[CARDEEP]

I have been using my brother's odd numbered 2014 petrol i20 1.2L since 01 Jan 16 (in Delhi), every alternate day. Where my brother gets mileage of 12 kmpl for 6 kms he travels to his office daily, I believe have managed 15+ kmpl approx. easily in ~70 kms daily commute to my office in Delhi.

The trick IMO is to keep around 2k RPM mark (it is running at 80kmph in that RPM), though I get lesser chance to do so in Delhi traffic.

Further, the AC does robs of the power, & the butter smooth engine (my Aspire diesel is a different beast though) needs a firm foot at the A-pedal to catch up. I miss the 6th gear, which I believe should be compulsorily introduced on all i20s irrespective of petrol of diesel variant.

On a parting note I have managed to raise the RPMs to 4k+ on this heavy car, so I know how I have been treating the car like.

Still the 2 year car makes me loathe for Verna/ Creta, which could have been mine (instead of sub-4m Aspire) if the parking problems weren't there.

[vpillai]

Originally Posted by CARDEEP

I miss the 6th gear, which I believe should be compulsorily introduced on all i20s irrespective of petrol of diesel variant.

On a parting note I have managed to raise the RPMs to 4k+ on this heavy car, so I know how I have been treating the car like.

Hi CARDEEP,

It's very unlikely for you to get a 1.2L petrol i20 with 6 speed gearbox. Number of gears and gear ratios are chosen based on the engine characteristics. Diesel engines are, sometimes, provided with a lengthier 6th gear so that the vehicle can cruise at a higher speed without straining the engine by pushing it to a higher rpm. On the other hand, petrol engines provide better performance only when they are pushed to a higher rpm range (unless it is a direct injection engine like the Volkswagen’s 1.2TSI). There is no point in pushing your 1.4L CRDI beyond the 4000rpm mark because it has already reached its maximum output stage and there is nothing more to come out. But that is not the case with a 1.2L VTVT engine, at 4000rpm mark it is only entering its peak performance region and there is more to come till it reaches 6000rpm. Remember, diesel engines are low rpm engines and petrol engines are higher rpm engines. To compliment this you need longer gear ratios with diesel engines and shorter gear ratios with petrol engines to cruise at similar speeds, say at 110km/h.

[ps_abhijith]

Originally Posted by Piyush46

Sorry to change the topic!
I need some help people.
My request sensor button has stopped working out of nowhere:dead.
Thanks

Don't worry about the sensor.
My car is from the first batch, and I was one of the first to report this issue back in August 2015.
Unfortunately, you cannot just change the sensor switch, but need to change the whole door handle.
Since my case appeared early, I had to wait 45 days to get the door handle replaced. No issues afterwards.
I too have been using the sensor to lock and unlock the car, mainly for the convenience as well as to not wake up my neighbors at night as it locks the car silently without the horn like noise.

[RSR]

Hyundai have updated the prices of the i20 on their website. I presume these are for the new 2016 variants, as the Sportz(O) is no longer listed.

If one were to compare the new & old price lists, one can see that prices for the Era & Asta variants remain unchanged (despite the 2016 Era getting two airbags). The new Magna variant (also with 2 airbags now) gets a price hike of ~ 4k rupees. The new Sportz variant (which is equipped with a passenger airbag now) carries a price increase of ~ 6k rupees. The new Asta(O) now gets equipped with projector headlamps, static bending lamps (i.e. dedicated cornering lights) and LED DRLs from the i20 Active, and this variant has its price increased by ~ 17k rupees compared to the earlier one. They have still not updated the feature list on the main page, so I don't know if there are any other inclusions or omissions in the 2016 variants.

Here is the new price list (ex-showroom Chennai prices):



And here is the old one (ex-showroom Chennai prices):



The additional features are very, very welcome, and the Elite i20's 2016 variants provide that much more bang for the buck now!

[vpillai]

Originally Posted by Dieseldrifter

he replied that Elite i20 and Creta comes with a very different kind of steering system that requires a reset of sensor after performing an alignment. He walked quickly and came out with the Hyundai diagnostic set and connected it to my OBD port of my car and drove the car. After 1 km, he stopped the car and turned the steering wheel to extreme right and extreme left for 2 times, worked something with the diagnostic set for 1 minute and then asked me to drove the car, I was surprise to see that, the pulling problem was no more there. I thanked SA for his work, he replied that every time if you get your alignment done from outside than please visit service center for getting the sensor reset, else get it done from H.A.S.S only.

Hey Guys,

Has this information been confirmed ? How many of our fellow BHPians have done this / observed this being done on their Elite i20s / Cretas ?

This is news for me. I haven't heard of any such steering wheel reset which is required after every wheel alignment process (of course, my knowledge is limited). I have done the alignment + balancing process two times on my Elite i20. Once at 5000kms and then again at 10000kms. First time it was done at an outside independent shop and I am sure that they have not done any steering reset at all. And I did not feel any side pull on my car for the next 5000kms. And at 10000kms the alignment was done at the ASC and I am not sure whether they have connected the OBD and done anything else.

If somebody can provide more information on this, it would be helpful.

Thank you.

[rajesh1868]

Not sure if this is already reported here. I was in Hyundai showroom today to checkout i20. The 2015 models are soon getting over and there is a wait period of 1-2 months based on the variants for the 2016 version

Attaching the info that was provided there. The key change is Dual Airbags from base model. But ABS is from mid model only

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by rajesh1868

Attaching the info that was provided there. The key change is Dual Airbags from base model. But ABS is from mid model only

I see something interesting here unless I missed this before.

There is now a Asta (O) variant which has the 7" touchscreen AVN system but now also gets the projector lights with LED DRL from the Active i20.

Also I don't see the Sportz (O) which is actually pointless since the Sportz gets ABS+2 airbags itself. Only thing the Sportz loses is those gorgeous 16" alloy wheels.

Earlier the only variant which seemed worthwhile was the Asta variant as others sacrificed on safety.

Now the Sportz makes a real strong case for itself. Add the alloys later on and it's brilliant package if you cannot spend extra for the top spec ASta (O).

That said the Asta (O) now is fully loaded. There is not a single feature you can say is missing in the top trim.

If I want a no compromise complete hatch, the Elite i20 Diesel Asta (O) is the pick of the lot.

[Yeldo]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

I
Only thing the Sportz loses is those gorgeous 16" alloy wheels.


Now the Sportz makes a real strong case for itself. Add the alloys later on and it's brilliant package if you cannot spend extra for the top spec ASta (O).


If I want a no compromise complete hatch, the Elite i20 Diesel Asta (O) is the pick of the lot.

'Overdrive' report says "...the 2016 Hyundai Elite i20 will also feature new diamond cut alloy wheels, like the ones on the Hyundai i20 Active...", and that is a dampener indeed if true. The alloys of the 2015 Elite are way better looking than the Active's alloys.

For 50,000 extra over 'Sportz', the 'Asta' offers alloys, rear wipe/ wash and push button start along with some other minor features. So it is not a poor deal, either.

And just as you mentioned, the Asta (O) variant seems to be loaded to the brim and then some. Perfectly suited for a buyer looking for full features of luxury cars in a manageable city friendly size.

[vpillai]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

That said the Asta (O) now is fully loaded. There is not a single feature you can say is missing in the top trim.

EBD is missing. Now, can somebody give me a convincing answer for that? All other hatch backs in this segment have this feature, even in the mid level variants. But the most premium car in the segment does not have this safety feature at all, even in the top trim. Why?!!

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by vpillai

EBD is missing. Now, can somebody give me a convincing answer for that? All other hatch backs in this segment have this feature, even in the mid level variants. But the most premium car in the segment does not have this safety feature at all, even in the top trim. Why?!!

While the specs don't mention EBD explicitly, I would be very surprised that EBD is absent but ABS is standard. Most of the cars today have EBD along with ABS as EBD is a subsystem of the ABS module.

This can be double confirmed but I highly doubt EBD is not part of the ABS package in any of today's cars.

[kanishkster]

Had taken my petrol i20 for second service recently and wanted to share my experience regarding one of the issues.
I had complained about a feeble noise that was coming during acceleration. The noise was as if someone is blowing air through a metal pipe, and it used to increase proportionally with acceleration. The service guy attending me did not even care to patiently sit with me and just confirmed that he could hear the noise and will get it fixed.
After few hours I got a call from service center and they confirmed that they have identified the noise issue and it appears to be a problem with silencer muffler. It will cost around 12,000 and they will be replacing the same. However the part will take around a week to be procured. I was pretty glad that atleast they could identify the root cause and also that my car is under warranty. But I was still wondering that the noise was coming from front and what silencer had to do with it.

Got a call from service centre after a week that the part is available, and I left my car with them. After confirming in evening that my car is ready, I went with quite an excitement to collect it. Sat in the car, ignited, accelerated and to my surprise, the sound was still there. There was absolutely no change.
Service guy got panicked and told that their floor incharge has personally replaced the part and hence it is quite not possible.

Floor incharge showed up after few mins, heard the noise for few seconds and then called someone on phone.
After finishing the conversation, he turned ON the blower (setting the fan speed to lowest) and then turned ON the AC. Voila, the sound was gone. I confirmed this couple of times by accelerating.
The moment he turned the AC OFF, the sound was back.
He took a deep breath and confirmed that this time he has identified the exact cause and it is with AC compressor. When compressor engages with engine (AC is ON) there is no sound, and the moment it disengages it produces that noise. Although I did not completely get what he was trying to say, but atleast was happy that this time they found the correct cause of the problem.

I had to leave my car again for a day and this time the AC compressor was replaced. I went to collect the car and this time the issue was actually fixed. Absolutely no noise, with or without AC turned ON.

All is well that ends well .

However I was also thinking that this careless attitude of service guys might cost a bomb to those whose car is not under warranty.

[ro3hit]

I get a similar sound especially during cold starts. I always thought that it was the turbo whistle. Is it something that I need to worry about now

[kanishkster]

Originally Posted by ro3hit

I get a similar sound especially during cold starts. I always thought that it was the turbo whistle. Is it something that I need to worry about now

The noise issue that I had was consistent, and could be noticed in parallel to acceleration. Also because petrol cars are generally silent, any extra sound from engine can easily be noticed in a closed cabin.
Frankly, I am not sure if this problem is specific to only petrol cars, or can be seen in diesel as well. I can re-confirm with the service guy.

He did however mention that the this issue has been seen in few other cars as well and that it is a manufacturing defect.

Anyways, I can recommend a very simple test(especially for petrol owners) to identify if their car has this problem:

1. Ensure that cabin is closed (windows turned up). Keep the car in neutral and push the accelerator very slightly.
2. Now while doing this, simply toggle the AC to ON & OFF and observe the engine sound. (Ensure that the fan speed is set to lowest to avoid any noise from blower).
3. If you notice any change in engine sound (there is a very clearly audible additional noise) with AC OFF, you have the issue, otherwise not.
This sound should go away as soon as you turn the AC ON

[Dinesh_Malhotra]

Hi Everyone,

My Elite i20 is nearing 20k kms. Recently (last week), I had dropped off my Car at Sharayu Hyundai because it was making some noise ("karrraak" like an old almirah) from the centre of the dashboard each time I switched off the ignition from a drive of more than a kilometre or two.

The guys at Sharayu were able to get rid of the problem by lubricating some part of the AC but, in the process I am seeing changed behaviour with my ACC.

I will share the problem (help me be sure of it) with you guys here:

Car: Elite i20 diesel Asta
Time: Evening
Usual Ac Blower: Centre vents after few seconds of all vents for cleaning
Current Ac blower: All ac vents (totally haywire)
Temprature: Less than 20 outside
Automatic Climate Control: ON
"It switches off the AC - the right knob doesn't glow anymore and starts throwing damp air"

Never observed this behaviour before while the atmosphere remained the same in last few weeks.

All Elite i20 owners with ACC and winter around them, can you please for my sake, have a check on your ACs functioning in cold weather and confirm if what I am seeing is normal or not?

PS:
Each time I press rear defogger button, it makes another "kattak" sound (small one at that)

[toiingg]

In winters, with the climate control in 'Auto' mode the AC will not be on all the time. Depends on the outside temperature.

If u want to check if climate control is working normal, when u see the AC gone off, just reduce the Temperature and you'll see the light on the right side knob coming back on.

Nothing to worry about