[Juventino]

Hello,

I have an one month old elite i20 Asta. Recently I discovered (post around 100kms) that the reverse doesn't engage smoothly like it did before.

It gives me a grinding noise as I slowly release the clutch. I have to slot it back to neutral and give it another try or two for it to work fine (actually engages)

By now, I kinda know that it's not engaged fully (Gear lever doesn't go all the way back) but since I'm new to driving, as soon as the reverse camera screen lights up, I start releasing the clutch.

Is it me? Am I doing something wrong? Any wrong habit needs correction? Or there is actually some issue with the car

I'm new to this whole car thing so any piece of advice or tips will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

[ckranjan]

Originally Posted by Juventino

Is it me? Am I doing something wrong? Any wrong habit needs correction? Or there is actually some issue with the car

I'm new to this whole car thing so any piece of advice or tips will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

The reverse gear is notchy. happens with mine 41k run petrol right from begining. dont force. let it rest in neutral for 5 sec. and then engage again.

Originally Posted by The Rationalist

Hi all,
My colleague owns an i20 diesel and is complaining of brake issues. He says at times while applying brakes, he feels the brakes to be very hard and can't stop the car. He is a very sedate driver and the service centre has no solutions. I read few had encountered the same problem, did any of you find a solution for this problem?

I bet this happens on slow speeds. it does feel wooden a bit. takes a little time to get used to. its the nature of brakes on i20. If it happens at high speeds u should get it checked.

[motorguy]

Originally Posted by motorguy

An update to this. I had shown the Youtube video ( https://www.Youtube.com/watch?v=hTbj46FVR-Q ) to my SA and told him that the centre fascia was being removed incorrectly resulting in scratches to many customer cars. After he saw it, he called about 2 other mechanics, including the one who worked on my car and I played the video for them. (By the way, the video is in Spanish, but viewing it alone is self explanatory). My SA also told me to email the video link to him so that he can use it further training.

The response was unexpected. They were all happy to see this video and one told me that when they were trained at the Hyundai plant in Chennai, the trainer told them to use screwdrivers to pry open the panel). Anyway they told me for 5 years nobody told them it was the incorrect way to do it. The result of this bad training was quite a few customer cars scratched on the fascia.

The door light switch finally arrived, and using the procedure in the video, my mechanic flawlessly removed the panel without using any screwdrivers and without any further damage to the panel.

So, all's well that ends well. I am only sad that the mechanics are being probably trained in the wrong way in a lot of things - and that too at the formal Hyundai training.

P.S. Using the video, it took less than 10 minutes to remove the fascia. Using the screwdriver it took close to an hour and resulted in 2 scratches.

An update to this. The door light again stopped working in a period of just 4 months. Have again gone back and they have agreed to replace under warranty. Unfortunately the mechanic who worked on this has now been transferred to another location so will again have to make sure the new person who works on the car does it according to the video. Also the SA Benjamin who was quite good quit his job so now will have to "cultivate" another SA so that he does not try to take me for a ride!

On another note would like to hear from other petrolheads who have Elite i20s whether they have experienced the same issue? Cant believe the quality is this bad for a simple door light switch that it has to be replaced in a period of 4 months !

Even thought the replacement is under warranty it is still an effort to bring the car and I don't like the thought of opening up the center panel again. Also will have to make sure that the mechanic who installs the new switch does it according to the procedure in the video, or risk scratches to the dash.

Note: The switch is functional that it shuts the doors. The led blue light is the one that has an issue - sometimes it flashes randomly and other times it is completely off. Also sometimes it is bright and other times it is faint.

[katchkamalesh]

Gave my crdi for 3rd service at 19,500km and the total bill came to Rs. 4168.

This includes replacing engine oil, oil filter, air filter, A/C filter, wheel balancing, and wheel alignment.

I opted out of replacing the fuel filter as it was changed uncessarily during the second service (10K km). If I had opted for replacement, the final bill amount would have increased by roughly another 2k including GST.

Wipers are streaking and guess its time to replace them. Wipers have lasted for just over a year desipte making sure that they are cleaned before using them.

[motorguy]

Originally Posted by motorguy

An update to this. The door light again stopped working in a period of just 4 months. Have again gone back and they have agreed to replace under warranty. Unfortunately the mechanic who worked on this has now been transferred to another location so will again have to make sure the new person who works on the car does it according to the video. Also the SA Benjamin who was quite good quit his job so now will have to "cultivate" another SA so that he does not try to take me for a ride!

On another note would like to hear from other petrolheads who have Elite i20s whether they have experienced the same issue? Cant believe the quality is this bad for a simple door light switch that it has to be replaced in a period of 4 months !

Even thought the replacement is under warranty it is still an effort to bring the car and I don't like the thought of opening up the center panel again. Also will have to make sure that the mechanic who installs the new switch does it according to the procedure in the video, or risk scratches to the dash.

Note: The switch is functional that it shuts the doors. The led blue light is the one that has an issue - sometimes it flashes randomly and other times it is completely off. Also sometimes it is bright and other times it is faint.

An update - the problem was not with the switch - it was with a loose pin in the dashboard wiring harness plug that was connected to the switch. To be sure, the mechanic placed copper strands in all the pin holes to ensure that contact on all pins are tight.

The only issue I have with Trident Hyundai is that because I asked the part to be ordered before the diagnosis, they have charged me Rs.1700 for the new switch saying they cannot send it back to Hyundai because the existing switch is now working. I find this a bit ridiculous but still take some of the blame because I didn't bring the car for diagnosis prior to ordering the part.

[ps_abhijith]

Not sure if anyone has experienced this issue before. My 2014 elite i20 crdi has done 52k km now. For the past few weeks, everytime i turn on the AC (climate control unit, i leave it on auto all the time), i was hearing a hissing like sound from inside the AC vents, like a gas was filling in a space, which used to stop after 3-4 seconds. I was experiencing improper cooling inside the cabin, sometime it would be too cold, and sometimes too hot.
I also noticed that extreme cold air was flowing out from the left ac vent in central console, and not so cold air from all other vents.
I had communicated this to my SVC last week anf they asked me to bring the car to check it. They gave me the car back saying the unit needs to be "updated" and the acc repair team informed that a valve may need replacement.
Today morning, when i switched on the acc, the hissing sound continued for more than a minute and the acc started to blow hot air. There is absolutely no cooling. I can feel the compressor turning on as the load on the engine increases when i turn on the AC.
I have no idea what has gone wrong. Car will go for "update" and valve replacement tomorrow.

[Col Mehta]

Originally Posted by ps_abhijith

Not sure if anyone has experienced this issue before. My 2014 elite i20 crdi has done 52k km now. For the past few weeks, everytime i turn on the AC (climate control unit, i leave it on auto all the time), i was hearing a hissing like sound from inside the AC vents, like a gas was filling in a space, which used to stop after 3-4 seconds. I was experiencing improper cooling inside the cabin, sometime it would be too cold, and sometimes too hot.
I also noticed that extreme cold air was flowing out from the left ac vent in central console, and not so cold air from all other vents.
I had communicated this to my SVC last week anf they asked me to bring the car to check it. They gave me the car back saying the unit needs to be "updated" and the acc repair team informed that a valve may need replacement.
Today morning, when i switched on the acc, the hissing sound continued for more than a minute and the acc started to blow hot air. There is absolutely no cooling. I can feel the compressor turning on as the load on the engine increases when i turn on the AC.
I have no idea what has gone wrong. Car will go for "update" and valve replacement tomorrow.

This is a common issue with most of the Hyundai's cars (particularly Grand i10s, Xcents and Elite i20s). Our 2015 model petrol Grand i10 has the similar hissing noise from AC unit. The AC unit keeps making that irritating hissing noise every 5 seconds, disappears and comes back again after a few seconds. The noise only comes when you increase the RPM, regardless of car moving or being stationary). Nobody from Hyundai has been able to come up with any satisfactory explanation to this characteristic. We even escalated this to Hyundai but all they tell you is that this is how they have designed the AC Upon checking a few brand new Grand i10s and Xcents in one of their dealerships, we found the same hissing noise in them. Shocking. I know that's not normal and someday it is going to cause further trouble to the car but we are living with it for the moment.

As you mentioned, you noticed this issue a few weeks ago, any way you remember hearing this or similar sort of noise in the past too? I'm asking this because we had this issue from day one and used to hear it occasionally but never paid much attention to it as it was very faint to start with. It was only when it gradually increased, we realised that we had a problem.

Please keep us updated with the development.

PS. We have another car from Hyundai - Creta diesel and it doesn't have this issue.

[Rahul_]

Originally Posted by ps_abhijith

I have no idea what has gone wrong. Car will go for "update" and valve replacement tomorrow.

Hey Abhijith,

Adding my experience if it helps you or/and others

I had a bad time time with my A/C for couple of months. Lot of sound from the left side (near glove box) and literally no air out of the vents - however whatever air was coming was cold. I opened the bonnet when the problem occurred with engine still running - I could see the ice formation over the a/c tubes and accumulator in the engine bay.

Service center folks changed thermistor and accumulator valve for me in the first two visits - in the third visit they opened up the dashboard and replaced the evaporator. This finally fixed the issue that was there for a while now.
Happy to report that no rattles yet after dashboard refitted - which was my most feared thing in the entire process.

During the process got to know that the valve is faulty in lot of cars and they needed to replace it in many i20s specifically.

All covered under warranty and no cost. With so much electronics in the car - makes big sense to extend warranty as much as possible.

[ps_abhijith]

Originally Posted by Rahul_

During the process got to know that the valve is faulty in lot of cars and they needed to replace it in many i20s specifically.

This makes a lot of sense now. Hyundai has outsourced their AC work under warranty to a third party vendor. As soon as i called up the guy, he said he needs to change a valve and everything will b fine. I was wondering how can he make this statement without even seeing the car.

Anyway i have given the car to the svc today morning and hope things to be back to normal.

[Jebs]

Recently my car's AC compressor completely replaced under warranty (under extended warranty) with zero payments from myside (not even for AC gas).

I was facing low cooling issues and they've told the compressor looks weak and better change under warranty itself.

[ps_abhijith]

Originally Posted by Rahul_

During the process got to know that the valve is faulty in lot of cars and they needed to replace it in many i20s specifically.

You were right, the accumulator valve is being replaced. This was the reason for the hissing sound and this is a defective part in most i20 and grand i10s.
They are also replacing something called thermistor inside the cabin.

Originally Posted by Col Mehta

Please keep us updated with the development.

The reason for total loss of cooling is that some small component near the copressor is damaged, which is preventing the coolant from being circulated properly. They said they can change the part alone, but as my car is under warranty, they have asked me to request for a complete change of the compressor itself as the failed part has put stress on the compressor and its better to change it for peace of mind. It may take upto a week or two to get the compressor. Till then my car is pretty much useless in hot kochi.

Note : I may have to pay for the ac refrigerant as it is a consumable.

[mudhasir]

I have a problem with my i20 elite vtvt. The vehicle does not start, when I try ignition I just hear a mild sound, it is very similar to when you apply self start on a scooter and scooter does not respond. I do not know if battery is an issue as the vehicle is exactly 2 years old and vehicle has been clocking 1500 kms every month. I have called up RSA and they are on their way. I have RSA and extended warranty for 2 more years.

Can anyone let me know what could be the problem and if battery is issue, I should expect charges to be paid out of my pocket?

[Jebs]

Originally Posted by mudhasir

I have a problem with my i20 elite vtvt. The vehicle does not start, when I try ignition I just hear a mild sound, it is very similar to when you apply self start on a scooter and scooter does not respond. I do not know if battery is an issue as the vehicle is exactly 2 years old and vehicle has been clocking 1500 kms every month. I have called up RSA and they are on their way. I have RSA and extended warranty for 2 more years.

Can anyone let me know what could be the problem and if battery is issue, I should expect charges to be paid out of my pocket?

This could be the battery drained issue. I left my car with panic indicator running on cold day for 1-2 hours, when i came back. I was hearing only tuk tuk sound from the start. Called a local battery shop guy to jump start the vehicle. Paid 250 bucks for the same. Drove the car 10-15 minutes things back to normal now.

[mudhasir]

Originally Posted by Jebs

This could be the battery drained issue. I left my car with panic indicator running on cold day for 1-2 hours, when i came back. I was hearing only tuk tuk sound from the start. Called a local battery shop guy to jump start the vehicle. Paid 250 bucks for the same. Drove the car 10-15 minutes things back to normal now.

It is indeed battery. RSA guys jump started the vehicle. I m planning to recharge my battery from a local vendor. It is surprising that battery died as I just finished 130 km drive last night and no incident such as lights left on etc. happened after that.

I have been using a woofer in my vehicle for the last 2 years and that is also used only when the vehicle is on. I m not sure if woofer has caused this.

[ts1506]

First damages are always painful.

Consider me unlucky, but 3 of our last 4 cars (Fiesta S, Ertiga and Sail U-VA) got scratched by auto and cycles on the very first day of delivery.

It was quite a pleasure driving the i20 for 3 months without a single scratch to show. That changes today.

I'm driving in my lane, a bus beside me in the next lane minding his own business. Suddenly, the bus veers towards my car, I hear the conductor shout at the driver, and a small screech as I see the front of the bus touching somewhere around the right back door.

Heartbroken, by the loud screech sound, I'm sure there will be deep scratches or even a small dent on the rear door, I drive back home morose, not even feeling like getting out and checking the car there.

Lo and behold, seems the bus only managed to scrape the door handle, just 1 tiny scratch and 2 deep scuff marks. No damage to the door, none to the bumpers.

The i20 took the brunt well. Although the scratch is still bothering me, my dad said to get over it, no point in repairing such a small scratch now. Will get it touched up during the 2nd service.