[sapien]

Originally Posted by impala

I have been following thread pretty regularly and have not come across such a report. If you are able to reproduce, ASC should be able to diagnose and fix. I think there will be error codes which they can scan for.

There’s no sure shot way to reproduce but the 3 times this happened has always been on highways after driving for about 100+ kms.

Originally Posted by HillMan

You mentioned this happens after 100+ kms on highway speed. Are you facing any engine heating issue (if you were enjoying Zoom mode)? Do you have any Alert notifications on your instrument cluster? Ideally, there should be one. Take a picture next time. Most likely some sensor is failing or loose connection.

Thanks for the suggestions, have booked a service for error code checks. No zoom mode in petrol, also didn’t observe any engine heating at least on the MID. I was mostly driving around 90 with occasional slow downs to 50s and some sprints upto 100. Ideally this shouldn’t be causing the issue after a few 100 kms of driving. Will observe errors next time this occurs, don’t recall seeing any alerts. Anyhow service center should be able to find something.

[DCTfanatic]

Originally Posted by akg7091

What's the minimum RON rating recommended by Mahindra? Has anybody tried XP95/Power99, etc.? Any feedback on performance/mileage?

This reply might be a little late to your question but I just noticed that the minimum RON for a mStallion on the XUV700 is mentioned as 95 Octane in the XUV700 owners manual.

[himanshu_trikha]

Originally Posted by DCTfanatic

This reply might be a little late to your question but I just noticed that the minimum RON for a mStallion on the XUV700 is mentioned as 95 Octane in the XUV700 owners manual.

I posted this finding quite a few days back but the post didn’t get any traction.

Petrol Automatic is required to be 95 RON but no mention of octane rating for manual. Since it’s the same engine ,Min RON should be same.

I was filling regular Gasoline before I read the manual ,but now it’s XP95.

Any perceivable difference, none other than placebo effect.

[shrk_18]

Originally Posted by himanshu_trikha

I posted this finding quite a few days back but the post didn’t get any traction.

Petrol Automatic is required to be 95 RON but no mention of octane rating for manual. Since it’s the same engine ,Min RON should be same.

I was filling regular Gasoline before I read the manual ,but now it’s XP95.

Any perceivable difference, none other than placebo effect.

I see that Petrol AT can handle E20 while Petrol MT can only handle E10. Did I read that right ? Wondering why so ?

[DCTfanatic]

Originally Posted by himanshu_trikha

Petrol Automatic is required to be 95 RON but no mention of octane rating for manual. Since it’s the same engine ,Min RON should be same.

Originally Posted by shrk_18

I see that Petrol AT can handle E20 while Petrol MT can only handle E10. Did I read that right ? Wondering why so ?

A closer look at this makes it even more confusing. Why is the ethanol rating different for MT and AT. There is no difference in power output or tune for the mStallion in the MT and the AT. And if the issue is that E20 leads to less power and efficiency, it would have made sense if the MT had E20 while the AT was rated for E10. But here the case is the opposite.

Moreover, 95 RON is normally recommended for all turbo charged and direct injection petrol engines since they are more susceptible to engine knock due to high engine compression ratios. The higher RON prevents knock. But if the tune for MT and AT is the same then why suggest 95 RON only for the AT? If the mStallion in the 197bhp tune is gonna have engine knock at 91 RON then why does that not matter for the MT?

Another point of confusion is the compatibility of the mHawk with bio-diesel. The compatibility of the engine with B7 diesel is not mentioned anywhere.

Originally Posted by himanshu_trikha

Any perceivable difference, none other than placebo effect.

I would say irrespective of what Mahindra says, using 95 RON like the XP95 from Indian Oil or a high RON fuel will definitely be beneficial for a high capacity, high compression engine like the mStallion. Less chance of knock, less soot depositing on the spark plugs, cleaner fuel injectors, etc.

Dont know for sure in the case of the mStallion, but the T-GDi engines from Hyundai like the 1.0 Turbo only make their rated peak power on 95 RON fuel. The ECU has the ability to detect the frequency of knock and judge whether a lower RON fuel is being used. If it feels so, it will alter fuel injection parameters accordingly and lead to 5-7% loss in power. I have almost exclusively used only XP95 in my Venue since the last 8k km. The difference is noticeable. Only once did it happen that i was forced to fill up a tank full on normal 91 RON petrol from Indian Oil itself. Immediately harshness in the engine's sound and vibrations, more rev hang between aggressive shifts, lowest upshiftpoint from 3rd to 4th went up by almost 300 rpm. The car would not by itself or even let me upshift from 3rd to 4th until 2100 rpm. Normally it would do so happily at 1800-1900 rpm. Seems like a small change but 2000+ rpm is when the turbo has completely spooled up at max boost. Crossing it right before an upshift gives you a fuel efficiency penalty, especially in city driving.

[svsantosh]

Originally Posted by Hawk

Hello guys, I'm currently facing an issue with my XUV 700 AX7 L. My AdrenoX subscription expired back in March

Help me understand, I never grew beyond a dial & needle wala car. So will you car now show the speedo/critical parameters or none? Is it that only the Audio/ICE is dead?

Originally Posted by FlyboyQP

...No warning, but SA advised me to change

1) No warning - only the base plate is intact in the last picture. The friction material is worn down the last hair thickness. Some cars have a physical part/plate that screams out a screech that would make you stop the car and goto a mechanic asap. Wonder why Mahindra does not have it. EDIT EDIT -- I see a wire out of a pad. Did that sensor not do its work. It is usually thermal sensor, usually a RTD or a PT100 - it should give a preset thermal warning to the ECU if the pad is too thin. You may want to check if it is working or not.

2) SA Advised - very homely/sweet person.. lol Any other guy would have yelled out to you 'how did you drive the pad to the base plate'!

EDIT - some pics for your reference

It is called a squealer for a reason. I used to physically cut off the clip on new pads, I used to extract that extra 1000-2000kms out of the pads, I would not recomend that if you are not a petrol head.






Pain in the *** Electronic sensors (expensive)


CREDIT to all picture owners off Google search...

[sapien]

Originally Posted by sapien

I am facing a peculiar issue with our XUV700 2500 kms run Petrol AT variant.

Originally Posted by impala

I have been following thread pretty regularly and have not come across such a report. If you are able to reproduce, ASC should be able to diagnose and fix. I think there will be error codes which they can scan for.

Originally Posted by HillMan

You mentioned this happens after 100+ kms on highway.

Visited service center today, according to them there’s something not right with high pressure fuel pump, for now they have updated the ECU software and asked to observe the behavior, if the issue repeats then they’ll replace the fuel pump. Fingers crossed!

[superblover]

Originally Posted by sapien

There’s no sure shot way to reproduce but the 3 times this happened has always been on highways after driving for about 100+ kms.

This sounds like a fuel pump related issue. Kindly check if the fuel pump is getting overheated and is cutting off or struggling. This is most likely the explanation. Ask the service center to evaluate the fuel pump.

Edit: Didn't see the follow up post. Guess i was on the money. Hope that fixes things.

[alamodein]

Hello fellow XUV700 Owners.
From sometime, I am experiencing two strange issues with brake pedal in my AT Petrol. Are these normal?

1. Sometimes in morning or if I am trying to start my car after a gap of few days, the brake pedal becomes hard (kind of jammed). I have to press it with some force to get the green light on Start button. Then the brake pedal immediately becomes normal.

2. When in Neutral, if I press brake pedal, I get a low tuck sound, seems coming from underneath the Gear lever. I have only noticed it when in a quiet environment.

Thanks!

[true_sedan]

After a 6 month wait, I received my sequential turn indicators from boodmo. It was an exhausting weight as the possibility of vehicles on the rear not being able to see my turn indication weighed heavily on my mind. I used to glance at the rear view mirror to make sure the guy behind me saw the turn signal and was taking evasive action. It was that bad.
My XUV had done 15,000 kilometres by then and I did not want to wait another 5000 before 20k service to get it installed. So, got into action and decided on a DIY.

Before starting disconnect the battery negative. It is not necessary to do so, but better to be safe. It can easily be done with a size 10 hex socket.

1) Start by removing the small tail panel on both sides. Pull the panel down and it should come off easily.


2) Locate this screw behind the panel and unscrew it. This screw holds the larger tail panel in place.


3) After doing the above steps on both sides, you can now proceed with removing the larger tail panel. The larger tail panel has plenty of lock tabs and I would suggest removing it in this precise order:


4) The tail panel removed and carefully kept aside.


5) The lock nut that holds the tail light in place can now be accessed. It can easily be removed with the same size 10 hex socket that was used to disconnect the battery negative.


6) Post removal of the nut, the tail light can be removed. A standard connector connects to the tail light and can gently be pried out.

7) A side by side of the sequential and the non-sequential tail lights. Absolutely no physical difference between the two. The non-sequential one even has the sequential light in place but it lacks the computer chip inside that controls it.


8) The only tell tale difference between the two is the wires coming out of the light. The sequential light has 5 whereas the other has only 3.


9) Finally connect the new lights, put all the panels back and re-connect the battery.

Sequential tail lights in action:

https://youtu.be/Krw7nc9kaU0

The entire process took about 30 minutes. And seeing the lights in action at last gave a big relief. Now, no more worries about the visibility of the rear turn signal.

Ordering from boodmo is a hit or a miss. Estimated delivery is within 14 days. But the RH tail light took 2 months and the LH took 6 months.
Links:
1) Tail section RH: https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-tail...e_rh-56911888/
2) Tail section LH: https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-tail...e_lh-56911889/

I'm waiting for the body section of the tail lights to be delivered to complete the sequence.

Cheers!

[rahuljain1212]

Originally Posted by naru80

If all three are in budget, get the newest, highest variant possible. You won't regret it. If a 2 kmpl delta in mileage matters, best to avoid petrol.

Update:
The delivery of the new XUV 700 (Diesel), AT AX7, is lined up for tomorrow. Thanks once again to the forum members, especially @naru80 and @oxyzen, for your advice which certainly gave me the inputs to take the final decision!

Now, I am preparing for the PDI and accessories. I have looked up somewhere on this forum for the PDI checklist and downloaded it.

Coming to PPF, I heard/read somewhere that the paint quality of XUV is very good, and we need not go for PPF at all. Can anybody else share their thoughts on this, or would you strongly recommend going for PPF. If not PPF, would ceramic or teffllon coating suffice? I am leaning towards no PPF.

Is the spare wheel in AX7 the same dimensions as the 4 main wheels or lesser? If lesser, would it be recommended strongly to get that exchanged upfront ?

Coming to the accessories, I am planning to keep it simple, so I am not adding any chrome apart from what is part of the factory setting. And, having read earlier posts, going with the following accessories, with some questions for your inputs

1) Side foot stepper. I think this is mandatory and wonder why this is not fitted as a default factory offering

2) Rear bumper guard - Someone had mentioned that this should be avoided. Anyone in the forum who had skipped this but regretted or added up later?

3) Floor mats: I dont know the difference between 7d & 3d mats, but somewhere in this forum it was mentioned that the 7d mats from mahindra are of poor quality. On looking up, 7d mats seem to be the black cloth mats with white threaded checks. They look an eyesore to me. I would look for sturdy floormats. Any suggestions pls.

4) Scuff plates - Illuminated? (Vehicle color is midnight black, if that changes the response)

5) Tailgate Scuff protector (This also I think should be fitted as a default factory offering)

6) Mud flaps

7) Screen protector

Any other accessory that you think is strongly recommended and utilitarian, please suggest. Otherwise, I will close with above list.

Finally, I'm thinking of buying most of the accessories after-market. Would the after-market foot stepper be as sturdy as the company one? Please advise. Any additional experience sharing is whole-heartedly solicited. Please share.

Thank you so much!

[CEF_Beasts]

Mahindra rolls the 200,000th XUV7OO off its assembly line in under 3 years.



2 New Colours have been introduced: Burnt Sienna and Deep Forest.





https://www.instagram.com/p/C8tzoV4t...M0ZGJjZG9mNHpx

[sunilsoft]

Originally Posted by rahuljain1212

Update:
The delivery of the new XUV 700 (Diesel), AT AX7, is lined up for tomorrow.
Now, I am preparing for the PDI and accessories. I have looked up somewhere on this forum for the PDI checklist and downloaded it.

Thank you so much!

Congratulations for the new XUV 700. My 2 cents on your questions asked.
1. PPF - While the paint quality of the XUV 700 is quite good, PPF can provide additional protection, especially against stone chips and minor abrasions. If you drive frequently on highways or in areas with lots of debris, PPF can be a worthwhile investment despite its higher cost (which can range from ₹50,000 to ₹1,00,000 depending on the quality and coverage). However, if you mostly drive in urban areas, ceramic coating might suffice. Ceramic coating, typically costing between ₹20,000 to ₹40,000, offers excellent protection against UV rays.
2.The spare wheel in the AX7 is not the same size as the four main wheels. it is a space saver. I would recommend you to upgrade the spare to a full-size tyre and steel rim or alloy wheel to ensure consistent performance in case you need to use it.
3. Side Foot Stepper: I agree that this is a useful accessory, especially for easier ingress and egress and is a boon if you have elders in your family. IMO it is worth spending extra for the Mahindra one as it doesn't affect the ground clearance much.
4. Rear Bumper Guard: Rather than going for Rear bumper guard go for the abs add on kit from a company like M-Tek(No Affiliation)https://dolphinaccessories.com/produ...dy-kit-mk-5404
5. Floor Mats: Rather than 7d Mats go for GFX Life Long mats. I have using them for 2 years now and these are extremely durable. The fit and finish is also better than the 7d ones.
Rest all accessories are according to your taste. Please do install the screen protector.

[bbv]

Originally Posted by texens

13th June: Today the dealer told me that the vehicle is in transit and will reach tomorrow. I asked him to share the VIN number and he shared the VIN number with me. I used VIN decoder, and found that the vehicle is April 2024 manufactured.

@texens, I am in similar situation, the dealer initially told that an order for the car will have to be placed with Mahindra factory and it will take some time for it to manufacture and come, but within 3 days called up to tell that the vehicle is allotted and is in-transit. I checked the VIN (Chassis no.) to find that it is manufactured in April. Did you get any answers to your questions?

In my case, it is a white colour DSL ZX7L AT. I am just wondering, why would a car manufactured in April will still not be sold or is it rejected by few others and allocated to me now. Just few anxious thoughts

Originally Posted by rahuljain1212

Now, I am preparing for the PDI and accessories. I have looked up somewhere on this forum for the PDI checklist and downloaded it.

While there is a generic PDI checklist, I came across another one (courtesy @abirnale), attached to this post (at the bottom).

Coming to PPF, I heard/read somewhere that the paint quality of XUV is very good, and we need not go for PPF at all. Can anybody else share their thoughts on this, or would you strongly recommend going for PPF. If not PPF, would ceramic or teffllon coating suffice? I am leaning towards no PPF.

I am in the same boat as I have booked AX7L DAT and decided to not spend on PPF, as I think the debri etc. won't be that big a deal in a city environment (i.e. with low speed driving) and instead was thinking earlier for a bug deflector that should ideally deflect such small particles too. But, then the dealer told that they don't sell (even the Mahindra genuine one) as it tends to accumulate dust and if in case it is removed later on, it leaves a patch. So, not sure about it right now.

Coming to the accessories, I am planning to keep it simple, so I am not adding any chrome apart from what is part of the factory setting. And, having read earlier posts, going with the following accessories

I am planning for exactly same set of accessories except rear bumper guard. The reason being that it may compromise the safety aspect as it is attached to the chassis, which could bypass the impact directly to chassis. Also, I see that it reduces the departure angle of the car. Then I thought, why bother so much about the safety, when every other car except these big ones are being run on road without any such measure and it is not that all of them are having scratches (besides, I feel that people go more near to smaller cars). However, if anyone with an experience or insight for the need of it chimes-in, it will be helpful.

Side foot step: An accessory guy told me that it has nothing to do with the ground clearance. He had a point when he mentioned that there are points at the bottom of every car to place jacks and these are always the lowest points usually. I have not verified this for the XUV 700, but I know this to be true for my current car. The side step would not go below these, so it shouldn't make any difference. The guy also told that usually the manufacturer or the quality is same for the after-market ones too, but you get Mahindra sticker only on the ones available with dealers.

Floor mats: You may have seen already but this post (Mahindra XUV700 Review) (and few posts after it) talks about it. I have not yet decided and would like to have another look at possible choices before deciding.

Scuff plates: I decided to go for normal ones (vehicle colour is white) instead of illuminated ones, but that's because I personally don't like such illuminations, don't miss the ambient light also for that reason. But, in the end that's personal choice. One thing to note is that when I asked about it to an after-market shop, he told to not go for that as Mahindra might show some tantrums with warranty, as it requires an internal wired connection. However, I am not sure, how true is that as why would they bother who did it, if they also offer the same set.

In addition to these, I may get magnetic sun-shades.

[for_cars1]

Originally Posted by alamodein

....
1. Sometimes in morning or if I am trying to start my car after a gap of few days, the brake pedal becomes hard (kind of jammed). I have to press it with some force ..

A generic answer related to all booster assisted brakes.

Hard brake pedal implies loss of vacuum in the booster. The brake pedal softens when the engine comes to life and vacuum gets built in the booster.
Alternatively, pump the brakes a few times after turning off the engine and the vacuum will be lost as expected and the pedal gets hard to press.

Loss of vacuum can happen when the vehicle is unused for a longer period or if the booster is faulty (unable to maintain needed vacuum).

I had a scary heart in mouth experience in my previous vehicle when the booster malfunctioned and the brake pedal got stone hard when I appled brakes. Had to literally stand on the brakes. These can malfunction when the vehicle gets old typically, but hearing all these issues in relatively newer vehicles is concerning.