However, this issue can't be simulated now.

[Chetan_Rao]

About the fuel lid thingy, is the release mechanism in the i20 cable-type or electric?

If cable-type, it's probably the spring-loaded plastic clamp that holds the lid in place when locked that's the culprit. On my erstwhile Accent, it was a pretty flimsy piece of plastic and came loose often, blocking the unlocked lid from popping out completely. I finally got fed up of changing it, stuck it in place with Araldite and never had the problem again.

Worth a look.

[mudhasir]

Originally Posted by Chetan_Rao

About the fuel lid thingy, is the release mechanism in the i20 cable-type or electric?

If cable-type, it's probably the spring-loaded plastic clamp that holds the lid in place when locked that's the culprit. On my erstwhile Accent, it was a pretty flimsy piece of plastic and came loose often, blocking the unlocked lid from popping out completely. I finally got fed up of changing it, stuck it in place with Araldite and never had the problem again.

Worth a look.

I don't know how to find that. I am planning to have it checked by a SA whenever I can.

[Maverick1977]

Guys, quick help. Am going on 400 km drive tomorrow. What checking the car I noticed that the stud of on one of the nuts is broken. I have also attached the pic to show what has gone wrong.
My question is, is it safe to do 400 km with the broken stud? Also if I have to get this done at the service centre how much time will it take.

Do share your part experience on this issue.

[HalfOctave]

Originally Posted by Maverick1977

Guys, quick help. Am going on 400 km drive tomorrow. What checking the car I noticed that the stud of on one of the nuts is broken. I have also attached the pic to show what has gone wrong.
My question is, is it safe to do 400 km with the broken stud? Also if I have to get this done at the service centre how much time will it take.

Do share your part experience on this issue.

Had a similar problem last week on my Fluidic Verna. The job will take around 30 minutes to maximum of 1 hour. Changing one set costed me Rs. 312 to be precise.

The service center guy had to chirp off a small portion of cover which safeguards brakes from dirt and pebbles in order to take out the broken nut.

Edit: P.S.- I'll not advice going on 400kms drive with one nut broken. Three nuts do the job fine but why to take risk with most important part of vehicle.

[Chetan_Rao]

Originally Posted by Maverick1977

Guys, quick help......

Had to get this done on an Accent's FR wheel (all FOUR studs) due to rusted/stuck aftermarket lug nuts. Won't take more than an hour tops. Please ensure the new studs are the correct part for your specific model and are fixed properly on the hub. Bad/loosely fitted studs will lead to badly mounted wheel and subsequently cause a wobble.

Most importantly, ensure that the mechanic removes the broken nut using the prescribed procedure. Some try to cut corners by taking a hammer and chisel to the nut from the wheel front, could easily damage the alloy.

[vishnurajanme]

Whats the 3rd service charge for the elite? Service center is charging me 5750 including wheel alignment, rotation etc

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by vishnurajanme

Whats the 3rd service charge for the elite? Service center is charging me 5750 including wheel alignment, rotation etc

Please try & avoid the wheel alignment & rotation. They charge a bomb while you can get it done for cheap at the experts'.

[Rahul_]

Originally Posted by kl7m91

Hi ,

What is the mileage that you generally get for an elite i20 diesel
a. within city
b. long drives

Thanks!

These are the usual mileage figures I get on mine [Asta CRDi, 27k done]
My driving is with AC on at 100% times.

a. within city - 14-16 km/L
b. long drives - 17-20 km/L

Also noted that after I changed my driving style from maintaining the revs at 1.2-1.5k rpm to 1.8-2k rpm, my fuel economy numbers have gone up. It felt a little harsh initially because you start to hear the engine sound (not intrusive, but makes you realise that there is a diesel engine under bonnet)

The best figures I ever got was from a recent drive to Hyderabad which was 22.9 km/L.

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

Please try & avoid the wheel alignment & rotation. They charge a bomb while you can get it done for cheap at the experts'.

As far as I remember, there is one issue with getting wheel alignment done outside - someone had earlier mentioned in the thread that the newer i20 needs some kind of reset via software or ECU for EPS after the alignment is completed the usual way. Not sure on this, but if others can confirm it would be really helpful to all.

[madhav14]

Originally Posted by vinjosep

I too have had a few instances where suddenly the car does feel dead while shifting to a higher gear even though the engine is clearly in the turbo zone.

Getting the 30K service done in the next few days, time permitting. Let me see if it brings about any change.

Hi, any update on this particular issue that we are facing?

After my post, I have gone to 10k servicing and even completed 20k servicing too. But those people couldn't find a proper solution for this.

Still I face this problem sometimes, and believe me it is very irritating.

Also, the car always worked very fine whenever I'm taking it to the service center so they could not see the issue 1st hand.:banghead:

[vishnurajanme]

Please be noted that by turbo zone always do not refer to the factory specification. Give some tolerence. Just count anything above 2000 rpm as the turbo zone. Afterall the elite does not have a VGT.

[Maverick1977]

Hi Chetan, Octave:
Thanks for the suggestions gents. I was toying with the idea (till Saturday morning) if I should take the car to the FNG or to the service center. Finally after speaking to both realized that the FNG had more idea what to do than the service centre guy (talk about surprises!).
Finally decided to go to the FNG (now this guy has been working on my cars for about 20 years and knows the tricks of the trade pretty well). He even got the stud whilst coming to the garage. He took just 30 mins to remove the broken stud (opened the hub, removed the broken part) & fit the new one.
I also got the front brakes cleaned as the left one was getting jammed all of last rainy season and I was worried about history (trouble) repeating itself this time also. All done in 1.5 hours time.
Got the car home and left for my trip. I must say that the brakes felt as if the car had just rolled off the manufacturing line. The bite was awesome and I did some pretty good speeds without breaking into a sweat!
I also realized that there is a limit to which torque needs to be applied to studs and a bit more can make things go really wrong.

One word of caution I got from my FNG - Not advisable to drive with 3 nuts however slowly one goes as it will put pressure on the stud opposite to the one that has broken. He was happy that I was going to reach a bit late to my destination but I was going to be safe for sure!

Lesson learnt - Safety first, everything else comes later!

[phoenixash]

Originally Posted by hakunabatata

With a lot of highway trips coming up in the vacations, changing the headlamps was inevitable considering the weak output of the stock headlamps.



Here's a step by step guide to changing the bulbs on your Elite I20.



Hope this helps

Thanks hakunabatata for the excellent step-by-step guide on changing the headlight bulbs. I've just installed Philips Extreme Vision Plus bulbs myself this evening.

I'm yet to try them out on the open road, but I did notice the change in colour from yellow to slightly whitish-yellow. Hopefully these bulbs will still be effective in the Bombay monsoon. Will report back soon!

[hakunabatata]

Originally Posted by phoenixash

Thanks hakunabatata for the excellent step-by-step guide on changing the headlight bulbs. I've just installed Philips Extreme Vision Plus bulbs myself this evening.

I'm yet to try them out on the open road, but I did notice the change in colour from yellow to slightly whitish-yellow. Hopefully these bulbs will still be effective in the Bombay monsoon. Will report back soon!

Thanks for your appreciation, I'm glad my guide was helpful

And yes, the light color is slightly more whitish now, but still yellow. I've found it to be a substantial upgrade over the stock bulbs. Night rides are definitely more confidence inspiring with the upgrade.

Couldn't really test them out in the rains due to relocation. I'm waiting to take it out for a spin in mumbai monsoons too