[saketheerdha]

Originally Posted by harsh79

The stock projectors are for halogens, which will also lead to glare, hot spots, dark spots if used with HID's.

With the current headlight and with the one in the Asta O, for both scenarios, you need to get the lights opened and install HID specific projectors like Mini H1, D2S, FXR.

I got the Mini H1 6.0 installed in the Active's headlights, similar to the Asta O. For more, check my post here -

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...ml#post3960454

Dr. Naren has recently installed Mini H1 7.0 in a reflector based setup, the following link should provide all the information required -

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifi...ml#post4008620

Hope this clears up things.

harsh79,

Thank you for the info and reference threads. I will go through them and then decide on my next step.

Cheers,
saketheerdha

[sandroidz80]

Found this video on youtube. Didn't know the i20 key could be cloned so easily. This may be a big security issue.

https://youtu.be/lBH5rWbibsA

[saketheerdha]

Originally Posted by Jebs

This is a great news man! Please let me know the experience once fitted. Mine is petrol and I'm really wants to have some additional power(or an experience) which K&N filter will provide. Please share the sourcing details as well. As per amazon site, K&N filter models differs from old i20 with new one.

Jebs,

I got the K&N and I have fitted it myself. It is just a simple replacement. Not that I am a pro at anything, this is the first time I have opened the bonnet to do anything apart from refilling washer fluid. But this was a very simple plug in and it fits right in! The part number is 33-2949 and you could contact Stunnerz in Hyderabad to see which dealer they've got it from Bangalore and try and contact them. Or if you want to get it from the online link I have provided in the previous reply, that could be a good option as well since I can assure you that it is the same part and it fits exactly right.

Very initial feel - It might be too early to tell any difference since it has just been a 10km drive with the K&N. Little to none in the power and torque department but there is a feel of ease. The only difference I could feel is the engine breathing a bit freely. I do my shifts to gears 2 and 3 at around 1900-2000 rpm, and with the stock filter, there used to be a millisecond of engine choking twice or thrice (with the A/C on) as soon as the shift occurs and only in those gears - I do not find this happening with the K&N. Cannot comment on fuel efficiency yet. I just got my oil replaced with synthetic in my second service 10 days ago, and that has added to the overall performance as well. Will let the K&N experience grow on me for the next week and update if there's anything worth noting.

Cheers!
saketheerdha

[prateekvidya]

The K&N filter does help improve fuel economy. I never calculated by how much, but I did a simultaneous replacement of my air filter with an upsize of alloys and tires, and the new air filters were able to compensate for the loss in mileage coming in from the bigger & wider tires.
The big watchout though is to not forget to clean it regularly (with a K&N starter kit available online), this was taken care in your servicing uptill now; and make sure you have the sticker pasted on your box to avoid it being thrown.

[Jebs]

Thanks a for sharing the initial feedback Saketheerdha! I understand the new feel is really good, Please keep us posted the experience, I'm planning to add them a 2-3 weeks time. I've ready somewhere that we might need to reset the ECU in order to accept the new airfilter flow level as the existing one holds the stock settings. Is this needed?

[saketheerdha]

Originally Posted by prateekvidya

The K&N filter does help improve fuel economy. I never calculated by how much, but I did a simultaneous replacement of my air filter with an upsize of alloys and tires, and the new air filters were able to compensate for the loss in mileage coming in from the bigger & wider tires.
The big watchout though is to not forget to clean it regularly (with a K&N starter kit available online), this was taken care in your servicing uptill now; and make sure you have the sticker pasted on your box to avoid it being thrown.

Prateekvidya,

Yea, I guess it will give better fuel economy, but I am yet to put more kms on the ODO to try and notice the difference. And yea, I put the sticker as soon as I fit the filter in. And I will make sure they don't accidentally throw it away.

Originally Posted by Jebs

Thanks a for sharing the initial feedback Saketheerdha! I understand the new feel is really good, Please keep us posted the experience, I'm planning to add them a 2-3 weeks time. I've ready somewhere that we might need to reset the ECU in order to accept the new airfilter flow level as the existing one holds the stock settings. Is this needed?

Jebs,

It is suggested to go for an ECU reset but it is not mandatory. I did not do it, I just plugged the new filter in and am going about with the stock settings. I will continue with that for a couple of days, get to know and feel it. I will then do the reset and see if there is any difference. Since this is just a stock replacement (without any mods), I do not think it is going to make a huge difference, but nevertheless I will visit my mechanic once and take his opinion on it. I will keep you posted.

Cheers!
saketheerdha

[Rahul_]

I am supposed to give my car for service in couple of days for the 30k service for the CRDi variant. I happened to somehow misplace my service manual. Can someone help with the major components that would require attention at the 30k service ? When is a good time to change gear oil ?

Any link to the .pdf version of the manual as well would be highly appreciated !!
I usually use the Shell helix ultra (full-synth) which I buy and give it to the workshop guys for change. Is anyone using any other Oil with good results ?

Also, the AC is equipped with "clean air" system which is some kind of Ionizer I suppose. Does that require any attention/cleaning etc ?

[Rahul_]

30k Service Update
=============

Gave my car for 30k service today. Following are the details of Jobs done.

1) General Service - Throttle body cleaning and other essential checks and Wheel Alignment & Balancing and Rotation.
2) Replacement - Engine Oil, Oil filter, Air Filter, Brake Oil, Coolant and Front brake Pads.

Other Items
* Citing reasons that changing tyres from alloys to Steel would damage the rims, he did a 4 wheel rotation. I am not very convinced. How do you get it done ? Previously I had always got a 5 wheel rotation done.

* Didn't opt for decarbonisation as I use STP injector cleaners before every service/oil change myself. The cost had huge difference. ~300 for the bottle and you need to pour it to the diesel tank yourself, they would charge ~1800 for the same.

* I opted for throttle body cleaning because SA pressed for it. Is it important for diesel cars ? if yes, what is done as part of this?

* Also, I provided the Shell Ultra Helix (full-synth) myself for the oil change. Also, got the wiper blades replaced for all wipers as its nearly 2 years now.

* Total cost was ~Rs 10,200. This is after I purchased oil separately.

Upcoming Big expense
I was told that clutch was on a bit harder side. I might have to get pressure plates and clutch plate replaced in next service. The general estimate for replacement of these 2 items + labor was 15k. Is it really this expensive ?

[ricky_1605]

Originally Posted by Rahul_

Gave my car for 30k service today. Following are the details of Jobs done.

4 wheels rotation can be done easily, front left goes to right rear and front right goes to left rear. Rear tyres go to front in their respective directions.
I don't think decarbonisation is required at just 30k kms. It should be a 100k kms service thing IMO.
I am at 36k kms and the SA advised to get brake pads changed at 40k service.
Clutch replacement at 30k kms is too soon. Do you drive mostly in city?

Mod Note : Please quote ONLY the relevant bits of a post. Quoting a full, long post inconveniences our mobile readers.

Thanks!

[Rahul_]

Originally Posted by ricky_1605

I am at 36k kms and the SA advised to get brake pads changed at 40k service.

The brake pads would have lasted for 2k more but I was told this, when I was looking at the replacement parts. Anyways, it is not advisable to use brake pads till the very end, this would lead to warning indicator metal rubbing through the discs. In your case, make sure you get it replaced immediately when you hear some noise of metal rubbing during braking.

Originally Posted by ricky_1605

Clutch replacement at 30k kms is too soon. Do you drive mostly in city?

For the clutch part, yes most of my driving is in the city and bumper to bumper. However, the clutch feels just fine to me, I haven't experienced any juddering or change in power delivery as yet. There was a comment in the service sheet that clutch is a little hard, to which I enquired about the costs to be aware of future maintenance costs. I think the clutch should last a minimum of 10k at least.
Frankly, I was surprised to hear the replacement cost for clutch to be 15k, I was expecting it to be lesser for Hyundai.

[naveen.raju]

First swift and now i20, with the Kabali Edition.



Should get the pictures tomorrow from my SA.

[four.bytes]

I have i20 CRDi era(starting model). Although it doesn't have remote lock it does have one button lock. The button is above hazard light button, locks all the doors instantly. I want to install just the remote lock part. All is required is to wirelessly push the Lock button. I went to the accessory shop, the person there is asking for the whole AutoCop remote lock installation and charging 4-5K for that. I think this is highly unnecessary and he's not understanding the scope of the work. Any ideas guys. I'm located in Bangalore(Bellandur area).

Another question: By default my car has single din slot, but I can see the space is there yet the slot is not provided for 2-Din size. What is the easiest way to install a 2-DIN stereo. I'm thinking of 2-DIN Android Stereo install.

[udainxs]

Originally Posted by four.bytes

All is required is to wirelessly push the Lock button.

Very unlikely that there is any aftermarket solution for your specific need to wirelessly push that button.

Autocop will get the job done albeit in its own way and with some more bells and whistles

[four.bytes]

Originally Posted by udainxs

Very unlikely that there is any aftermarket solution for your specific need to wirelessly push that button.

Autocop will get the job done albeit in its own way and with some more bells and whistles

Apparently you don't have to physically push the button. There's a wire in the driver's side door apparently that will do locking/unlocking upon receiving high low. One can use this aftermarket keyless entry system http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-PCS...6-fa6b23791c4a

Now I need to find a smart accessory guy to understand and do all this.

[saketheerdha]

Originally Posted by Jebs

Thanks a for sharing the initial feedback Saketheerdha! I understand the new feel is really good, Please keep us posted the experience, I'm planning to add them a 2-3 weeks time. I've ready somewhere that we might need to reset the ECU in order to accept the new airfilter flow level as the existing one holds the stock settings. Is this needed?

Jebs,

After a couple of weeks of K&N, I have now found a new place for the filer - in my boot. And here is why - I think you might find a difference if you reset the ECU and all that, but that is something I didn't do. What I experienced was a free breathing engine and a 10% increase in the Fuel economy. It is for the same driving pattern so I can confirm that I have experienced a proper breathing engine and a bump in FE. That being said, only in the city ride. Out on the highway, there was a lot of vibration and noise upon hitting the 85kmph mark and then the car struggled and growled (while vibrating) to reach and cross 100kmph. Reality hit me when my not-at-all-interested-in-cars better half asked me why my car was making so much of a noise. Being a super duper fan of K&N, I think my car just rejected it. I had the same drive again after replacing it to the stock air filter and I could not even feel a bit of vibration or growl hitting 120+ kmph. So, for what it is worth, (may be I did a partial install by not resetting the ECU) K&N is great with the growl and increased FE in the city. On the highway, it is just no where in comparison with the stock and not worth a penny.

Again, it is just my personal experience and I believe every car is different. But this is something I had to share.

Thanks and Regards,
saketheerdha.