[sathyasuri]

Originally Posted by dieselburner

Hi,

Mine is Jan-16, T8 manual model with 96k on the ODO, recently I have also observed temperature difference in air coming out from vents, the air from driver side vent is warmer than the center console. However, the AC is working fine in Gurgaon as temp are touching 38-39 levels, I usually use AC in ECO mode & no complaints with the cooling of the cabin till now.

I haven't observed any whistling/humming sound or gas leak as of now. Are there any other sign of AC evaporator going kaput? With extended warranty expired couple of months back, this surely will be an added expense if it has gone wrong

Thanks.

Hi,
I think you are safe , whistle or hum is the main symptom. You are good as long as your AC unit is able to cool even in the summer temperatures .

When the evaporator failed in my TUV, the ac struggled to cool even in winter and when the coolant fully escaped the compressor stopped turning on(by design).

[diyguy]

I got this from the alert system today.
"Attention please check the oil pressure it is low"
Should i have the oil level topped up or could it be something more sinister? I park my TUV on a slope, could it be due to that?

[abhikb]

Originally Posted by diyguy

I got this from the alert system today.
"Attention please check the oil pressure it is low"
Should i have the oil level topped up or could it be something more sinister? I park my TUV on a slope, could it be due to that?

Would suggest you to check the engine oil level, if it’s at minimum level a top up should do the job. If it still persists a faulty sensor could be a reason.

So far, haven’t heard anything related to such issue by parking on the slope, still you may check it by parking on a flat ground.

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by diyguy

I got this from the alert system today.
"Attention please check the oil pressure it is low"
Should i have the oil level topped up or could it be something more sinister? I park my TUV on a slope, could it be due to that?

Check the oil level in the morning before the car is started, if the level looks good, and the oil light goes away after the car is started - it's a loose wiring. Ask them to remove and reinstall during the next service.

[LegalEagle]

Hi Guys, the "Engine!" warning light came on today in the car, and is not going away. There is no difference in the performance of the car in any way, neither any weird smell(s) or sounds. Not sure what is the issue here.
Photos attached. Thoughts please.

EDIT - The light went away on its own after driving back for around 6 kms or so.

Not sure what happened..

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by LegalEagle

Hi Guys, the "Engine!" warning light came on today in the car, and is not going away. There is no difference in the performance of the car in any way, neither any weird smell(s) or sounds. Not sure what is the issue here.

Photos attached. Thoughts please.

If the vehicle was parked for a long time, possibility is rats chewing through the EGR tubes, inexpensive. The Co-tech will have a mobile scan tool that can clear the code in a few minutes.

[LegalEagle]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

If the vehicle was parked for a long time, possibility is rats chewing through the EGR tubes, inexpensive. The Co-tech will have a mobile scan tool that can clear the code in a few minutes.

Hi Kosfactor,

Car has been running frequently and once every 2-3 days. Also the issue disappeared on its own after driving for 6 kms or so, after 30 minutes. Was updating when saw your response.

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by LegalEagle

Hi Kosfactor,

Car has been running frequently and once every 2-3 days. Also the issue disappeared on its own after driving for 6 kms or so, after 30 minutes. Was updating when saw your response.

Super! Perhaps a good idea to give it a scan next time. I once blew a fuse while replacing an aftermarket light and got a check engine light as a gift

The cotech got it fixed in minutes, they have a mobile scan tool app.

[airbus]

One of the parts taking a lot of wear and tear is Upper Case Remote Key. Previously Boodmo could not deliver my order and I bought two pieces from Amazon but one piece was already damaged at arrival, which I had returned. I saw the part available in Boodmo recently and got it. I paid ₹178 for two including shipping, while the MRP is ₹91. Hope Mahindra puts better plastic in future.

[LegalEagle]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

Super! Perhaps a good idea to give it a scan next time. I once blew a fuse while replacing an aftermarket light and got a check engine light as a gift

The cotech got it fixed in minutes, they have a mobile scan tool app.

The problem appeared again. This time took it to the Mahindra ASS. It turned out to be a cracked pipe from the intercooler to the engine feeding it air.

Lesson learnt - Never ignore a problem.

[chetans]

Originally Posted by airbus

One of the parts taking a lot of wear and tear is Upper Case Remote Key. Previously Boodmo could not deliver my order and I bought two pieces from Amazon but one piece was already damaged at arrival, which I had returned. I saw the part available in Boodmo recently and got it. I paid ₹178 for two including shipping, while the MRP is ₹91. Hope Mahindra puts better plastic in future.

my tanks main key is running out of juice. the lock-unlock key is non-effective at first go. have to press multiple times to get it working.
can i change the battery myself or do i need to replace the keys at dealer?

[airbus]

Originally Posted by chetans

can i change the battery myself or do i need to replace the keys at dealer?

You can easily replace the battery. You will need CR1632 (3V) battery. I did it couple of months back and working fine. You may refer this youtube video.

https://youtu.be/7Xk0_lQ-C-0

[deetee]

Originally Posted by LegalEagle

The problem appeared again. This time took it to the Mahindra ASS. It turned out to be a cracked pipe from the intercooler to the engine feeding it air.

Lesson learnt - Never ignore a problem.

I had the same problem this April. Due to lockdown couldn't take it to A.S.S in May. Reported it in June during regular service. A.S.S checked and found that one of the intercooler plumbing pipes had a crack. Costs about Rs.520 for replacement.

Symptoms:
1.Engine check light comes on
2. Apparently not much performance difference on 'normal drives'
3. Engine check light goes off after a few 100km and comes back on after sometime.
4. Black smoke from exhaust appears even for a light tap of accelerator pedal.
5. Lack of pulling power on steep inclines and lack of top end during highway drives
6. Mileage drops by more than 2-3kmpl


My car was driven for more than 3 years and 48k kms before this rubber pipe 'hardened' and cracked.

[shrinz.vivek]

I have been facing an extremely irritating problem lately. During normal driving the speedo meter comes down to zero, gear position indicator shows N, the odo meter stops counting, the car becomes slightly jerky.
During all this, the tachometer works fine.
I have tried all possible solutions like changing gears, pressing the clutch multiple times, slowing down, increasing speed, going over potholes roughly. The dial simply acts dead.
After staying like that for few kms, it springs back to life. Very similar to electrical loose connections.
Its really scary to see the speedo go down to zero when you are cruising at say 100kmph.
Anyone else faced this issue? Any solutions?
(Ill try to post a video soon)

[shrinz.vivek]

Originally Posted by shrinz.vivek

I have been facing an extremely irritating problem lately. During normal driving the speedo meter comes down to zero, gear position indicator shows N, the odometer stops counting, the car becomes slightly jerky.
Anyone else faced this issue? Any solutions?
(Ill try to post a video soon)

Video of the issue is here

https://youtu.be/Y-zKls_hZnc