[niteshbids]

Hi guys,

While recently checking the face lift i20 as a replacement of my ageing i10. I noticed a strange phenomenon.

Whule going above 3500 rpm, specially if throttle input is on the higher side, it seems that there is a noticeable dip in the power/torque for a moment before resuming again. This was quite repeatable. I thought it might be a problem with the particular vehicle, but the same was noticeable in a different vehicle at a different dealership.

Anyone else noticed this?

Also, is it only me or others share the grouse i have with them for keeping a basic feature like the rear windshield wiper only on the Asta(o) variant?

[samcan123]

Originally Posted by niteshbids

Hi guys,
While recently checking the face lift i20 as a replacement of my ageing i10. I noticed a strange phenomenon.
Whule going above 3500 rpm, specially if throttle input is on the higher side, it seems that there is a noticeable dip in the power/torque for a moment before resuming again. This was quite repeatable. I thought it might be a problem with the particular vehicle, but the same was noticeable in a different vehicle at a different dealership.
Anyone else noticed this?
Also, is it only me or others share the grouse i have with them for keeping a basic feature like the rear windshield wiper only on the Asta(o) variant?

Since you say you were going above 3500rpm, I believe you have test driven the petrol i20. Petrol i20 is known for not so great pick up. Being a slightly heavier car than i10, you would've noticed it evidently. Even my Aspire petrol is sluggish at certain RPM ranges (below 2000 rpm and above 3500rpm). The sweet spot for my car is between 2K and 3.5K. It is unlike the usual ideology that petrol cars rev higher than diesel counterparts.
What is the use of just over revving if there is no sufficient power output at that range?
My point is, find the sweet spot for your car and adjust your gear changing habits accordingly. It will provide you sufficient power.

[niteshbids]

Originally Posted by samcan123

Since you say you were going above 3500rpm, I believe you have test driven the petrol i20. Petrol i20 is known for not so great pick up. Being a slightly heavier car than i10, you would've noticed it evidently. Even my Aspire petrol is sluggish at certain RPM ranges (below 2000 rpm and above 3500rpm). The sweet spot for my car is between 2K and 3.5K. It is unlike the usual ideology that petrol cars rev higher than diesel counterparts.
What is the use of just over revving if there is no sufficient power output at that range?
My point is, find the sweet spot for your car and adjust your gear changing habits accordingly. It will provide you sufficient power.

You are right. I was test driving the petrol i20. The behavior I'm talking about is a momentary dip after which the performance resumes. Not a very encouraging feeling.

Regarding over-revving, i agree that there is no point in over-revving an engine without performance gains. But when the peak torque comes in at 4000 rpm and peak power at 6000 rpm, it would be a hell of a compromise to have to keep the engine below 3500 rpm at all times.

I like to exploit the power band of the engine when I'm driving specially on an open road and my choice has gone over to the Polo GT for the same reason . I wanted to check with the peeps driving this car whether others have felt it too.

[vnagarajs]

Originally Posted by niteshbids

Hi guys,

While recently checking the face lift i20 as a replacement of my ageing i10. I noticed a strange phenomenon.

Whule going above 3500 rpm, specially if throttle input is on the higher side, it seems that there is a noticeable dip in the power/torque for a moment before resuming again. This was quite repeatable. I thought it might be a problem with the particular vehicle, but the same was noticeable in a different vehicle at a different dealership.

Anyone else noticed this?

I do have this issue in my Asta(O) CRDI. You don't have to rev all the up to 3500 RPM. It is easily reproduceable, if you up shift from 5th to 6th gear around 2300 to 2500 RPM.

A team-bhpian have reported this issue long back but I couldn't find the post now.

Thanks.

[verma_rahul]

Originally Posted by niteshbids

You are right. I was test driving the petrol i20.
.
.
I wanted to check with the peeps driving this car whether others have felt it too.

Originally Posted by vnagarajs

I do have this issue in my Asta(O) CRDI.
.
.
Thanks.

Hi! Not sure if I've mentioned about this in my earlier posts, but yes this dip in power is definitely there and can be noticed specially on the highways/open roads.
When I had got it checked with the SA initially, I was told that this is common and there's some sort of re-calibration that happens and it will go away after having driven a couple of thousand kilometers. My car (Asta CRDi) has done 51K in 2.5 years and I still notice the dip in power at times, but it has definitely reduced.

[prasathlr]

Originally Posted by sanjubaba

Hello Friends,

I did my second Free servicing at 9860 KM this week. the service adviser while handing over car to me was giving some information like how to check oil and so on .. while he pulled out oil gauge, it was black. i did not say anything but he himself said as this is Diesel car the oil is black in color. is that the case or they did not flush completely ?

HI Sanju,

I got my I20 serviced this week, and my car covered 9500kms. I was present throughout the period watching them service the car. They drained the oil, poured in 5.6L of servo oil (yellow in colour). Even after that, when they were checking the oil gauge, it was still black. I believe it is due to the residual oil that's left behind. It was more like black sludge at the end of the oil gauge.

[verma_rahul]

Hi All!

My car has done 52K in 2 years and 7 months. It's an Asta CRDi.
The service was due and I got it done last Saturday (17th March). Didn't opt for Engine Decarb/Flushing as I had carried my own STP Engine Flush liquid bought from Amazon.
No repair whatsoever was required, except for the regular filter and engine oil replacement. No alignment/balancing at the service center (I get it done outside) and the bill was 6037/- only.
The car has become extremely smooth, partly because of the new engine oil and also (maybe) because of the STP Engine Flush. Had got mixed reviews online regarding the STP Engine Flush usage. Hence, had got it confirmed with the SA before using it.
Just thought of keeping you guys posted.
Rahul

[DrANTO]

Originally Posted by prasathlr

Hi Guys,

I am a total noob when it comes to automobile. I need your help in choosing the engine oil for Elite I20 Diesel.

The car is almost reaching 10k kms, can someone suggest a good engine oil? Should I try fully synthetic or should i stick to semi-synthetic?

Your advice will be very helpful.

My one year old ASTA Crdi has crossed 30000km. Today I gave it to HASS for regular service. The SA is a friendly chap and I have built up a good rapport with him during last 2 services. When I asked him to use synthetic oil for oil change, he told me that " Sir, we have only Servo engine oil now( both mineral and synthetic). It is not good and not worth the money." He suggested me to stick with mineral oil for this time( which is also Servo brand). Previously Hyundai had Shell mineral and synthetic oil in their inventory. Now according to SA they keep only Servo ( fat margin and low cost of procurement according to him).

Now my options are

1. After some 3000_4000 km change engine oil to some other mineral oil of better quality like shell or Castrol
2. Change to synthetic oil after 1000-2000km.
3. Stick with Servo as my car is in warranty.

After a lot of thinking, I have decided to switch to Synthetic oil after a couple of thousand kilometres. I am going to use either Shell full synthetic or Liqui Moly Synthetic oil -15W40- as per manufacturer recommendation. Also planning to use Liqui Moly Ceratec ( just to satisfy my curiosity)

Will update this thread and share my feedback.

[sanjubaba]

Originally Posted by prasathlr

HI Sanju,

I got my I20 serviced this week, and my car covered 9500kms. I was present throughout the period watching them service the car. They drained the oil, poured in 5.6L of servo oil (yellow in colour). Even after that, when they were checking the oil gauge, it was still black. I believe it is due to the residual oil that's left behind. It was more like black sludge at the end of the oil gauge.

thank you.. I also spoke with the manager there and he said you can come anytime in workshop and we will do oil change in front of you just so that you can believe that oil can still see black even if new.

[ts1506]

Sorry for the poor quality, but our Elite i20 was looking so sexy, could not resist taking a picture.

Even after 6+ months of ownership, this car never fails to turn my head every time. Absolutely love the coupe like stance, and the black C pillars give it a lot of character.

[prasathlr]

Hi guys,

One month ago, I had completed my second free service at 9500kms. I am totally unhappy with the servo engine oil used by the service center. Since the last one month, the engine feels rough and I can hear the engine sound from 1600 RPM, before the oil change it used to be audible around 2100 RPM. And my fuel economy has dropped from around 15km/l to 11.5km/l in the city. The SA informed me that the oil is servo and the spec is 20W40, but manual suggests SAE 15W40 and grade to be ACEA B4.

Can anyone please recommend me a good diesel engine oil? I wouldn't mind switching to synthetic as well. I am really unhappy with the way the car has been driving for the past one month.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by prasathlr

Can anyone please recommend me a good diesel engine oil? I wouldn't mind switching to synthetic as well. I am really unhappy with the way the car has been driving for the past one month.

I am with you in this. I hate the Servo 15W40 oil that is being used by Hyundai.

I plan to switch to Liqui Moly TopTec or Shell Helix 5W40 (Synthetic) during the 20,000 kms service.

Liqui Moly 9511 Top Tec 4100 5W-40 Engine Oil (5L)

Shell Helix Ultra 550041109 5W-40 API SN Fully Synthetic Car Engine Oil (4L)

[prasathlr]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

I am with you in this. I hate the Servo 15W40 oil that is being used by Hyundai.

I plan to switch to Liqui Moly TopTec or Shell Helix 5W40 (Synthetic) during the 20,000 kms service.

Shell Helix Ultra 550041109 5W-40 API SN Fully Synthetic Car Engine Oil (4L)

There is an offer going on for Shell Helix, I have decided to buy it. I have found in reviews that some Customers have used it on Elite I20 and they seem happy about it. So i am going to order it.

Thank you a4anurag.

[katchkamalesh]

Originally Posted by prasathlr

There is an offer going on for Shell Helix, I have decided to buy it. I have found in reviews that some Customers have used it on Elite I20 and they seem happy about it. So i am going to order it.

Thank you a4anurag.

Even I have been planning to get this oil from Amazon for my 1.4crdi. However, I understand that A.S.S will not entertain our request to change the oil using the one that we carry. We will have to buy one of options that the ASS provides.

Please check with your service adviser before you place the order for the oil.

[prasathlr]

Originally Posted by katchkamalesh

Even I have been planning to get this oil from Amazon for my 1.4crdi. However, I understand that A.S.S will not entertain our request to change the oil using the one that we carry. We will have to buy one of options that the ASS provides.

Please check with your service adviser before you place the order for the oil.

Yes, you are correct. They didn't entertain when I requested for Shell while the vehicle was getting serviced one month ago.
I have decided to do the oil change by myself, after the servo oil change, the car feels totally different.