[locusjag]

Originally Posted by shreedharan

Thanks Locusjag for revert. Question is, is it something to worry about?

A hard brake can be the result of loss of vacuum in the braking system, a tear in the brake booster's diaphragm or indeed, it could've been the ABS.

When this occurred, after doing my research, I basically re-checked the brake for this - when you start the engine, the vacuum brake assist should kick in. Try pressing the brake a bit, now engage the hand-brake. You would feel the brake-pedal sink a little all by itself (i.e., with no added pressure by your foot). Now turn the engine off and try pumping the brake pedal. Initially you'll have that assisted spongy feel before it goes hard eventually.

If the brake pedal's behavior is how i've mentioned - it means that the brake-assist plumbing is all functional. You could keep an eye on it, checking for worsening performance. Chances are that it was the ABS that had kicked in as you surmised.

[shreedharan]

Originally Posted by locusjag

A hard brake can be the result of loss of vacuum in the braking system, a tear in the brake booster's diaphragm or indeed, it could've been the ABS.

When this occurred, after doing my research, I basically re-checked the brake for this - when you start the engine, the vacuum brake assist should kick in. Try pressing the brake a bit, now engage the hand-brake. You would feel the brake-pedal sink a little all by itself (i.e., with no added pressure by your foot). Now turn the engine off and try pumping the brake pedal. Initially you'll have that assisted spongy feel before it goes hard eventually.

If the brake pedal's behavior is how i've mentioned - it means that the brake-assist plumbing is all functional. You could keep an eye on it, checking for worsening performance. Chances are that it was the ABS that had kicked in as you surmised.

Now that explains. Thanks for pointing out the hardness at the before starting the engine. Which is what I faced shortly after being "on air" for a few meters. Will keep an eye on this. Thanks again.

[locusjag]

Originally Posted by Tushar

Bottle holder + two storage pockets:

I had e-mailed Mahindra's customer care asking about why I don't have these storage options on my January 2018 manufactured TUV 300 T8.

They've reverted and confirmed that as of December 2017, this bottle holder and 2 storage pockets in the rear door have been removed from the TUV 300. A dealer representative also called me and said that the T10 might have it still.

Anyway, I've asked them if I can get it retro-fitted. Awaiting their call for feasibility of doing so and a cost estimate for getting it done.

[LegalEagle]

I own an April '18 T10. I have the last row bottle holder and door pockets option in the car.

If you are considering retrofilling it, it might involve a replacement of the entire rear panel, as it is a single piece. Will try to post pictures sometime today to clarify.

[locusjag]

Originally Posted by LegalEagle

I own an April '18 T10. I have the last row bottle holder and door pockets option in the car.

Thanks for confirming that!

If you are considering retrofilling it, it might involve a replacement of the entire rear panel, as it is a single piece. Will try to post pictures sometime today to clarify.

Yes, I was told so indeed, that the entire panel would need to be replaced. They've also said that it may well not be feasible. As it is the interior storage is somewhat bad in this vehicle, why did they have to go and do this? I have plenty of loose articles sliding around on the 3rd row floor area - a tyre inflator, some water bottles, a squeegee/hand held wiper, a duster, waste cloth etc.

[procrj]

Originally Posted by locusjag

Anyway, I've asked them if I can get it retro-fitted. Awaiting their call for feasibility of doing so and a cost estimate for getting it done.

IMHO, its not worth spending money to replace the entire panel as the pockets are shaped a little weirdly and things that you place in their are prone to rattle. Would suggest you get some small organizers that you can fit under the 2nd row and use that to store whatever needed else you can get a back seat organizer and use that.

[locusjag]

Originally Posted by procrj

IMHO, its not worth spending money to replace the entire panel as the pockets are shaped a little weirdly and things that you place in their are prone to rattle. Would suggest you get some small organizers that you can fit under the 2nd row and use that to store whatever needed else you can get a back seat organizer and use that.

They've reverted saying it's feasible and inclusive of parts and labor, at ~Rs.2400 it can be fitted.

I already have fitted a back seat organizer, at the back of the driver's seat. Instead of the rear hatch fitment i'm thinking of, maybe I could get a back seat organizer which hangs off of the two 2nd row headrests, at the back of the 2nd row seat. I've seen those in Aliexpress. But it'll just be a big, netted hanging bag.

[ramnaresh_2000]

I was thinking to upgrade my Tank's ICE from a long time. I always wanted a touchscreen ICE with navigation, however, when I purchased my T8, Mahindra did not launch T10 model and hence missed it out.

From last few months I was searching online for a suitable double din system for my Tank. However, I couldn't find a frame which will be suitable to replace existing ICE.

So I decided to visit Minister Road (Car accessories paradise in Hyderabad) for window shopping. I went directly to one of the oldest shops there "Fastracks" and started asking around.

I already did some research on touchscreen ICE systems before going there, else these people will take you for a spin. My requirements were simple,

1) Must be 7" Touchscreen or bigger
2) Must support Android Auto and Apple carplay
3) Must support reverse camera
4) Must support steering controls
5) Must be able yo play Full HD videos

I shortlisted below options

1) Sony XAV-AX5000 (24,990 on amazon)
2) Pioneer AVH-Z5190BT (27,549 on amazon)
3) Sony XAV-AX3000 (18,500 on amazon)

The SA said they had all 3 models in stock, but insisted on Kenwood DMX7018BT model, and explained it's features. It ticked all my requirements, except Android Auto, which he assured can be done via their in-built app, he also said it supports wireless screencast, this option was interesting as the models I picked did not have this feature. The MRP on the box was 28,500. I went ahead and asked for a quotation and got below

Kenwood ICE - 28,500
Frame - 2500 (Generic) -
Sockets & Wiring - 1500
Reverse Camera - 2500 (Generic)
Labor - 500
Credit Card Charges 2% - 710

Total - 36,210

I straight away knew these charges were exorbitant. Then started the bargaining process, the thing is these people have been doing business from decades and they read customers quickly based on their Car Model, Body Language and Nativity. To be honest I am very bad at bargaining, so we finalized below

If Cash - 30,000
If Card - 31,000 -

I felt like it was good deal because all the models I shortlisted were around 25k on amazon and I would have to shell out some extra money for wiring and fitting, also I was getting reverse camera as well. So agreed to 31k as I was using CC. They started fixing the ICE at 1:00 PM and took 3 hours to complete.

Removing Old ICE



Fixing Kenwood ICE



Finally I started testing

1) Steering Controls - Check
2) Reverse Camera - Check
3) Bluetooth - Check
4) Touch Screem - Not very responsive
5) Wireless Screencast - Not working

I called SA and showed him it's not working, he tried 30 minutes and gave up. He then called Kenwood sales person and that guy said it does not support wireless screencast. I was fumed, gave SA a piece of my mind. He accepted that it's their fault and offered Sony ICE at 30k total. I said fine, then they came to know it was out of stock, oh boy it was already a long day and I was tired.

Finally decided to go with Pioneer. It was actually very good and better than Kenwood. This time they took 1 hour to fix it and complete setup. I then tested everything, all was well. SA started his sad story saga of how it wasted their time due to double work and started asking for 32k. I said no way straight away and told him how they wasted my weekend however, paid 15k cash and remaining on CC.

It was a tiresome experience, but finally upgraded my ICE to touchscreen. Wifey loved it, so happy ending. Posting some pics of setup. I also enquired with MASS on touchscreen and got 30k quotation for Mapmyindia ICE. I did not like it so dropped the idea.

Hole Made on Rear Bumper for Reverse Camera



Final Finished Product





Booting for first time

As soon as I turn on the ignition, it takes approx 3-4 seconds to boot up.



User Interface



Android Auto - Maps



Supports Amazon Music

It shows on the screen "Amazon Music doesn't seem to be working right now", but I can hear the music from speakers. So might be some settings issue or a bug.



USB Connection to Phone

This is the most irritating and disappointment part of it, the USB wire cannot be fixed to existing USB port until they remove the conplete dashboard. Shabby implementation.



Other Minute Details:

- "OK Google" works flawlessly, can make calls and ask for directions hands-free, can search for nearest restaurants and gas station etc
- Touch response is very good, on par with smartphone
- DVD player option available (Who uses it in 2018? Never used DVD in last 7 years)
- New microphone is added, existing one is not supported
- Options available to change background, themes, and led backlight color
- 24 Months Warranty
- No wires were cut or tampered, sockets were used, so no impact on warranty
- No change in sound quality from speakers, sounds still the same
- Gaps in the frame are inevitable as the frame is after-market
- Voice Messages which irritated me are gone, "Careful one of the door is ajar", you know what I mean
- All options not explored yet

[locusjag]

Originally Posted by ramnaresh_2000

I was thinking to upgrade my Tank's ICE from a long time. I always wanted a touchscreen ICE with navigation, however, when I purchased my T8, Mahindra did not launch T10 model and hence missed it out.

From last few months I was searching online for a suitable double din system for my Tank. However, I couldn't find a frame which will be suitable to replace existing ICE.

As long as your warranty isn't affected by it, it is a good add-on to your Tank. My service center was very clear - "If you lay a hand on the wiring then all bets are off. We'll take any problems in the car on a case by case basis and your warranty may or may not apply." But if I were to get the OEM supplied Mapmyindia ICE kit (same features as what you've fitted), the warranty will remain intact according to them. Oh boy, if this isn't an unethical business practice, I don't know what is!

@ All

I'm nearing the 2nd free service for my Tank. It stands at 9000 Km now. There is a problem I'm facing now.

With a full load of 6 or 7 people in the car, between 1400 - 2000 RPM, with a depressed accelerator, a clearly audible humming can be heard inside the car. This humming is especially audible if climbing a slight incline. It is spaced out and is heard as a 'whoom whoom whoom'. Post 2000 RPM, this slow hum becomes muted because the engine spins faster; I can make out that the hum is there, but it's muted because it's just spinning more quickly. If i stop accelerating, it's all okay, there's no hum.

In a seemingly unrelated note, there's a different hum that can be heard regardless of the load in the car or acceleration at 40 - 50 Kmph. This, I believe to be a ball-bearing issue in the front left wheel.

I've certainly taken the "tough" image of the TUV for granted; I've seldom slowed down for potholes on the road. The ball bearing issue (or whatever it is) is on me. I should treat the Tank a bit more gently. But what could the other humming noise be about?

Edit: I found tsk's suggestions on the humming noise here - https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...ml#post1631710 (Mahindra Scorpio : Issues & Solutions)

So it could be one of any of these bearings -

Humming usually indicates a bearing issue.
Now there are lots of bearings which run when engine is running.
You have AC compressor bearings, idler bearing, engine bearings etc.,
Can also be the Alternator bearing, or power steering pump bearing.
There is no easy way to diagnose this, you have to proceed step by step.
For example, lets say the culprit was power steering.
Now with car stationary and engine on, and humming, turn steering left to right fast. This puts load on power steering, and the humming noise will change in pitch/volume.

Ditto for AC, if on turning on AC, the sound changes, its the AC compressor bearing.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...ibrations.html (Scorpio Vibrations)

[procrj]

Originally Posted by locusjag

a clearly audible humming can be heard inside the car.

Do you also feel any vibrations on the A/B pedals? If yes, then this could be the modulator issue which is quiet common.

In a seemingly unrelated note, there's a different hum that can be heard regardless of the load in the car or acceleration at 40 - 50 Kmph. This, I believe to be a ball-bearing issue in the front left wheel.

How did you narrow this down to the front left wheel? Asking because I have not seen anyone complain about any kind of bearings in the TUV. There was some issues with humming reported by owners who have opted for MLD. Other owners have had issues with alternator belts etc. becoming loose but never the bearing. Hence curious to know how you narrowed it down.

[locusjag]

Originally Posted by procrj

Do you also feel any vibrations on the A/B pedals? If yes, then this could be the modulator issue which is quiet common.

There's no discernible vibrations on the pedals. But given that i've been complaining about my Tank's inability to do high speeds easily, it could very well be the modulator after all.

How did you narrow this down to the front left wheel? Asking because I have not seen anyone complain about any kind of bearings in the TUV. There was some issues with humming reported by owners who have opted for MLD. Other owners have had issues with alternator belts etc. becoming loose but never the bearing. Hence curious to know how you narrowed it down.

I surmised as much because this hum occurs when i'm not accelerating and when i've depressed the clutch and the car coasts along at 40 -50 Kmph. The sound emanates somewhere from the left side and it is definitely from the front and not from the back. I could be wrong.

[ramnaresh_2000]

Originally Posted by locusjag

As long as your warranty isn't affected by it, it is a good add-on to your Tank. My service center was very clear - "If you lay a hand on the wiring then all bets are off. We'll take any problems in the car on a case by case basis and your warranty may or may not apply." But if I were to get the OEM supplied Mapmyindia ICE kit (same features as what you've fitted), the warranty will remain intact according to them. Oh boy, if this isn't an unethical business practice, I don't know what is!

I agree, I have 1.5 years of warranty left, I did not opt for extended 4th and 5th year warranty. I read the warranty booklet, everything is subject to MASS evaluation. I already know the answer for everything we ask "Saaar, this is not covered under warranty saaar". The Mapmyindia ICE Kit by Mahindra doesn't support androidauto or Apple Carplay and it's 6 inch screen. It's also very buggy, touch response was very bad, hence did not opt for it.

[locusjag]

Originally Posted by locusjag

@ All

I'm nearing the 2nd free service for my Tank. It stands at 9000 Km now. There is a problem I'm facing now.

With a full load of 6 or 7 people in the car, between 1400 - 2000 RPM, with a depressed accelerator, a clearly audible humming can be heard inside the car. This humming is especially audible if climbing a slight incline. It is spaced out and is heard as a 'whoom whoom whoom'. Post 2000 RPM, this slow hum becomes muted because the engine spins faster; I can make out that the hum is there, but it's muted because it's just spinning more quickly. If i stop accelerating, it's all okay, there's no hum.

I got my Tank through its 2nd free service on Saturday.

The Service Advisor told me that the humming noise is similar to the humming noise that the TUV Plus has when you lug the engine in a high gear under a load. The solution, it seems, is to downshift. If you think about it, this was mentioned by dear mod Blackwasp too in the TUV 300 Plus' review at https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/offic...ml#post4460819 (Mahindra TUV300 Plus (2.2L mHawk) : Official Review) -

While cruising on highways, noise from the road, engine & wind are within acceptable limits for this class of car. However, a certain hum & vibration are felt throughout the cabin when you lug the engine (this could be noticed on the Scorpio as well). Don't drive at too low an rpm in too high a gear.

This makes sense in a way to me. As I'd mentioned, the humming that I heard was at a low RPM range (1400 - 2000), only when I'd press the accelerator in 5th gear, with a full load of 6-7 people and particularly every time when lugging the engine while going uphill. I couldn't hear it when going downhill. So it makes sense that the humming is related to stress on the engine. So this Wednesday when I set out to Hosur again, I'll be sure to upshift from 4th gear such that I never lug the engine below 2000 RPM in 5th gear. I have a feeling that this will fix the problem for me. You learn something new everyday!

In a seemingly unrelated note, there's a different hum that can be heard regardless of the load in the car or acceleration at 40 - 50 Kmph. This, I believe to be a ball-bearing issue in the front left wheel.

I've certainly taken the "tough" image of the TUV for granted; I've seldom slowed down for potholes on the road. The ball bearing issue (or whatever it is) is on me. I should treat the Tank a bit more gently. But what could the other humming noise be about?

They assigned a mechanic to drive out with me seated alongside. When he did as I said, we both heard this low-speed humming. He said this is courtesy the Apollo tyres that came factory fitted. Michelin tyres are the solution apparently. I don't know about this... I'll get a wheel balancing done outside and then check for this noise.

Other interesting points I learned:
1) It seems aside from the Scorpio, the TUV is the only built to abuse vehicle from Mahindra so far. The mechanic was confident that no amount of abuse i'd dished out could break the bearings or anything in the car. "We will torque the bolts and nuts for you saar. Loose bolts are the only casualties from meting out tough treatment to this brute saar. This is too tough saar."
2) I asked him why I haven't been able to re-create the infamous wheelspin issue in my Tank. He said that Mahindra has changed the suspension kit entirely and that wheel traction in newer TUVs is non-existent.
3) I've been driving it all wrong, it seems. You need to cruise between 2000 RPM - 3000 RPM in 5th and you need to upshift from lower gears at 2000 RPM, to extract optimum engine performance. Meanwhile, I've seldom taken the engine above 2000 RPM so far!
4) Lastly, I used to hear assorted "tok" noises when I would turn the steering or go over speed bumps. As the mechanic had promised, all these noises are gone now. "Loose bolts saar, that's why you hear these noises. I also hear them. We'll fix them for you", he said It feels weird to own the Tank sometimes.

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by locusjag

3) I've been driving it all wrong, it seems. You need to cruise between 2000 RPM - 3000 RPM in 5th and you need to upshift from lower gears at 2000 RPM, to extract optimum engine performance. Meanwhile, I've seldom taken the engine above 2000 RPM so far!

The 84 bhp tuned TUV engine produces its peak torque of 230 Nm from 1500 rpm to 2250 rpm, whereas the 100 bhp version produces 240 Nm from 1600 to 2800 rpm. You will observe the car pulls well when you drive between these rpms. When you shift the gear @ 2000 rpm, there is a drop in rpm and may fall outside the peak torque zone. This is when the car struggles and you are in a hurry. press the "A" pedal, but don't get the necessary response from the car. Once in a while it is a good practice to race the engine beyond 3000 rpm, so that any carbon deposits in the exhaust line get blown away.

[AdityaDeane]

TUV300 Facelift spied again (source)