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Old 1st March 2022, 00:49   #2056
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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Originally Posted by Thumping Soul View Post
There are a few changes to the plan, based on the feedback I got from HVK. Here's the updated itinerary:
Attachment 2277450

Another aspect I'm worried about is the heat waves through major part of Central India, Delhi to Jammu and then while returning through Western India, that's also going to be pretty hot. We are just wondering if it would be better to defer the plan to mid-July by when the monsoons would hit. But this would also mean kids missing school when the sessions are in full swing. So, kind of stuck. But would really appreciate feedback around how bad the heat wave would be around these regions in June. Would it be feasible to do day-long drives in that kind of heat.



Well, with kids along, we are not planning to stay in any tent accomodation. Trying to find out if there are any proper shelters / hotels close to Pangong. If not, we would prefer to go back to Leh for a proper hotel.
Thanks for your sharing your updated plan. I dont think driving back during summers is a big concern as long as car is in good shape. Ofcourse you cannot do tourist stop overs on the way back due to the heat. July is not much better if you ask me since it gets muggy weather and worse for spoilt Bangaloreans and schools also. Stick to current target of May is my suggestion, you will also avoid the north school holiday season to some extent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by karthikd21 View Post
Hey guys, I am planning to drive to Ladhak from Bangalore. Trip is planned to start from Bangalore on 13th May. I will be driving in my Gurkha with my wife and 2 kids. I definitely look forward to having a 2nd team joining serving as back up for each other. Anyone willing to join?
My plan is very fluid right now but mostly will be 1st half of May. Lot of variables right now. Only the intent to go is final and wife and daughter are on board
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Old 5th March 2022, 00:37   #2057
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Hi Everyone, God willing I am planning to do Delhi - Kashmir - Leh - Manali - Delhi (2 weeks) in late May or early June on my D400. Do you suggest making arrangements for jerrycans? My bike has no pannier racks whatsoever, I like my bike looking neat so never got them installed. I usually carry my trusted rucksack and it worked well in Spiti and chandertaal.

I am looking to change tyres as well, OE MRF are over now ( went really well). I wanted Road 5 but heard they are soft for ladakh like terrain, now considering Pirelli Rally STR. Any experience of Pirelli or road 5 on such terrains? Any other tyre to consider?

Also, anyone knows if night stays are open in Hanle for tourists? Last time I checked I read that night stays are not allowed for tourists anymore.
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Old 5th March 2022, 13:24   #2058
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

FOlks, based on reading online blogs what I figured is that Srinagar-Leh road usually opens early May and Manali-Leh is more towards end of May. Is that accurate? I will need to adjust my plans accordingly since I have a FWD XUV500 and cant get too adventurous if there lot of snow on the roads early may.
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Old 5th March 2022, 18:19   #2059
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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Originally Posted by Sahil00090 View Post
Hi Everyone, God willing I am planning to do Delhi - Kashmir - Leh - Manali - Delhi (2 weeks) in late May or early June on my D400. Do you suggest making arrangements for jerrycans? My bike has no pannier racks whatsoever, I like my bike looking neat so never got them installed. I usually carry my trusted rucksack and it worked well in Spiti and chandertaal.

I am looking to change tyres as well, OE MRF are over now ( went really well). I wanted Road 5 but heard they are soft for ladakh like terrain, now considering Pirelli Rally STR. Any experience of Pirelli or road 5 on such terrains? Any other tyre to consider?

Also, anyone knows if night stays are open in Hanle for tourists? Last time I checked I read that night stays are not allowed for tourists anymore.
Hi Sahil, a plastic jerrycan tied to saree guard secured with bungee cords or rope would suffice if you have space available.
I visited Hanle in first week of September 2021. Night stays were open. Needed DC office permission stamped on the permit. Details should be available when you are in Leh.
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Old 8th March 2022, 00:49   #2060
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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Originally Posted by karthikd21 View Post
Hey guys, I am planning to drive to Ladhak from Bangalore. Trip is planned to start from Bangalore on 13th May. I will be driving in my Gurkha with my wife and 2 kids. I definitely look forward to having a 2nd team joining serving as back up for each other. Anyone willing to join?
Hi, my dates are not confirmed yet. Thinking of doing it in mid-Jun. Again, I'm planning to travel through Zanskar valley, starting from Darcha - Shinku La - Padum - Lingshed - Singey La - lamayuru, once in/around Leh, would love to visit Hanle-UmlingLa-Tso moriri on my return. Come back to lower himalayas to find a decent place where I can work remotely for couple of weeks before heading back to Bangalore.
My dates are still not fixed. Wife and I will be travelling in all new Thar. Zanskar experts tells me that Jun 2nd half is something I can pick, not earlier than that. However, if it becomes mid-may, I shall keep in touch. Good luck.
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Old 8th March 2022, 18:15   #2061
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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Originally Posted by supertinu View Post
FOlks, based on reading online blogs what I figured is that Srinagar-Leh road usually opens early May and Manali-Leh is more towards end of May. Is that accurate? I will need to adjust my plans accordingly since I have a FWD XUV500 and cant get too adventurous if there lot of snow on the roads early may.
The road cleaning work of Manali Leh is already started. BRO is very positive to open it in the last week of April. Srinagar Leh will start functioning in the last week of March.

Last edited by SJM1214 : 8th March 2022 at 18:20.
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Old 8th March 2022, 19:49   #2062
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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Originally Posted by SJM1214 View Post
The road cleaning work of Manali Leh is already started. BRO is very positive to open it in the last week of April. Srinagar Leh will start functioning in the last week of March.

To restore the strategically important Manali-Leh highway till the end of March, the Border Roads Organisation has engaged its workforce and machinery to clear snow from Darcha towards Leh in Lahaul and Spiti.

https://www.tribuneindia.com/news/hi...f-march-375656
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Old 11th March 2022, 12:53   #2063
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Folks, I have a few questions about travel around Leh

1. Would it make sense to come back to Leh from Hunder and then goto Pangong after night stay at Leh? How are the road conditions to go directly from HUnder to Pangong? I am not short on time and comfort for family is higher priority

2. Is Leh - Pangon - Leh doable in 1 day, or better to stay some place like Tangtse near Pangong on the way back?

3. Whats the best way to include Tso Moriri on way back from Leh to Manali? which places have decent accommodation? else I will skip Tso Moriri and goto Manali directly
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Old 11th March 2022, 13:43   #2064
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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Originally Posted by supertinu View Post
Folks, I have a few questions about travel around Leh

1. Would it make sense to come back to Leh from Hunder and then goto Pangong after night stay at Leh? How are the road conditions to go directly from HUnder to Pangong? I am not short on time and comfort for family is higher priority

2. Is Leh - Pangon - Leh doable in 1 day, or better to stay some place like Tangtse near Pangong on the way back?

3. Whats the best way to include Tso Moriri on way back from Leh to Manali? which places have decent accommodation? else I will skip Tso Moriri and goto Manali directly
1 - Not really. The route to Pangong from Nubra is fine and doable. Usually tourists reliant on taxis do that coming back to Leh. But if you hire one for multiple days you can go directly.

2 - Some people do that as they only want to be there for sunset and during cold weather come back to Leh same day. But i dont think you will enjoy it and the day trip. If you do above (1) simply stay at Spangmik (Pangong).

3 - The roads to Tso Moriri are bad. Id avoid it. Better visit Hanle from Leh which has great roads. (I was in Ladakh Sep end last year and I doubt roads have changed much since then because of winter).
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Old 11th March 2022, 14:19   #2065
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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1 - Not really. The route to Pangong from Nubra is fine and doable. Usually tourists reliant on taxis do that coming back to Leh. But if you hire one for multiple days you can go directly.

2 - Some people do that as they only want to be there for sunset and during cold weather come back to Leh same day. But i dont think you will enjoy it and the day trip. If you do above (1) simply stay at Spangmik (Pangong).

3 - The roads to Tso Moriri are bad. Id avoid it. Better visit Hanle from Leh which has great roads. (I was in Ladakh Sep end last year and I doubt roads have changed much since then because of winter).
Thanks Anand. I am planning on a self drive. I can surely drive from Hunder to Pangong as long road is doable with a front WD XUV500. How are stay options in Spangmik? Since i am with my wife and daughter, dont want to do tent stay in cold weather. THis will be mid may time frame.

Good point on Tso Moriri. Le me check on Hanle.
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Old 13th March 2022, 23:44   #2066
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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Originally Posted by karthikd21 View Post
Hey guys, I am planning to drive to Ladhak from Bangalore. Trip is planned to start from Bangalore on 13th May. I will be driving in my Gurkha with my wife and 2 kids. I definitely look forward to having a 2nd team joining serving as back up for each other. Anyone willing to join?
My travel dates are almost matching, albeit off by about a week. Let's connect offline. Can plan together.

Regards
Saurav
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Old 14th March 2022, 00:06   #2067
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

I’m planning a trip to Ladakh that starts from March 26. Will drive my 2WD Fortuner from Kolkata.

Do you think the Srinagar Leh highway will open by then? Will it be unsafe? Suggestions and insights welcome
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Old 14th March 2022, 11:13   #2068
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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Originally Posted by supertinu View Post
Thanks Anand. I am planning on a self drive. I can surely drive from Hunder to Pangong as long road is doable with a front WD XUV500. How are stay options in Spangmik? Since i am with my wife and daughter, dont want to do tent stay in cold weather. THis will be mid may time frame.

Good point on Tso Moriri. Le me check on Hanle.
Hunder/Diskit to Pangong road goes along the Shyok river. Travelling through this road is a good choice rather going back to Leh. This road used to be alittle adventurous side but in the recent years it has improved is what I heard. There are many options to stay before you reach Pangong, Spangmik is one, if you take the route via Tangste, there is a very good place to stay for night. Following day you can reach Pangong tso with a quick drive.
If you have enough time and want to cover other places, I'd suggest driving to Hanle from Pangogn tso, this is a 47km route along the lake and its one of the beautiful ones you ever drive, make sure you check with DC office in case you are going to require permit for Chushul. It'd be Hunder (assuming you'd have covered Turtuk and Panamik in north) > Tangtse/Spangmik (night stay)> Pangogn Tso > Merak/Man (night stay possible, but you can continue to drive, depends on climate and how many hours you drive) > Chushul > Hanle (night stay at Padma guest house) > Umling la is an option only if you have got the permit > Tso Moriri (night stay) > decide to go directly towards Manali from here, if you are done with Leh and surrounding places.
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Old 14th March 2022, 11:48   #2069
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by supertinu View Post
Folks, I have a few questions about travel around Leh

1. Would it make sense to come back to Leh from Hunder and then goto Pangong after night stay at Leh? How are the road conditions to go directly from HUnder to Pangong? I am not short on time and comfort for family is higher priority

2. Is Leh - Pangon - Leh doable in 1 day, or better to stay some place like Tangtse near Pangong on the way back?

3. Whats the best way to include Tso Moriri on way back from Leh to Manali? which places have decent accommodation? else I will skip Tso Moriri and goto Manali directly
You got the option of going via the Agham Shyok road, like other helpful members have pointed out. There is also another alternative via Wari La, but it is slightly longer and tends to be closed more than the other roads for some other reason. At least I heard about it being closed in the previous trips. The Agham Shyok road is quite scenic and does not have much traffic on it as compared to the typical Khardungla road. Do keep speaking to the local cab drivers there on the route status as things change in Ladakh on short notice.

I would recommend to not miss Tso Moriri if you are not short on time. That lake aces Pangong Tso for me. You can get accommodation in the Tso Moriri village.

The route suggested by Ketan is good and should serve well if you just check for the permissions when in Leh.
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Old 14th March 2022, 12:13   #2070
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Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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If you have enough time and want to cover other places, I'd suggest driving to Hanle from Pangogn tso, this is a 47km route along the lake and its one of the beautiful ones you ever drive, make sure you check with DC office in case you are going to require permit for Chushul. It'd be Hunder (assuming you'd have covered Turtuk and Panamik in north) > Tangtse/Spangmik (night stay)> Pangogn Tso > Merak/Man (night stay possible, but you can continue to drive, depends on climate and how many hours you drive) > Chushul > Hanle (night stay at Padma guest house) > Umling la is an option only if you have got the permit > Tso Moriri (night stay) > decide to go directly towards Manali from here, if you are done with Leh and surrounding places.
Re: Pangong to Hanle - i would not suggest this at all unless you are feeling adventurous. I risked it even when i was using a patched tyre because it was us 3 guys but i wouldn't with my family. I took this route as while we were in Ladakh (end of Sep'21) they had started allowing Indian tourists to cross Chushul having been closed since start of the year. It's basically no roads from Merak. Also the lake only lasts till before Chushul. The best part of the lake is between Man and Merak so yea go till there as roads are good till just before Merak but don't go through this route to Hanle. It does save you a day (it did for us as i didn't want to go back to Leh) but its not worth it. Let alone if a tyre punctures or some other issue. It's deserted and i saw maybe a total of 3-4 cars/trucks the whole way, you can't drive any faster than 20-30 km/h. A lot of times you don't even know which is the official road and which is off-road because there simply isn't one. We had to turn back a couple of times as what we thought was the road looking at tyre tracks wasn't.

Similarly the road from Nyoma to Tsumdo to Tso Moriri to Tsumdo to Tso Kar to Leh-Manali Highway is equally bad and back breaking but if you insist on visiting it followed by Manali then you can try it. Tso Moriri is no doubt a beautiful lake.

Re: Permits - you don't need permit to cross Chushul anymore though there are 2-3 army checkposts where they take your details. For Hanle you do need to get stamped from Leh D.C. office but its takes less than 5 mins. The permit is checked at Loma checkpoint. Loma is the checkpoint to proceed to Hanle. Loma is after Nyoma if you are coming from Leh.

Definitely visit Hanle as the opposite to Merak - Chushul - Loma, the Leh - Loma road is pretty great and the drive from Loma to Hanle is probably the best of Ladakh.

Do check out my Ladakh travelogue (Almost a two-year wait for Ladakh | 16 day & 5740 km road-trip in a Skoda Kodiaq) of my Ladakh visit in Sep last year and it might help.

Last edited by AnandB : 14th March 2022 at 12:21.
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