[manishalive]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

What do you ask for at a hardware store and what did you mean by "it was a tight fit inside the T"?

If someone has done this in the manner the drawing illustrates and more in line with what FM ilangop has further described, are there photos of someone who has done this on their Fiat 1100's and later models?

Tight fit inside the "T" means - if I am correct, he used a brass ferrule and inserted in the T opening to reduce the orifice. Standard would be all three opening be same size.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by ilangop

One doubt. Should both T-joints have the 0.8mm orifice or just T1?
Thank you.
-Ilango

Both T will have the 0.8mm orifice

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

What do you ask for at a hardware store and what did you mean by "it was a tight fit inside the T"?

By a tight fit, I meant that after fitting the brass orifice on the vertical outlet of T, there should not be any clearance for the fuel to seep.

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Both T will have the 0.8mm orifice

I guess the orifice is actually a #80 petrol jet used in many 2 & 3 wheeler carburetors. If not, please mention the exact application from where it is lifted from.

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

What do you ask for at a hardware store and what did you mean by "it was a tight fit inside the T"?

If someone has done this in the manner the drawing illustrates and more in line with what FM ilangop has further described, are there photos of someone who has done this on their Fiat 1100's and later models?

The T should be usable with a 6 or 7 mm ID rubber hose. I am not sure if the LPG hose T joints available in vessel shops are of this size. Probably you need something a notch smaller than this. I just acquired a PP which is in TN. I will be doing this mod eventually, when I get the luxury to enjoy a long vacation with my parents.
-Ilango

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by ilangop

I guess the orifice is actually a #80 petrol jet used in many 2 & 3 wheeler carburetors. If not, please mention the exact application from where it is lifted from.

-Ilango

You are right Ilango. I remember now that it is indeed a petrol jet. Sorry for the LPG confusion. I remember checking it with a LPG burner cleaner pin which has the same diameter of 0.8mm therefore the confusion.

[ilangop]

We have seen many of our folks grabbing a CDI distributor from a Contessa and modifying the same to adapt on the PP engine. From the electrical perspective this modifications solves the problem of inspecting the point and timing once in a while and also gives a better cold start capability. However, the most critical part of the distributor assembly being the centrifugal weights that governs the engine rpm based ignition advance and the displacement of the diaphragm actuator have been tuned for the 1.8 Isuzu engine. And hence the ignition timing fails to match the entire spectrum of speed and load on the PP engine. Hence it is always right to go with the PP distributor as the base for this modification.

After extensive surfing about the advantages of a GM HEI ignition, I took the plunge and ordered a sensor and the igniter module from www.Aliexpress.com. Indian PP used the Lucas-TVS 25-D4 model distributor, which coincidentally same as the ones used in Morris (but rotates in the opposite direction). The sensor is a simple pickup coil which replaces the point and condenser. The sensor kit is well designed to snugly fit inside the 25D4 distributor cap. The kit also comprises a grommet that seals the semicircular slot for passing the wires from sensor. The magnetic rotor slides over the point cam, as seen in the picture. Took some time to open the distributor and cleanup all the excessive grease around the weights (Remember Mr.B D mentioning that there is only very little oil required to lubricate the weights).

The HEI igniter module is a 4 wire module and needs a heat sink while installation in the vehicle. The wiring diagram has also been attached here (Image Source - https://www.google.co.in/url?sa=i&rc...87218947889255)

. Yet to install it in a car and evaluate its performance. Will post the results soon. With some minor modification to the base plate this system could be installed in a 118NE also.

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by ilangop

We have seen many of our folks grabbing a CDI distributor from a Contessa and modifying the same to adapt on the PP engine. From the electrical perspective this modifications solves the problem of inspecting the point and timing once in a while and also gives a better cold start capability. However, the most critical part of the distributor assembly being the centrifugal weights that governs the engine rpm based ignition advance and the displacement of the diaphragm actuator have been tuned for the 1.8 Isuzu engine. And hence the ignition timing fails to match the entire spectrum of speed and load on the PP engine. Hence it is always right to go with the PP distributor as the base for this modification.
.

Fantastic Ilango Bhai

I was waiting for this one! Thanks a million.

Goutham

[ilangop]

Dear all,
Apparently the stealth mode ignition system works fine. Starting is quick and spark strength is better than the point and condenser. I thing I learnt is that there is no dwell control in the stealth mode ignition system from Accuspark.
And the black box shown in my previous post is an ignitor by itself. So, I just need one of the 2 systems for converting a point system to electronic.

The Accuspark kit replaces the points and hence it is advisable to always keep the old point and condenser or a spare electronic kit in the glove box. Because we don't want to get stranded in case the electronic kit fails.

On the other hand, the GM 4 pin HEI kit could be made to work with points also. Hence with a small DIY circuitry the HEI unit could be wired with a switch. In case the HEI unit fails, we can continue our journey with the point system by just toggling a switch.

-Ilango

[ariesonu]

Will appreciate proper LINKS to the required parts on ALI EXPRESS as there are so many ignition conversion kits that it is confusing.
For all interested, I suggest that we can import in BULK and save on logistics costs.

Regards-Sonu

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by ariesonu

Will appreciate proper LINKS to the required parts on ALI EXPRESS as there are so many ignition conversion kits that it is confusing.
For all interested, I suggest that we can import in BULK and save on logistics costs.

Regards-Sonu

For Padmini Lucas distributor and Ambassador with BMC petrol Engine

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-...e-3485297a83c7

For 118NE and Maruti Zen / Esteem / 1000

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini...e-3485297a83c7

Fitting Guide
http://www.accuspark.co.uk/fitting_guide.html

A word of warning. Out of enthusiasm Padmini owners, do not buy the entire distributor that says Lucas 25D4. They are will suit a BMC petrol engine used in HM Ambassador. The rotation direction of distributor rotor are on opposite sides in PP and Amby engines.

Disclaimer: By no means I am affiliated to the seller or Aliexpress.com nor get any economic benefits from them. Any purchase, installation and usage shall be at your own risk.

-Ilango

[schakravarthy]

Hadn't seen this type of dial.

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear all - copying and pasting my efforts of last 4 days of typing at home. I hope it is useful. Here goes.

[b]Conversion of Premier Padmini engine to run on a Mikuni carburetor:
...
The normal way - or the "easy" route is to fabricate a so-called "adapter" having the Solex as well as Mikuni mounting faces. I have seen examples of adapters fabricated from a half-inch thick steel flat to sand casting around 50 mm high.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Dear all,
Many thanks to the Fiat Guru for all his valuable inputs in my endeavour towards developing an adaptor for installing a Mikuni carburetor in a Premier Padmini.

For those who were not aware of, I have acquired a Premier Padmini (belonged to my maternal uncle and then bought by a friend of mine, now with us again). As my friend (Ashok) had left for abroad for higher studies he just gave the Padmini back to me once and for all. So, in the month of February one fine morning we (I and my wife Priya) boarded a train from Trichy to Madurai to pick up the car. Thanks to Ashok's mom for keeping all documents ready and had got a general service & check up done by a mechanic. I was all excited about driving the car back home. Had breakfast and we were about to leave. Just by intuition I had opened to check the oil & water levels. A cracked radiator hose grabbed my attention. Though it was not big, I could see drops of water dripping. Still I dared to make the move. Filled it water, carried a can of water and started our journey. Maintained only 50kmph all though and reached home without a hiccup.

The radiator hose, leaking pushrod cover, black engine oil & filter, etc. needed immediate replacement. Luckily parts were available in Trichy itself. Now, the bigger problem was the Solex carburetor itself. It was not able to keep the engine at idle. Either engines revvs fast or dies. The wornout butterfly was to be blamed. Hence the Mikuni conversion got added up to the To-Do list.

Fast-Forward, End March. I had to go to Trichy for a week at attend to a medical emergency for my mom. By God's grace she was back home after a surgery the second day we reached. Hence my wife was more occupied in taking care of her. The insect inside my brain wouldn't let me sit idle. Though I hadn't planned to take up the Mikuni conversion this time, I thought I would rather do the preparatory work and keep the car ready for carburetor swap.

Referred to late Mr.B.D's posts and made myself to take up the plunge.
1. Equip the tank with a fuel return line.
Since bringing down the fuel tank and working on it would require leaving the car at a garage, I had devised a different strategy for the return line. A slot was cut on the spare wheel well to gain access to the fuel suction pipe installed in a triangular flange. Bought a full roll of copper tube used in LPG kit installation. Used a small portion of it to make the return pipe. An extra hole was drilled in the flange and the new pipe was brazed. The round hole in the tank had to be widened to accommodate both the pipes. An L - plate with welded nuts was used to stitch the wheel well floor back in position.






2. Cable operated Accelerator pedal
My search for an S1 or 137D turned futile. Picked up a M800 pedal assembly for Rs67/- and welded an "L" to it to offset the cable mounting pin to the right side of the firewall support. The cable entry is very much at the same place as in the S1. The pedal pad has been removed and welded with an eye so that the Padmini pedal could be connected to it with the L-pin. Sorry, dont have the picture of this part at the moment. Satisfied with the results, I had packed up from Trichy and back at Pune. The search for a good carburetor is now "ON".


That's all for now. Rest during my next visit in the end of this month.

All thanks to a welder in our locality. An enthusiastic and genuine guy.

[umkomaas1221]

Hello

Please can someone send me the equivalent VANDERVELL equivalent FIAT 1100D Engine (1962 to 1966) bearings for the following part numbers:

1) MAIN bearings: part number M3258
2) BIG END/conrod bearings: part number B4300

I think the above part numbers are GLACIER.

Has someone got an old catalogue that they see the part numbers? The VANDERVELL engine part numbers normally start with "VP" as reference letters.

Thank you
Kind Regards
Luigino

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by umkomaas1221

Hello

Please can someone send me the equivalent VANDERVELL equivalent FIAT 1100D Engine (1962 to 1966) bearings for the following part numbers:

1) MAIN bearings: part number M3258
2) BIG END/conrod bearings: part number B4300

I think the above part numbers are GLACIER.

Has someone got an old catalogue that they see the part numbers? The VANDERVELL engine part numbers normally start with "VP" as reference letters.

Thank you
Kind Regards
Luigino

Will look around in Bangalore, but my gut feel is someone from Mumbai can be more successful.

Originally Posted by ilangop

The search for a good carburetor is now "ON".

Dear Ilango, Did you get a mikuni carb? We look forward to your posts.

My car underwent a front suspension overhaul, including change of wheel bearings. Steering is a bit tight now and I am hoping it will settle down as I take the car out more often.

[umkomaas1221]

Originally Posted by umkomaas1221

Hello

Please can someone send me the equivalent VANDERVELL equivalent FIAT 1100D Engine (1962 to 1966) bearings for the following part numbers:

1) MAIN bearings: part number M3258
2) BIG END/conrod bearings: part number B4300

I think the above part numbers are GLACIER.

Has someone got an old catalogue that they see the part numbers? The VANDERVELL engine part numbers normally start with "VP" as reference letters.

Thank you
Kind Regards
Luigino

I managed to search for numbers, and got the following:

VP426 = Main bearings
VP427 = Conrod bearings

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by autocrat

Dear Ilango, Did you get a mikuni carb? We look forward to your posts.

My car underwent a front suspension overhaul, including change of wheel bearings. Steering is a bit tight now and I am hoping it will settle down as I take the car out more often.

Hi Gowtham,
Yes, bought a Mikuni carb. Did thorough cleaning and replaced gaskets. Running the same in my 118NE. This carb will be eventually transplanted into the PP in the month of June, while I am in TN.

Just grease the ball joint once again after 300-500 kms. It should be free by then.
-Ilango